OVER    THE    PLAINS 


—  AND- 


On  The  Mountains 


—  OR,- 


Kansas  and  Colorado 


Agriculturally,  Mineralogically, 


—  AND 


yESTHE  TIC  ALLY      DESCRIBED. 


By    J.     H.    TICE 


FOR    SALE    BY 

THE  ST.  LOUIS  BOOK  AND  NEWS  COMPANY,  ST.  LOUIS, 

The  Western  News  Company,  Chicago, 

AMERICAN    NEWS    COMPANY,    NEW    YORK. 


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307  Noirni   ToiiRTH  Street, 

ST.  LOUIS. 


PREFACE. 


This  volume  contains  the  result  of  pei*sonal  observations 
made  in  Kansas  and  Colorado  in  the  Summer  of  1871.  By 
a  resolution  adopted  by  the  Missouri  State  Board  of  Agri- 
culture, it  was  determiincd  in  a  body  and  in  their  official 
capacity,  to  take  an  excursion  through  Kansas,  Colorado, 
Wyoming,  and  if  found  practicable,  to  Utah.  The  object 
was  to  gain  information  by  personal  observation,  of  the 
natural  I'esources  and  agricultural  capabilities  of  the  great 
Plains  and  of  the  mountain  territories,  to  ascertain  the 
state  of  the  branches  of  industry  to  which  they  were  adapt- 
ed, the  character  of  the  soil  and  climate,  the  mode  of  cul- 
ture, and  the  probable  extent  to  which  they  would  be  de- 
pendent upon  other  sections  for  supplies  especially  agri- 
cultural products.  An  invitation  was  extended  to  the 
Kansas  Stale  Agricultural  Society,  to  Join  us  in  the  excur- 
sion, which  was  cordially  accepted.  To  the  liberality  of 
the  North  Missouri,  the  Kansas  Pacific,  the  Colorado  Cen- 
tral, the  Denver  Pacific  and  the  Boulder  Valley  railroads 
we  are  indebted  for  free  passes  in  going  and  returning  over 
their  roads;  and  for  Avhich  they  will  please  accept  the 
most  grateful  and  cordial  thanks  of  the  whole  party. 

During  the  excursion,  I  took  full  notes  of  everything 
that  fell  undei-  my  observation,  and  also  of  facts  elicited 
from  conversations  with  those  familiar  with  the  Mountains ; 
not  with  the  remotest  intention  however,  of  perpetrating 
the  infliction  of  a  book  upon  the  patient  public,  but  for  my 
own  gratification  and  satisfaction. 

Aft«r  my  return  home,  I  wrote  out  a  few  pages  of  the 
not«8  for  the  Sunday  number  of  one  of  oui"  leading  dailies. 


4  PREFACE. 

These  wore  so  favorably  roeeived,  and  excited  so  much 
interest,  as  to  draw  uikonnie  scores  of  letters  from  all  parts 
ot'  tin'  eountrv  where  these  sketches  found  their  Avay. 
Some  of  these  Avere  from  persons  familiar  with  the  scenes 
described,  thankinir  me  for  the  y-ratitication  the  readincc  of 
my  mites  atfonlod  them  in  reviving  the  recollections  of  the 
sulilime  and  irrand  scenerv  of  these  matchless  Mountains, 
and  of  enabling  them  mentally  to  renew  the  wild  enjoy- 
ments, excitements  and  pleasures  of  a  rude  mining  lite. 
Other  letters  were  from  parties  having  various  objects  in 
view;  some  from  those  desirous  of  seeking  new  homes; 
some  from  those  seeking  investments,  or  solicitous  of  en- 
gagini;  in  new  enterprizes,  and  others  from  invalids^ 
borne  down  by  disease,  anxious  to  know  if  a  cure,  or  an 
amelioration  of  their  infirmities  would  not  be  eifected  by 
a  sojourn  in  the  delightful  and  salubrious  climate  of  the 
Mountains.  All  these  wanted  full  and  definite  infoi-mation 
on  the  points  in  which  thc}^  felt  interested. 

The  number  of  these  letters,  and  the  intense  anxiety  the 
writers  expressed  for  aceumte  information,  first  suggested 
the  idea  of  writing  out  the  notes  in  full  and  publishing 
them  in  book  form. 

I  have  endeavored  to  meet  the  expectations  and  gratify 
the  desires  of  all  these  questioners,  as  far  as  my  observations 
extended.  Moreover,  I  have  endeavored  to  sup])Iy  a  want 
much  needed  by  pleasure  seekers,  by  making  known  the 
variety,  extent,  grandeur  and  sublimity  of  the  matchless 
scenery  of  these  gigantic  Mountains.  There  is  a  large  and 
increasing  class  who  have  the  means  and  leisure  to  spend 
the  hot  summer  months  in  fleeing  to  cooler  localities  for 
relaxation,  recreation  and  recuperation.  Many,  but  they 
are  not  lli<'  lovers  and  admirers  of  Nature,  go  to  the  sea- 
shore, or  some  fashionable  Avatcring  place,  Avhero  they  pass 
through  the  same  routine  of  inane  amusements  and  frivo- 
lous excitements  day  after  day  and  year  after  year;  and 
return  liome  Avithout  their  minds  enlarged  by  acquire*! 
knoAvledjre,   their   sentiments  refined,  their  taste  for  the 


PREFACE.  5 

grand  and  the  bciuitil'ul  quickened,  or  even  their  Itodics 
invigorated.  Yea,  worse  tlian  tliat,  jxtsitively  damaged 
jthysieally,  socially  and  morally,  by  being  irremediably 
inoculated  with  the  virus  of  the  frivolities,  follies  and  vices 
of  fashionable  life  ;  notonly  mind,  heart  and  taste  infected 
and  perverted,  but  Avasteful  and  expensive  liabits  con- 
tracted. These  "  like  Ephraim,  arc  joined  to  their  idols," 
and  must  be  let  alone.  But  there  are  those  who  are  not 
yet  di-awn  into  the  vortex  of  the  nuxelstrom  of  fashion. 
To  these  it  will  be  doing  a  good  office  and  a  grateful  ser- 
vice, to  direct  their  attention  to  the  untrodden  and  as  yet 
unlashionable  routes  of  pleasure  seekei'S  in  these  Avild, 
picturesque  and  indescribably  grand  and  lofty  Mountains, 
'  where  in  silence  and  solitude  the}'  can  hold  communion 
with  Xaturc  in  her  most  awful,  sublime,  majestic  and  im- 
posing forms;  and  whence  they  will  return  home  with 
their  thoughts  enlarged,  their  affections  ennobled,  their 
sentiments  elevated,  their  taste  refined  and  their  bodies  in- 
vigorated, moreover,  with  lighter  and  kinder  hearts  and 
heavier  purses.  Aye,  go  upon  the  mountains  as  3Ioses  did^ 
and  God  will  appear  nnto  you  and  converse  with  you  face 
to  face.  His  laws  and  commandments  there  written  on 
stones,  Avill  be  transcribed  and  engraven  on  your  hearts; 
and  you,  like  the  Hebrew  Lawgiver,  will  also  return  to 
your  friends  AVith  an  overflowing  heart  and  a  shining  face. 


OVER  THE  PLAINS  AND  ON  THE  MOUNTAINS. 


CHAPTER  I. 

On  tlu'  <'VC'nirii«:  f'^  t'lc  fift'i  of  Jiinc^  we  sot  out  on.  our 
journey  oil  hoard  of  tlie  cvonini;  Express  train  of  tlic 
Kortli  !>[issouri  Eailroa'l.  The  day  had  boon  intensely 
sultry,  and  a  hj^-eriiiii;  sky  in  the  West  indicated  the  ap- 
proach of  a  storm.  The  air  seeined  stagnant;  for  not  a 
breeze  was  stirring;  and  the  heat  was  sweltering  and  op- 
pressive. Criad  Avere  we,  when  the  train  commenced  mov- 
ing us  through  the  air,  relieving  us  from  the  smothering  ef- 
fects of  heat,  it  having  the  same  cooling  effect  as  a  wind 
would  have  of  a  velocity  of  twenty-five  miles  per  hour. 
We  were  therefijre  soon  quite  comfortable,  which  together 
with  the  novelty  of  our  situation,  starting  out  to  experi- 
ence a  new  sensation,  contributed  to  raise  onr  animal  spirits, 
and  we  became  as  cheerful  and  vivacious  a  crowd  as  ever 
had  cast  dull  care  aside;  and  had  set  out  to  test  how  much 
relish  and  enjoynient,  new  and  strange  scenes  M'ould  add 
to  ])leasure.  Clear  of  the  mephitic  city  air,  and  through 
the  bluffs,  we  were  soon  flying  through  the  beautiful 
Florissant  ('])ronounced  Florissaw)  Valley,  the  Arcadia  of 
Missouri.  At  dusk  we  came  to  a  halt  at  the  end  of  the 
bridg*' opposite  .St.  Charles,  wliicli  spans  the  muddy  and 
turbub'iit  Missouri  here.  A  moment  and  we  are  in  motion 
again,  but  sb>\\ly  and  cautiously  we  move  over  the  im- 
mense iron  structure;  already  a  new  sensation  forthecopi- 
pletion  f)f  t)»e  structure  had  only  been  celebrated  a  few  days 
previously.     Then  there  was  still  lingering  a  vague  feeling 


OVER  THE  PLAINS  AND  ON  THE    MOUNTAINS.  7 

of  insecurity  induced  by  the  croukings  of  ili-omonod  birdrf, 

who  like  Dickens' 

"  Thompson  with  a  P 
Think  the  world  is  going  to  the  Devil 
If  they  are  not  hallooing  Gee.  " 

This  feeling  of  want  of  safety  was  intensified  by  some 
brainless  would-be  wag,  having  the  morning  of  our  leaving 
perpetrated  the  miserable  pun,  "that  a  whole  train  of  the 
jS'orth  ^Missouri  Eailroad  had  gone  through  the  bridge;" 
which  for  a  while  had  found  credence  in  its  literal  sense. 

The  ebon  shade  of  night  soon  fell  upon  the  landscape 
and  closed  out  all  save  our  fiery  steed  and  his  luminous 
train.  The  sky  was  overcast,  and  from  the  west  the  dark 
storm  cloud  was  rolling  up  with  flash  on  flash  of  vivid 
liixhtnino;.  Soon  at  intervals  the  hoarse  rumblins;  of  the 
thunder  coming  neai'er  and  nearer  notified  us  that  we  were 
approaching  the  storm. 

I  had  gone  to  a  forward  car  to  chat  with  an  acquaintance, 
and  when  I  returned,  my  attention  was  arrested  while  on 
the  platform  by  a  most  singular  display  made  by  myriads 
of  fireflies,  (  Photynus  pyralis).  JMy  first  thought  was  that 
they  were  sparks  from  our  engine,  and  with  it  came  the 
thought  of  danger  to  the  train  from  being  set  on  fire  and 
burned  xip,  for  no  structure  of  wood  could  live  in  such  a 
shower  of  sparks  as  that.  But  I  soon  saw  that  they  were 
fireflies.  Sometimes  they  emitted  a  continuous  flash,  and 
then  after  a  little  intermission,  it  broke  out  again  like 
platoon  firing.  I  also  soon  observed  that  they  were  almost 
exclusively  confined  to  within  a  rod  or  so  to  the  railroad 
on  both  sides.  I  therefore  concluded  that  they  had 'gath- 
ered from  the  woods  on  the  young  herbage  along  the  sides 
of  the  railroad ;  ajid  being  alarmed  by  the  train,  had  taken 
wing.  Back  into  one  of  Pulman's  sleeping  cars,  I  was  soon 
stowed  away  in  one  of  its  ample  berths.  But  before  I  fell 
asleep  the  storm  had  set  in.  The  rain  was  pouring  down 
in  torrents,  and  the  wind  was  driving  it  splash,  splash 
against  windows  and  sides  of  the  car,  and  then  the  light- 


J<  OVER  THE  PL.\INS   AND  ON  THE  MOUNTAINS. 

ning's  glare,  and  the  peals  of  thunder  were  territie.  I  fell 
asleep  anil  woke  and  fell  asleep  again,  and  still  the  storm 
i-aged  on  and  beat  against  our  frail  shelter.  J^a}-  had 
dawned  ere  wc  ran  from  under  the  rain  cloud,  3'et  the  sky 
was  still  hlaek  and  overcast.  It  was  nine  o'clock  before 
the  blue  sky  appeared.  Day  overtook  us  at  Lexington  Junc- 
tion, where  the  branch  railroad  from  Lexington  to  St. 
Joseph  crosses.  The  country  here  generally  is  level  prairie, 
and  consequently  water  was  standing  e\  ery  wliere,  and  the^ 
corntields  looked  as  if  they  were  drowned  out.  The  creeks- 
were  booming  full  to  overflowing,  and  were  floating  down 
immense  quantities  of  driftwood,  which,  lodging  in  the  nar- 
row passages  between  the  abutments  of  the  bridges,  \va» 
threatening  danger  to  the  structures.  From  the  same  cause 
the  culverts  were  choked  up  and  the  water  was  collecting 
in  lakes  on  the  north  side  of  the  road.  Everj^where  the 
indications  were  of  an  immense  rainfall;  the  broken  limbs 
of  trees  indicated  a  severe  wnnd  storm  also.  The  soil  here 
is  regarded  as  one  of  the  most  fertile  and  productive  in  the 
West,  being  intensely  black,  but  extremelj^  friable  and  mel- 
low. The  road  pusses  tip  along  the  north  bank  of  the  river, 
having  the  muddy  Missouri  surging  in  its  sandy  bed  on 
one  side,  and  a  most  beautiful  country  of  tine  farms  alter- 
nated with  dense  forests,  on  the  other.  Li  the  forests  I  could 
not  but  admire  the  varied  resthetic  forms  of  Nature,  and  ob- 
serve how  much  of  the  science  of  the  iicautiful  man  has 
yet  to  learn  from  her  teachings.  Here  Avas  the  Tecoma 
radicans  smothering  a  half  grown  tree,  or  reclothing  with 
verdure  the  tinink  of  a  dead  one,  and  adorning  both  with 
JtH  cluster  of  large  trumpet  shape  orange  flowei's.  There 
the  frost  grape,  Jltis  cordifoUa,  had  o1)tained  the  mastery 
over  a  well  grown  elm  or  hickory,  and  its  long  pendant 
vines  were  swaying  to  and  fro,  and  often  trailing  on  the 
ground.  Yonder  the  Americ-an  Ivy,  the  Ampe.lopsis  quinque 
folia  has  decked  the  trunk  of  some  large  elm,  sycamore  or 
oak,  with  unsurpassing  beauty,  making  it  a  green  column 
supporting  an  immense  "coronal  of  green  leaves." 


OVER  THE  PLAINS   AND  ON  THE  MOUNTAINS.  9> 

AVe  soon  arrived  opposite  Kansas  City  and  reerosscd  the*. 
Missouri  to  the  south  side  on  the  raili'oad  bridge.  Here 
we  were  joined  by  two  portions  of  our  party,  one  who  had 
preceded  us,  and  the  other  who  came  up  on  the  Missouri 
Pacific  Eailroad  on  the  south  side  of  the  river.  Kansas 
City  chiims  40,000  inhabitants  and  has  them  too,  but  ap- 
I^ears  only  a  small  village,  being  mostly  hid  by  the  higlx 
and  immense  bluffs,  on  which  and  amongst  which,  it  is. 
built.  It  is  a  natural  question  to  ask  ones  self:  why  a  lo- 
cation should  be  selected  for  a  city  that  will  cost  millions, 
to  prepare  the  site,  when  a  mile  or  so  above  and  a  fcAV 
miles  below,  a  better  site  was  already  prepared  by  nature 
I  heard  here  an  anecdote  related,  which  perhaps  contains, 
the  philosophy  of  the  selection  made  here :  A  stranger 
cither  in  quest  of  a  new  field  for  speculation,  or  of  a  new- 
iiome  for  location,  desired  to  know  the  price  of  a  corner 
lot  perched  fifty  feet  above  the  grade.  Two  thousand  dol- 
lars was  the  price  asked.  "  Why  that's  enormous  "  said 
the  stranger :  "  do  you  not  see  it  will  have  to  be  graded 
down  fifty  feet  before  it  can  be  used."  "  That's  true  "  re- 
plied the  owner,  "  but  don't  you  see  the  fix  the  owner  of 
the  corner  lot  behind  on  the  next  street  is  in  ?  lie  is  J  ust  as^ 
much  below  the  grade,  and  he  will  pay  me  twenty-five  hun- 
dred dollars  for  my  sui'plus  dirt,  and  cart  it  off  himself  to 
fill  up  his."  Not  quite  satisfied  with  this  prospect  for  a 
speculation,  lie  went  in  quest  of  the  owner  of  the  other 
corner  to  ascertain  his  price.  Two  thousand  dollars  was- 
the  repl}-.  "■  What,"  said  the  stranger  "  two  thoxisand  dol- 
lars for  that  gully  ;  don't  you  see  that  it  is  fifty  feet  below 
the  grade,  and  will  have  to  bo  tilled  up  ? "  "■  That's  so," 
replied  the  owner,  "  but  don't  you  see  the  fix  the  owner  of 
the  other  corner  is  in  ?  lie  will  not  have  any  where  ta 
]jut  his  surplus  earth,  and  he  will  pay  me  twenty-five  hun- 
dred dollars  for  the  privilege  of  filling  up  my  lot." 

The  knights  of  Wall  Street  ai'O  credited  Avith  having  in- 
vented many  clever  schemes  in  getting  up  corners  of  vari- 
ous kinds,  but  no  genius  has  ever  appeared  there  equal  to 


10  OVER  THE  PLAIN'S  AND  ON'  THE  MOUNTAINS. 

the  task  of  irettinc;  up  suclx  a  brilliant  scheme  as  the  loca- 
tion of  Kansiis  Citv,  where  the  owner  not  only  sells  his 
corners  for  enormous  prices,  but  the  purchasers  gets  them 
for  nothini^  ami  a  larijo  bonus  besides. 

After  breakfast  at  the  State  Line,  we  got  abroad  of  the 
ti*ain  of  the  Missouri  Pacific  for  Atchison  in  Kansas,  forty 
seven  miles  distant.  Crossing  the  Kaw  or  Kansas  river, 
■\ve  ])assed  through  the  western  edge  of  Wyandotte,  a  flour- 
ishingand  thrifty  town,  lyingto  our  rightonthc  west  bank 
of  the  Missouri,  which  hero  has  a  general  course  nearly 
.south  though  after  receiving  the  Kaw  it  turns  cast.  The 
bluffs  soon  make  their  appearance  to  our  lef\,  intermitting 
sometimes  however  to  afford  a  passage  for  a  creek,  and  leav- 
ing a  level  ])lain  of  extent  enough  for  a  number  of  fine 
farms.  Tliese  bluffs  arc  covered  with  the  timber  generally 
abounding  in  Illinois  and  Missouri,  including  the  C'offee 
Xut,  (Gymnocladus  Canadensis,)  and  a  dense  thicket  of 
hazle  sumach,  and  other  undergrowth.  The  soil  consists  of 
broken  chert  and  limestone,  covered  by  a  black  loam  and 
vegetable  hvmus.  "We  soon  passed  the  city  of  Leavenworth, 
which  the  railroad  and  expressmen  spell  ''  11  worth  "  for 
short,  and  the  Fort  of  same  name,  situated  on  a  high  bluff  just 
north  of  the  city,  around' whose  base  the  railroad  winds. 
Opposite  the  Fort,  a  railroad  bridge  is  constructing  over 
the  Missouri  River  for  the  South-AVest  Railroad.  The 
piers,  consisting  of  immense  tubular  colums  of  iron  ftlled 
with  grout,  were  up  and  ready  to  receive  the  superstruc- 
ture. The  railroad  will  land  on  the  top  ofthe  bluff  in 
the  militai"}-  grounds. 

Several  small  pleasant  villages  lie  on  our  route  before 
we  reaf-h  Atchison  one  of  the  tastiest,  handsomest  and 
most  thriving  towns  in  the  West.  It  claims  a  population 
of  10,000.  and  is  us  biusy,  wide  awake  and  enterprising  a 
city  as  can  be  found  anywhere  ;  and  which  is  making  it- 
.self  the  railroad  centre  of  iiortheast  Kansas,  It  has  rail- 
road connections  with  the  Hannibal  and  St.  Joscj)h  Rail- 
road which  connects  it  with  Chicago  and  the  East  by  the 


OVER  THE  PLAINS   AND  ON  THE  MOUNTAINS.  11 

roads  runnini;^  throusrh  Central  Illinois  ;  with  the  North 
Missouri  aiid  .Mi.ssouri  Pacitic  Jloaris  wliioh  connect  it  with 
^St  Louis  and  the  South  and  East  with  the  C'enti'al  Branch 
■of  the  Union  Pacific,  which  will  ultimately  connect  itwitli 
the  West  and  the  coast  of  the  Pacific;  with  the  Atchison 
and  Nebraska  liailroad  now  constructinj^  and  graded  to  the 
State  line,  connecting  it  with  Omaha  and  the  North;  and 
with  tlie  South  and  Southwest  by  the  following  roads  partly 
constructed  or  under  contract  and  work  commenced,  name- 
iv:  Atchison, Topeka and  Saute Fe Railroad;  Atchison  Os- 
kaloosa  and  Lawrence  Railroad.  It  is  not  a  mushroom  towyn, 
but  its  growth  has  been  gradual,  steady  and  permanent. 
It  has  three  large  flourmills,  four  sawmills,  two  wagon  ' 
mannfactories,  one  large   furniture  manufactory,  etc. 

On  our  arrival  wo  were  received  by  Mayor  Smith  in  be- 
half of  the  large  concourse  of  citizens  assembled  to  wel- 
come  lis.  But  as  I  stepped  on  the  platform  I  instantly 
recognized  in  the  ci'owd,  Dr.  \Ym.  H.  Grimes,  an  old  acquain- 
.tanco  whom  I  had  not  seen  for  thirty-seven  years,  with 
whom  I  revived  reminiscences  of  ^'  lang  syne  "  until  the 
•ceremony  of  reception  was  over.  I  also  met  another  ac- 
quaintance here.  Gen.  B.  F.  Stringfellow,  conspicuous  in  the 
Missouri  raids  some  sixteen'and  more  years  ago,  of  which  he 
had  the  reputation  of  being  the  life  and  soul.  Yet  here  he  was 
in  a  Yankee  town  of  the  most  intense  Yankee  proclivities, 
thoroughly  reconstructed,  and  as  enterprising,  energetic 
and  progressive  as  any  of  them.  I  was  not  more  surprised 
to  find  him  here,  than  I  was  at  the  completeness  with  which 
he  has  3-ielded  to  the  current  that  sweeps  eveiything  on- 
ward here  with  irresistible  force.  The  peculiarity  of  Kan- 
sas society  everywhere,  is  that  the  whole  community  is  in- 
tensely in  earnest,  and  seems  to  work  as  though  it  had  buta 
one  mind  and  one  purpose.  This  is  a  main  reason,  for 
that  unexemplified  progress  and  prosperity  that  marks  all 
;8ections  of  the  State.  True,  it  requires  intelligence  to  be- 
•come  master  of  the  situation ;  and.  to  see  what  is  to  be 
'done;  but  when  this  is  seen,  then  it  requires,  will,  purpose. 


12  OVER  THE  PL,\INS   AND  ON  THE  MOUNTAINS. 

persistcni  ami  uuiied  otiort  to  achieve  it.  Consequently 
Kansas  will  umiortnke  and  successfully  accomplish,  the 
most  weight}'  eiitorprizes  in  less  time  than  it  takes  the 
more  sluggish  and  discordant  elements  of  the  older  States- 
to  arrive  at  a  conclusion  of  what  Avero  best  to  do.  Major- 
W.  F.  Downs,  the  General  Superintendent  of  the  Central 
Branch  of  the  Union  Pacific  Iliiilroad,  had  provided  for  us- 
an  extra  train  to  take  us  to  Waterville,  the  present  ter- 
minus of  the  road,  just  one  hundred  miles  west  from  here. 
We  were  accompanied  by  many  of  the  principle  citizens 
of  Atchison,  Avith  Avhom  we  s^ient  a  most  agreeable  time 
"Toiuff  and  rcturnini;. 

For  several  miles  the  country  is  divex'sified  b}'  hill  andi 
dale;  the  hills  rising  but  to  a  moderate  height,  and  where 
not  occupied  by  tiirms,  have  a  dense  growth  ofyoung  oak, 
hickor}',  walnut,  and  other  trees  indigenous  to  the  West^ 
How  the  seeds  from  Avhich  they  sprung  got  there,  puzzles, 
tho  citizens;  for  when  the  settlers  first  came  these  hills 
were  covered  with  prairie  grass  with  no  sign  of  aliy  other 
growth.  I  confess  I  cannot  account  for  it,  but  it  is  an  oc- 
currence that  happens  everywhere  ;  not  only  in  Kansas, 
but  in  the  West,  wherever  the  fire  is  kept  out  of  prairies 
contiguous  to  timber,  a  young  forest  growth  immediately  . 
springs  up.  Many  of  the  citzens  of  St.  Genevieve,  Missouri, 
recollect  the  time  when  the  Illinois  bottom  opposite  to. 
their  town,  was  a  treeless  prairie.  Now  it  is  a  dense  forest,, 
with  sycamore,  cottonwood,  walnut,  linden,  pecan  and  oak 
trees  from  thirty  to  forty  inches  in  diameter. 

The  first  village,  Farmington,  is  twelve  and  a  half  miles 
west  of  Atchison.  It  is  situated  in  a  rich,  undulating  coun- 
try, which  is  thickly  settled,  and  Avell  timbered.  Three 
•nilcs further  is  Monrovia  on  the  south  bank  of  Stranger 
Creek,  surrounded  by  a  rich  country.  It  has  a  beautiful 
site,  and  is  the  oldest  town  on  the  road.  Some  three  miles 
farther  is  Effingham,  anew  and  thriving  village.  Twill 
here  state  that  all  the  towns  and  villages  along  the  road 
have  good  public  school  houses,  and  one  or  more  churches- 


OVER  I'HE  PLAINS   AND  ON  THE  MOUNTAINS.  13 

The  next  town,  one  of  tl\o  lari^cst,  is  Muscoutah,  handnome- 
1y  located  on  the  hanks  of  the  (ri-asshopper,  which  affords 
fine  water-power.  It  is  just  on  the  cdi!;o  of  the  Kickapoo 
Heserve,  in  one  of  the  richest  sections  of  the  State.  Senator 
Pomeroy  lives  here.  lie  lias  a  highly  improved  limn  in 
the  vicinity.  Maj.  Downs,  the  Superintendent  of  the  rail- 
road, also  has  a  splendid  farm  near  town.  Both  he  and 
Mr.  Pomero}',  have  on  their  farms  some  of  the  best  blooded 
-stock  in  tlie  State. 

Here   we  saw  the  Kickapoo   chief  Parthe,  who  was  in 
■town  with  his  squaw  and  papoose.     He  brouiijht  the  latter 
wp  to  see    the  engine,  but  it  became    so  frightened,  as  to 
.scream  and  struggle,  and  he  had  hard  work  to  hold  it;  Init 
when  the  band  struck  up  it  became  i^erfectly  frantic.     He 
-and  his   squaw  were  dressed  in  the  costume  of  the  whites. 
Poor  fellow,  ho  has  since  been  miirdered  In'  a  half  breed. 
He  was  repi'osented  as  a  good  man,  had  himself  been  natu- 
ralized, and  M'as  influencing  his  people  to  become  both  civi- 
lized and  naturalized.     At  over}- session  of  the  courts,  from 
eight  to  fifteen,  are  invested  with  the  rights,  duties,  ])rivi- 
leges.  franchises  and  responsibilities  of  American    citizen- 
.ship.     They  cultivate  the  soil  to  some  extent,  but  are  more 
generally  engaged  in  stock  raising.     They  have  a  system 
■of  ])ublic  schools  and  good  school  houses,  where  all  the 
-children  of  the  tribe   are    educated.     They   are  entirely 
peaceable,  and  the  whites  deal    honestly  with  them,  and 
treat  them  with  the  greatest  kindness. 

Six  miles  beyond  Muscoutah  is  Whiting;  and  five  and  a 
lialf  miles  bej'ond  it  is  Netawaka,  a  prosperous  town  ofsix 
stores,  tM'o  hotels;  and  a  weekly  paper,  the  Herald,  is 
imblished  here.  Both  those  places  are  irt  the  Kickapoo 
Keservo. 

The  next  town  is  Wetmore,   having  four  stores,  a  grain 

-'^ware-house,  etc.,  then  comes  Sherman,  a  railroad  station  at 
the  fiftieth  mil©  post  from  Atchison,  surrounded  by  a  most 

'-ifceautiful  and  rich  agricultural  country.    Corning  is  a  flour- 
ishing town  seven  miles  ftirther  West.     Then  comes  Cen- 


14  OVER  THE  PLAINS   AND  ON  THE  MOUNTAINS. 

inilisv  .'U  ihe  sixty-second  mile  post,  one  of  the  largest  and 
most  prosperous  towns  on  tho  line.  Vermillion  comes; 
next,  and  then  Frankfort,  a  largo  and  thriving  town.  The 
Vermillion  river  dose  by,  affords  fine  water-power. 

Next  comes  Barretts,  a  thriving  village,  having  a  saw  mill 
and  excellent  wtrter-power,  with  plenty  of  timber  in  the  vi- 
cinity. Elizabeth,  another  village  three  miles  beyond,  has- 
a  tinoquality  of  mugnesiaii  limestone  for  building ptirposes. 
The  next  is  Irving,  ninety  miles  from  Atchison;  it  is  a 
most  enterprising,  prosperous  town.  A  newspaper,  the 
Jiecorder,  isi)ublished  here.  Besides  having  the  most  com- 
modious public  school-house  in  Northern  Kansas,  it  has  the 
"  Wctraore  Institute, "  an  excellent  institution  of  learning. 
The  town  is  situated  just  beyond  the  Big  Blue. 

Blue  Riipids,  live  miles  beyond,  is  a  colonial  settlement 
from  Xew  York,  about  a  year  old.  It  has  some  seventy- 
houses,  two  stores,  sawmill,  hotel,  etc,  It  has  fine  water- 
jiower,  and  steps  have  been  taken  to  make  it  available  for 
manufacturing  purposes.  Waterville  is  situated  at  the  jjres- 
ent  terminus  of  the  railroad,  one  hundred  miles  west  of  At- 
chison. It  is  about  five  years  old,  has  twenty  stores,  four 
hotels,  gristmill,  wagon  manufactor}-,  etc.  It  is  beautifully 
situated  near  grassy  bluffs,  some  two  miles  south  of  the  Little 
Blue,  which  hero  comes  In  from  the  northwest  skirted  by  a 
belt  of  timber.  The  citizens  had  prepared  for  us  a  stimptuous 
banquet,  to  furnish  which  every  zone  and  climate  on  the 
globe,  were  laid  under  contribution.  It  was  surprising  to  see 
here,  on  the  outskirtsof  civilization,  whither  the  first  wave- 
'»f  immigration  had  rolled  only  a  few  years  previous,  the 
luxuries  of  the  Old  andNew  World,  and  of  both  the  Indies 
brought  together  to  furnish  a  banquet  that  the  proudest, 
princes  cannot  excel.  After  dinner  was  dispatched  then 
came  the  speeches,  which  were  fully  equal  to  the  best  effort 
that  such  occasions  call  forth  elsewhere.  But  this  is  not 
saying  much  however;  for  postprandium  speeches  every- 
where amongst  us,  show,  that  we  as  a  nation  are  running- 
more  into  gab  than  into  thouyht. 


OVER  THE  PLAINS   AND  ON  THE  MOUNTAINS.  15 

After  dinner  avc  examined  some  beautiful  blocks  of  mag- 
ncsian  limestone,  and  also  an  immense  block  of  gypsum 
quarried  out  of  the  hills.  Upon  invitation  we  ascended  the 
grassy  bluff  behind  and  south  of  the  church.  The  sides, 
though  covered  with  grass,  were  stony,  apparently  for  the 
most  part  fragmentary  chert ;  and  amongst  the  grass  the 
beautiful  rose  colored  flowers  of  the  Sensitive  Briar 
{Schrankla  uncinata)  and  the  no  less  beautiful  and  large 
purple  blooms  of  the  Penste/non  (jrandiflorus.  A  splendid 
carmine  colored  Phlox  also  abounded    everywhere. 

The  soil  on  the  top  of  the  bluff  is  a  deep  rich  loam,  bear- 
ing a  heavy  ci-op  of  prairie  grass.  To  the  v/est,  south 
and  east  i--3  a  boundless  prairie  j  while  north,  beyond  the 
tine  valle}'- at  your  feet,  through  which  runs  the  Little  Blue,, 
the  view  is  bounded  by  the  timber  belt  along  that  stream. 
In  other  directions  no  timber  was  visible,  though  it  is  said 
to  be  abundant  on  a  tributary  of  the  Blue  some  ten  miles 
off  to  the  southwest;  and  also  beyond  that  in  the  valley  of 
the  Republican,  and  its  affluents.  There  are  a  considerable 
number  of  new  hoiises  dotting  the  prairies  surrounded  by 
the  newly  broken  sod.  The  bluffs  are  n*ere  swells  rising 
to  modei-ato  elevations,  say  jione  exceeding  a  height  of 
fifly  feet.  Though  sometinics  pretty  steep,  they  are  smooth- 
ly rounded  off,  and  covered  by  the  luxuriant  green  prairie 
grass.  In  fact  so  artistically  are  they  rounded  and  dressed^ 
that  they  look  like  immense  sodded  bastions  around  a  for- 
tification. 

I  will  here  state  that  the  rural  landscape  along  the  entire 
route  is  not  emotional  as  far  as  exciting  the  turbulent  feel- 
ings of  the  wonderful  and  sublime  are  concerned;  but  on 
the  contrary  it  inspires  the  quiet  and  soothing  emotions  of 
absolute  peace,  tranquility,  contentment  and  repose.  Look- 
ing at  it  until  you  imbibe  its  spirit,  you  think  it  almost  an 
impossibility  that  men  dwelling  in  such  a  quiet,  peaceable 
Arcadia  as  this,  would  become,  or  ever  could  become  ruffled^ 
and  show  the  stronger  and  rougher  passions  of  tlic  human 
heart. 


16  OVER  THE  PLAINS   AND  ON  THE  MOUNTAINS. 

Watervillo  is  in  the  "western  part  of  Marshall  county. 
Wrtshini::t(>n  County  lies  west,  and  has  already  a  consid- 
erable population,  thouojh  all  the  settlements  are  of  quite 
recent  date.  West  of  AVashinij^ton  is  J?e2)ublic  county. 
(Crossed  ilia^onally  from  its  north-west  to  its  south-east 
•corner  by  the  Ivejiublican  river.  This  is,  or  was  the  west- 
ern limits  of  settlement  at  the  beginning  of  the  present 
season.  All  these  counties  are  bounded  north  by  the  state 
Jine,  that  is  by  Nebraska. 

On  board  the  cars  again,  wo  were  soon  on  oui-way  back, 
•stopping  at  Blue  Papids,  and  paying  a  visit  to  the  dam, 
•constructed  1)y  the  colonists  across  the  Blue,  just  below  the 
junction  of  tho  Little  Blue,  which  has  its  sources  to  the 
north-west  in  XelnMska,  and  tho  Big  Blue  which  lieads 
north,  also  in  Nebraska,  near  the  Platte  river.  Bhw 
Rapids  is  about  a  mile  and  a  half  from  the  railroad  station. 
The  citizens  had  come  in  wagons  and  other  vehicles  to 
convey  us  thither;  but  they  had  not  calculated  on  quite  so 
large  a  part}-,  consequently  all  could  not  get  accommoda- 
tions, of  which  unfortunate  class  I  hajipencd  to  bo  one. 
Some  liowever,'Avalked;  but  as  I  thought  a  walk  of  three 
miles  in  such  a  sweltering  day  would  not  JJay,  I  remained 
at  the  tstation.  It  was  near  sundown  when  the  party  re- 
turned. They  found  the  citizens  celebrating  the  comple- 
tion of  their  iron  bridge  across  the  Blue  on  the  abutments 
of  tho  dam,  by  a  pic-nic.  The  guests  were  invited  to  walk 
across  by  the  coh)nists;  on  their  return  the}'  were  lialted, 
a  charge  made  along  the  whole  line,  (one  dollar,)  by  an 
artist  who  had  gone  up  on  the  train,  and  then  photo- 
graphed ;  a  cop3^  of  which  was  to  have  been  delivered  to 
•each,  a  condition  that  he  has  not  yet  been  able  to  comply 
with. 

These  colonists  have  adopted  the  only  plan  of  speedy 
sncfCKs  with  such  an  enterprise,  and  at  the  same  time 
avoiding  the  evils  of  non-em])]oyment,  and  consequent  suf- 
•I'ering  and  j)rivation.  They  have  selected  as^)cautiful  and 
.as  rich  an  agricultural  location  as  there  is  in  the  Westj 


OVKR  THE  PIoAINS    AND  ox  THE  MOUNTAINS.  17* 

having  at  the  same  time  a  site  furnishing  any  desirablo 
amount  of  "water-power.  They  have  already  completed  a 
dam  Avhich  makes  that  water-power  available.  A  sawmill 
is  in  operation,  and  a  gristmill  of  the  largest  size  almost 
completed ;  woolen  and  other  manufiictoriea  are  to  follow 
in  rapid  succession,  and  the  colony  will  be  more  than  u 
self-sustaining  community  before  the  end  of  another  year, 
I  did  not  learn  whether  the  colonists  own  the  capital  in- 
vested or  not. 

Underway  again;  it  was  dusk  when  we  crossed  the  Blue 
at  Irving,  reaching  Atchison  near  twelve  o'clock,  where  we 
found  a  sjDecial  train  to  take  us  to  Leavenworth,  where 
we  arrived  at  half  past  one  in  the  morning. 

The  following  may  bo  taken  as  a  general  summary  of 
the  features,  character,  quality  of  soil,  sanitary  condition, 
etc!*,  of  the  country  between  Atchison  and  AVaterville. 

The"  soil  is  deep  and  rich,  even  on  the  upland  prairie. 
Timber  abounds  in  considerable  quantities,  and  is  well  dis- 
tributed. Hero  the  prairies  are  seen  generally  to  he 
bounded  by  timber,  while  along  all  brooks  and  creeks  the 
forest  is  heavy.  In  this  there  is  a  great  difference  between 
a  landscape  here  and  that  of  the  great  prairies  in  Illinois, 
Iowa  and  Missouri,  where  the  wholo  horizon  includes  but 
one  single  continuous  treeless  plain. 

The  drainage  is  perfect,  since  the  country  is  rolling,  but 
only  in  gentle  swells,  while  the  river  bottoms,  several 
miles  in  width,  are  flanked  by  hills  of  considerable  eleva- 
tion. There  is  a  strong  current  in  all  the  streams,  the  wa- 
ter consequently  is  clear  and  pure.  There  are  no  stagnant 
pools  nor  low  wet  and  marshy  lands  to  j^oison  the  air 
with  miasma.  True,  there  are  bilious  diseases,  but  so 
there  are  everywhere,  where  new  clearings  are  made,  and 
virgin  soil  broken  uj)  and  exposed  to  a  midsummer  sun. 
These  diseases  however  are  of  a  mild  type,  and  decrease  . 
as' the  quantity  of  newly  broken  prairie  diminishes  from 
year  to  year,  and  almost  entirely  disappear  wheix  all  the 
land  is  broucrht  under  cultivation.     This  conforms  to  ex- 


18  OVER  TUE  PLAINS   AND  ON  THE  MOUNTAINS, 

perience  everywhere,  cither  east  or  Avest.  That  bilious 
diseases  become  mikler  and  less  frequent  as  the  country 
settles  up,  is  a  well  established  fact.  Time  was  when 
chills  and  fever  were  just  as  prevalent  in  the  Gcnessee 
valley  as  ever  they  were  in  Illinois. 

Tho  bluffs  that  flank  the  valley  often  are  stony,  and 
some  even  expose  ledges  of  rocks.  They  arc  so  abundant 
in  some  places,  that  we  saw  quite  a  number  of  stone  fences 
along  tho  route. 

S})rini:;s  of  pure  cold  water  are  numerous  along  the  whole 
route,  anil  are  said  to  exslst  westward  indefinitely.  On 
tlio  highest  i)rairie8  tho  best,  pure  and  cold  water  can  be 
obtained  by  sinking  wells  from  20  to  50  feet. 

Wood  is  still  generally  used  for  fuel,  costing  from  three 
to  four  dollars  a  cord.  But  it  has  been  ascertained  that 
extensive  coal  beds  underlie  tho  country,  from  two  to 
i'our  feet  in  thickness.  At  several  places,  these  beds  have 
been  opened,  and  are  now  worked. 

The  Grasshoj)per,  Vermillion  and  Blue  rivers  furnish  a 
large  amount  of  water-power,  and  sawmills  are  found  along 
all  of  these  streams.  Tho  price  of  native  lumber  is  from 
Slo  to  §25  per  thousand  feet. 

Besides,  stone,  board  and  wire  fences,  we  saw  quite  a  num- 
ber of  osage  orange  hedges  planted,  and  some  pretty  well  es- 
tablished. I  should  think  the  country  from  its  abundant 
fresh  water,  large  range  covered  with  luxuriant  grasses,  and 
fine  climate,  avcU  adapted  to  stock  raising  and  dairying  pur- 
poses. These  no  doubt  now  and  for  an  indefinite  time 
to  come  will  be  as  remunerative  as  any  other  business  what- 
ever. 

I  could  not  obtain  any  reliable  data  of  how  much  public 
land  there  remains  subject  to  entrj',  homestead  ()rj)re-emp- 
tion.  The  railroad  has  a  grant  of  land  of  every  alternate 
'section  for  ten  miles  on  each  side  of  the  road.  They  hold 
them  from  two  to  eight  dollars  per  acre,  with  a  liberal  dis- 
count for  cash.  They  will  sell  them  also  on  a  credit  of 
three,  four,  six  and  ten  years  at  diflTerent  rates  of  interest, 


OVER  THE  PLAINS   AND  ON  THE  MOUNTAINS.  19 

according  to  time.  Full  particulars  can  be  a.sccrtainod  from 
the  General  Superintendent  and  Land  Agent  oi'the  road, 
Maj.  W.  F.  Downs.  The  amount  of  corn,  wheat  and  pota- 
toes raised  per  acre,  is  equal  to  the  highest  figures  attained 
in  Missouri  and  Iowa.  In  iact  the  quantities  reported  seem 
like  marvelous  stories.  But  from  the  character  of  the  soil 
and  nature  of  the  climate,  there  can  be  no  doubt  that  the 
yield  is  enormous. 


20  OVER  TUE  PLAIN'S  AND  OX  THE   MOL'NTAIXS. 


CHAPTER  II. 

After  breakfast  we  found  carriages  provided  by  the  citi- 
zens in  readiness  to  give  us  a  drive  through  and  around  the 
city.  "We  drove  up  one  of  the  main  streets  to  the  Military 
Grounds  just  north  of  the  city.  These  grounds  arc  very  ex- 
tensive, and  are  elaborately  laid  off  into  ])lots,  on  which  are 
situated,  surrounded  with  flowers  and  shrubber}',  expensive 
mansions  for  the  accommodation  of  the  numerous  ofiicei*H 
always  located  here.  This  is  the  Headquarters  of  the  Trans- 
Mississippi  Military  Department,  where  men  and  military- 
stores  are  collected  for  distribution  to  the  Upper  Missouri, 
Colorado,  Upper  Arkansas  and  IS'ew  Mexico.  The  barracks 
are  very  large  to  accommodate  the  soldiers  concentrated 
here  from  the  malarious  Gulf  States  for  recuperation,  and 
from  the  Northwestern,  Western  and  Southwestern  Terri- 
tories for  relaxation.  The  military  reservation  is  a  most 
beautiful  tract,  contiiining  6000  acres.  The  part  occupied  is 
a  level  plateau  on  a  high  bluff,  whence  there  is  a  command- 
ing view  of  the  city  of  Leavenworth  to  the  south,  which  it 
entirely  overlooks ;  the  Missouri  Eiver  for  many  miles  both 
up  and  down  and  the  rich  bottom  or  valley  east ;  and  west 
a  fine  undulating  country  of  hill  and  dale,  as  far  as  sight 
extends. 

After  driving  through  the  military  grounds,  we  drove 
south-east  to  tlie  edge  of  the  bluff,  and  dismounted  to  look 
at  the  structure,  a  stone  abutment,  in  process  of  erec- 
tion at  the  terminus  of  the  bridge,  on  top  of  the  bluff,  for 
the  Chicago  and  Southwestern  llailroad,  and  also  of  the 
piers  of  the  bridge,  then  ready  to  receive  the  superstruct- 
ure. 

The  bridge  is  to  be  wrought  iron,  placed  upon  piers  of  cas^t 


OVER  THE  PLAirJS  AND  ON  THE  MOUNTAINS.  21 

iron,  tho  columns  of  which  arc  now  in  position.  Ah  this 
was  a  novelty  to  mo  in  civil  engineering,  I  will  briefly  de- 
scribe it.  The  sections  of  the  columns  are  eight  and  a  half 
feet  in  diametei-,  ten  feet  in  length  and  one  and  three  quar- 
ter inches  thick,  and  weigh  about  ten  tons  each.  With 
proper  flanges  at  tho  ends,  these  sections  arc  joined  in  tho 
process  of  sinking,  so  as  to  form  a  continuous  cylinder, 
reaching  from  the  superstructure  to  tho  solid  rock  on  tho 
bottom  of  the  river.  Tho  whole  is  then  filled  np  with 
concrete  masonry  and  grouting.  Two  of  these  columns 
placed  side  and  side  longitudinally  with  the  current,  form 
one  pier.  .There  are  three  of  these  piers,  two  in  the  river, 
and  one  on  the  eastern  shore ;  the  bridge  to  land  on  the 
western  shore  on  a  stone  abutment.  The  elevation  is  ten 
feet  above  the  high  water  line.  Each  of  the  three  spans 
thus  formed,  will  be  three  hundred  and  forty  feet  in  length; 
and  the  bottom  of  the  lower  chord  fift}'  feet  above  extreme 
high  water,  so  that  steamboats  can  pass  at  any  stage  of  the 
river.  The  approach  to  the  eastern  end  of  the  bridge  con- 
sists of  trestle  work,  1500  feet  long,  and  an  earth  embank- 
ment extending  2500  feet  further,  both  of  which  are  com- 
pleted. It  is  contemplated  to  make  this  bridge  a  common 
union  for  the  crossing  of  all  railroads  terminating  here, 
both  from  the  East  and  "West. 

Remounting  our  carriages,  we  Avere  driven  back  thrt)ugh 
ilie  military  grounds,  and  west  on  and  along  tho  heights 
that  surround  the  city.  These  were  at  some  places  quite 
stony,  covered  with  a  young  and  low  growth  of  forest 
trees,  interspersed  with  the  many  wild  flowers  indigenous 
to  this  section.  We  now  for  the  first  time  realized  the 
charming  location  of  the  city.  We  could  look  down  the 
]\^issouri  river  south-eastwardly  fully  twenty  miles,  and 
both  shoi-es  appeared  one  unbroken  forest  of  gigantic  trees. 
But  right  beloAV  us,  on  the  banks  of  the  river,  in  an  am- 
phitheatre of  some  three  or  four  miles  in  length,  two  miles 
in  depth,  and  gradually  rising  to  our  position,  is  nestled  the 
city  of  Leavenworth,  containing  fully  25,000  inhabitants. 


82  OVER   THK  PLAINS  AND  ON.  Tift  MOUNTAINS. 

To  the  west,  ami  ui  the  distance  of  about  half  a  mile,  lie« 
the  valley  of  Salt  Creek,  a  stream  that  debouches  into  the 
Missouri  above  the  Fort.  Our  position  must  have  been  at 
least  two  hundred  feet  above  this  valley,  appai'ently  two 
miles  in  width,  and  surrounded  on  all  sides  by  heavily 
timbered  and  high  hills.  It  was  one  of  the  finest  rui-al 
pictures  I  ever  beheld.  In  'the  centre  at  the  M'idcst  part 
arises  a  rounded  hill,  about  sixty  feet  higli,  of  perhaj^s 
eighty  acres  in  area  and  heavily  timbered;  while  all  around 
it  lay  the  most  neat,  tidy  and  thrifty  farms  in  the  liighost 
tilth.  ]t  reminded  me  of  the  landscape  and  scenery  of  my 
boyhood's  homo  in  the  Tuscaroras. 

"We  now  tlrove  to  the  residence  of  Professor  "Percival  G. 
Lowe,  where  wg  2)artook  of  some  of  his  cherries  and  straw- 
berries and  some  native  wine.  After  walking  through  his 
garden  and  grounds  of  shrubbery,  we  drove  to  the  south- 
ern limits  of  the  city,  and  then  returned  towards  its  cen- 
tral parts,  but  were  l)rought  to  a  halt  before  the  spacious 
mansion  of  Gen.  J.  (.'.  Stone  where  we  dismounted,  and 
were  received  by  the  Genei-al  and  his  estimable  lady  in 
the  most  cordial  and  hospitable  manner.  Ushered  into 
his  drawing  room,  we  spent  some  time  in  admiring  the 
fine  specimens  of  art,  both  in  painting  and  sculpture.  Of 
the  former  Ijut  very  few  were  fancy  pieces,  representing 
moslly  noted  wild  landscape  scenery  in  Europe  and 
America. 

The  doors  wore  now  thrown  open,  and  we  found  our 
host  had  with  a  muniticencc  that  would  do  lionor  to  a 
prince,  j>repared  a  most  8umj)tuous  dinner  for  us.  There 
were  spring  chickens,  liam,  butValo  tongue,  pies,  cakes  and 
pastry  Of  every  imaginable  kind,  an  exhaustive  assort- 
ment of  comfits  and  candies,  together  with  ice  cream 
Then  there  were  the  largest,  finest  and  most  luscious 
strawbeiTies  and  cherries,  all  raised  on  liis  farm  near  the 
city,  besides  the  choicest  native  wines. 

Before  leaving  the  mansion  of  our  hospitable  host,  we 
were  invited  to  inspect  an  upper  room,  completely  decorated 


OVER    THE  PLAINS  AND  OS  THE  MOUNTAINS.  23 

witli  military  caps,  and  other  German  military  paraphernalia 
brought  home  by  the  General's  .son,  who  has  just  returned 
after  icraduatincc  in  a  German  university.  I  never  saw  a 
native  so  completely  Germanized  as  he;  and  so  charmed 
was  he  with  university  life  in  Germany,  that  he  spoke  on- 
th«siasti('ally  of  it.  We  could  not,  however,  admire  or 
commend  all  the  features  of  such  a  life,  that  for  instance 
of  the  barbarous  custom  of  resorting  on  every  occasion  t<> 
single  combat,  to  avenge  any  real  or  fancied  insult.  Oui* 
young  friend  bears  on  his  otherwise  handsome  face  and 
manly  brow,  many  ugly  scai's  from  sword  wounds  received 
in  such  encounters. 

After  talcing  a  most  cordial  leave  of  our  munificent  host 
and  his  estimable  lady,  we  returned  to  the  hotel  to  await 
the  departure  of  the  evening  train  for  Lawrence;  mean- 
while I  took  mentally  a  business  review  of  the  city  and 
its  surroundings. 

Leavenworth  has  naturally  one  of  the  most  favorable 
sites  for  a  commercial  city.  Situated  on  the  west  bank  of 
the  Missouri  river,  it  has  water  communication  with  all 
the  states  of  the  Mississippi  Valley  and  the  Gulf,  and  with 
the  gold  and  silver  producing  territories  of  the  upper  Mis- 
souri. But  in  these  days,  no  city  has  an^^  hold  on,  nor  sec- 
urity for  permanent  commercial  prosperity,  by  having  only 
water  communiciition  with  the  outside  world.  The  arte- 
ries of  commerce  now  are  of  iron,  instead  of  water,  as 
formerly.  In  foreign  commerce,  water  communication 
will  always  hold  an  incontestiblc  superiority,  but  it  can 
no  longer  c^jntrol  the  commercial  movements  within  the 
interior  of  a  continent.  To  concentrate  and  distribute  the 
products  of  a  continent  and  of  the  world,  railroads  have 
an  unquestioned  pre-eminence  over  all  other  modes  of 
transportation.  In  casting  the  horoscope  of  any  city's 
permanent  growth  and  prosperity,  her  railroad  access- 
ability  and  facilities  must  bo  considered.  Applying  this 
principle  to  Leavenworth,  it  will  be  seen  that  the  auguries 
for  the  future  are  most  auspiciou.s.     She  is  now  connected 


24       OVER  THE  PLAINS  AND  ON  THE  MOUNTAINS. 

by  Avay  of  St.  Louis,  with  the  East,  tlie  Centre  and  the 
Soutli  l)y  the  ilissouri  Pacific,  and  the  Missouri  Valley  and 
Xorth  Missouri  railroads;  -with  Chicago  and  ^vith  the  East 
and  Xorth,  l>y  the  Cliicago,  Burlington  and  Quincy,  the 
Hannibal  ami  St.  Joseph,  and  the  Missouri  Yallc}-,  the  llock 
Island  and  Pacific,  and  tho  Chicago  und  Southwestern 
railroads;  Avith  the  Xorth,  the  Xorth-west  and  the  Pacific 
coast,  first,  by  way  of  Council  P>IufTs,  hy  the  ilissouri  Val- 
ley and  St.  Joseph  and  Council  Bluff  railroads;  second, 
by  way  of  Denver  by  tho  I^eavcnworth,  Lawrence  und 
Galveston  and  the  Kansas  Pacific  railroads.  Tho  Jjcaven- 
worth,  Atchison  and  Xorth  western  railroad,  now  in  process 
of  construction,  will  connect  it  with  Omaha,  opposite  Coun- 
cil Blufls.  The  Union  Central  l)ranch  of  the  Union  Pacific 
railroad,  now  completed  to  'Waterville,  Avill  when  com- 
]>leted,  give  it  direct  communication  with  San  Francisco. 
With  the  South-west,  with  the  Leavenworth,  Topeka  and 
Santa  Fe  railroad,  now  com])lcted  to  Xcwton,  within  20 
miles  of  the  Arkansas  river;  and  with  the  Gulf  and  the 
South  direct,  by  the  Leavenworth,  Lawrence  and  Galves- 
ton railroa<l.  Besides  these  there  are  several  railroads 
under  contract  and  the  work  progressing,  and  several 
more  projected.  Amongst  those  under  contract  and  in  a 
state  of  ])rogrcss,  the  most  imj)ortant  is  a  narrow  gauge  to 
Denver,  thence  to  Santa  Fe,with  branches  through  Middle 
J*ark  to  Salt  Lake  Valley,  and  to  Helena  in  Montana,  by 
way  of  ('lii'vcniic.  Tt  will  be  thus  seen  that  LeavenAvorth 
now  is  M-ell  su]i}died  with  railroad  facilities  wliich  are  an- 
nually extending.  There  arc  five  daily  newspapers,  four 
in  English  and  one  German,  ])ublislied  lure,  besides 
several  weeklies  and  luonlhlies.  There  ai'c  about  one 
hundred  and  twehtv  nninufacturin';  establishments,  tho 
aggregate  products  of  which  are  estimated  ainuially  to  ex- 
ceed 82,500,000. 

At  thirty  miiuites  after  fo\ir  we  left  for  Lawrence  on 
the  Leavenworth,  Lawrence  and  Galveston  ]iailroad. 

The  coimtry  between  Leavenworth  and  Fairmont  is  gen- 


OVER  THK  PLAINS  AND  ON  THE  MOUNTAINS.       25' 

erally  heavily  timbered  with  the  varieties  oftrees  that  are  iii- 
digcnouH  to  the  country ;  .sucli  as  Sycamore,  (^ottonwood,  wil- 
low, ehii,  hickory,  oak,  hack  berry,  and  walnut.    Tlie  Ken- 
tucky coffeenut  (  Gymnocladus  Canadensis)  and  two  species  of 
the  honey  locust  (Glcditchia  iriacanthos,  and  G.monosperma) 
and  tlie  Red  bud  occurred  occasionally.     A  young  growth 
has  also  Kj)rung  up  on  what  was  formerly  prairie,  Avhich 
has    attained  considerable  hei<i;ht.      The   undcrirrowth  is 
principally    hazel   and  sumach.     The    different  species  of 
wild  grape  arc  also    conspicuous  everywhere.     There  aro 
many  fine  farms  along  the  line,  but  where  man  has  not  ta- 
ken possession  of  the  jirairie,  the  forest  trees  have,  so  that  east 
of  Fairmont  and  for  some  distance  Avest  the  prairies  have 
practically  disappeared.     The   country   around  Fairmont 
is  rich  and  beautiful  with  a  black  friable  soil.     The  surface, 
undulates  into  gentle  swells  affording  good  drainage. 

"Westward  the  character  of  the  country  changes  somewhat. 
The  varieties  oftimbcr  peculiar  to  the  river  bottoms  appear 
no  longer,  being  replaced  by  more  valuable  varieties,  such 
as  oaks  and  hickories.  The  undergrowth  of  hazel,  sumach 
and  wild  grapevines  continues  in  the  forest,  but  there  now 
occur  small  glades  of  grassy  plain  called  "  openings."' , 
These  arc  enameled  Avith  the  beautiful  carmine  Phlox  al- 
ready mensioued,  the  prairie,  and  dog  rose,  the  Tradescan- 
thia  Virginlca,  Schrankla  uncinata,  white  perennial  lark- 
spur, the  purple  Polanisia,  blue  Ponstemons.  etc.  Amongst 
weeds  I  noticed  an  ash  colored  Artemisia,  the  daisy  flea- 
bane  (^Erigeron  anmium)  the  Rosin-weed,  or  Comjiass-plant 
{Silphiuni  lacbiiatum)  and  several  species  of  Ilelianthus. 

Tongauoxie,  a  small  village,  is  situated  on  a  tine  rolling 
prairie,  surrounded  by  beautiful  farms.  AYcstward  the 
prairies  become  larger  and  the  swells  culminate  in  hills  of 
moderate  height.  Reno  is  the  next  village  surrounded  by 
a  rich  farming  country.  The  wheat  crop  generally' along 
the  route  was-heavy,  and  fully  ri])e  on  the  7th  of  June  when 
Ave  passed  there. 

A   rather   singular  incident  occurred  here.     While  the 


26  OVJCR   THIS  PLAINS  AND  ON  TIIK  MOUNTAIN'S. 

train  stoppod,  some  of  tho  pa.sscnger.s  got  out  and  commenced 
caressing  a  tH)lt  belonging  to  a  team  standing  at  the  sta- 
tion, and  linaily  got  it  on  the  platform.  When  the  train 
started,  the  colt  got  on  the  track  and  followed  the  train 
fully  a  mile,  putting  forth  its  best  eftbrts  to  keep  up,  but 
of  course  was  distanced.  When  we  arrived  at  the  railroad 
station  at  Lawrence,  wo  found  conveyances  in  charge  of  the 
Hon.  I.  8.  Kalloch,  President  of  the  Kansas  State  Agricul- 
tural Society.  He  addressed  us  a  few  pertinent  words,  to 
this  eftect,  that  here  wxm-c  conveyances  to  take  us  to  the  Ei- 
dridge  House,  that  we  must  consider  ourselves  as  the  guests 
of  the  State  Society,  who  would  pay  all  hotel  and  other  ex- 
penses, and  even  for /n<?(//cin«  while  we  remained  in  tho  city, 
sind  therefore,  as  ho  had  captured  and  made  prisoners  of  us, 
all  we  could  do  was  to  get  aboard  the  'busses,  carriages,  etc., 
as  resistance  was  useless.  Comprehending  the  situation, 
our  party  yielded  with  the  greatest  grace  possible,  and  were 
rapidly  driven  over  the  bridge  and  upMassacluisctts  street, 
and  set  down  at  the  Eldridgc  House.  The  Kansas  Pacific 
railroad  depot  at  which  we  landed,  is  on  the  north  side  of 
tho  river,  while  the  city  proper  of  Lawrence  is  on  the 
"South  side. 

The  Kaw  is  a  rapid  stream  some  two  hundred  yards  wide, 
and  is  spanned  by  a  substantial  bridge,  which  connects  tho 
northern  suburb  and  the  Kansas  Pacific  railroad  depot  witli 
the  city.  The  L.  L.  and  Galveston  railroad  crosses  the 
Kaw  below,  and  lias  its  depot  near  the  eastern  limits  of  the 
<;ity  on  tho  south  side  of  the  river. 

As  the  Eldridgc  House  is  the  largest  and  one  of  the  best 
kept  hotels  west  of  St.  Louis,  it  cost  us  no  effort  to  recon- 
cile ourselves  to  our  situation  as  prisoners.  The  kind  treat- 
ment of  the  keeper  and  the  attentive  and  obliging  disposi- 
tion of  the  servants,  but  above  all  the  splendid  sujtper,  spa- 
cious rooms  and  elegant  beds,  rather  made  us  like  the  oper- 
ation of  being  '*  put  through  "  in  that  way. 

IJy  tho  way  this  Eldridgc  House  has  a  history.  The 
abrogation  of  the  Missouri    Compromise,  which  excluded 


OVER  THE  PLAINS  AND  ON  THE  MOUNTAINS.       27 

jslavery  from  all  territory  north  of  thirty-six  and  a  half  de- 
grees of  north  latitude,  and  the  passage  of  the  Kansas-Ne- 
bi-aska  bill  by  Congress, actually  initiated  the  conflict  whirh 
culminated  in  the  rebellion  and  the  abolition  of  slavery. 
This  of  course  could  have  been  foreseen  would  the  result, 
-of  that  illstarred  measure.  It  actually  was  foreseen,  and 
moreover  predicted  by  such  farseeing  men  as  Benton  and 
others  who  resisted  the  2)assagc  of  the  act,  by  all  the  pow- 
er that  reason,  persuasion  and  parliamentary  law  and  tac- 
tics afforded;  but  their  efforts  were  jjowerless. 

The  syi-en,  *'  Squatter  Sovereignty  "  sang  too  charmingly 
to  be  resisted  by  y,  great  many  well-meaning  and  patriotic- 
men  ;  and  the  bill  was  passed  under  the  delusion  that  set- 
tlement "would  be  suffered  to  go  on  quietly  and  peaceably 
until  State  governments  were  to  be  organized  in  these  ter- 
ritories.    But  the  march  of  events  from  thebeft-inning  dis- 
pelled  that  delusion,  if  any  one  ever  seriously  entertained 
it.    Emigrant  societies  were  organized  in  most  of  the  north- 
ern Stiites,  especially  in  Massachusetts,  to  settle  these  terri- 
tories, particularly  Ivansas.      These,  though  artizans  and 
.agriculturists,  and  coming  with  the  intention  of  becoming 
bona  fide  settlers,  came  also  prepared  to  meet  any  emer- 
-gencies  that  might  arise,  hence  the  "  Sharp's  rifles  "  of  which 
weheardsomu-ch,  atthattime.    The  extremists  of  the  South 
in  the  Gulf  States,  and  even  in  Georgia  and  other  southern 
States,   organized  military  companies  and  sent  them  to 
Kansas,  not  for  settlement,  but  to  prevent  settlement  from 
the  northern  States.    A  conflict  at  once  ensued,  which  ended 
in  a  repulse  of  the  southern  military  organizations,  who  i*e- 
treatedover  the  border,  and  there  in  conjunction  with  bad 
men  in  Missouri,  organized  marauding  and  murdering  expe- 
ditions into  the  territory.     One  of  these  expeditions  sacked 
and  burnt  Lawrence.     The  earliest  colony  from  Massachu- 
setts had  selected  Lawrence  iiHupomt  d'appui  for  the  settlers 
and  had  built  the  Eldridge  House,  then  the  most  expensive 
and  commodious  building  in  Kansas,  for  the  accommoda- 
tion of  strangers  and  settlers  while  looking  out  suitable  lo- 


28  OVER   THE  PLAINS  AND  0\  THE  MOUNTAINS. 

(•alitics  tor  settlement.  The  marauders  came  and  first  bat-- 
lored  it  down  with  cannon  and  then  burnt  it.  It  was  imme- 
diately rebuilt,  larger  and  more  costly  than  before.  It  was^ 
a  second  time  burnt  in  the  murderous  expedition  of  the 
infamous  Quantrell.  Phenix  like,  it  again  arose  from  its 
ashes  enlarged  and  beautiticd  ;  and  is  thiis  day  one  of  the 
best  appointed  hotels  in  the  West. 

Lawrence  has  many  large  and  elegant  buildings  for  bus- 
iness purposes,  especially  on  Massachusetts  street.     Many 
of  the   private    residences    arc    expensive   and  elegant; 
especially   on   the    knolls  that  surround  the   city   to  the 
west  and  south,  which  are  covered  with  most  costly  and! 
tasty  mansions  surrounded  by  lawns,  shrubbery  and  flower - 
]dot.s.       The  churches  and  ])ublic  schools  ai-o  also  large, , 
tasteful  and  expensive.     The  State  University  on  Mount 
Oread  overlooking  the  city  from  the  southwest,  is  one  of  the- 
most  eleirant  buildinf^s  in  the  West.     It  will  cost  when  com- 
])lctcd  nearly  half  a  million,  of  which  amount  Lawrencocon- 
tributed  8300,000.     It  is  built  of  a  yellow  arcnacious  magnc- 
Kian  limestone  half  dressed  ;  is  four  stories  high,  surmounted 
liy  two  quadrangular  domes  and  two  turrets.     Its  style  of 
artichitecture  is  the  "  Rcnnaissancc.  " 

Lawrence  has  a  population  of  10,000,  and  is  rapidly  in- 
creasing in  all  the  elements  of  wealth  and  prosperity 
There  are  no  idle  heads  nor  liands  hero. 


OVER  THE  PLAINS   AND  ON  TUE  MOUNTAINS.  29 


CHAPTER  in. 

At  eight  o'clock  on  the  following  mornino-,  Juno  8th,  we 
found  carriages  ready  to  convey  u.s  to  the  depot  oftlie 
Leavenworth,  Lawrence  and  Galveston  Ilailroad,  to  take 
an  excursion  to  the  end  of  the  road,  at  Thayer,  one  hun- 
dred and  eight  miles  south  of  this  point.*  Wo  were  in- 
debted for  this  pleasure  to  Maj.  Charles  B.  Peck,  the  Gen- 
eral Freight  Agent  of  the  road,  who  had  a  special  train 
provided  for  the  occasion.  Nearl}'  all  the  members  of  the 
Kansas  State  Agricultural  Society  had  joined  us  now,  to 
accompany  us  to  Colorado.  For  the  day's  excursion,  some 
one  hundred  of  the  leading  citizens  of  Lawrence  joined  us, 
headed  by  Maj'or  Thatcher.  Everything  being  in  readi- 
ness we  started  towards  the  sunny  South.  A  heavy  storm 
cloud  seemed  to  lay  across  our  way  some  fifty .  or  sixty 
miles  distant.  Otherwise  the  sky  was  perfectly  clear,  but 
the  weather  was  sweltering,  and  the  sun  shone  bright  and 
intensel}'  hot.  The  day  previous  a  heavy  rain  had  passed 
over  this  section,  and  there  was,  therefore,  no  dust  to 
annoy  us,  but  Nature  seemed  to  have  put  on  her  gayest 
attire  and  brightest  smile  to  greet  and  welcome  us.  To 
our  right,  and  beyond  Lawrence,  lay  Mount  Oread, 
•crowned  by  the  superb  edifice  of  the  State  University. 
The  elevation  slopes  gently  southward  to  the  AYakarusu. 
some  five  miles  distant.  For  several  miles  the  sides  and 
summit  of  this  beautiful  swell  are  covered  with  stately 
mansions,  the  sumptuous  suburban  residences  of  the  wealthy 
business  men  of  the  city,  surrounded  by  lawns,  shrubber}-, 
fruit  trees,  flower-plots,  etc.     Soon  theye  are  replaced  by 


*Sinro  then  it  has  been  completed  to  Coffeyville,  on  the  Virdigris 
iriver,  where  it  enters  the  Indian  Territory. 


30  OVER    THE  PLAINS  AND  ON  THE  MOUNTAINS. 

the  neat  and  tidy  farm  hoiinc,  surrounded  by  fieldfi  and' 
meadows  in  the  liighest  tilth,  and  threaded  by  o.sage- 
oran<xe  hedges.  The  AVakarusa  hero  runs  about  duo  cast^ 
and  its  immediate  valley  or  bottom  is  heavily  timbered. 
To  the  southeast,  beyond  the  Wakarusa,  is  an  elevation 
c-alled  Blue  Mountain,  a  heavily  timbered  liill,  rising  per- 
haps six  hundred  feet  above  the  i)lain.  It  is  a  beautiful 
feature  in  the  landscape. 

Passing  beyond  the  timber  skirting  the  last  named 
fitream,  the  road  enters  u  beautiful  rolling  prairie,  studded 
over  with  fine  farms,  but  there  are  still  immense  stretchea 
of  unbroken  prairie,  covered  with  a  luxuriant  growth  of 
wild  grass,  and  at  this  season,  enameled  with  wild  flow- 
ers of  every  hue.  The  only  new  species  I  noticed,  except  an- 
^E.<fcleinas  with  immense  dull  gi-ocnish  yellow  blooms,  was 
the  (Enothcra  Speciosa,  generally  called  by  flourista 
Godetia.  Of  these  there  Avere  two  varieties;  one,  the 
*  most  abundant,  was  a  puro  white  with  a  purple  center  j 
the  other  was  a  delicate  pink.  Sometimes  both  varieties 
were  intermixed  in  large  beds.  Then,  with  their  largo 
blooms  expanding  fully  two  and  a  half  inches,  they  weroa 
most  charming  sight.  For  some  eighteen  miles,  the  roll- 
ing prairie  Avas  destitute  of  trees,  except  the  orchards  or 
the  farmers  and  the  young  groves  they  have  planted.  As 
wc  approach  the  Marias  des  Cygnes,  a  tributary  of  the- 
(Jsage,  Avo  enter  a  forest  sometimes  consisting  of  rich  bot- 
tom land,  and  then  again  of  rocky  hills.  The  stream  runs 
southeastAvardly,  and  Avas  much  SAvollcn  by  the  heavy 
rain  on  the  prcA'ious  CA'ening. 

Alter  emerging  from  the  forest,  a  fcAV  miles  brought  us 
to  the  city  of  OttaAva,  the  county  seat  of  Franklin  county. 
1  should  estimate  its  ])Opulation  bctAveen  three  and  four- 
thousand.  It  has  a  bank,  soA-eral  good  hotels,  churches 
and  fine  publi(r  schools.  Its  principal  street  is  substantially 
built  uj)  Avith  brick  and  stone  houses.  It  has  A'arious 
kinds  of  manufactories,  and  is  a  prosperous  tOAVJi,  OttuAva 
University    is  located    here,  and  for  several  years  was 


OVER  THE  PLAINS  AND  ON  THE  MOUNTAINS.       31 

opened  and  conducted  with  encouraging  prospects  of  suo- 
ee68.  But  its  endowment  failed  on  account  of  Home  defect  in 
a  treaty  with  the  Osage  Indians,  by  which  it  was  to  receive 
a  donation  of  lands.  It  is  now  closed.  The  site  of  the 
town  is  rather  level,  but  the  surrounding  country  is  one  of 
the  richest  in  the  State.  I  should  have  stated  that  mid- 
way between  Lawrence  and  Ottawa  is  Baldwin,  the  site  of 
Baker  University,  but  of  whose  history  and  endowment  I 
could  learn  nothing. 

Proceeding  southward  we  passed  several  small  streams 
swollen  by  the  late  rains,  and  skirted  by  belts  of  timber. 
Otherwise  the  country  is  rolling  prairie  until  you  reach 
the  Pottawattamie  river,  flowing  northeastwardly  into  the 
Marias  des  Cygnes.     Hero  we  again  encountered  heavy 
timber;   that   on    the    bluffs   generally  hardwood,    and 
amongst  that  in  the  bottoms  many  large  trees  of  black 
walnut.     FivQ  or  six  miles  further  brought  us  to  Garnott, 
the  county  seat  of  Anderson  county,  on  a  considerable 
swell.      The    soil    is    pretty  much  the  same  as  around" 
Ottawa,  but  the  country  is  more  rolling,  and  on  the  side- 
hills  and  ravines  I  saw,  in  many  places,  ledges  of  mag- 
nesian  limestone  cropping  out.      This  is  characteristic  of 
the  country  from  this  onward  as  far  south  as  we  went. 
I  should  judge  that  such  portions  as  have  only  a  few  feet 
of  soil  overlieing  this  bed  of  magnesian  limestone,  are  not 
well  calculated  to  withstand  droughts.    Beyond  Garnott, 
at  a  distance  of  some  six  miles,  we  crossed  Cedar  Creek,  a 
tributary  of  the  Pottawattamie,  flowing  about  northeast. 
On  the  bluffs  I  saw  a  few  cedars,  and  again  the  black  wal- 
nut in   the  bottom.     Beyond  this    the    horizon  encloses- 
often  but  one  expanse  of  prairie,  which  is,  however,  occa- 
sionally interrupted  by  a  distant  line  of  timber  to  the 
southeast,  fringing  Deer  Creek.     The  country  now  slopes 
gently  southwest  to  the  Kansas  Neosho  river,  and  a  belt 
of  timber  lining  that  stream,  occasionally  looms  up  in  the 
western  horizon.     As  we  approach  Deer  Creek,  the  belt  of 
forest  we  had    occasional  glimpses  of  in  the   southeast,. 


'S2  OVER  THE  PLAINS  AND  ON  THE  MOUNTAINS. 

<T0i*8es  the  path  of  the  railroad,  and  ■svc  soon  crossed  the 
■creek,  a  rocky  turbulent  stream,  swollen  and   overflowing 
ita  bottom  by  a  heavy  i-aiii  in  the  morning,  which  fell  from 
the  cloud  we  saw  as  ^ve  left  Lawrence.     Deer  Creek  runs 
west  and  falls  into  the  Xeosho  river,  a  short  distance  Avest. 
"We  were  soon  at  lola,  the  county  seat  of  Allen  count}-. 
The  road  now  heads  do%yn  the  valley  of  the  Xeosho,  the 
meandering  of  which  stream  brings  it  sometimes  in  sight. 
'The  prairie  hence  from  Garnett  "was  often  yellow  with  the 
Coreopsis  Druvwwndii,  and  occasionally  a  stray  jjlant  of  the 
beautiful  Coreopsis  Tinctoria.     A  run  of  some  ten  miles 
further  brought  us  to  Humboldt,  where  an  excellent  din- 
ner, esi^ecially  prepared  lor  us,  was  ready.    It  was  soon 
despatched,  and  tlu-n  came  the  inevitable  postprandium 
speeches,  which  I  escaped  by  taking  to  the  prairies.    I 
■went  to  the  southwest  of  the  town,  which  stands  upon  a 
considerable  swell.     To  the  west,  about  a  mile  off,  flowed 
the  Xeosho,  having  a  general  course  nearly  southeast.    Its 
banks  are  heavily  lined  with  timber,  and  its  course  can  be 
traced  by  it  for  many  miles  from  the  nortliwest  to  the 
southeast.    All  the  country  east  of  it  as  far  as  could  be 
seen,  was  a  treeless  expanse  of  prairie,  but  diversified  by 
many  newly  opened  farms,  or  by  an  immigrant's  new 
cabin.     The  flora  on  the  prairie  I  found  the  same  as  those 
.already  named,  excepting  a  single  plant  of  the  CalUrrhoe 
Verticellata,   which   we  found    abundant  on    tht   plains 
farther  west  the  following  day,  expanding  its  purple-red 
blooms,  often  two  inches  in  diameter.     As  the  depot  is 
east  of  the  town,  I  made  a  detour  around  the  latter  to  the 
south.     The  prairie  was  full  of  lupines,  larkspurs,  pen- 
stcmous,  Godetias  and  flowers  already  mentioned,  but  with 
the  exception  of  the  CoUirrJioe  I  found  nothing  except  a 
species  of  Sedum  that  was  new  to  me.     It  was  past  bloom- 
ing, and  as  I  lost  the  specimen  I  put  up  for  my  herbarium, 
I  have  beeii  unable  to  determine  its  species. 

Jieturning  to  the  depot  I  found  quite  a  number  of  the 
.company   there    already,  waiting  the    arrival    of   those 


OVER   THE  PLAIN8  AND  ON  THE  MOUNTAINS.  33 

detuiued  by  the  orutors.  When  they  finally  arrived,  it 
■was  announced  that  the  day  was  too  far  spent  to  go  to 
Thayer,  twenty-two  miles  farther  8outh,  the  then  terminiLs 
of  the  road.  This  I  regretted,  not  that  I  probably  lost 
seeing  any  thing  new,  but  I  failed  seeing  a  historical  char- 
acter, the  veritable  Eli  Thayer,  -who,  as  a  member  of  Con- 
gress from  Massachusetts,  in  times  anterior  to  the  Rebel- 
lion,  used  to  read  with  such  gusto, the  "Book  of  MartjTS," 
as  ho  called  the  census  of  1850,  to  the  "  fire-eaters. "  He 
also  Avas  the  organizing  spirit  of  the  emigrant  associations 
formed  in  the  Northern  States  to  settle  Kansas  in  the 
days  of  ''Border  Ruffianism."  A  retrospect  of  the  coun- 
try passed  over  during  the  day,  has  satisfied  me  that  a 
sight  of  it  is  sufficient  to  convince  any  reasonable  mind, 
that  it  is  one  of  the  most  beautiful  and  the  richest  agricul- 
tural disiricts  in  the  world.  The  only  drawback  that  I 
could  discover,  and  which  I  have  already  mentioned,  is  the 
fact  that  the  Avhole  country  is  underlaid  at  no  great  depth 
with  a  bed  of  magncsian  limestone,  which  often  crops  out 
on  the  banks  of  ravines,  or  the  sides  of  gentle  slopes.  In 
case  of  droughts,  which,  however,  have  not  occurred  for 
several  years,  and  it  is  contended  that  the  climate  has 
undergone  an  amelioration  in  this  respect,  land  so  situa- 
ted cannot  withstand  them  well.  To  this  may  be  added 
the  scarcity  of  fuel.  For,  although  the  bottoms  along  the 
streams  arc  generally  well  timbered,  yet  there  are  long 
reaches  of  prairie,  twenty  and  even  thirty  miles  across, 
entirely  destitute  of  trees.  Dense  settlement  of  the  coun- 
try cannot  tiike  place  until  a  substitute  for  wood  as  fuel 
will  be  found ;  and  this  substitute  must  be  found  in  an 
abundant  and  cheap  supply  of  coal. 

From  indications  it  is  fair  to  infer  that  it  will  not  be 
long  before  an  ample  supply  of  excellent  coal  will  be  foimd 
throughout  all  this  part  of  Kansas.  At  Carbondale,  a  min- 
ing town  some  25  miles  northwest  of  Ottowa,  on  the  To- 
peka  and  Santa  Fe  railroad,  there  are  immense  fields  of 
excellent  coal.  Again,  at  Osage  City  on  the  same  railroad, 
3 


34       OVKR  THE  PLAINS  AXD  ON  TUE  MOUNTAINS. 

about  30  miles  due  west  from  Ottowa,  a  bed  of  coal  is 
worked,  which  is  said  to  equal  in  quality  the  two  best  in  the 
Mississippi  Valley.  Coal  of  a  good  quality  is  also  mined 
at  Ottowa  and  at  Thayer,  in  Xeosho  county.  At  lola 
there  is  boring  going  on  with  a  view  of  striking  the  vein 
which  is  supposed  to  underlie  the  whole  country. 

In  all  its  aspects  the  country  passed  over  to-day  indicates 
recent  settlement.  Xeither  farms,  residences  nor  bams, 
have  as  yet  assumed  that  solidity  and  2">ermanence  which 
mjirk  those  in  the  northern  part  of  the  State.  There  the 
original  cabin  and  cottage  have  given  place  to  the  neat 
substiintial  and  commodious  farmhouse.  But  here  evident- 
ly time  enough  has  not  yet  elapsed  to  eflf'ect  such  great 
and  permanent  changes,  i  called  the  attention  of  some 
I>awrence  friends  accompanying  us,  to  this  difference,  and 
asked  lor  an  explanation,  since  there  evidently  was  na 
diflference  in  the  productive  capacity  of  the  soil.  I  then 
learned  that  the  whole  country  south  of  Ottowa  had  been 
an  Indian  Reservation,  and  that  only  some  six  years  have 
••lapsed  since  the  extinguishment  of  the  Indian  title.  T 
also  learned  there  was  no  government  land  to  be  entered 
in  f?outhea««tern  Kansas,  excepting  in  the  extreme  south- 
ern tier  of  counties  on  the  Indian  Territory. 

This  railroad  however  has  lands  located  in  Anderson, 
Allen,  Xeosho  and  Labette  counties,  which  they  are  offer- 
ing for  sale  at  from  four  to  ten  dollars  jicr  acre  on  a  cred- 
it of  seven  years  at  7  per  cent  interest.  L.inds  contiguous 
to  the  road  held  by  individuals,  can  bo  bought  from  eight  to 
fifty  dollars  per  acre,  according  to  loc^ility,  or  the  amount 
and  character  of  the  improvements  thereon.  As  in  the 
northern  part  of  the  State  so  here  the  church  and  the 
8choolhouso  are  conspicuous  objects  in  all  the  towns,  vil- 
lages and  settlements,  a  sure  index  of  the  character  of  the 
people  and  of  its  dominant  ideas.  As  already  intimated 
the  surface  of  the  country  is  less  diversified  by  hill  and 
dale  than  that  in  northern  Kansas.  The  swells  are  so  gen- 
tle, and  the  elevation  so  moderate,  that  they  cannot  as- 


OVER    TIIK  PLAINS  AND  ON  THE  MOUNTAINS.  35 

pire  to  the  dignity  of  bcinf^  called  liills;  wliile  in  northern 
Kansas  the  elevations  are  eon.siderable,  and  the  slopes  gen- 
erally abrupt.  Tho  conformation  of  the  surface  therefore 
gives  "wido  alluvial  bottoms  to  all  the  southern  rivers, 
which  are  admirably  adapted  for  corn,  -while  tho  uplands 
are  particularly  well  adapted  for  sninll  grain.  Tho  wheat- 
fields  passed  on  the  route  to-da^',  were  not  only  riper  on 
the  swells,  but  far  less  aifocted  bv  rust  on  the  blade  than 
those  on  the  bottoms. 

Tho  return  trip  was  not  marked  I»y  any  incident  of  note, 
except  that  we  encountered  a  small  thunder-shower  south 
of  Otto wa.  On  reaching  Lawrence  we  found  a  large  num- 
ber of  cai'riages  waiting  to  give  us  a  drive  through  and 
around  tho  city.  I  took  a  seat  in  that  belonging  to 
Hayor  Thatcher,  driven  by  his  son,  a  lad  of  some  sixteen 
summers.  Passing  around  the  soutliorn  suburbs  and  west- 
ward until  wo  reached  tho  hill  designated  as  Mount  Oread, 
we  were  di-ivcn  northward  on  the  street  that  lines  its  side 
at  some  elevation  above  the  plaiji  below.  This  street  is 
lined  by  tasty  suburban  residences,  surrounded  by  shrub- 
bery, lawns,  winding  waj^s,  ornamented  with  the  choicest 
flowers.  To  the  noi'th  Mount  Oread  terminates  beforo  it 
reaches  tho  Kaw  in  a  well  and  prettily  rounded  hill,  with 
a  tolerable  steep  slope.  We  now  drove  westwardly  until 
attaining  tho  summit,  and  then  southward  till  we  reached 
tho  front  of  the  State  University  Avhero  we  were  addressed 
by  Maycn*  Thatcher  in  a  very  neat  and  pertinent  S])eech. 
From  this  point  the  view  is  very  tine.  To  tho  north  and 
northeast  is  the  Kaw,  a  beautiful  limpid  river,  whoso 
course  the  eye  CAn  follow  for  many  miles  down  its  valley. 
Between  you  and  it  lies  the  city  of  Lawrence,  containing  a 
population  of  some  12000,  with  its  twenty  churches,  mag- 
nificent public  schoolhouses,  hotels,  banks  and  other  public 
and  private  buildings.  There  also  is  the  bi'idgo  spanning 
the  Kaw  which  connects  the  northern  suburb  where  tho 
depot  of  the  Kansas  Pacific  railroad  is.  A  few  jioints 
south  of  east  is  Blue  Mountain,  a  high  knoll  of  but  limited 


36  OVKR  THK  PLAINS    AND  ON  THE  MOrNTAINS. 

breadth,  which  defleets  tho  Wtikurusa  to  the  north  into  the 
Kaw  .some  six  miles  below  the  city.  To  tho  south  and 
aoiuhea.st  is  a  campaign  country,  covered  with  fine  farm?* 
and  orchards,  as  far  as  the  eye  can  roach.  Through  the 
centre  of  this  can^paign  runs  the  Walcarusa.  Westward 
is  a  succession  of  rolling  hills,  and  iiorthw(\st  is  the  wide 
alluvial  bottom  of  the  Kaw  through  which  its  serj^entine 
coui"se  can  be  tracbd  for  miles. 

Jlemountinir  our  carriai^es  we  were  driven  throu2;h  some 
of  the  i)rinci])al  streets  of  the  city,  and  finally  through 
^[assachusetts  street,  its  Broadway,  to  the  Eldridgo 
House, 

AVo  liave  now  been  three  days  in  Kansas,  during  which 
time  we  have  traveled  about  five  liundred  miles,  and  seen 
the  country  from  north  to  south,  and  from  east  to  west ;  to  be 
sure  in  the  brightest  season  of  the  year,  the  flowery  month 
ofJunejand  we  have  met  and  become  acquainted  with  its 
people  and  enjoyed  their  hospitalities.  Ixctracing,  men- 
tivlly,  the  incidents  and  scenes  of  these  throe  days,  they 
appear  more  like  a  lovely  dream  than  a  reality.  A  richer 
and  a  more  beautiful  country  the  sun  does  not  look  down 
upon  in  its  course  around  the  globe;  and  in  time  it  must 
become  thescatof  wealth  and  social  and  intellectual  power 
and  influence,  that  will  make  themselves  felt  oven  beyond 
the  limits  of  our  own  nation.  But  a  few  years  since  and  it 
was  the  pasture  field  of  tho  buffalo,  and  tho  hunting 
ground  of  wild,  i-oaming,  hunting  savage  tribes  of  the 
plains.  Then  came  the  white  man,  and  with  him  the 
fierce  passions  engendered  in  sectional  strife,  who  made 
this  their  first  battlefield.  No  crime  that  blackens  the 
criminal  code,  but  was  enacted  here,  and  that  by  people  of 
the  same  lineage,  speaking  the  same  language,  and  hailing 
from  the  same  nation.  Fraud,  violence,  robbery,  arson 
and  murder  were  rife  here,  and  roamed  over  and  deso- 
lated the  land  unchecked  by  the  civil  authority,  because 
of  the  imbecility,  or  rather  servility  of  both  territorial  and 
national  governments.     But  the  men  who  came  here  to  set- 


OVER  THE  PLAINS    AND  ON  THE  MOUNTAINS.  37 

:]o,  )?loovl  their  ground  manfully,  and  maintained  their 
position  against  unequal  numbers  backed,  as  far  as  they 
dared,  by  both  civil  authorities.  Then  to  become  an  emi- 
grant to,  and  settle  in  Kansas,  was  an  adventure  that 
required  courage,  firmness  and  rosohition.  Xone  but  men 
of  positive  and  strong  convictions  dared  do  it;  because  it 
required  taking  their  lives  in  their  hands,  Avith  the  resolu- 
vion  to  die  for  ])rinciples  if  it  became  necessary.  It  was 
a  winnowing  process  by  which  the  dross  was  separated 
in  the  States  from  the  ^luro  metal,  and  by  which  cowards, 
neutrals,  comj)romisors  and  tcmi^orizers  were  completely 
eliminated.  Those  that  then  came,  learned  tho  important 
lesson  which  has  been,  and  is,  tho  secret  of  their  success, 
prosperity  and  unexamjiled  progress,  mainly  that  of  unit}'" 
of  purpose  and  concentration  of  efforts.  Whatever  may 
have  been,  or  is  their  object,  whether  to  repel  the  aggres- 
sor, to  organize  industr}',  to  establish  schools  and  other 
institutions  of  learning,  to  build  churches,  and  push  for- 
ward enterprises  of  internal  improvement,  there  has  been 
no  holding  back,  no  division  of  council,  no  lukewarmness, 
but  the  united  energy  of  tho  whole  community  has  been, 
and  is,  always  concentrated  in  tho  effort,  acting  as  though 
it  had  but  a  single  thought,  and  controlled  by  but  one 
mind.  In  Austria  or  Eussia,  such  unity  of  action  would  be 
effected  by  the  use  of  despotic  power,  but  hei-e  it  is  by  in- 
telligence and  enlightened  pul)lic  opinion.  The  result  is 
that  in  no  State  has  there  been  such  i-apid  material  pro- 
gress, and  in  so  short  a  time  such  immense  sti-ides  in  all 
the  elements  of  prosperity  and  greatness.  In  one  decade 
they  have  done  more  towards  the  development  of  the 
natural  resources  of  the  State,  to  organize  its  industrial, 
social,  moral,  religious  and  intellectual  interests,  than  is 
effected  by  the  more  apathetic  and  sluggish  communities 
of  the  older  States  in  a  half  century.  During  the  border 
troubles  it  was  customary  to  speak  of  Bleeding  Kansas. " 
It  is  true  she  bled  some,  but  with  the  light  of  to-day,  we 
cannot  but  regard  it  to  have  been  good  for  her  health,  and 


38  OVER  TllK  PLAINS   AND  UN  THE  MOUNTAINS. 

promotive  of  her  constitutional  vigor.  It  kept  away  from 
her  the  timid,  the  unenlightened,  the  thriftless  and  shift- 
less j  in  laet  ail  tliose  without  enterprise  and  determina- 
tion ol'])urpose.  ilenee,  in  her  social  m(n-ements,  and  in- 
dustrial enterprises,  Kansas  had  nothing  to  clog  the  march 
ofevents,  nor  any  ilead  weight  to  carry.  Such  material 
as  that  composing  this  infant  Stale  cannot  be  collected 
anywhere  without  developing  its  inherent  tendency  of 
pushing  things  that  ])romote  the  interests  and  pros- 
perity of  communities.  Hence  originated  that  spirit  of 
progress,  ami  the  adoption  of  those  far-seeing  and  wise 
measures  that  liavo  placed  her  in  the  front  rank  of  States 
in  the  organization  of  her  material,  social  ami  intellectual 
interests. 

Our  experience  amongst  them  has  convinced  us  that 
they  are  as  kind,  generous  and  hosjMtahle,  as  they  are 
brave,  daring  and  resolute.  In  ever^'thing  they  do  there 
is  tin- ring  of  the  pure  noble  metal.  Be  it  doing  acts  of 
generosity  and  kindness,  of  extending  hospitality  to  stran- 
gers, l)e  it  meeting  the  common  enemy  in  a  death  strug- 
gle, or  in  attacking  and  overcoming  the  obstacles  of 
Xature,  the  innate  character  of  the  people  is  never  obscured 
or  hidden.  It  is  the  embodiment  of  heart,  will  and  pur- 
pose. Su<h  is  a  true  picture  of  Kansas  and  her  people  to- 
day, which  must  forever  leave  its  impression  on  her 
destin\. 


OVEa  THE  PLAINS   AND  ON  TUE  MOUNTAINS,  39 


CHAPTER  IV'. 

It  was  one  hour  past  midnight  on  the  morning  of  Juno 
■Oth  when  we  left,  not  without  ren:;ret,  tlio  beautiful  and 
enterprising  city  of  Lawrence,  the  hospitalities  of  whose 
jrenerous  and  liberal  minded  citizens  we  had  shared  for 
the  last  two  days.  Once  on  board  of  the  western  bound 
train  of  the  Kansas  Pacific  railroad,  our  faces  as  well  a-* 
our  thoughts  were  tuiMied  to  the  great  objective  point  of 
our  excursion,  the  Rocky  Mountains.  Day  overtook  us  at 
Wamega,  104  miles  west  of  the  State  line,  the  initial  point 
of  the  railroad,  whence  distance  is  measured  west  to  Don- 
ver.  The  character  of  the  countrv,  both  extrinsic  and 
intrinsic,  aj)peared  about  the  same  as  at  Lawrence.  There 
were  bold  hills  and  gentle  slopes,  boundless  prairies  and 
hill  encircled  valleys,  through  the  latter  generally  a  line 
of  straggling  trees  mark  the  windings  of  a  small  brook. 
The  soil  is  a  dark  mould,  and  where  cultivated,  givefi 
promise  of  an  abundant  harvest.  On  all  sides  were  evi- 
dences that  the  country  is  fast  settling  up  with  immi- 
grant's. 

New  and  unpainted  cottages  or  the  board  shanty  meet 
the  eye  in  all  directions,  as  far  as  sight  can  pierce  over 
the  plain.  Some  of  these  are  yet  surrounded  Avith  the 
primitive  prairies,  yet  man}'  stand  within  or  beside  the 
newly  broken  sod,  but  all  are  unenclosed.  Often  corn 
has  been  dropped  in  tlie  furrow  while  breaking  up  tho 
prairie,  and  where  so,  it  is  u]>  with  a  tolerable  fair  stand 
live  to  eit'ht  inches  above  the  sod.  This  often  yields  a 
third  or  a  fourth  of  a  crop,  with  no  other  labor  than  drop- 
ping it  in  the  furrow  while  bi'Caking  up  the  prairie  sod. 

TOie  older  settlements  exhibit  unmistakable  evidence  of 


40  OYKK  THE  PLAINS   AND  ON  TIIK  MOUNTAINS. 

that  Intel ligoiH'O,  industry  and  enterprise,  and  consequent- 
ly thrill  so  ehai-aeteriHtic  of  the  people  ot'Kansas.  Neat- 
er homen,  better  cultivated  farms,  and  more  promising  and 
liner  eroj)s,  arc  hard  to  find,  even  in  the  best  cultivated 
and  richest  ])art.s  of  the  older  States.  Tho  aspect  of  the 
wliole  seems  as  though  tho  people  thought  there  wero  no 
enjoyments  nor  pleasures  equal  to  the  ondoarmouts  of  tidy,, 
comfortable  and  pleasant  homes. 

The  preceding  day  "we  had  seen  the  wheat  fields  from 
Lawrence  to  Humboldt,  along  the  Leavenworth,  Lawrence 
and  Ci'alveston  railroad.  At  Garnett  and  lola  there  was 
often  much  disj)arity  in  tho  growing  crop.  Fields  almost 
adjacent,  with  apparently  no  difference  in  soil,  nor  choice 
of  location,  differed  so  nmch  in  appearance  that  tho  own- 
ers of  the  poor  fields  must  have  made  some  great  mistake 
or  committed  a  grievous  fault  citlu-r  in  the  time  or  man- 
ner in  which  they  put  the  crop  in,  or  in  the  quality  of  the 
seed  sown.  IBo  tho  causo  what  it  may,  one  field  promising 
28  to  80  bushels  of  wheat  per  acre  was  fully  ripe  for  har- 
vest, untouched  l)y  blight,  while  an  adjacent  one,  thin? 
green  and  rust  eaten,  would  not  yield  one-half  that  quan- 
tity of  a  very  inferior  quality.  Along  the  line  of  tho  Kan- 
sas Pacific  railroad  so  far,  although  there  were  coiisidera- 
p]e  ditTerences  in  fields,  there  was  nowhere  such  a  contrast 
as  wc  had  observed  in  Southern  Kansas.  Corn  from 
Wamega  as  far  Avest  as  we  found  it  planted,  was  very 
promising,  of  a  dark  rich  green,  since  there  had  been 
through  this  section  abundant  rains,  and  most  of  the  fields 
were  in  the  highest  state  of  tiltli  with  not  a  weed  to  be 
seen. 

Manhattan  lies  above  and  iiuniediately  west  of  tho  junc- 
tion of  tho  Blue  wliose  upper  valley,  some  seventy  miles 
north  from  its  mouth,  we  had  traversed  three  days  before 
as  far  as  Watcrville.  Here  is  locuited  the  Kansas  State 
Agrieultural  College  and  the  experimental  farm.  Accord- 
ing to  prc-aiTangement  we  were  to  have  stopped  hero  and 
Kjtcnd  a  day  in  looking  over  the  fai-ni  :ind  studying  its  sys- 


OVER.  rilU  PLAIfis   AXB  ON  THE  MOUNTAINS.  41 

t«m  and  that  of  the  organization  of  the  college.  The  col- 
lege and  farm  are  located  some  two  and  a  half  miles 
north  Avest  of  the  town.  But  finding  that  if  we  did  so,  our 
ti-ain  arrangements  would  be  interfered  -with,  avo  kept  on 
without  Btopping,  "with  tlie  intention  to  defer  our  visit  un- 
til our  return. 

The  railroad  runs  up  the  valley  of  the  Kaw,  or  Kansas. 
as  it  is  sometimes  called,  a  beautiful  transparent  stream 
with  a  rapid  current.  It  is  sometimes  flanked  by  low 
hills,  Avhich  now  approach  and  then  recede  imtil  lost  from 
view  beneath  the  distant  horizen.  The  banks  of  the  riv- 
•  ■r  are  sparsely  lined  with  trees,  but  Avith  little  under- 
groAvth.  OtherAvise  there  is  no  timber  except  along  the 
banks  of  some  affluent  Avhose  devious  Avindiugs  can  be 
traced  over  the  plains  until  lost  in  the  distance,  ,by  the^ 
Jine  of  trees  that  deck  its  banks. 

The  same  species  of  mimosa  observed  yesterday  in 
Southern  and  the  day  before  in  Northern  Kansas,  the 
Schrankia  unci nata  ot^  the  botanists,  Avas  still  plenty,  and. 
occasionally  the  white  and  purple  Oenothera,  Avas  still  plen- 
ty. A  ncAV  comer,  however,  made  its  appearance  this 
morning,  the  Avhite  Mexican  prickly  popi)y,  (Argemone 
qrandiflora)  groAving  luxuriantly  on  the  sides  of  the  ex- 
cavations and  embankments  of  the  railroad.  Its  enor- 
mous Avhite  floAvers,  often  five  inches  in  diameter,  Avcre  the 
admiration  of  the  Avhole  party. 

Some  fifteen  miles  above  Manhattan  is  to  be  seen  on 
the  south  side  of  the  KaAV  the  old  capitol  building  noAV 
occupied  if  at  all  by  hogs  and  other  unclean  beasts.  Paw- 
nee was  to  have  been  the  capital  of  the  nascent  State ;  here 
the  appropriation  made  by  Congress  for  erecting  Territori- 
al buildings  was  expended,  and  here  Governor  Reeder  con- 
vened the  first  Territorial  Legislature,  in  midAvinter  on  a 
bleak  prairie  one  hundred  and  tAventy-fiA^e  miles  Avest  of 
any  civilized  habitation.  This  Avas  too  much  for  the  ^n'ac- 
tical  good  sense  of  the  unsophisticated  early  settlers,  and 
they  rebelled  against  it.      Al\er  many    failures  Avith   re- 


42  OVKR    TUK  PL.\INti  AND  ON  THE  MOUNTAINS. 

• 

newod  and  onergotit'  effortH,  the  ambulatory  Lugislatui'o 
mouinvhiK'  mooting;  at  other  point.^,  the  oapital  question 
was  .soitled  by  seloetinjjc  Topoka,  aiul  the  glory  of  Pawnee 
departed  and  with  it  visions  of  vahiablo  corner  lots,  etc. 
On  the  surrounding  prairies  there  is  now  nothing  to  be 
rsecn  but  droves  of  Texas  cattle,  remarka])le  only  for  their 
enormous  uncoutli  horns.  Such  was  the  case  on  the 
morning  wo  passed  there. 

Fort  llilev  is  situated  near  the  junction  of  the  Republi- 
can Fork;  and  some  three  miles  beyond  is  Junction  City. 
A  good  idea  of  the  topographical  sloping  of  Central  and 
Northern  Kansas  may  be  formed  by  studying  it.s  river  sys- 
tem proper,  which  converges  here.  8outhwest<'rn  Kan- 
sas, nearly  (me-fourth  part  of  the  State,  belongs  to  another 
.system,  and  is  drained  and  traversed  by  the  Arkansas,  and 
the  Cimmaron.  But  the  system  which  forms  the  Kaw  has 
its  sources  west  in  Colorado  and  north  in  Xobraska.  The 
Blue  rises  in  Nebraska  near  the  channel  of  the  Platte,  and 
flows  generally  south,  entering  the  Ivaw  at  Manhattan. 
It  is  said  to  atford  the  best  water  powoi-  in  the  State 
through  its  entire  length.  It  certainly  does  so  in  the 
northern  tier  of  counties,  as  we  saw  three  days  before  at 
Irving,  Blue  li;vpids  and  Waterville.  The  Republican 
forms  a  junction  with  the  Smoky  Hill  Kork  just  belovr 
Junction  City.  The  Ropublican  has  its  source  in  south- 
western Nebraska  and  northeastern  Colorado,  flowing  at 
first  cast,  then  southeast  until  it  joins  its  waters  with  those 
of  the  Smoky  llill,  forming  the  Kansas  or  Kaw.  Thirty 
miles  or  so  west,  Solom(jn's  Fork,  rising  in  eastern  Color- 
ado, running  at  first  northeast  into  Nebraska  and  then 
.southeast,  joins  the  Smoky  ilill.  Thirteen  miles  higher 
up,  th<'  SiiKiky  Hill  i*  joined  by  the  Salina,  which  also 
rises  in  eastern  Colorado,  'i'he  Smoky  Hill  itself  rises  in 
ea.storn  Colorado,  and  flows  a  little  north  of  east  in  tlie 
general  course.  The  lino  of  railroad  is  up  the  valley  of 
the  Smoky  Ilill,  but  so  level  and  expanded  is  its  ba.sin 
that  the  river  is  s^ddom  in  sight,  flowing  fur  to  the   south. 


OVER    TIIK  PLAI.Vti  AND  ON'  THE  MOUNTAINS.  43 

Some  twenty-tive  miles  above  Junction  in  Abilene,  163 
miles  ^ve8tof  the  State  line.  Being  the  point  forshipping- 
Texas  cattb;,  it  is  quite  a  business  place,  but  tlie  concen- 
trution  «f  tbe  cattle  trade  here  retards  the  growth,  settle- 
ment and  improvement  of  the  rich  tigrieultural  country 
surrounding  it. 

At  Abilene  we  saw  the  first  subterranean  habitiitions, 
which  become  more  common  further  west.  An  excava- 
tion i3  made  some  ten  feet  wide,  twenty  feet  long  and  six 
or  seven  feet  deep.  Timbers  are  put  up  like  i-afters  over 
the  excavation,  and  the  whole  is  covered  with  prairie 
sod.  Such  were  the  houses  of  the  railroad  laborers  when 
the  road  was  built,  and  such  still  are  the  luibitations  of 
thousands  of  employees  of  the  road,  and  of  the  poor  on 
the  plains  from  Abilene  to  Denver.  An  advance  on  thi.s 
is  the  adobe,  of  which  we  saw  several  in  the  extreme 
western  part  of  Kansas. 

The  first  village  beyond  Abilene  is  Solomon,  at  the 
junction  of  that  stream,  and  next  is  Salina,  named  so  for 
the  same  reason.  Salina  is  a  thriving  village,  and  the 
best  wheat  fields  seen  yet  were  in  the  neighborhood. 
It  is  a '' meal  station,"  consequently  we  took  breakfiist 
here — a  very  good  one — for  which  the  iisual  ])rice  along 
the  line,  one  dollar,  was  charged. 

Eeyon<l  Salina  the  appearance  of  the  country  changes. 
The  hills,  on  the  north  side  especially,  become  higher  and 
steeper,  with  occasionally  a  rock  cap.  Some  twenty 
miles  above  Salina,  (ju  the  highest  hill,  there  is  either  a 
natural  or  artificial  stone  column,  about  fifteen  feet  high. 
4ind  ■[)erha})s  three  feet  in  diameter.  Some  ])ef)2)le  say 
Fremont  set  it  up  as  a  landmark  to  guide  the  wanderers 
of  the  prairies;  others,  that  it  is  an  Indian  monument. 
It  is  a  conspicuous  object  for  miles  ai'ound.  i^avaria  i.^ 
the  next  Village  above  Salina.  A  good  deal  of  newly 
broken  prairie,  and  of  now  cabins  were  seen  here.  The 
town  seems  to  be  principally  settled  by  Germans.  Brook- 
villo,  at  the  two  hundredth  mile  post,   is  the  next  town. 


44  UVKR  TIIK  ri^\INS    AND  ON  THE  MOUNTAINS. 

ami  ha^  a  very  thrifty  ajipcaraiice.      The  machine  shops; 
of  the  Kansas  I'acilie  railroad  arc  located  hero.     Between 
Rock  Sprint^  and  Kim  Creek,  (207  miles  -west  of  the  State 
line)  we  saw  the  lirst  prairie  doiX  villa^^o.     It  is,  however,, 
a  libel  to  call  this  little  fdldw,  the  Cijnoimjn  Ludocicianus,, 
a  dojx.     There  is  nothing   in   his  looks,   manners,   h&bits, 
disposition  or  nature  that  is  at  all  currish.     V>'hy,  to  con- 
vince you  <d'  his   vprightnei^^   he   straightens  himself  and 
"-tandinj:  on    Ins   hind   legs  looks  you  in  the  lace   Avithout 
winking;  as  much  as  to  say  "you  may  call  me  a  dog,  but 
you  cannot  accuse  me   of  crookedness   in   my  Avays,  for- 
measure  my  acts  by  what  rule  j^ou  may,  physically  or- 
morally,  they  will  be  found  pei-pendicular  to  any  base-- 
you  la}-  down." 

His  defumci's  even  admit  iliat  he  lives  in  amity  and 
peace  with  the  jackass-rabbil,  the  burrowing  ])i-airio  owl, 
:ind  even  with  the  malicious  i-attlesnake,  shiiring  Avith 
ihem  his  house  and  bed.  This  ought  to  be  suflicient  evi- 
dence that  he  is  not  a  dog,  not  even  of  "the  dog-in-the- 
manger"  sort.  Moreover,  in  a  life-time  he  never  tastes 
meat,  but  being  a  true  herbivoi-i-,  he  lives  upon  the  lus- 
cious blades  and  roots  of  the  I)utralo  grass.  He  indeed' 
resembles  a  fox  squirrel,  1»eing  only  a  little  larger  and 
somev.'hat  yellower,  with  a  short,  black,  straggy-haircd 
tail,  like  the  groundhog  or  Avoodchuck. 

Froni  liock  Creek  to  Fort  Harker,  esjiec-ially  near  Sum^ 
mit  .Siding,  the  bluffs  andbuttes  are  bold  and  picturesque, 
with  ledges  and  crests  of  red  rock.     The  soil  is  very  dark 
and  tlie  subsoil  a  broAvn,  asliy  gray.     At  Fort  Harker  the 
liills  again  assume  their  Avonted  shape  of  gentle  slopes,, 
'lothed  in  tl»e  light  green  of  the  prairies.      Just  beyond 
Fori  llarkci-,  avc  saAV  a  cai-avnn  of  al)Out  thirty  ox-teams,, 
on  th(,ir  Avay  to  Santa  Fe. 

Fort  Harker  lias  an  altitude  of  1,580  feet  above  tidc- 
Avater.  Here  there  is  a  summit,  and  at  EllsAvorth,  five 
miles  beyond,  the  altitude  is  only  1,440  feet.  But  from 
here  to  Gopher,  174  miles  Avest,  the  average  rise  per  mila. 


OVEB   THE  PLAINS  A!VD  ON  THE  MOUNTAINS.  45 

•is  a  fraction  over  ten  feet;  the  altitude  of  the  latter  place 
iboing  y,220  feet  above  tide. 

Ellsworth,  the  limit  of  western  settlement,  is  a  now, 
neat  and  thrifty  villa.ice,  standing  on  the  north  hank  of 
the  Smoky  Hill,  which  here  approaches  close  to  the  road. 
'The  country  is  rolling,  rich  prairie,  but  entirely  treeless, 
oxce]>t  some  straggling  trees  along  the  river  and  creek 
banks.  Here  the  diminutive  (;hurch,  with  a  high,  curi- 
ous-shaped steeple,  arrests  attention.  It  looks  more  like 
a  toy  house  than  anything  else.  We  concluded  it  to  be 
the  famous  "little  church  around  the  corner,"  dispensing 
religious  rites,  privileges,  consolation  and  charities  on  all 
.alike  as  y>oor -SinntTi',  whether  they  claim,  like  the  Phar- 
isees, conventional  respectability  and  righteousness  or 
not.  Seventeen  miles  beyond  Ellsworth  is  Wilson's 
■Creek,  1,586  feet  above  tide  water.  Here  Mr.  Elliot,  the 
Industrial  Agent  of  the  Kansas  Pacific  Kailroad  Com- 
pany, has  located  his  first  experimental  station. 

The  existence  of  this  agency  is  an  historical  sequence 
of  events  that  took  place  more  than  half  a  century  ago: 
When  Missouri  applied  for  admission  into  the  Union,  the- 
same  questions  in  principle,  though  not  in  form,  were 
raised  which  forty  years  later  culminated  in  a  war  that 
terminated  forever  the  existence  of  the  institution  in 
"whose  intei'est  these  questions  -were  raised,  l»y  submitting 
them  to  the  arbitrament  of  the  sword.  It  was  evident 
from  the  heat  and  ardor  with  which  conflicting,  extreme, 
and  at  every  point  antagonistic  views  on  the  conditions 
upon  which  Missouri  was  to  l)e  admitted,  were  i:)resented 
and  urged,  that  an  amicable  compromise  or  an  open  rup- 
ture must  ensue.  Timidity  counseled  compromise;  but 
compromise  upon  anything  actual  was  out  of  the  question ; 
therefore  it  was  made  upon  Avhat  was  only  i^rospcctive. 
The  xminhabited  territory  hence  became  the  matter  of 
compi'omise;  and  to  reconcile  the  extreme  Southern  men 
to  a  compromise,  presented,  urged  and  carried  through 
bv  temporizing  and  timid  men  of  their  own  section,  an  at- 


46  OVER  THE  PL-MNS   AND  ON  THE  MOUNTAINS. 

tempt  was  mado  to  ilcprcciato  the  territory  ia  question. 
Uenco.  while  all  territory  lying  r.orth  of  latitude  36  deg. 
80  niin.  and  west  of  Missouri  was  dedicated  forever  to 
troodom,  thi-  Southern  ]>eoplc  must  be  deluded  with  the 
idea  that  it  was  worthless.  Ilenec  there  eininatcd 
from  thi-  War  J)epartmeut,  then  jiresided  over  by  Mr. 
Calhoun,  an  aspirant  for  the  Presidency,  documents  pur- 
porting to  give  a  topographical  description  of  the  coun- 
try, ami  of  the  nature  of  the  soil  and  climate.  These 
documents  described  the  country  as  worthlesH ;  merely  a 
vast,  arid,  treeless,  rainless  sandy  desert  j  no  springs  nor 
running  brooks,  because  there  was  no  rain  to  supply  them; 
and  so  sandy  that  the  streams  that  flowed  from  the  moun- 
tain;? were  soon  absorbed  on  the  plains. 

Hence  there  appeared  in  our  school  atlases,  for  the  first 
time,  that  myth  the  " Tfreat  American  Desert,"  shaded 
like  the  Sahara  and. other  deserts  to  indicate  sand,  from 
the  Missouri  to  the  mountains  and  south  beyond  the 
Arkansas.  The  settlement  of  Kansas,  up  to  Ellsworth, 
two  liundred  and  twenty-five  miles  west  of  Missouri,  has 
dispelled  this  illusion  as  far  as  the  eastern  half  of  the  ter- 
ritory is  concerned ;  but  our  geographers  still  represent 
the  -western  half  as  the  Great  Desert,  or  the  Desert  omit- 
ting the  sandy  shading. 

The  Kansas  Pacific  railroad  company  having  a  large 
land  grant,  Tthc  alternate,  or  more  specifically  all  the  odd 
numbered  sections  for  ten  miles  on  each  side  of  the  road,) 
from  Congress  given  to  aid  in  constructing  tlie  road,  find  it 
necessaiy  to  disabuse  the  public  mind  afid  root  out  the  geo- 
graphical errors  that  liave  been  inculcated  for  two  genera- 
tions. They  have  adopted  the  truly  logical  "vvay,  which  is 
to  combat  eiTor  by  facts.  Without  facts  and  without  inves- 
tigation, and  merely  npon  the  dictum  of  some  book  com- 
y)iler,  the  jiublic  yet  take  it  for  granted  that  practically,  if  not 
actually,  there  is  a  region  some  three  or  four  lumdrc^d  miles 
wide  in  "Western  Kansas  and  Eastern  Colorado  that  is 
doomed  to  remain  a  desert  and  wilderness  forever;   and 


OVKR   THE  PLAINS  AND  ON  THE  MOUNTAINS.  47" 

that  the  cause  of  this  doom  is  natural  sterility,  imposed  b}"" 
a  sandy  soil  arid  a  rainless  climate.     To  eradicate  the  be- 
lief in  this    sterility,  the  contrary  must  be  shoMii,  and  not 
shown  l>y  arguments,  Init  l>y  facts  which  are  incontestible. 
If  crops  actually  grown  there  show  that  the  soil  is  produc- 
tive, then  it  cannot  be  a  sandy,  sterile  jtlain  ;  and  if  these- 
crops  are  grown  without  irrigation,  then  the  climate  can- 
not be  rainless.     These  ai'O  the  problems  proposed  by  the 
company  to  be  solved  and  demonstrated  by  its  industrial 
agent.     Mr.  Elliot  selected  three  stations — Wilson's  Creek, 
Ellis  and  Pond  Creek — for  his  experiments.     The  distances- 
from    the  State   line,   respectively,  arc  239,  .302  and  425' 
miles,  and  their  elevations  1586,  2019,  3200  feet  above  tho^ 
sea.     East  of  Wilson's  Creek  the  demonstration  of  the  in- 
habitability  and  fertility  of  the  plains  is  une  fait  accompli. 
Up  as   far  as  and  around  Ellsworth,  onl}'  sixteen  miles 
east  of  Wilson's,  the  luxuriant  fields  of  corn  and  the  heavy 
fields  of  Avheat,  yellow  and  ready  for  the  harvest,  without 
any  taint  of  disease,  sufficiently  attest  the  adaptation  of 
the  country  for  yielding  the  heaviest  crops  of  cereals  and 
of  the  best  quality.     But  AVilson's  is  on  a  high  bench,  with 
a  different  soil,  and  with  less  black  loam  than  the  plains 
eastward.     In  fact,  it  is  a  diiferent,  a  cretaceous  forma- 
tion,  reaching  clear  to  the  mountains.     Here,  then,  the 
test  was  to  be  made  whether  this  formation  was  deficient 
in  the  elements  of  fertility,  and  if  not,  then  under  proper 
conditions  the  whole  plain  Avould  be  productive.     Late  in 
November  wheat,  rye  and  barley  were  sown,  and  the  sea- 
son being  unusuall}'*  dry,  the  prospect  of  success  was  not 
considered    t<>    be  very    flattering.     The   area  soAvn   was 
about  one  acre  and  a  half  of  each  kind.     AVhen  we  were 
there  (on  the  0th  of  June)  the  whole  crop  would  be  ripe 
within  ten  days.     The  stand,  the  bight,  and  the  general 
appearance  of  the  crop  were  equal  to  the  best  crops  under 
similar  circurjistanccs  in  Missouri   or  Illinois,  and   in  the 
rich  yellow  coloring  of  the  straw  and  freedom  from  disease^ 
iJir  suj)erior.     Of  the  crop  at  Ellis  we  could  not  judge^ 


48  OVKR  THE  PLAINS    AND  ON  THE  MOUNTADs'S. 

i^ince  Home  nine  days  before  our  arrival  a  hailHtorm  had 
passed  over,  literally  inowinir  it  ilown  and  .sweeping  it 
from  the  field.  At  Pond  Creek  mijre  than  a  thousand  feet 
liiijher,  the  crop  was  very  promisini;; — not  so  forward,  hut 
of  the  healthiest  kiiid  of  deep  green.  On  our  retur?i,  ten 
tlays  later,  the  barley  was  here  turning  yellow  and  tht' 
car.s  very  heavy.  As  far  as  the  experiments  of  the  present 
i\nd  past  season  are  concerned,  they  liave  been  eminently 
.successful.  The  winter  grains  have  not  only  succeeded, 
hut  succeeded  most  admirably,  and  the  corn  is  promising. 
The  only  question,  then,  is,  was  the  present  an  ordinary 
or  an  exceptional  season  ?  This  it  is  impossible  for  me  to 
decide;  and  further  experiment  and  observation  maybe 
nece.s.sary  to  determine  and  settle  this  point. 

It  will  be  remembered  that  in  Missouri  the  spring  had 
been  unusually  dry.  When  we  left  St.  Louis  in  early 
June,  the  sjiring  crops  were  suffering  for  want  of  rain,  and 
Ave  found  them  still  so  when  we  returned  on  the  twentieth, 
though  there  had  been  a  few  rcfresliing  showers  in  the 
intervening  time.  West  on  the  nortliern  frontier  of  Kan- 
•sas,  as  far  as  we  went,  some  100  miles  northwest  of  Atchi- 
son, there  had  been  abundant  rains.  The  same  remark 
may  be  made  as  disclosed  by  our  trip  to  near  the  southern 
border.  On  the  outward  trip,  west  us  far  as  daylight  per- 
mitted us  to  observe,  namely,  to  Fort  AVallace,  420  miles 
west  of  the  State  line,  and  on  our  return  from  Aroya,  511 
Triilcs,  there  were  evidences  of  not  only  abundant  but 
<iuite  recent  rains;  the  excavations  along  the  line  and  the 
buffalo  wallows  on  the  prairie  were  pools  of  water.  At 
Denver,  12S  mjles  further  west,  there  had  been  no  rain 
Avhcn  we  left.  Xow,  these  rains  reaching  away  into  east- 
ern Colorado,  and  within  150  miles  of  the  mountains,  may 
have  been  exceptional  and  not  the  rule;  but  if  they  are  as 
abundant  and  frequent  e\'ery  season  as  this,  the  crops  will 
suffer  less  from  drought  on  the  plains  than  they  have  in 
.«outhern  and  eastern  Missouri  this  year. 

3fr.  Elliot  also  experimented  in  planting  trees,  both  do- 


OVER  THIp  PLAINS    AND  ON  THK  MOUNTAINS.  40 

ciduouH  and  overgroon.  C)ftlie  furnier  we  saw  maplcf^. 
elms,  iiiliinthus,  ohosnut,  European  larch,  etc.,  which  ail 
appeared  to  do  well.  Tlio  larch  had  started  finely  and 
jj remised  well,  Imt  my  experience  with  it  is  that  appear- 
ances are  deceptive,  and  disappointment  almost  certain, 
being  so  liable'  to  kill  off  dui-ing  the  summer  heats.  1  think 
it  will  be  found  to  do  well  on  the  hii^her,  well  irriirated 
and  cooler  plains  of  (.'olorado  ;  but  on  the  plains  it  should 
be  planted  sjiaringly  until  experiment  has  demonstrated 
that  it  can  be  done  successfully. 

The  seedling  oaks  and  walnuts  looked  thrifty,  and  of 
their  success  there  can  be  no  doubt.  Of  evergreens  there 
were  plaiUed  the  Scotch  and  the  Austrian  pine  and  the 
Norwa}^  spruce.  The  latter  so  far  appeared  the  most 
promising.  It  must  also  be  stated  that  the  planting  was 
not  done  under  the  most  favorable  circumstances.  It  was 
done  by  the  employees  of  the  road,  none  of  whom,  perhaps, 
had  ever  set  or  seen  a  tree  set  before  in  their  lives.  The 
success  in  tree  raising  is  of  the  liighest  importance,  since 
incontestible  facts  prove  that  of  all  agencies  within  the 
control  of  man  for  the  amelioration  of  climate,  that  of  cov- 
ering the  earth  with  forests  is  the  most  effective.  Of  the 
progressive  improvement  in  climate  on  the  plains  and  the 
mountains,  and  the  probable  cause,  we  may  speak  hereaf- 
ter. The  supply  of  water  is  also  a  material  question  bear- 
ing upon  the  future  settlement  of  the  plains.  There  are 
more  or  less  springs,  but  often  at  long  intervals,  through- 
out the  plains  ;  and  then  besides  the  living  streams,  such 
as  the  Solomon,  Salina,  Smoky  Hill,  Republican  and  their 
affluents,  thei-e  are  many  *'  droyas,''  that  I's  beds  of  tempora- 
ry streams  with  pools  of  water,  which  answer  for  stock 
purposes. 

Suppose  that  the  fall  from  the  clouds  is  insufficient  to  fill 
the  cisterns,  the  experience  of  the  railroad  company  is 
that  abundant  and  apparently  inexhaustible  supplies  of 
water  can  be  obtained  in  sinking  wells  of  moderate  depths. 
In  sinking  these  w^ells  no  blasting  is  nccessarv.  What  the 
4  .     ' 


W  OVKR  THE  PLAINS    ANU  K.N  TIIK  MOINTAISS. 

ajiproxiinaU-  ilo)ttli  may  ho  to  whicli  Ihc  wells  have  to  he- 
•«unk  will  ilejK'ml  ui)<)ii  the  elevation  of  the  surface.  The 
i-ailroad  cuiu})any  sank  these  wells  where  necessary,  most 
^'enerally  on  an  elevation,  since  their  road  is  on  a  divide. 
Their  wells  ninj;e  from  48  to  130  feet  in  d('j)th.  T'pon 
lower  ^^rounds  the  depth  would  ]»rol>ahly  he  much  less. 

Kossil   is  a  station    villai>;e,  in  and  ai'ound    which    some 
thirtv   lamilies    from    Wisconsin  are  settled.     Thev  were^ 
very  jtoor  when  they  came  here,  soon   after  the  road  was 
oj»ened.     An  emjdoyee  of  the  road  told  )ne  the  (•omj)any 
had  hrought   them   here  at  a  mere   nominal   charge  from 
St.  Louis  and  set  them  down  here,  knowing  they  never 
couM  get   away,      fhey  have  comfortable  cotftiges   now, 
arc  lu'eaking  up  consideraide  prairie,  and  have  some  cat- 
tle.    I  <onversed   with  several  of  them,  both  male  and  fe- 
mah'.      They  aj)peareil  «juite  intelligent  and  declared,  not- 
withstanding the  ]>rivations,  hardshi])S  and  ti-ials  they  had 
to  enduiv  after  coming  here,  they  are   now  well    ]»leased 
and  (jiiite  .satisfied  with  their  situation.     Some  of  the  vil- 
lage boys  had  a  horned  frog  they  had  caught,  which  the^^ 
]»resented  to   Mr.  (Jeo.  T.  Anthony,  the  editor  of  tlic  Kan- 
sas/a  r//((r.      ILere  we  .saw  the  first  l»uf!alo,  but  it  was  a 
calf,  tied  with  a  long  roj»e,  and  Avas  quite  tame.     We  could 
no  longer  doultt   that   we   were  within   the   I'angc  of  the 
buffalo,  not  because  Ave  had  seen  the  calf,  but  all  along  the 
railroad    and   ovei-  the   jilains,  tlicii-   dead   carcases    were 
strewn.     This  continued  i'oi-  200  mil('>-  and    how    iiiucli  fur- 
ther I  c;iiiMot  say,  since,  us  long  as  there  wa<  siiflicjentday- 
lighl  the  .same  evi<lences  ofw^nton  slaughter  and  in.sen.sate 
'Icstruction  were  visible.     This  is  a  lit  subject  foi-tlu^  atten- 
tion of  the  Jliimune   Society,      i  sujijiose    I  saw    at  least  a 
thoiusund  carcases  lying  as  they  fell,  killed  mei'cly  to  afford 
amusement  to  the  soldiers  of  Forts  Hays,  AVallace,  etc.    This 
is  outrageous, and  the  strong  arm  of  tliegovei-nmentshoidd 
be  exerted  to  put  a  stop  to  it.    These  animals  are  and  will  be 
an  imi»ortant  item  to  ]»romote  the  settlement  of  the  j)lain.s,, 
furnishing  an  abundant  and  most  delicious  su]»]>ly  of  meat  to 


OVER  TIIK  PLAINS    AND  ON  THK  .MOUNTAINS.  51 

the  pioneers.  It  is  now  served  up  at  ail  the  meal  stations 
of  the  road,  and  is  more  relished  by  the  hungry  passengers 
than  the  best  beef.  Besides,  our  Indian  difficulties  always 
involve  the  wholesale  slaughter  and  Avanton  destruction 
of  the  buffalo  bv  the  whites.  Let  the  fjovernment  rec- 
tify  and  prevent  these  outrages  in  the  future,  and  let  these 
thoughtless  men  be  made  to  feel  that  humanity  and  civ- 
ilization revolt  against  such  wantonness  and  cruelty. 

At  Fossil  there  is  a  most  beautiful  white  limestone  in 
great  abundance,  admirably  adapted  for  building  purposes. 
Immense  quantities  of  it  are  tpuirried  and  8hi])ped  from 
here  and  other  stations  along  the  road.  Further  Avest, 
near  Wallace,  there  are  softer  limestones,  some  of 
beautifully  variegated  colors,  so  soft  as  to  be  as  easily 
gawed  as  wood  into  blocks;  yet  when  dried  will  bear  the 
weight  of  large  buildings.  iS'ear  Junction  City  a  similar 
soil  magnesian  limestone,  called  "Junction  City  marble," 
is  found.  Blocks  from  eight  to  twelve  tons  Aveight  are 
quarried  and  saAved,  like  Avood,  into  any  shape  desired. 
It  is  of  a  delicate  cream  color.  Most  of  the  houses  in 
Junction  City  are  built  of  it;  and  so  is  the  magnificent 
State  capitol,  at  Topeka.  Its  durability  has  been  Avell 
tested  for  years  at  the  gOA'^emment  buildings  at  Fort 
Riley. 

We  are  noAV  fully  on  the  jilains.  The  shoi't  buffalo 
grass  has  supplanted  the  taller.grasses,  common  tothe  prai- 
ries in  all  the  Western  States.  This  is  a  peculiar  grass,  not 
as  lone:  as,  but  standing  fulh'  as  thick  as  the  hair  on  a 
buffalo's  back.  Whether  green  or  dried  into  a  natural 
hay,  it  is  equally  Avell  relished  by  wild  and  tame  animals, 
and  possesses  most  remarkable  nutricious  properties.  It 
noAA''  Avould  haA'e  complete  possession  of  the  plains  Avhero 
Ave  are,  Avere  it  not  for  the  Patagonian  plantain  (Planfago 
Patagonica), 'which  OA'ertops  it  and  giA'es  to  the  plain  a 
bluish-gray  tint.  This  plantain  is  common  to  both  North 
and  South  America,  growing  east  of  the  Andes  and  Rocky 
Mountains,  from  the    Straits  of  Magellan,  to   the  Arctic 


52  OVER  THK  PLAINS    AM>  ON'  THB  MOUNTAINS. 

Sea.  The  Horn  have  als«)  become  fewer  and  scarcer. 
Tljere  are  none  to  be  seen,  except  the  white  Mexican 
poppy  aloni;  the  excuvatioii-s  of  the  road,  and  on  the  prai- 
ries occa.sionally  a  Jlalrantru/n  Coccmeuin,  also  the  beauti- 
ful Gaillaniia  Picta  and  hirge  plots  of  the  Callirrhoe  Pedata 
and  CiiUirrhce  VerticiUata. 

On  and  on  we  go  to  the  westward,  passing  a  road  sta- 
tion every  twelve  or  fifteen  miles,  Walker,  Hays,  Ellis, 
Oixallah,  Park's  Fort,  Cayote,  Buflalo,  (rrinnel,  ]Monument, 
Gojihei-,  Sheridan,  Wallace,  Eagle  Tail,  Monotony,  etc. 
•Otherwise  the  scene  is  as  monotonous  as  that  viewed  from 
a  shij)  on  the  ocean.  Varied,  however,  Avith  the  constantly 
occurring  prairie  dog  villages.  It  was  really  anxusing  to 
see  the  dogs(?)  scampering  home,  big  and  little,  upon  the 
approach  of  the  train.  Instantly  they  would  disajipear  in 
their  holes,  excepting  perhaps  a  veteran  Avhosc  curiosity 
was  greater  than  his  sense  of  fear.  JIaving  arrived  on 
his  hillock,  he  sets  himself  upright,  often  raising  on  his 
hind  legs,  and  stands  unmoved  like  a  statue,  looking  at 
the  passing  train.  Some  of  the  jiassengers  in  a  forward 
cair  woulil  empty  their  revolvers  at  them,  but  without 
effect,  unless  the  ball  struck  near  tlie  hillock,  when  in  a 
twinkle  he  would  disappear  in  his  hole. 

On  the  hillocks  were  frequently  seen  the  burrowing 
owl,  the  Anthene  Jlypugoea  of  ornitholigists. 

We  saw  the  first  antelopes  near  Ogallah.  As  soon  as 
they  were  discovered  the  shout  of  *'  Antelopes  "  burst  from 
every  car  in  the  train,  and  all  eyes  were  strained  in  a 
soutliwest  direction  to  catch  a  glimpse  of  the  novel  sight. 
Tliere,  sure  enough,  at  perhaps  three  hundred  yard-s  dis- 
tant, were  two  fine  ones,  fleeting  with  the  swiftness  of  the 
wind  over  the  plain.  As  they  seemed  bewildered,  and 
taking  a  direction  almost  parallel  to  the  line  of  the  road, 
they  were  some  time  in  siglit.  Jlai-rlly  had  this  excite- 
ment subsided  before  the  shout  of  "  Jiuff'alo "  broke  out, 
with  fingers  pointing  to  the  north.     Away  off  at  a  great 


OVER  TFIE  PLAINS    AND  ON  THE  MOUNTAINS.  53 

distance  Avore  three  dark  moving  objects,  Avhich  we  were 
told  were  fstraiTL^lers  from  the  lujiiu  herd. 

A  jackass-rubhit,  tlie  Xr/>>/.5  To^vnse nd< i,  y,\-ou\d  now  ajid 
then  start  up  and  scud  away.  He  is  as  hirge  as  a  four- 
month  ohl  fawn,  willi  tlie  cohir  and  imiuenso  ears  of  a 
jackass.  Sometimes  a  very  large  old  fellow,  accustomed 
to  the  cars,  would  sit  on  a  prairie  dog's  hillock  surrounded 
b^^  the  dogs,  and  look  unfoiicernedly  at  the  passing  train 
within  tifty  yards  of  it.  The  antcloj^cs  became  so  numer- 
ous as  not  to  attract  niuch  attention,  and  twice  or  three 
times  more  we  had  views  of  a  fow  buffaloes  at  a  distance. 
;N ear  dark  there  was  a  shout  of ''coyote,"  and  a  prairie 
wolf,  as  he  is  called  in  t'.io  AVestcru  States  (canis  latrans) 
was  seen  tiying  his  "  level  best"  to  get  out  of  the  way  of 
the  "  tire  horse. " 

Towards  eveiung  the  aspect  of  the  plain  changed.  The 
"mesquite,"  a  kind  of  vernal  grahs,  was  supplanting  the 
Patagonian  plantain.  It  is  about  four  inches  high,  heads 
up  like  beardless  barley,  which  arc  filled  v*ith  a  grainlike 
chess,  and  as  it  was  past  maturity-,  it  Avas  diy  and  dead, 
giving  the  plain,  notwithstanding  its  wooly  coat  of  bluish 
gray,  green  buffalo  grass,  a  sere  appearance.  At  AVallace 
we  had  fine  buffalo  steak  for  supper,  and  it  was  after  sim- 
set  that  Ave  resumed  our  journey. 

Conversing  Avith  Major  Reddington,  the  pa^^naster  on 
this  end  of  the  road,  about  the  meteorology  and  climate  of 
this  section  of  the  Great  Plains,  I  received  much  valuable 
information  respecting  the  periodic  winds  that  SAveo^)  at 
regular  seasons  over  this  A^ast  region.  I  may  hereafter 
embody  these  facts,  combining  them  Avith  my  OAvn  obser- 
A'ations,  into  regular  form,  and  explain  their  Uiavs  and  me- 
teor<dogical  relations  to  the  climate  of  the  Valley  of  the 
Mississippi. 

Inquiring  of  the  Major  hoAv  long  this  Avearisome  monot- 
ony of  plain  and  sky  Avould  continue,  I  received  the  Avel- 
corae  information  that  fifty  miles  west  from  Avhere  wo 


64  OVKK  TllK  PLAINS  AN'I)  ON  TlIK    MOUNTAINS. 

tlion  AViM-t.',  at  First  View  Stiition,  wo   would  got   Ihc  first 
^liiup>o  at  tho  mouutiiins. 

It  was  now  getting  thirlc,  and  a  thick  grayish  haze  had 
settled  on  tho  ])lain;  it  was  therefore  evident  that  we 
could  nut  enjoy  tho  "first  view,  "  even  if  at  the  station. 
The  loneliness  of  the  landscape,  the  somhro  ajipearance  of 
the  sUy,  shut  out  hy  the  thick  haze,  seemed  to  grow  0]>- 
j)res.sive  and  to  excite  a  vague,  indefinite  feeling  of  anxi- 
oty,  akin  to  fear.  1  looked  out,  the  pall  of  darkness  liad 
settled  on  tho  i»lain.  In  Iront  was  our  engine,  like  a  mon- 
ster, hreathing  smoke  and  llanio,  giving  a  lurid  lint  to  tho 
thick  haze,  but  all  else  was  impenetrable  gloom  and  dark- 
ness. J  I'eit  as  though  we  had  left  the  coasts  of  light,  and 
3Iilton's  desci-iptioii  of  the  arch  fiend'a  flight  through  tho 
domains  of  Chaos  vividlv  recurred  to  me: 

"  On  lie  fares,  through  a  dark, 
IlHmitable  ocean,  without  bound, 
"NVithmit  dimension ;  a  vast  vacuity,  where 
Length,  breadth,  hight,  time  and  place  are  lost.  " 

Our  weary  company  became  silent,  and  one  by  one  fell 
into  tlie  embrace  of 

"  Tired  nature'^)  sweet  restorer, 
Balm}-  sleep." 

And  so  I  close  for  the  jiresent,  leaving  us  asleep  in  the 
'wi<h',  wide  jtlains. 


.OVK.l    THk",  IM.AINS  AND  t>.V  TUK  MOUNTAINS.  55 


CHAPTER  Y. 

Our  last  chapter    closed    "svith    tlu^    retirenient    of  our 
party  to  re^it,  aiul  lel't  u.s  asleep   on  the  va.st  plains,  iii. 
charge  of  the  fier}'  steed,  who,  sure  footed  and  fleet,  arid 
undaunted  by  storm  and  darkness,  was,  with  unflagging 
speed,  carrying  us  forward  to  our  destination.     Day  over- 
took us  at  Agate,  572  miles  beyond  the  State  line  of  Mis- 
souri, and  57  miles  east  of  Denvei-.     Refreshed  by  a  gooii 
rest,  I  was  up  at  dawn  to  catch  a  glimpse  of  the  great 
mountains,  with  whose  description  by  Lewis  and  Clark  ] 
"was  charmed  and  captivated  in  early  boyhood.     But  tlu> 
same  impenetrable  haze  of  the    preceding    evening  still 
rested  on  the  plains  and  closed  in  the  view  on  all  sides. 
The  morning  was  cold,  and  frost  Avas  observable  on  the 
plains,  which  looked  more  sere  and  desolate  than  before, 
since  the  dry ''mesquite  grass"  was  more  a])undant,  an«i 
entirely  hid  the  coat  of  buflalo  grass  underneath.     But  we 
were  either  running  out  of  the  haze,  or  else  the  rising  sun 
was  dispersing  it,  for  it  was  growing  thinner  and  more 
j)enetrable  to  the  sight.     Ah,  there!  the   outline  of  some- 
thing dark  as  a  st<^)rm  cloud  appeared  for  an  instant  and 
then  vanished.     Was  it  fancy,  or  was   it  reality?     Anon, 
and  the  same  reappeared,  this  time  like  a  series  of  black 
clouds,  but  hazy,  and  of  no  definite  outline.      Again   tliey 
vanish  and  leave  me  in  doubt.     I  hesitsited  making  the 
assertion  that  1  had  caught  a  glimpse  of  the  object  that   I 
had  a  life-long  desire  to  see.     I  looked  doubtfully  at  Mr>*. 
T.  who  had  been  looking  out  for  the  same  object  on  the 
opposite  side  of  the  cars.     She   beckoned   me   and   whis- 
])ere(l,  '•  T  believe  T  caught  several  glimpses  of  the   moun- 
tains through  the  fog."     I  replied  I  thought  I  had  too, 


56       OVER  THE  PLAINS  AND  ON  THK  MOUNTAINS. 

bnt  was  not  quite  certain.  Looking  out  airain,  ii  a  mo- 
ment tlu'V  roa{)jK'are(l,  tliis  time  quite  di.slinct}  a:i(l  in- 
•^tantly  a  shout  arose:  "The  mountains  I "  "the  moun- 
tains I  "  tliat  awoke  every  sleeper  in  the  party. 

In  litteen  minutes  more  we  liacl  run  clean  out  of  the 
haze  into  an  atmosphere  of  most  crystalline  transparency. 
There  lay  exposed  to  full  view  along  the  western  horizoa 
TWO  liundred  and  fifty  miles,  at  least,  of  the  greatest,  long- 
est, and  most  remarkaMo  mountain  chain  in  the  world, 
strctcliing  from  Terra  del  Fuego  to  13chring's  Straits,  a 
distance  of  some  11,000  miles,  and  containing  more  of  the 
jirecious  metals  than  the  whole  Avorld  besides.  There 
they  lay,  sombre  as  cast  iron,  peak  behind  peak,  duplicate 
and  conduplicate,  culminating  in  the  far  distance  into 
-nowy  heads,  ])eering  over  and  dominating  the  whole. 
My  observatioiis  on  the  plains  had  already  eatisfied  me  that 
in  no  jiarticular  whatever,  either  of  general  outline,  for- 
mation, soil,  climate,  jiroductions  or  meteorology,  was  the 
West  a  counterpart  of  the  East;  and  that  from  an  eastern 
standpoint,  neither  the  appearance,  character  nor  condi- 
tions of  the  "West  could  be  conceived  or  understood.  From 
<-vcn  this  distant  point,  no  one  can  lof)k  at  the  mountain 
system,  sjiread  out  like  a  panorama  before  him,  without 
having  the  convicjion  forced  upon  him,  that  though  Xature 
openites  everywhere  bv  the  same  law,  Act  she  never 
lollows  or  passively  copies  the  same  pattern.  In  the  east- 
ern mountains  the  chains  are  jiarallel  and  separated  by 
wide  valleys.  Moreover  they  are  single  and  continuous 
unbroken  it  may  be,  for  fifty  or  a  hundred  miles.  But 
here,  even,  the  mountain  wall  that  rises  almost  ])erpendic- 
ular  to  the  licight  of  two  to  four  thousand  feet,  in  a 
straight  line  along  the  edge  of  the  plain,  like  the  houses, 
t»n  one  side  of  a  street  in  our  large  cities,  is  severed  from 
top  to  bottom,  not  uidike  those  houses,  at  intervals  never 
exceeding  tw<j  thousand  feet.  These  immense  rifts  are, 
the  gulches  and  canyons  through  which  the  mountain 
streams,  liaving  their  s(,>urces  in  the  snowy  range,   fifty 


r 


nVKR  THE    I'LAINS  AND   ON  TIIK  MOUNTAINS.  57 

jniles  distant,  ])Our  their  liinnid,  icy-cold  •water  on  the 
]dains.  These  rifts  do  not  strike  in  u  single  i^orge,  directly 
into  the  heart  of  the  mountains,  liut  hy  more  or  less 
laterals,  honey-eomb  the  whole  system.  Hence,  the 
mountain,  instead  of  a  monotonous  range,  as  in  t!ie  East. 
is  a  system  of  cones,  oftentimes  as  sharp  as  the  teeth  of  a 
saw.  }»rost  appropriately  have  the  Spaniards  called  them 
the  "Sierras;"  that  is,  the  serrated,  or  the  mountains  jag- 
ged like  a  saw.  The  great  departure  I  had  observed  in 
the  far  West,  from  what  Eastern  ex])erience  would  lead  us 
10  infer  were  the  normal  forms  of  Xature,  had  ])reparcd 
me  not  to  expect  seeing  the  familiar  forms  of  the  East  re- 
]>eated,  but  I  was  totally  unprepared,  even  in  imagination^ 
for  the  sublime,  strange,  and  unique  forms  that  greeted 
Triy  sight  that  morning.  East,  and  north  and  souih  lay 
the  ajiparently  illimitable  jdain,  l»ut  to  the  west  there- 
loomed  up  from  below  the  horizon  what  appeared  at  one 
lime  to  have  been  an  ocean  of  molten  iron  lashed  inta 
mountain  waves;  then  instantly  congealed  and  fixed  mo- 
tionless forever.  The  transjiarency  and  rarity  of  the 
air  5,700  feet  above  the  sea,  made  it  impossible  to  judge  of 
their  distance.  They  were  fully  eighty  miles  away,  yet 
every  oive  judging  by  ordinary  experience,  Vv'ould  not 
have  assigned  them  a  distance  beyond  five  miles.  Look- 
ing at  them  in  this  light,  it  required  very  little  aid  from 
ihe  imagination  to  fanc}'  that  we  Avere  ajiproaching;  a 
mighty  city  of  cycloiiean  architecture,  and  that  the  moun- 
tain cones  and  peaks  were  domes  and  minarets,  ])yramids 
and  ])innacles.  Such  reveries  at  least  jxassed  through  mj 
mind  as  I  sat  gazing  at  them  from  the  car  windows,^  which 
were  uninterrupted  till  the  announcement  was  made — 
''Denver."  For  once  I  Avas  disappointed.  It  nuiy  have 
been  from  being  so  suddenly  translated  from  the  regions 
of  fancy  to  those  of  reality ;  or  it  may  liave  been  that  I 
expected  in  a  region  like  this,  where  Nature  operates  on 
so  grand  a  scale,  and  in  so  unique  a  style,  that  man  would 
appreciate  it,  select  Ids  habitation  at  the  choicest  spot,  and 


•'58  OVF.R  TrtE  PLAINS   AND  ON  THE  MOUNTAINS. 

make  liis  works  correspond  to  the  beauty  of  llio  sur- 
roundini^s.  lu'  the  cause  what  it  may,  yet  the  trutli  must 
Ih?  confesseti.  I  never  l>erore  visited  I'oi'  the  iirst  tijuo  any 
placv  that  soenieil  so  tame,  humdrum,  commonplace  ami 
unpootieal  as  Denver  did  that  morninL;-. 

My  sulf^equent  observations  di<l  not  improve  or  modify 
mv  fii'st  imi)ressions.     I  believe  such  is  a  universal  feelin*'- 
•exj)crienced  by  travelers j  and  the  first  thou<>,ht  that  finds 
•expression  is,  the  \von<ler  wiiy  ever  a  city  ^vas  located  in 
rsucli  a  i)oint  as  this.      The  truth  is,  the  selection  of  the 
locality    ^vas    not    determined    cither    from   the   beauty 
or  loveliness   of  the   spot,   from    its   primitive    adapta- 
tion for  a    city,    or    from    its   prospective    development 
for  such,  but  by  accident;  and  like  most  accidents,  it  "was 
ami  is  unfortunate,  both  for  the  commei'cial  interest  oftlu- 
Territory  and  for  ])ul)lic  convenience. 

The  earliest  gold  hunters  that  went  into  the  Territory 
found  a  lew  grains  of  gold  in  the  sandy  bed  of  Cherrv 
Creek,  an  insignificant  stream  that  flows,  when  it  has  any 
water,  from  the  Divide  in  a  northwester!}'  direction  into 
the  Soutli  Platte.  Tiiis  induced  them  to  ])itch  their  tents 
here  and  calling  the  ]>laco  by  the  poetical  name  of 
Auraria.  The  news  of  the  finding  of  gold  hei'e  spread 
like  wii<lfire  over  the  States  as  well  as  over  the  mountains; 
and  it  l)ecamc  the  objective  point  of  gold-hunters  from  the 
States  as  well  as  from  the  mountains  of  New  Mexico. 
This  fact  ma<le  it  a  good  ])oint  to  concentrate  and  distrib- 
ute su))])lies.  Iferc^  the  miner  of  the  mountains  could  go 
an«l  rejtlejiish  his  stores  of  provisions,  supply  himself 
with  tof)ls  and  other  necessaries ;  and  the  adventurers  from 
tho  States,  after  their  long  wanderings  over  the  plains, 
. «ame  Iwre  to  overhaul  and  refit,  and  to  complete  their 
(juttit  for  their  mountain  expedition.  Numerous  stores 
were  opened,  with  full  and  comph'te  assortments  of  min- 
ing implements,  provisions,  groceries  and  other  necessi- 
ties. Although  the  limited  (piantity  of  gold  dust  found  in 
•the  fands  of  ('hcrry  Creek  were  soon  exhausted,  Auraria 


/ 


OVKR   THE  PLAINS  AND  ON  THE  MOT'NTAINS.  59 

-.  Still  flourished  ami  li;ul  become  :i  rosnecttiblo  viliaijc.  It 
still  yielded  gold  to  desperate  adventurers  who  had  large 
stocks  of  supy)lies  to  dispose  of"  and  recklessly  engaged  in 
keeping  u})  the  delusion  abroad  of  the  fabulous  richness 
of  the  mountain  placers.  But  the  bubble  finally  Bui-st, 
and  the  poetical  Auraria,  f  the  golden  land;  shorn  of  its 
glory,  became  Denver,  in  honor  of  Col.  .J.  AV.  Denver,  the 
then  (lovernor  of  Kansas,  in  which  all  this  mountain  re- 
gion was  then  included.  It  is  now  a  city  lighted  with  gas, 
lias  a  branch  mint,  several  banks,  and  some  heavy  com- 
mercial houses.  ]ts  population  is  about  8,000.  Johnny 
has  invaded  it  some.  On  its  business  streets  are  con- 
spicuously displayed  the  signs  of  How  Chong,  Ming  Lee, 
etc.,  announcing  that  washing  and  ironing  are  done  there. 
Besides  there  is  what  is  called  tlic  Chinese  quarter,  near 
the  bridge,  entirely  occupied  by  them.  Like  ancient  Pal- 
myra, the  Thadmor  of  the  Wilderness  in  Israelitish  his- 
tory, Denver  is  a  mere  entrepot  of  commerce,  where  arti- 
cles produced  in  far  sepai\ated  regions,  arc  taken  to  be  ex- 
. changed  and  distributed,  but  where  no  article  of  commer- 
.fial  value  is,  or  ever  can  be,  produced. 

Palmyra,  however,  was  situated  in  a  fertile  oasis  sur- 
rounded hy  shady  palm  trees,  beyond  which  stretched  an 
inhospitable  sandy  desert;  but  Denver  is  situated  on  an 
arid  ])lain,  with  neither  palm  nor  even  the  indigenous 
t'Ottonwood  to  atford  shade  to  the  wearv  ox-teams  that  bv 
, scores  are  daily  arriving  with  wool  from  New  Mexico. 

The  .articles  of  commercial  value  now  furnished,  and 
'Cver  to  be  furnished,  by  Colorado,  are  the  precious  metaU 
•found  in  its  mountains.  The  center  of  its  mineral  dis- 
trict, as  far  as  now  developed,  lies  considerably  to  tht- 
north  of  west  from  Denver.  New  discoveries,  said  to  be 
verj-  rich,  arc  rapidly  making  in  the  northwestern  part  of 
the  territory,  while  no  extension  of  discoveries  or  in  min- 
ing operations  are  being  made  in  the  southwest,  (iulch 
mining  is  not  ])rosecuted  much  in  the  Territory  now,  tor 
-it  is  not  now  and  never  was  j)rotitable  here,  excepting 


GO  dVER    THE  PLAINS  AND  <»N  THE  MOUNTAIN'S. 

within  vorv  narrow  limils.  In  the  lodos,  -rold  is  mostlv 
•ombinotl  with  ])yrites  ofiron.  a  sulphiu'et;  silver  ores  arc 
also  mostly  suliihurets  coniliined  with  baser  inctals,  a.s  cop- 
j)er,  le^iil  and  /inc.  There  can  he  no  eombinations  more 
rofraetory  than  those  of  the  precious  metals  in  this  re- 
i^ion  ;  and  no  ])atent  way  of  extracting  them  has  suece'eded 
in  obtaining  more  than  from  one-quarter  to  one-third  con- 
tained in  the  ore.  (Jradually  all  treatment  of  them  has 
and  is  returning  to  the  old  way  of  smelting,  liegular 
smelting  furnaces  are  now  in  operation  in  all  })arts  of  the 
mountains  where  the  oldest  lodes  are  located,  and  others 
are  being  erected  at  points  convenient  to  the  newly  de- 
veloped mines.  But  the  talk  now  is  of  constructing  nar- 
row gauge  railroads  into  the  mountains  at  various  ])oints. 
As  this  is  said  to  be  entirely  ])racticable,  the  construction 
of  these  roads  is  a  mere  question  of  time.  Then,  if  coal  of 
a  suitable  qiiality  for  smelting  these  ores  exists  at  any 
point  along  the  foot  of  tlie  mountains,  these  ores  will  be- 
brought  there  to  be  reduced.  Geological  explorations 
have  established  the  fact  that  coal  beds  skirt  the  moun- 
tains through  tlic  entire  width  of  the  Territory.  It  is  a 
lich  lignite,  ditrering  much  however  in  quality  at  differ- 
ent jtoints.  In  some  localities  it  is  said  to  be  of  the  best 
quality,  being  a  ])ure  anthracite. 

It  is  not  known  whether  any  coal  exists  atDenver;  but 
]iroV>ably  it  does  at  considerable  depth.  The  location  of 
the  commercial  metropolis  of  this  region  is,  therefore,  still 
an  ojien  question,  to  be  determined  ])y  future  develop- 
ments, with  the  chances  decidedly  against  Denver,  situa- 
ted as  it  is  on  an  arid  plain,  some  eighteen  miles  from  the 
foot  of  the  mountains. 

It  is  situated  on  the  cast  Imnk  of  the  South  Platte,  a. 
bank-full  and  therefore  canal-like  stream  Avhich  licads  in' 
South  Park,  and  when  it  issues  from  the  mountains,  like^ 
all  streams  in  this  region,  strikes  out  on  the  plain  and. 
then  gradually  tends  towards  the  northeast. 

After  spending  the  greater  j»art  of  Satui-day  in  looking 


OVER   THE  PLAINS  AND  ON  THE  MOUNTAINS.  Gl 

fovcr  the  city,  vi.siliii<^  the  United  States  Mint,  scmtiniziii;; 
its  assaying  rooms,  examining  all  its  appointments,  and 
Jooking  through  the  mineralogieal  cabinet,  and  then  tak- 
ing a  walk  down  to  the  bridge,  and  from  it  admiring  the 
limpid  waters  and  beauty  of  the  South  Platte,  rushing 
with  a  fearful  rapidity  j)ast  the  western  portion  of  the 
cit}',  we  concluded  that  we  had  about  "  done  nj) "  Denver, 
and  that  it  would  be  a  decidedly  dull  place  to  spend  Sun- 
day in.  Besides,  a  view  of  the  snowy  range  looked  st> 
■cool,  refreshing  and  inviting,  that  we  could  not  resist  the 
temptation  of  going  there.  Accordingly  our  party  took 
the  evening  train  of  the  Colorado  Central  Eailroad,  for 
Golden  City,  sixteen  miles  distant,  and  near  the  foot  of 
the  mountains,  where  we  arrived  at  half-past  six 
•o'clock. 

The  railroad  runs  up  to  the  mountains  on  the  north 
.-side  of  Clear  Creek,  which,  like  all  the  streams  liere,  is 
brimfull  and  rapid,  running  through  the  plain  like  a  canal. 
Before  reaching  Golden,  the  railroad  runs  close  under  a 
range  of  basaltic  buttes,  jutting  out  on  the  plain  at  right 
rankles  to  the  mountains.  They  are  crested  with  an  nu- 
mense  wall  of  basalt,  rising  perpendicularly  from  one  hun- 
dred to  two  hundred  feet.  This  range  is  shown  in  the 
background  of  the  engraving  of  Castle  Butte,  in  Avhich  th(> 
^appearance  of  the  rock  crest  is  Avell  represented.  Their 
altitude  is  from  six  hundred  to  one  thousand  feet  above 
the  railroad.  They  ai'e  very  bald,  extremely  steep,  rocky 
■and  destitute  of  vegetation,  except  in  places  sparsely  cov- 
ered with  the  short  buffalo  grass  and  a  few  flowers. 

Golden  City  is  cut  in  twain  by  Clear  Creek,  a  large, 
<dashing,  icy  cold  stream,  that  comes  booming  from  the 
mountains;  the  hum  of  w'hose  noisy  waters,  of  an  evening, 
is  a  })erpetual  lullaby  to  the  denizens  of  this  unpreten- 
tious cozy  town,  nestled  so  snugly  on  its  bosom.  It  is 
more  than  a  mile  to  the  mouth  of  the  canyon,  where  the 
strciim  issues  from  the  mountains;  yet  from  the  rarity  of 
..the  atmosphere  (for  Goldonis  5,700.feetabove  tide  water) 


62  oVKll    TIIK  I'l.AINS  ANU  UN  THK  MOr.NTAINS. 

ihc  iii»|>:iiviit  distance  seems  not  to   hv   more    tlian  a  (luar^- 
ter  of  ii  niile.     All  visitors  will  learn,  if  not  otherwise,  by 
painful  exiierienee,  that  distance  in  this  re«:;ion    cannot  be 
measured,  or  even    aiti)n)ximately    •i;uessed    at    l)y    sight.. 
This  peculiarity,  however,  is  not,  as  is  generally  supposed, 
due  to  the  purity,  hut  to  the  raritij  of  the  atmosphere.     Bc- 
sitles  this,  a  <-hange  takes  place  in  the  form  of  the   eye  by 
being  relii-ved  hy  the  altitude  of  so    much   atmosphoric 
pressure.     Several  instances,  illustrating  this  fact,  occurred 
in  «>ur  i)arty.     For  years   they    could    neither   read   itor 
write  without  glasses,  yet  here  they  did   hoth  unaware   of 
the  iiict  until   from   habit,   when   they  got   through,    they 
reached  for  their  glasses.     The  dcceptivenesH  in  regard  to 
distance  led  me  and  others  into  several  awkward   scrapes.. 
One  of  these  occurred  on   th(^   evening  of  our   arrival  at 
GohU-n.      To    understaml    it,    however,   a    topographical 
description  of  the  surrounding  country  is  necessary. 

AVrst   lies  the  rifted   barrier   of  the    liocky    Mountains, 
tiaidving  the  i)lain8  in  a  straight  line  north  and  south  with 
a  nearly  perpendicular  wall.  Irom  tifteen  hiuidred  to   two- 
thousand  feet  high.     The  light    green    of  the   plain   con- 
trasts beautifully  Avith   sombre   brown   of  the   fehlspathio  • 
rocks  of  the  mountain  sides,  or  I  he  dai-k  gri'cn  oft  he  ever- 
•Tcens  with  wliich   the   mountain   sloi>es^    where   not  too- 
steep,  arc  covered.     However  oji  this   plain,  sporatic  iso- 
lated mounts,  or  buttes,  as  they  are  here  called,  have  been 
tlirown  \ip,  mostly  single  cones,   that  stand   on    the  plain 
looking  like  haystacks.     They  are  often  ten  miles  distant 
from  the  mountains,  and  twenty  from  each  othrr,  and  at- 
tain altitude's  from  .")00  to  1,.')00  feet.     They  invariahly  arc 
r'rowne<l  with  massive  columnar  basalt,  rising  jjerpendicu- 
larly  from  the  summit  of  the  cone  to  a  height  of  from  100' 
to  200  h-ct,  while  the  slope  of  the  butte  below    the   crown 
is  regular  but  very  stec]),  say  from  forty-five  to  sixty-five 
<legrce8.     They  also  ditl'ei-  from   the    mountain  spurs   and 
jtraks  in  tliisj  they  arc,  without  exception,  bleak  and  bahl. 
having  no   vegetation   except    a    little    IpuH'alo    grass.     A. 


OVKR   THK  PLAINS  AND  ON  TKK  MOIJNT.MNS. 


as: 


scries  of  these  buttes,  as  jilread^-  stated,  occur  north  ot 
Clear  Creek,  and  flank  the  railroad  up  to  Golden,  when^ 
they  terminate.  Some  of  these,  I  would  judge,  have  aii 
altitude  of  1,200  feet  above  the  adjacent  plain.  South  of 
Clear  Creek  and  east  of  the  main  ])art  of  Golden,  at  a  dis- 
tiincc  of  about  threc-lburths  of  a  mile,  one  of  these  buttos 
rises  to  some  800  feet.  The  basalt,  ci*o\vning  its  top.  ajt- 
]>ears  as  though  it  had  been  ])laned  otf,  and  hiMicc  has 
been  tunned  (Castle  Eutte. 


CASTLE  BUTTE,  AT  GOLDEX. 


Tulpit  Eock,  or  Castb-  Rutte,  is  represented  by  the  ac- 
companying engi-aving.  The  engraving  is  defective  in 
this,  that  it  does  not  show  that  the  out  crop  'of  basalt 
crowning  the  ridge,  behind  the  butte,  is  separated  from  it 
by  Clear  Creek,  through  which  nuis   the   railroad.      The 


64  OVER    TIIK  PLAINS  AN'D  ON  THE  MOUNTArXS. 

view  i  ^  takea  froiu  tlio  hi-ndi  !>  tho  southwest,  three- 
fourths  ot";i  inilo  from  the  hutte;  unci  only  takes  in  a  few 
houses  ii  the  extreme  southeiist  of  the  town. 

Tlio  hoi>i;!it  and  isolated  situation  of  the  butte  was  so 
invitinLC  t!iat  tho  larger  portion  of  our  party  were  tempted 
to  ascend  it  to  see  the  sun  set  beliin<l  the  eternal  snows. 
As  the  distance  seemed  so  short,  and  the  sun  was  still  an 
hour  high,  they  thought  the  thing  was  quite  feasible. 
Some  of  the  citizens  suijijcsted  that  the  time  was  rathci- 
short,  and  cautioned  them  that  distances  wero  very  decc})- 
tivc  here,  but  as  they  sawthcm  l)ent  on  the  achievement, 
they  pointed  out  the  only  practicable  way  to  reac'i  the 
summit. 

AVell,  to  cxperienco  a  new  sensation,  a  number,  both  of 
ladies  and  gentlemen,  started  off  f  ;r  Castlo  Butte,  while, 

-accompanied  by  several  ladies  and  gentlemen,  I  ascended 
a  bench,  or  terrace,  somo  fifty  or  sixty  feet  high,  lying 
southwest  of  the  town,  the  top  of  whicli,  like  all  the 
benches,  was  a  level  plain  lying  against  the  mountains 
and  overlooking  the  tow'a  and  plain  below,  and  CJlear 
Creek,  from  where  it  breaks  from  its  canyon  until  lost  on 
the  distint  plains.  This  bench  was  covered  with  most  ex- 
rpiisite  flowers.  Hero  were  Lupines  of  every  hue  between 
snowy  white  to  tyrean  purple;  rod  Penstcn^ous ;  indigo- 
bluc  and  crimson  O.rijtropies,  (the  reader  must  pardon  the 
scientitif  names,  as  these  plants,  as  yet,  have  no  others) 
yellow  M'ntzcUdS ;  white  and  purple  Anemones;  the 
gauily  Gaillardia  aristatu,  two  or  three  inches  in  diame- 
ter; the  Avlwtc  Townsendia ;  the  purple  Cleome  integrifola ; 
the  fragrant  Ahronia ;  the  cream-colored,  lily-shaped 
flower,  large  an  a  hollyhock,  of  the  Ynccit  angustifolia ; 
and  the  fragrant  (riiura  coecinnea.  llear  we  whiled  away 
the  liin('  ])lii(king  the  flowers,  jjicking  up  i^ebbles,  and 
occasionally  casting  glances  at  our   friends   on  the    other 

.  Hidcofthr^  valley  to  see  how  they  were  succeeding  in 
their  laudable  efl'orts  at  rising  in  the  world.  Hut  the  sun 
.went  down  before  the  foremost  of  thcixi  reached  the  pre- 


OVER   THK  PL^VINri  AND  ON  THE  MOUNTATN^.  '    Q<i 

cipitoiKs   Iia.-salt   elift'  orowniny;  tho   summit.       Tliin    coulJ 
only  be  surmuuutcd  hy  a  detour  to  the  northonst  of  nearly 
half  a  mile.     Twilight  hiul  set  in  before  any  of  them  stood 
on  the  summit,  and  most   of  llu-m   had    to  givt-   it   uj)    i:i' 
despair,  al'ier  liaving  achieved  two-thirds  of  the  task. 

Ileturning  lo  our  hotel  it  was  not  long  before  strag- 
glers of  the  unsuccessful  ascension ists  began  to  arrive. 
Seeing  that  failure  was  inevitable,  they  found  compenfla- 
tion  for  their  trouble  in  plucking  the  beautiful,  and  to  them 
now  and  unknown  flowers  which  covered  the  precipitous 
inountiiiu  sides.  It  fell  to  my  task  to  classify  and  name 
them.  Besides  most  of  those  found  on  the  bencli,  there 
were  three  species  oi'  Astragalus,  two  of  (Enothera,  a  Vesi- 
caria,  a  species  of  Castelegia,  and  the  beautiful  Calochortu.^ 
venustus,  as  large  as  a  tulip,  being,  in  fact,  a  three-leaved 
lily.  It  was  nine  o'clock  before  the  last  of  the  party 
returned. 

At  night  there  was  a  brilliant  aurora,  whidi,  through 
the  rare  and  j)uro  atmosphere  of  the  mountains,  showed  a 
rich  display  of  colors  and  h.'^avy  waves  of  light.  The 
view,  however,  was  obstructed  by  one  of  the  high  buttcH 
north  of  Clear  ('reek,  which  shut  out  everything  in  tliat 
direction  that  was  not  more  tlian  35  degrees  above. the 
horizon. 


66  crsini  -niK  vu^ins  ant»  on  Tn>:  xiouNXAms. 


ciiArTKrv  VI. 

As  it  was  the  ambition  of  some  of  our  party  on  tho  pre- 
vious evening  to  see  tlie  sun  sot  from  tlic  top  of  Castle 
Butt<?,  so  it  was  mine  to  sec  liim  rise  tlicnce.  I'arly  dawn 
found  mo  on  tiio  way  u]>  to  iho  summit.  Passim;;  over  the 
interveniuiif  ])lain  botwcoii  tho  town  aiul  tlie  foot  (^fthe 
butte  or  mountain,  iu  tiio  <;ray  dawn  I  «\spied  ooming- 
towards  me  some  animal,  which  I  at  first  feared  might  be 
a  wolf,  but  (•olloctiiig  courage  I  faced  it  bol<lly.  It  prove<r 
U)  he  a  largf!  shepherd  dog  who  had  watched  Ids  master'^ 
fxjws  during  the  niii-ht  wliib^  tlioy  climbed  u])  iho  steej) 
sidert  of  tho  mountuiri  to  crop  the  luscious  horbago.. 
Throughout  tlx*  Ilix'ky  Mountains,  I  found  it  general,  that 
it  diti  not  matter  how  rank  and  jdentiful  the  grassea 
were  in  the  valleys  ;ind  canyons,  nor  how  steep,  rugged" 
and  dangerous  tli<'  declivities,  all  animals,  cvon  at  the 
imminent  jmsU  of  their  lives,  would  ascend  the  steepest 
acclivities  t()  <ro]>  the  scanty  herbage  ol'  the  cliffs  and  the 
mountain  tops.  The  cows  in  ([uestion  at  (joklen,  like  sen- 
biblo  animals,  selected  the  coolest  jxirt  of  the  day  to  got 
tlieir  tid-bit,  and  took  with  them  a  courageous  and  iiiith- 
ful  guard.  lie  seemed  to  be  glad  to  see  me  and  accom- 
panied me  until  1  rcturnetl  fi-oin  my  niountain  i-amble.. 
When  I  got  back  to  the  foot  of  tiie  niountain  In;  sat  down, 
and  on  the  ]»lain  1  saw  his  o\\ nei-  coining  with  iniik  pails. 
Stopping  to  have  a  chat,  he  pointed  lii.s  finger  up  the 
mountain  and  caUcd  to  his  dog  to  "fetch  'em,  .lack."  I 
told  him  th<»  <log  had  l»een  most  friendly  and  had  piloted 
mo  over  th(^  mouritiiin.  Jle  Haid,  "  that  he  will  do  for  any 
Btranger,  a.s  long  as  ho  does  not  meddle  with  tho  cows." 

Well,  in.stcad  of  following  the  advico  I  heard  ib<;  citizens 


OVER   THE  PLAINS  AM)  OS  THE  MOUNTAINS.  67 

/2;ive  to  th(^  evouiiit;  piii'^.V-  ^"  follow  the  winding  path 
made  by  the  city  for  the  benotit  oi'  visitorH  to  the  top  of 
the  mountain,  I,  like  many  an  iinpationt  jxilitieian, 
thouu^iit  I  would  take  a  whort  cut  for  the  attainnu-nt  of  my 
ambition.  I  saw  a  ridi^e,  or  "  ho>r  back,"  as  it  is  here 
called,  right  before  me  which  Hcemed  entirely  jjracticable 
for  my  ]iurposo.  As  far  as  the  ridge  was  concerned  I 
found  it  so,  but  suddenly  m)-  "hog  back"  gave  out,  end- 
ing in  a  peri)endicular  precipice  ilfty  feet  deep,  facing  the 
mountain.  1  saw  the  trap,  and  also  how  1  could  get  out 
of  it.  This  was  to  go  down  the  edge  of  the  precipice,  but 
before  nie  there  rose  the  almost  impassible  barrier  of  a 
slope  up  the  mountain  of  an  angle  of  about  sixty  degrees 
witli  the  horizon,  with  but  little  foothold,  and  what  waft 
nxore  important  handhold  either.  Having  detei-mined  to 
try  it,  after  a  most  des|)erate  scramble  of  about  one  hun- 
dred and  fifty  yards,  I  reached  the  winding  path  dug  by 
the  citizens.  Thoroughly  disgusted  with  short  cuts,  I 
gladly  followed  it.  Looking  down,  I  now  first  became 
aware  of  the  risk  1  had  run.  It  made  my  head  swim  to 
look  dow^n  and  see  that  one  misstep  would  have  sent  me 
rolling  and  tumbling  down  the  precipitous  deciivity  five 
or  six  hundred  feet.  Though  almost  balked  by  the  mis- 
take made,  I  yet  reached  the  summit  fully  twenty  minutes 
before  the  sun  showed  himself  above  the  horizon,  ('astle 
Butte  or  Table  Rock,  as  it  is  sometimes  called,  froni  the 
plain  below,  appeared  as  though  its  truncated  summit 
might  be  a  sipuire  rod  in  area.  I  was  surprised  to  find  it 
about  one  acre.  Approaching  the  edge  of  the  ])recipice, 
one  hundred  and  sixty  feet  perpendicular,  there,  apparent- 
ly within  a  stone's  throw,  lay  Golden.  There,  too,  was 
Clear  Creek,  breaking  from  its  m<nnitaia  detile,  nearly  two 
miles  west,  rushing  and  foaming  and  i-oaring  over  the 
plain  and  through  the  village  ;  clear  as  crystal,  and  like 
a  stream  of  molten  silver  li-om  its  native  mountains.  It 
was  a  beautiful,  quiet  Sabbath  morning  scene.  Sleep  had 
not  yet  left  weaiy  eyelids,  and  all  was  silent  save  the  ever 


6?  OVER    TUK  IM.AINS  AND  ON'  •IIIK  Mot  NTAIN>. 

inuriimrinLC  noiso  of  llio  liiupitl  waier.  My  eye  run  u]> 
:iii<l  «Ii>\vn  tlio  vacant  streets  ami  across  the  bi-ids^e  spaii- 
riirij^  this  lieautifiil  sti-eain,  hut  no  iivini;-  thinji;  could  be 
descried,  excei)t  the  t-vcr-inovin--  wjiters.  Like  a  vast 
piinonuiia  the  {ilaiu  spreads  out  along  the  foot  of  the 
mountains  until  it  di]i.s  below  the  horizon,  thoui^h  the 
view  is  somewhat  interrupted  by  the  buttes  to  the  iiortb. 
West  lay  the  rifted  yet  unbroken  chain  of  the  mountaiu.s, 
terniinatini^  southward  with  Pike's  Pcalc,  wliich,  like  a 
iniixhty  bastion,  stands  out  iVom  tlu^  mountain  rampart  in 
that  flireotion.  To  tlie  northward  the  mountains  at  lenj^tli 
dip  lielow  the  hori/.on,  but  far  to  the  northwest  the  snowy 
summit  of  Tionii's  Peak  lie.s  a<!;ainst  the  intensely  translu- 
cent sky.  To  the  Avest  the  scone  is  exccedino-ly  <;-rand  and 
impressive.  On  the  edge  of  the  plain  rises  to  the  height 
of  two  thousand  feet  a  mountain  wall  of  rusty  feldspathie 
rock,  sometimes  bare  and  sometimes  covered  with  ever- 
green shrubs  and  trees,  the  whole  crowned  by  lir,  pine  and 
cedar.  Behind  this  wall,  peak  rises  l)chind  peak,  iintil  in 
the  far  AVest  the  whole  are  overtoj)])ed  now  and  then,  as 
seen  from  here,  by  a  snowy  ])innacle.  As  for  the  rising 
sun  view,  it  was  a  failure  and  disappointment.  Over  all 
the  plain  to  the  east  there  hung  a  gray  haze,  and  when  the 
sun  appeared  he  seemed  to  shine  through  a  dull  fog  bank. 
This  was  singular,  since  overhead  and  through  the  whole 
mountain  region  the  sky  was  of  an  intensely  deep  blue, 
and  the  air  along  the  plain  skirting  the  mountains  ex- 
tremely transparent.  8<nith  on  the  plain,  some  three 
miles  distant,  is  the  large  brick  edifice  of  the  Episcopal 
College,  and  some  distance  beyond  stands  the  Territorial 
School  of  Mines.  East  could  be  seen  several  ranches 
whose  irrigated  fields  f)f  dark  gi-ecn  contrasted  beautifully 
with  the  dull  gray  of  the  buflalo  grass  on  the  plain.  Be- 
yond, just  disci-rnible  through  the  haze,  at  a  distance  of 
sixteen  miles,  lay  Denver,  bordered  on  the  west  by  the 
glistening  waters  of  the  South  Platte;  and  from  the  north 
base  of  the  butte  through  the  intervening  plain,  like  a  sil- 


oxr.R  Tin:  t't.atns  anp  on  thk  mouxtain.s.  69 

vcY  i.>a);<!,   Clear  <  "i-crlc   coui'I   lie   (iMccd  iiiili:   its  juiu-lioii 
JUHV.  below  I>('iivcv  '.villi  ilu'  Piatti'. 

I*lii'-kin<^  a  I'cw  rare  (luwci's,  aiiion^jst  which  was  tlio 
Er\.i><imuin  aapcryiii  ol' (h'iicatc  nrai!a'»>-  ](iir])l(';  and  lakiiig; 
ii|i  a  Mdoead.it.^  us  ineiaorials  oi'  the  [thu-i  .  1  i-fluctaiitly 
tiinuHl  my  back  on  the  eiichantiiiL;;  s<-('iu'rv  a:i(l  ix'tiii-aed 
to  (rol<loii. 

AAer  uii  rxccUcnl  hrcak'iasi,  llic  inajdi-  [lart  of  oiii- coni- 
panv  oli'Ctcd  to  o-o  to  thi^  immiiiain.s  and  in  iho  depths  of 
their  u;ulches  and  canvoiis,  and  from  their  hi^li  pinnacles 
to  (•onteni])late  and  admire  the  sublimity,  grandeur  and 
va.stness  of  jS^ature's  works.  Tlear  creek  canyon  and 
Chimney  <ralch  seemed  botli  to  be  eli^'ible  iioints  for  oui' 
purpose.  For  two  and  a  half  miles  up  the  canyon  the 
track  tor  a  nan-ow-^-auge  i-ailroad  is  i^raded.  The  scenery 
in  the  canyon  is  sublime,  l>ul  avi^  were  assured 
there  was  no  ))racticabie  route  for  ascendin<;-  any  of  the 
peaks  within  a  reasonable  distance.  A  half  a  mile  south 
of  the  canyon  lies  C'himney  gulch,  through  which  flows  a 
mountain  brook  ef  clear  and  cold  water.  The  gulch  opens 
a  vista  into  the  mountains,  and  e-xposes  to  full  view,  in 
their  third  tier  of  cones,  the  culminating  ])cak  in  this  sec- 
tion. This  was  deemed  most  eligilde  for  our  purpose, 
and,  therefore,  Avas  selected  as  the  objective  point  of  our 
mountain  i-aml)le  for  the  day.  To  the  summit  in  a  direct 
line  is  only  about  three  ami  a  half  miles,  but  the  doub- 
lings and  windings  of  the  way  leading  to  it,  make  it 
between  six  and  seven.  The  sky  was  of  the  deepest  blue, 
and  from  it  l)eamed  a  midsummer  sun,  with  an  ardor  and 
brilliancy  unknown  to  other  climes.  But  the  craving  de- 
sire to  see  and  ex))lore  the  most  stu])endous  of  Nature's 
works,  was  too  strong  to  be  repressed  by  the  fiery  beams 
ot'a  vertical  sun.  Ascending  the  l)ench,  or  teri'ace,  that 
here  stretches  out  upon  the  jilain  and  overlo(d<s  (<olden 
an<l  the  valley  of  Clear  creek,  a  Avalk  of  a  mile  and  a  half 
brought  us  to  the  moutli  of  the  gulch,  up  which  leads  a 
path.      Here    it    at  once   became   evident    that    we   had 


70        OVKR  THK  I'l.AINS  AND  0\  TH  l"  MOrVTAIXS. 

tiinunl  oviT  :i  lUNV  loat"  dC  i1k-  voluin«^  of  Xutim,'.  Xor 
trco.  nor  slinil>,  nor  tlowor  presoiitoil  tluniliar  .species,  or 
ijroeti'd  us  as  olil  acquaintances.  All  were  nt'W  in  form, 
in  kinil  and  in  aspect.  In  ])ines,  there  Avere  tlie  Pinvs  pon- 
iicro.^d,  I'ontoriii,  jie.rilis  and  Edulis,  tlie  latter,  El pinon,  of 
New  Mexico.  Ot  tirs  or  spruce  there  wi're  tin'  Abies  Dovglas- 
sii,  Eiujelmannii  and  Menziesii.  A  nKiplc.  the  Acer  glab- 
niui,  so  disLTuiscd  in  tlic  i'm-ni  ul'its  leaf  as  to  lie  unrecoffniz- 
ahlo  except  hy  its  samara  ;  a  halt  a  dozen  new  species  of 
Spiren  ;  the  N'ooika  nis]>beri'y,  with  a  bloom  Iavo  inches 
in  diameter;  a  shruh,  tlio  Jamcs'ia,  so  called  after  Dr. 
.Tames,  a  companion  of  Col.  Lon^,  an  early  explorer, 
wlH)se  name  is  ])erpetuated  in  Long's  J^eak  ;  two  species  of 
shrubby  Potentilld'^,  and  two  specii;'S  of  ever<^re(Mi  barber- 
ries, generally  kuoMn  as  JfahonUif.  The  cornus  and  the 
rose  familii's  are  also  re])rosented  by  new  species;  so  also 
are  the  ])Ium,  cherry,  scrviceberry,  huckleberry  a)id  r.isp- 
berry.  In  tact,  everything  was  new  excepting  the  com- 
HKm  juni]ter,  the  liearberry  (Arrtosfaphylos  nv<r-ur-sr)  and 
one  or  two  others.  In  addition  to  the  flowers  below  on 
the  plain,  mostly  repeated  here,  there  were  a  yellow  Ca&- 
tillcjui,  a  large,  snowy  an(l  splendid  blue  Cobiinhine,  two 
Bpeeies  of  GUi<j,  tlie  beautiful  Clematis  I  if/ usticifob'a,  und  her 
not  less  beautiful,  and  more  than  half  sister,  the  Atragene 
alpina,  the  former  ex]>anding  her  snowy  white  sepals  fully 
three  inches  and  tlx?  latter  two.  Amid  such  a  profusion 
and  trrc^at  variety  ot  plants,  gaudy  as  well  as  new,  and  sur- 
rounded by  rugged  clitfs,  mountain  ])reci])ices  and  over- 
hanging rocks,  that  evei'V  moment  ihreatened  to  liiU  and 
crush  us  or  obstruct  our  way.  llie  flight  of  time  was  un- 
heeded, and  we  were  ascending  the  steep  acclivity  up 
whicli  oiir  patli  led,  wilbout  being  conscious  of  weariness 
or  <'xhaustion.  '^fhe  mountain  aii-,  though  the  sun  wan 
hot.  was  invigoi-ating ;  and  then  at  slioi-t  intervals  we 
turned  asidcf  to  slake  our  thirst  by  dipping  *' the  gliding 
crv'stal "  from  the  little  mountaii\  stream  that  flows 
through    the   gorge,  hid    for    the    most    part    by    ferns; 


OVF.a  TIIK  PI-AI\S    AND  (t\  THK  MO'JXVAIXS.  71 

■amonffst  whit-h  I   noiictMl  a  spocies  i-L-st-mMirii:;  tin*   T*tervi 
■iiquiUna  \\\{\\  an  ciuiniious  l(>al,  (  rroinl  ),  tVoiu   live    to  six 
feet  ]ii,ti;li  aixl  tliiH't'  widt'.      Oui-   jjalh,   iiiailc  lor  l)ringing 
down  lies  for  iho  railroad,  was  extremely  rou^li  and   tor- 
tuous.    The  i-i(l<:^(>s  or  "  lioic  Itacks"  iW)m  o]j]')osito  sides  of 
the   <i;iilcii   continually    toreed  tlie   latter  troju  a    straight 
line;  now  forcing  it  alnutst  at  right  aiigk\s  to  the  left,  and 
-then  haek  again  to  the  right,  so  that  its   course    is  zigzag. 
The   gulch   tinally  terminates,    and  a    huge  ''hog    bade" 
sweeps  in  from  thr  >oulh,  terminating,  onl\'  at  the  canyon 
wall  of  Clear  creek.     The  I'oad  now  slopes  up  to  the  north 
until  the  i-idge  of  this  '•  hog  back  "  is  reached,  wlien  it  fol- 
lows up  the  rJdgo  southeastward,  to  a  slight  <le])rt'.'3sion  on 
the  top  of  tlie  mountain.      West  of  this  ridge  is  an    im- 
mense chasm   so  steep  as  lo  ix*  im])racticabh'  toi-  any  liv- 
ing thing  cxccjit  the   mountain  goat.     At  the   bottom  of 
this  <'hasm  i-uns  Clear  ci'eek,  the  roar  of  whose  waters  are 
distincth'  heard,  though  hid  iVom  view  l»y  the  spruce  and 
pine  trees,  on  wiiose  tops  yoxx  looic  down  from  this  point. 
Ascending  the  ridge,  to  tlie  right  rises  our  objective  point, 
the  peak,  at    some    places    almost    ]ter])endicular,    to    the 
"heio'ht    of  between    six    and    seven    hundred    feet    more. 
Here  we  met  some  of  our  party  returning,  who  had  taken 
advantage  of  a  steep  cut-ofl'  up  the  great  ''  hog  back,  "  and 
in  about  one  hundred  yards  climbing  had  sjived  a  mile  of 
walking.     Attaining  the  summit  and  taking  a  position  on 
a  projecting  rock,  they  endeavored   lo   attract   oui'   atten- 
tion and  to  direct  us  where  to  go  by  tiring  a  pistol  as  soon 
as  we  would   come    in   sight  on  the   "hog  back."     Aeci- 
dentnlly  the  pistol   was  ])rematurely   discharged,   the  ball 
passing  through  the  hand  of  the  [tarty  holding  it.      They 
therefore  returned  to  the  water  to   wash   and   \.w   up    the 
wound.      Persuaded  by  them  that  by  going  a  little  to   the 
left  the  ascent  ot'the  peak  was  ])i'aclicable  fi'om  this   side, 
besides  saving  a  mile  in  distiince,  the  last  stated  fact  deter- 
mined my  course,  .so  away  I   went  up  the  acclivity,    but 
«oon  had  reasons  to  regi-et  the  choice  I  had  made,  for  the 


72  -•VKB  Tin;  ti.ains  and  on  tiik  MorxT.vifV!^. 

Holet?  dl'my  boots  soon  boojirno  as  smooth  as  polished  mar- 
h\v,  iiiaJ<inj4  it  irnpossihh'  to  Uoep  my  Jcot  on  the  dry 
Iciivos  ot'  the  sprueo  and  |iinf.  As  it  was  ;i  question 
whether,  unth-r  these  oirenmstances,  a  retreat  Avas  prcfer- 
ahk'  to  an  aiivanee,  so  I  chose  the  hatter,  and  after  tJio 
iriost  (h'S]ierate  seranihlinc;  ofall  my  mountain  ex])ericnce, 
attained  the  summit  ahead  ol  all  my  eom]>aiiions. 

The  summit  is  level,  and  covered  liy  a  jiine  and  S2>nice 
fri*ove.  Wallvin":;  in  a  northwestward  direction  beyond 
the  skirts  of  the  grove,  brings  you  to  a  bare  rock,  the 
«'dge  of  the  precipice.  The  view  from  this  point  is  most 
I  riclianting,  graml  and  maj^nificent.  You  stand  on  the 
top  ot  the  south  Avail  of  ( 'lear  creek  canyon,  a  precipice 
that  slopes  down  2,500  feet  at  an  angle  but  few  degrees 
remove<l  from  the  perpendicular.  The  roaring  of  the. 
'•reek  "like  the  sound  of  a  rushing  mighty  wind"  rises  to 
your  ear.  To  your  left  at  the  distance  of  about  two  hun- 
dred yards,  for  a  part  of  the  way  down  is  a  rugged  perpen- 
flicular  wall  of  naked  rocks;  but  immediately  in  front  the 
declivity  is  covered  with  young  firs  and  pine.  Since  you 
overlook  the  whoh',  the  side  of  the  declivity  a])pears  not 
(»nly  covered  with  a  mantle  of  everlasiJng  green,  but 
Heems  almost  as  even  as  if  clipped  by  shears.  But  as  you 
look  down  the  chasm  your  eyes  strain  in  vain  for  a  sight 
of  the  bottom,  oi*  to  catcli  a  glimpse  of  the  roaring  waters 
that  flow  th(*ie.  l)own,  far  down  as  the  eye  i-eaches,  the 
tops  of  gigantic  fir  or  jnne  trees  are  the  only  objects  visi- 
lile;  tops  of  trees  whose  hea<is  are  bathed  in  the  light  of 
noonday  sun,  but  whose  roots  are  fixed  in  the  bottom  of  a 
gloomy,  dismal  <  hasm. 

IJfl  now  your  eyes  to  the  scenery  beyond  llie  chasm. 
You  si-e  yini  are  looking  down  on  tlie  less  elevated 
nortfi  wall  of  the  canyon,  beyond  which  rises  gi-adually 
Jike  a  vast  amphitheatre,  mountain  u|)on  mountain  piled 
agaitist  the  northwestern  sky,  and  the  whole  crowned  by  a 
rampart  of  everlasting  snow.  To  the  north  this  snowy 
rampart  terminates  in  J^ong's  Peak,  some  tifty  miles   dia- 


OVKR   XnK  PLAINS  AND  OX  THK  MOUNTAINS.  73 

tant,  which  risi-s  fully  two  thousand  feot  above  Iho  aver- 
ago  height  of  !-?nowy  Jkiingo.     F;ii-  in  the  southwest  it  cul- 
minates in  Mount   Lincoln.      As    iiitennediate    bastions,- 
lasc  James*  ami  (iray'«  Peaks,  each  to  the  aftitude  of  over 
14^000  feet  above  the  sea.     The  tii-st  is  a!>out  twenty-five 
loilcH  south   of  Jjongs'    Peak;  the    last    is   about  twenty 
miles  Bouth  of  James'  Peak,  and  about  thirty  miles    duo 
west   from    here.     Mount    Lincoln    is   the   Titan    of  the- 
American  Cordilleras,  being  estimated,  according  to  de- 
terminations  made    by   Prof.   A.   LuBois,   at    seventeen 
thousand  five  hundred  feet  above  the  k'vel  of  the  ocean. 
It  is  nearly  ninety  miles  distant  from   here,  standing  at 
the  northwest  corner  of  South  Park.      West  of  it  is  the 
Upper  Canyon  ofthe  Arkanssis;  north,  Midtlle  Park  ;  and 
southeast,  South  Pai-k.     Fi-om  its  sides  issue  springs  that 
on  the  southeast  feed  the  South   Platte ;  on  the  west,  the 
Arkansas;  and  on  the  north,  Blue  rivei-,  which   falls  into 
Grand  river,  a  tributary  of  the  great   Colomdo  'of  the 
West.     Notwithstanding  its  great  distance,  there  it  stands 
majestically,  towering  high  above  all  other  peaks,  unique 
and  inimitable,  a  Titan  am'ong  pygmies,  like  its   proto- 
type, whose  name  it  perjjetuates,  did  amongst  men.     Its 
ba«c  garlanded  by  evergreens,  emblems   of  immortality, 
and  its  summit  crowned  with  the  symbol  of  spotless  ])ur- 
ity,  the  white,  persistent  snows  of  untold  ages,    it   is   a 
fitting  monument  to  symbolize  the  towering  intellect,  and 
to  perpetuate  the  memory  of  the  devout  patriotism  and 
immaculate  puritv  of  the  trreat  and   Avise    statesman   and 
model  President  whose  luime  it  bears,  and  whose 

"  One  of  tho  few,  the  inniiortal  iianies 
That  \vi!r<^  imi  iKin  to  die.  " 

Long's  Peak  and  ^fount  Lincoln,  terminating  the  ex- 
treme visible  points  of  the  Snowy  llange,  as  seen  hence, 
from  their  great  altitude  appear  like  immense  bastions  at 
the  angles  of  an  icy  rampart,  beliind  which  stern  winter 
lies  intrenched  forever.     To  the   south   the  view    is   ob- 


74  OVKK  TUK  I'L.VI\S    AND  ON  TlIK  MOUNTAINS. 

Ptrutiod  by  ;i  i»ine  aiul  Hpruoo  forest,  but  on  the  ejwt  tliero 
i3  a  fnio  view  of  the  phiins  for  one  hundred  luilea  and 
more!  At  a  point  or  two  south  of  east  and  twenty  miles 
di.stiinl,  but  api)arently  near  tlie  foot  of  the  mountains, 
lien  l)enver.  You  look  down  into  its  streets,  an<l  from  far 
Houth  of  it  to  down  jiorth  ot'lrreeley,  "vvhere  it  meet^fi  the 
Cache  a  la  I'oudre,  the  s])arklin,i^  waters  of  the  South 
Platte  are  neeii.  'flie  Plains  arc  an  unvaried  t!;rav,  witli 
nothinj^  to  give  them  variety  excepting  the  irrigated  fields 
along  the  South  Platte  and  (Mear  creek,  and  the  lino  of 
stniggling  Cottonwood  trees  that  skirt  their  brinks. 

To  the  northeast,  far  beyond  the  Platte,  a])peared  what 
Beomed  to  be  two  beautiful  lakes  on  the  plains.  One  of 
our  la«ly  (•i)nipanions  mistaking  them  for  such,  to  unde- 
ceive her  I  told  her  they  were  only  phantom  lakes,  the 
■optical  deceptions  of  mirage;  giving  the  word  the  French, 
but  also  the  only  authorized  English  ])ronounciation. 
"And  pray,"  said  she,  ''what  is  mirazh!"  To  ex]dain,  I 
began  by  telling  her  it  is  one  of  those  things 

"Fur  uhicli  ihf  ppoceh  f)f  Enj^liiinl  had  no  iiarn*>.  " 

In  Italy  they  call  it  Fata  Morgaiio.  It  was  oUscrvod 
there  in  ancient  limes  as  is  abundantly  evident  from  both 
Greek  and  Roman  i-eeords.  Along  the  Straits  of  Messina 
then,  as  now,  the  coast  and  objects  below  the  horizon 
fiometiines  loomed  up  nl)C)Vt'  it;  at  other  times  seemod  to 
approach  the  opposite  shore,  and  what  was  more  astonish- 
ing, otleiitimcs  seemed  to  hang  invci-ted  from  the  wky. 
"  Why,  "  she  re})lied,  "  that  is  mi-rar/r.  "  I  iluMi  saw  what 
was  the  matter  and  f(dt  relicvc(l,  for  I  began  to  fear  that 
if  I  attem])t<'d  the  explanation  of  special  atm(»sj)heric  con- 
ditions, dillenrnt  densities  of  adjacent  HU])erincumbent 
layers  of  aii-,  and  the  consequent  refraction  of  light,  that  I 
vvfjuld  sn<'<'eed  in  making  it  jilain  that  mdther  1  nor  the 
leiirned  knew  a  j^article  more  about  the  true  nature  of'tho 
phenomenon    than    the    common    peoj)le    do.      Indeed,    I 


0\K11    THK  l»r,AINS  AVI)  OV  TUK  MOUNTArVS.  75 

made  a  narrow  esuape  of  <ixjX)Ming  the  fact  tluit  I  wu.s 
talking  ]»hylo4ophy,  if  judi,'iMl  hy  tho  Scolchmun'.s  rulo, 
wlio  alway.s'  knew  wlu'ii  a  man  lalkt'd  nuilajjlivHics  j 
name!)-  '' wlicn  ^-ou  can'iia  t<'II  what  lie  means,  jind  he 
din'na  kiMi  himsei. " 

Ah  already  .Ntaleil  J  liail  i'eacli<Hl  ilie  mountain  toj)  I'ully 
half  an  hour  in  advance  of  mv  comiianions.  On  the  odp-e 
of  the  j[ri'ove  and  near  tho  brink  of  the  jireeijnce,  there 
stands  a  j)erj)i.Midicular  r(jck,  some  twenty  feet  liii^h  and 
about  the  same  width.  At  the  base,  near  its  north  end, 
there  is  about  as  beautiful  a  bench  rock,  some  twenty 
inches  ■wide,  as  if  made  ])y  hand.  It  is  a  jjart  of  a  huge 
rock  which  faces  north-west,  and  for  five  feet  this  bench 
protrudes  from  tho  side.  Where  i  t  terminates,  there  stands, 
Avith  its  ti'unk  against  the  rock,  a  low  headed  spinico,  com- 
pletely shading  for  ten  feet  and  moi'e  the  ground  around 
its  roots,  j^reaking  off  some  dry  limits  that  intei'fered 
with  the  use  of  the- bench,  I  sat  down  tri  rest  until  the 
i'ompany  would  arrive,  and  to  enjoy  the  magnificent scen- 
t'ry  of  evergreen  mountains,  bounded  by  ••verlasting 
snows  in  the  distiince  that  lay  stretched  out  like  a  viust 
panorama  befon^  me. 

Answering  a  call,  soon  brought  the  greater  ])a)'t  of  tho 
company  to  the  spot,  where  they  gave  vent  to  their  entha- 
siasm  at  beholding  the  grand  sight  by  a  yell  that  would 
have  done  credit  to  the  Utes  themselves. 

Appropos;  why  is  this  impulse  for  Avhooping  so  univer- 
i<al  in  all,  oven  in  the  almost  inexcitable,  on  reaching  those 
elevated  regions'::'  .Son\e  think  it  is  owing  to  the  excite- 
"mcnt  produced  by  so  great  variety  of  novelty,  oi- an  out- 
burst of  enthusiasm  at  beholding  so  mucli  grandeur  and 
sublimity,  .judging  by  my  own  experience  I  cannot  con- 
ceive those  to  be  the  true  causes.  I  felt  an  ii'i-epressible 
desire  to  whooj)  long  before  1  sanv  anything  at  all  as  extraoi-- 
dinarily  impressive.  Moreover,  when  1  stood  iiico  to  face 
before  the  shrino  of  Nature,  and  contemplated  her  inimita- 
ble beauty,  l)ewildering  grandeur  and  imposing  majesty,  I 


76  f'VKi;  TIIK  I'l.AINS    AND  <i.\  TUi:  MdKXTAIN.S. 

I'cit  as  thou^^li  :i  whispoi-  Wduld  ho  .sacrilii;-i(>n^  jirofanity^ 
1  think  tlio  causes  :iru  physioloiricul  and  not  aesthetic, 
hwellers  in  tlie  .\Iississii>|)t  N'alley  or  on  tlio  sea  shore^ 
I»re4ithe  an  atmosphere  so  dense  th;it  tlieiraverai:;e  res]»ir- 
atiousare  hut  sixteen  per  minute.  ImiI  hi-re  on  the  moun- 
tains, the  rospiration.s  are  inereitsed  to  twenty- four  per 
minute;  ami  the  ]>uisations  ot' the  heart  and  the  lh)w  of 
tilood  ill  the  veins  ai"i' a<-ceh'raled  in  like  proportion.  The 
effect  on  the  system  is  an  c.vhihiration  almost  aniountinjx  to 
int<~»xiciiti<>n,  and  hence  that  outlnirst  of  I'eelinj^  which 
affect-s  all.  and  whi(  h  it  is  found  so  diliicult  to  repress. 

Resigninsz;  niy  seal  on  the  rock  to  a  lady,  wdiO' made  a 
skotoh  of  the  mountain  scenery  and  the  Snowy  lu'ingo  for 
her  children,  I  soui^ht  shelter  under  the  shade  of  a  most 
magniticent  J>ouglass  spruce,  whose  ])v'ndant  hranche.s 
swept  the  ground  for  some  distance  around.  J [en^  I  laid 
down  on  the  di-y  tii-  and  ])ine  leaves  that  Tna<le  a  bed  as 
Mitl  as  a  mattress.  I'rofessor  Kclsey,  of  Kansas,  soon 
joined  me,  and  we  tulked  until  we  fell  asleep.  Awaking, 
we  found  our  company  all  go!ie,  and  the  mountain  silent, 
Hre-aking  a  l-ranch  of  the  tree  as  a  gratcfid  memorial  of 
the  jdeasant  hours  spent  under  its  shade,  we  wended  our 
way  down  the  mountain  towards  Golden,,  where  we  arrived 
in  time  for  supper.  ' 


OVKU  THE  i'LAINS   AN1>  UN  TUB  MOUNTAINS.  77 


CHAPTKTl  VI I. 

Early  on  Monday,  June  12ih,  we  left  (lolden  on  the 
morning  train  fur  Denver,  where  -yve  arrived  in  ample 
time  to  take  the  train  of  the  Denver  Pacific  railroad  for 
Cheyenne,  in  Wyoming  Territory,  one  hundred  and  six 
miles  north.  By  an  amended  act  of  Congress  the  Kan8a.s 
Pacific  railroad  was  released  from  its  obligation  to  connect 
with  the  Vniun  Pacific  railroad  at  the  100th  meridian,  and 
the  law  so  changed  as  to  require  it  to  connect  with  the 
Union  Pacific  railroad  at  a  point  Jiot  more  than  "^0  miles 
west  of  the  meridian  of  Denver.  The  Kansas  Pacific  con- 
sequently followed  up  the  general  route  of  the  Smoky 
Hill  to  Denver,  with  theintentionof  ultimately  connecting 
with  the  Union  Pacific  hence.  As  the  land  grant  of  Con- 
gress extends  the  whole  length  of  the  line,  the  Kansas 
Pacific  encouraged  the  formation  ofa  Jiew  company,  whoso 
initial  point  was  Denver,  to  make  this  junction.  Accord- 
ingly the  Denver  Pacific  Pailroad  Company  was  organized, 
and  by  a  subsequent  act  of  Congress  the  Kansas  Pacific 
was  authorized  to  transfer  its  lands  and  the  franchises  of 
that  portion  of  the  line  from  Denver  to  the  junction,  to  the 
new  company.  It  was  late  in  the  fiiU  of  1867  when  the 
initial  steps  ft)r  the  organization  of  the  new  company  were 
first  taken.  The  land  grant  amounts  to  12,800  acres  for 
every  mile  of  the  length  of  the  road  ;  or  more  specifically, 
the  lands  granted  by  Congress  were  alternate,  that  is  odd 
numbered  sections  for  ten  miles  on  each  side  of  the  road. 
The  wot'k  Avas  commenced  at  Cheyenne;  and  on  the  16th 
of  December,  1869,_the  road  was  completed  and  oi)ened  a.s 
far  as  Evans,  a  distance  of  53  miles  j  and  on  the  23d  of 
June,  1870^  the  first  passenger  train  arrived  at  Denver 


78  OVVP.  TlIK  I'LAINH    AVn  ON  TIIK  MOVNTArNS. 

The  total  cost  of oonstruitioti  nnd  rcjuipuuMit  <ifiUo  road 
in  mid  to  l.e  88,000.000. 

At  S  o'clock  t!uMi":iiu  start*  <l  headin;^  duo  norlli.  Tho 
phviii  appoaivil  ilry  jiiul  parched  in  conseqiionc*'  of  tho 
proniinenco  uiid  provaloiu-o  of  tho  dead  "  luosquito  "  gras^. 
But  undornoath  this  sore  coverinjjj  of  mcBquito  iH  a  thick 
coatincj  of  Buttah*  grass  (^Buchloe  ddcti/Ioides)  possessing 
most  extniordinarv  nutritive  qualities.  At  short  intervals 
wo  passed  largo  herds  of  cattle  feeding  on  this  apparently 
arid  i>!ani  in  the  host  condition.  Often  these  were  aocom- 
j>ariied  hy  hordsnieii.  Tho  road  is  straight,  and  its  direc- 
tion Ia  down  t'.ie  valley  of  the  Platte,  but  the  river  is 
generally  several  miles  to  the  west  and  can  bo  traced  by 
an  occasional  cottonwood.  It  soon  becomes  eviflont  that 
tho  direction  of  tho  road  diverges  Irom  that  of  the  moun- 
tain range;  for  the  mountains  ap2)arently  recede  farther 
and  farther  to  tho  west ;  whereas  their  course  is  due  north 
and  south.  Long's  Peak  is  now  the  central  figure,  tower- 
ing far  above  all  tho  neighboi-ing  peaks. 

Tho  tirst  station,  seventeen  miles  north  ot  Denver,  is 
flughes',  the  junction  of  the  Boulder  Yalloy  railroad  ;  but 
the  tirst  town  is  P]vans,  tho  county  scat  of  Weld  county. 
Evans  claims  to  be  a  8t.  Louis  colony,  but  1  could  learn 
nothing  of  its  organization,  advantages  nor  investments. 
It  s(?emed  to  me  as  though  its  inhabitants  were  simxularlv 
dclicient  in  enterpriso  and  energy,  and  that  they  have 
\(iry  little  to  do  other  than  that  ot  running  to  the  station 
■when  a  train  arrives;  at  least  such  was  the  case  each  time 
ire  passed;  and  we  can  scarcely  imagine  that  rumor  had 
noised  it  abroad  that  in  tlie  coming  tram  were  great  men 
worth  seeing — yet  such  may  have  been  the  cas(s  and  a 
hoax  played  of  on  them  may  explain  their  (conduct. 

Four  mlies    north    of    Evans  is  Greele\',  about  which 
there  has  been  more  written  and  jjublished  within  a  year 
than  ot  any  other  place  on  the  glob(;  beside.     Its  history, 
in  brief,  is  this :     The  colony  was  organized  in  the  city  of" 
:^ew  York,  on  tho  23d  of  December,  1869,  by  the  enroll- 


OVER    THK  pr^lINS  AND  OS  TIXK  MOITNTAINK.  79 

merit  of  fifty-niiic  membors.  An  exeeulivo  coinmittee 
wjvs  appointed  to  invesiigato  what  advantages  and  induce- 
mentH  were  offered  to  HettleVs  by  Nebraska,  Kansas, 
Wyoming,  Utah  and  (Colorado.  After  an  investigation, 
the  Executive  Committee  selected  the  site  for  the  town 
between  the  Cache-a-la-Poudro  and  the  Soutli  Platte^, 
three  mih^s  above  their  junction,  about  lifty  miles  south  ot* 
Cheyenne,  and  fifty-six  north  of  Denver,  on  tho  Denver 
Pacitic  railroad.  The  distance  front  the  mountains  is 
about  forty-liV(i  miles.  But  I  must  draw  you  a  pen-and- 
ink  sketch  of  the  topography  and  scenery  surrounding 
this  famous  ])lace,  tliat  you  may  know  how  it  looks: 
Suppose  you  take  a  position  locking  nf;rth,  on  tho  rail- 
road bridge  spanning  the  Platte  south  '  fEvans.  Beneath 
3-ou  flows  a  mountain  torrent  one  hui^'red  and  thirty 
yards  wide,  brimfull,  yet  clear  as  crystal,  roarii.r  and 
flashing  down  tho  plain,  it  is  a  nc  blc,  majctic  und  beau- 
tiful stream.  No  bushes  encumber  its  edges,  ror  ba:.ks  it 
has  none,  because  tho  level  plain  sinks  down  with  it;  bur- 
then of  grass  and  flowers  to  kiss  the  silver  wave.  Like 
tho  shores  of  Lor-li  ^fary  : 

"Just  a  line  of  pebbly  sand 
Marks  where  the  water  meets  the  land. " 

Tho  ])lai II,  level  as  a  barn  floor,  is  covered  with  the 
persistent,  but  now  dry  mescpiite  grass,  and  has,  therefore, 
tho  color  of  a  newly  harvested  oat-field.  Some  eight 
miles  distant,  and  stretching  to  the  northwest  tintil  lost 
sight  of  in  tho  distance,  is  a  very  straggling  lino  of  low 
Cottonwood  trees,  tho  only  sign  of  living  vegetation.  Tho 
plain  extends  west  to  tho  mountains,  forty  to  forty-five 
miles  distant,  and  rests  against  them.  It  has  a  regular 
ascent  from  hero  to  the  mountains  of  fifty  feet  per  mile, 
but  is  entirely  destitute  of  vegetation  excepting  the  hid- 
den buffalo  grass  and  the  dry  mcsquite.  Far  towards  tho 
east  tho  plain   eeems  to  culminate   in  a  ridge,  probably 


;80  OVEX   TEIK  PLAINS  AND  ON  THE  MOINTAINS. 

merely  iniraic".  which  often  on  the  Phiins  seemingly  raison 
up  the  eilge>  of  the  horizon  like  tlie  rim  of  a  sauceraroimd 
yon.  Ik'fore  you  is  llie  viJUige  of  Evans,  and  four  mile** 
further  is  (Ireeley,  l)eyond  which  Hwee]).s  the  Ca<he-a-hi 
I'oiulre,  marked  out  over  the  ]>Uiin  by  the  aforesaid  line 
of  Cottonwood.  In  the  fir  north  i-ise  elevations  of  a  whit- 
ish greenish  icray,  indicating  that  tlic  mesquito  has  be<in 
•sujtjdanted  1>\-  some  other  vegetation.  Down,  northeast, 
after  the  junction  with  the  Caehe-a-la-Poudre,  some  three 
miles  hehjw  Greeley,  the  course  of  the  Platte  can  be 
tniced  b^-  the  cottonwoo<l,  until  it  sinks  below  tho  hori- 
zon. There  you  have  a  jncture  of  Greeley  and  its  sur- 
roundings, which  in  all  conscience  is  monoton(»us  enough. 

The  colony  ])urchased  of  the  Denver  Pacific  Jlailroad 
Comiiany  and  from  individuals  12,000  acres  of  land.  The 
preliminaiy  steps,  that  is,  by  ])re-emption,  etc.,  for  tho  oc- 
cupation of  60,000  acres  of  government  lands,  and  also  a 
<'ontract  was  made  with  the  Denver  Pacific  Company  to 
j)un-hase  within  three  years  50,000  acres  more,  at  from 
S3  to  S4  ])er  acre.  The  colony  thus  has  control  of  some 
12"),000  acres  of  land,  all  of  whi(;h  can  be  irrigated  Ironi 
canal•^  from  the  South  Platte  and  C'a(die-a-la-Poudre. 

The  town  is  .subdivided  into  520  business  lots,  25  by  190 
feet;  073  residence  lots,  ranu:inic  from  50  to  200  by  190 
feel ;  and  277  lots  reserved  for  schools,  chui-ches,  ])ublie 
buildiTigs,  etc.  Tho  adjacent  lands  are  subdivided  into 
plats  Iroiii  5  to  120  acres  each,  according  to  distance  from 
the  cfiitre  of  the  town,  ami  each  meniber  allowed  to  select 
<»ne  of  these  unde.r  his  certificate  of  mcmbershij).  The 
town  now  contains  about  350  buildings,  from  board  shan- 
ties to  brick  fronts.  It  has  some  seventeen  stores,  thre<) 
Inmbor  yanis,  three  blacksmith  and  wagon  shops,  and  one 
[trinting  ])ress.  It  has  an  Educational  P>oard,  Farmers' 
('lub  and  Lyceum  and  Library  Association.  As  far  as 
the  eye  (-jin  n-ach  the  jdain  is  dotted  with  new  shanties  of 
the  liomesteaders  and  ])re-emptioncrs.  Some  of  our  party 
H^jpped  over  until  tlie  return  of  the  train  from  Cheyenne. 


OVKU  TUli  PLAINS  AM)  OM  THK  M01]>n'AINcs.  81 

"They  intorv'icwcd  the  citizeiiH,  hut  the  latter  socmed  so 
reticent  Jind  averse  to  coinmunicuto  informution  or  answer 
qiiestioriH,  thut  nothintr  of  importaiK;e,  cither  concerning 
the  progress  or  pros])ect8  of  the  colony,  \v:ih  elicited.  It. 
is  not  })Ossihle  for  any  one  merely  looking  from  the  car 
window  of  a  train  to  form  any  accurate  opinion  of  the 
condition  and  capabilities  of  a  soil,  or  to  form  an  accurate 
judgment  of  tho  art  and  skill  with  which  il  is  handled.  If 
it  were,  then,  1  must  confess  that  the  opinion  so  formed  it* 
not  of  the  most  luvorahle  character  as  to  Crccloy.  In  thin 
case  the  opinion  of  those  who  stayed  over,  and  had  better 
opportunities  than  I  had,  not  only  coincide  with  my  own, 
but  are  even  more  unfavorable.  In  the  first  ])lace  the  land 
is  very  gravely,  forming  naturally  graveled  streets,  and 
certainly  not  of  the  first  quality  for  agriculture;  and  then 
it  seemed  as  though  those  who  had  the  management  of  it 
knew  next  to  nothing  of  the  way  things  have  to  be  done 
in  this  climate.  Gardens  were  flooded  and  literally 
drowacd  out;  and  of  the  thousand  of  trees  planted,  both 
•everccreen  and  deciduous,  not  hundreds  were  living  from 
the  same  cause.  It  would  have  paid  the  colonists  well  if 
they  had  hired  some  New  Mexican  to  have  taught  them 
the  art  of  irrigation,  and  some  expert  tree-planter  who 
would  have  shown  them  how  to  plant  and  1o  take  care  of 
a  tree.  It  seemed  as  though  the  greater  part  of  the  colo- 
nists were  mere  theorists,  and  were  for  the  first  time  in  a 
situation  to  reduce  their  theories  to  practice.  But  we 
have  hope  they  will  j)rofit  by  their  mistakes,  and  guard 
acrainst  their  recurrence.  As  a  matter  of  course  it  could 
have  been  anticipated  that  dreams  and  expectations  of 
enthusiastic  natures,  who  are  most  likely  to  engage  in 
such  an  enterprise  as  this,  would  not  be  realized  in  a  day, 
nor  even  in  a  year.  Moreover  they  may  be  so  outre  as 
not  to  be  realizable.  Consequently,  disappointment  is  to 
be  expected,  and,  necessarily  dissatisfaction  and  grum- 
bling. Perhaps  the  management  has  not  at  all  times  been 
tlie  wisest;  and  there  may  have  been  over-re^iching  on 
6 


<^' 


OVKR  TIIK  PLAINS    AM)  O.V  THK  MOUNTAIN'S. 


tho  part  of  some  managers  for  self  apj<^ratidizeinent  and 
pKjrHonal  ambition  ;  but  still  tho  cnterpriHO  seom.s  to  havo 
tho  eK'nu'nts  of  ultimate  success,  notwithstandinfj  tho 
Ki\nlshii)S  it  imposes  on  its  pioneers  and  the  many  present 
dis<.'ouni<foments. 

At  pri'scnt  tho  ])rospo('t  of  findin<;-  a  inai-kct  U>v  its  sur- 
plus jiroductions,  is  not  of  the  most  flatterinti;  nature.  It 
is  sixty-five  miles  tt)  Boulder,  by  rail,  the  only  inlet  into 
the  motintaiiis  at  this  point ;  to  Cheyenne  it  is  tifty,  and 
to  I>i'iiver  tifty-six  miles.  To  be  sure  there  is  somo 
tiilk  of  construct in.i^  a  railroad  direct  to  Boulder,  forty-fivo 
miles  distant.  liut  in  that  case  the  citizens  on  tho  Plains 
aroun<l  lioulder  will  have  the  advantage  of  them,  to  tho 
amount  of  freight  and  charges. 

.\l\er  passing  the  Cache-a-la-Poudre,  aii(>th('r  of  those 
b<jld,  ]im])id  and  ra'jtid  moumain  streams,  the  plain  as- 
cends rapidly  l,<)7o  feet  in  the  forty  miles  to  Summit  Sid- 
ing, and  then  descends  into  a  valley,  whence  it  rises  to  the 
ridge  o]\  which  is  Cheyenne.  Cheyenne  is  6,041  feet 
above  th(!  sea  and  ^^75  feet  lower  than  at  Summit  Sidin*'-. 
Soon  after  crossing  the  ( Jacho-a-la-Poudre  the  character  of 
tho  ])lain  changes.  The  mesqiiite  grass  disap))cars,  the 
soil  becomes  a  lighter  color,  it  even  a])pears  Mhilisli,  and 
tho  only  vegetation  on  hill  and  plain  is  the  short  buffalo 
gnu-s  and  jiriekly  pear  or  cactus.  The  latter  in  full  _ 
bloom,  extending  its  yellow  blossom  fully  to  the  size  of  a 
holly-hoek.  Jlithei-to  the  only  color  was  yellow,  Imt  now 
a  brownish  jjurple  is  intermixed  with  the  yellow,  and 
often  alono  occupies  lai'gc  i)atches.  The  ])rairie-dog  vil- 
lages also  ar(>  more  numerous,  and  tlicre  is  a  lively  timo 
in  them  when  tho  train  approaches.  Hundredis  of  tho 
dogs,  big  and  little,  can  bo  seen  i-unning  for  dear  life  to 
tlicir  holes.  But  there  stands  the  stolid  burrowing  owl 
on  the  hillock,  fixed  us  if  he  were  a  brass  statuette,  un- 
mindful of  everything  that  passes  around  bin). 

The  hills  octtisionally  show  caps  of  rocks,  frequently  as- 
Hiuning  tho  shapes  of  low  jfillars,  pynimids  and   occasion- 


OVKR  THE  PLAINS  AND  ON  THE  MOUNTAINS.       83 

ully  of  ruined  ca.stleK.  In  a  valley  on  tlic  plain  is  a  moHt 
eingiilar  one  of  the  latter.  It  Htands  within  fifty  feet  of 
tho  railroad.  It  i.s  about  forty  feet  square  with  an  exten- 
Bion  ea.stAvard  for  half  tlio  length  of  the  cast  wall,  8ay 
twenty  feet  more.  The  wail  is  about  thirty  inches  thielc, 
and  its  average  height  is  about  four  feet.  Facinii:  the  road 
at  the  southwest  cornei-  is  a  space  of  about  four  feet  wide, 
making  an  opening  in  the  eiKtlosure  which  is  covered  with 
grass  and  looks  for  all  the  world  |is  though  it  had  been 
the  doorway.  Tho  sides  of  this  open  space  are  pei-pendic- 
ular  rock,  weatherworn  and  rounded  as  with  aivhitectural 
design.  The  wall  also  lias  anguLar  depressions  that  re- 
semble openings  for  windows.  It  simulates  the  work  of 
man  so  closely  that  it  would  be  mistaken  for  such  did 
it«  exposure  not  disclose  that  it  is  a  single  rock 

With  the  exception  of  these  castellated  rocks  jirotrud- 
ing,  for  the  most  part,  from  tho  hilltops,  the  scenery  for 
the  fifty  miles  between  (Jreclev  and  Cheyenne  is  ex- 
tremely  monotonous.  The  rolling  plain  is  covered  with 
a  coat  of  buffalo  grass  ofunvaried  greenish  gray,  enameled 
now  and  then  by  a  stray  plant  of  tho  deepest  blue  peren- 
nial larkspur  (iOc/y^/imfwrn  acj^rf  ?«?),,)  a  red  Pensfamon,  an 
indigo  blue  Oxytropls,  and  occasionally  a  sjiot  covered 
with  Cadvs. 

At  Cheyenne  j'our  eye  sweeps  in  vain  around  the  hori- 
zon for  an  object  to  rest  upon,  nor  shrul»,  nor  tree,  nor 
rock  is  visiblo  atany. point  or  in  any  direction.  Alone, 
the  mountain  tops  are  to  bo  seen,  seventy  or  eighty  miles 
away,  pretruding  their  icy  pinnacles  above  the  southwest- 
ern rim  of  the  liorizon;  all  else  is  vacuity  except  plain 
and  sky.  Such  is  tho  weary  monotonous  scenery  of  the 
plain  in  and  around  Cheyenne.  Again,  as  in  the  case  of 
Denver,  the  question  rises  spontaneously,  "why  Avas  this 
point  selected  for  a  cit}'  ?  and  again  the  answer  is,  by  ac- 
cident; that  accident  was  the  arbitrary  choice  of  the  man- 
agers of  the  Union  Pacific  railroad  locating  tlieir  machine 
shops  here.     Like  Denver,  it  has  streets  graveled  b^'  Na- 


84  OVKR  THK  PLAINS    ANT>  0\  THE  MOUNTAINS. 

turo,  which  nover  nt'cd  ropairini;- ;  Iml.  unlike  it  in  this  r«v 
Hpoct,  that  tho  gnivol  rests  upon  :i  solid  foundation  and 
not  upon  quicksand  Choyenno,  unlike  its  sisler  city, 
l)v'nvi.'i-,  Avill,  thoreloiv^  ncvor  In-  aiflirUMl  with  a  jieriodi- 
cal  j)aroxisni  of  trousurc  sookiui;-,  looking  foi*  the  city  safe. 
Even  our  oastorn  cousins  arc  not  exempt  from  similar 
attaclcs  of  more  or  less  severity  and  frequcnty,  (iuring 
wluch  they  vi«;t)rously  hunt  f(,ir  tln^  mythical  treasures  liid 
by  ('a])tain  Kidd.  l>ut  the  ii;ravelly  streets  of  Denvei-,  or 
nitlu'T  the  ])el)hly  bottom  ot  the  South  Plalte,  hides  a  real 
treasure,  which  occasions  l]ie  outbreak  of  the  mania  in 
Denver;  i^'V  on  an  t'ver  memorable  moi-nini;-  in  ]8t34, 
Cherry  Creek  l)ein!jj  ''on  a  bender,"  the  glory  of  J)cnver, 
the  (^ity  Hall,  containing  the  city's  sate  and  its  Ireasur-.'s, 
toolc^its  depajMure  down  stream,  and  tinally  disap]><^ared 
in  the  quicksand  like  a  dissolving  view,  leaving  nor 
wreck  nor  trace  behin<l. 

l-'orbidding  as  is  the  a])j)earance  (d"  the  landscape 
around  Cheyeiiiu-,  aTid  ()ppressivt;ly  jrionotonous  as  is  its 
scenery,  yet  ther(!  is  the  demonstration  being  made  f)f  the 
value  of  ihese  a])j)arently  arid  plains,  for  grazing  and 
stock-raising.  Here  are  men  who  f)wn  cattle  by  thous- 
ands, and  who  aro  realizing  iVom  ten  to  twenty  thouHan<l 
net 'prolit  annually  from  tbeir  flocks.  More  than  6,000 
feet  above  the  sea  level,  and  fort\-oiie  degrees  and  more 
of  north  latitude,  yet  cattle  here  need  no  sludter  or  feed- 
ing the  year  round,  subsisting  upf)n  tln^  natural  hay  of  the 
country,  the  dry  bufl'alo  gi'ass,  and  going  through  the  win- 
ter in  better  condition  than  cattle  do  in  the  States  upon 
both  food  and  shcdter.  And  then  if  you  desire  to  know 
what  a  tendci-,  juiry  and  savory  beefsteak  is,  let  me  com- 
mend you  III  I  ry  that  rsiised  and  liittened  ii])on  the  buffalo 
gniss  (d'tlie  westci-n  jilaiiis.  1  have  abundant  statistics  ou 
liajid  If)  show  the  number  of  the  flocks  of  different  own- 
ers and  their  annual  ju'ofits^  on  tlu-  plains  along  the  foot 
«^»f  the  inounUiins  heneo  to  south  of  Denvcj*,  which  I  miust 
here  omit.     Sheep  do  splendidly,  and  are  entirely  exempt 


OVER.    THK  I'f.AtVS  AVT^  <'''<  THE  ?ilOirN'T.MVS.  85 

fiorn  tliscaseH.  Larj^e  flocks  are  being  introduced  an- 
nually; a  Jioslon  company  alone  has  a  iierd  of  25,000 
head. 

Aflcr  an  ox-cellent  dinner  at  Cheyenne,  we  took  the  re- 
turn tram  iln-  Denver,  wliere  we  arrivinl  ut  half-past  six 
o'clock.  Finding  carriages  in  wailing,  wi.^  hastily  drove 
through  Denver,  crossing  the  fnie  bridge  over  the  Platte, 
and  ascended  the  plateau  beyond  jroin  which  there  is  a 
fine  view  of  Denver  and  the  surrounding  country.  The 
pkiteau  is  iu  liigh  tiltli,  being  irrigated  by  canals  brought 
from  the  Platte  on  the  south,  and  Clear  creek  on  the 
north.  The  crops  look(Ml  fine,  but  we  had  no  time  to 
make  a  critical  examination  of  their  mode  of  cultivation 
and  irrigation,  as  the  sun  was  setting.  Finally  turning  in 
at  the  gate,  wc  foxind  onrsi'lvt\s  in  Mr.  IV'rrin's strawberry 
patehj  and  were  aliundanlly  siijtplied  with  fruit.  But 
without  halting  wo  dro\i-  down  the  jdateau  and  across 
Clear  creek,  hert^  one  hundred  and  fifty  feet  wide,  three 
feet  dee]),  and  running  with  such  fearful  velocity  as  threat- 
ened to  sweep  carriage  and  horses  down  with  the  tor- 
rent. 

On  the  plain  north  of  the  creek,  and  within  tii'ty  yards 
of  the  brink,  stands  Mr.  Perrin's  roidence.  Alighting, 
we  had  Just  time  to  ij'is])ect,  before  dark,  his  highly  ctdti- 
vated  and  artistically  irrigated  vegetable  garden  of  about 
three  a(-res.  AVe  were  both  delighted  and  surprised  at 
the  large  size  and  vigorous  growth  of  every  kind  of  culin- 
ary vegetables.  As  we  are  promised  samples  of  beets, 
turnips  and  cabbages  for  exhibition  at  our  next  St.  Louis 
Fair,  our  citizens  wdll  have  an  opportunity  of  seeing  for 
themselves  what  Coloi-ado  can  do  in  the  way  of  vegeta- 
bles. Supper  being  announced,  but  as  the  distanct;  was 
about  five  n\iles  from  Denver,  the  major  jiart  of  the  party 
who  were  going  away  with  the  eastward  bound  train,  left, 
which  was  to  be  regretted,  as  the  vexed  strawberry  (jucs- 
tion  would  have  been  settled  by  the  best  proof  iu  the 
world — the  eating.     Larger,  finer-flavored  and  more  lua- 


86  OVKll   THK  I'LAl.NS  AND  (>\  THK  MOLNTAINS. 

cious  stniwberrios  I  never  tasU-.l  than  wcmv  fiiniishod  for 
desert  that  evenini;-.  1  soon  deserted  tlie  ('oin])any  and 
went  (Mit  on  the  veranchili.  It  was  now  quite  (hirk,  and  I 
Kit  down  to  be  soothed  l>y  the  ever-niiirniiii'lnf;^'  Avaters  of 
Clear  ereek,  wliicli  sweeps  around  on  two  sides — west  and 
south — of  .Mr.  I'errin's  plaee.  Oh,  it  is  a  phiee  for  night- 
dreaniiiig,  and  day-d reaming,  too!  Leavini;-,  Ave  drove 
leisurely  Iniek  to  Denvi'v,  in  tlie  splendid  eqnii^at^e  of 
Mr.  Bver^,  ot  l!ie  Henvei-  Ai  <'■.•<,  wliere  we  arrived  liefure 
the  dei)arture  ot  our  friends.  ^ 

At  Jialf-])ast  nine  wi>  took  leav*'  of  the  major  j^arlofoui" 
partv,  who  were  i-eturnini;  home ;  l)nt  there  Averi'  twelve 
of  us,  who  thout^ht  that  it  would  not,  he  entin-Iy  satisfac- 
torv  to  come  l,O!)0  mill's  to  see  the  great  tem])le  olWature, 
and  then  turii  l>a<!c  alU'r  having  only  entered  its  vesti- 
liule.  Besides  the  Houlder  County  Agrieultui-al  Associa- 
tion, the  only  one  in  the  Territory  that  had  acknowledged 
our  presence,  had  extended  to  us,  by  a  committee  on  the 
day  of  our  arrival  in  Denver,  a  cordial  invitation  tu  visit 
Boulder  ('ity.  This  invitation  a  few  of^is  had  at  once  ac- 
cepted, and  cons(^quently  the  committee  had  gone  back  to 
make  l!ic  necessary  an-angemen1s.  This  engagement  we 
now  determined  to  fulfill,  and  this  incident  determined  the 
point  of  our  mountain  excursion  and  movements  wliilc  we 
remained  in  the  Territory.  Boulder  City,  in  a  direct  line 
from  Oenver,  is  but  twenty-eight  miles,  })ut  the  railroad 
traversing  tw<>  sides  of  a  triangh',  makes  it  Ibrtj- 
seveii.  The  Boulder  Valley  railroad  meets  the  Denver 
Pacitic  at  Hughes,  seventeen  miles  northeast  <d'  Denver; 
thcnc«?  to  Eric  is  seventeen  miles  more — as  far  as  the  road 
is  now  comjileted — and  thence  twelve  miles  by  stage  to 
Bouldrr  City. 

At  Kri*;  i>  a  vrjn  <i|  i-xcellent  coal,  twcdvi'  I'-fi  thick. 
The  Kansas  J^wific  railroad  ta]>pcd  this  coal  by  a  road 
from  Hughes',  Init  tin?  grading  i>  now  done,  and  the  ties 
are  being  rapidly  laid  uj)  to  Boulder  City,  the  road  to  be 
c-omj)b'te<l  b\-  till-  time  of  tlie  Boulder  Fair,   in  September 


OVER  THK  PLAINS    AND  ON  THE  MOUNTAINS.  87 

This  voiii  of  coal  coiitirmcH  iij)  lo  Boulder  twelve  milc«, 
Avhcro  it  is  thirteen  feet  thiek,  and  where  four  other  veins 
-exist,  namely:  one  twenty,  one  fonr  and  a  half,  one  five, 
4vnd  another  seven  leet  thick.  'JMie  next  day  when  wo 
jirrived  at  Erie,  we  found  our  Boulder  friends  waitin«}j  with 
><pring  wagons,  liacks,  buggies  and  oarriages  to  convey  ufl 
to  Boulder  City,  a  distance  of  twelve  miles  over  the 
jtlains. 

The  road  is  on  a  j)latt'HU  or  teiwace,  south  of,  and  Hlight- 
]y  elevated  above  the  ])laiii,  through  which  runs  Boulder 
Oreek.     Far  down  northeast  as  the  eye  can  reach  towards 
Greeley  the  shimmering  waters  of  Boulder  Creelv  can  be 
j^oen,  or  their  direction  traced  by  a  straggling  line  of  Cot- 
tonwood and  a  dark  green  belt  of  from  tive  to  seven  mile«« 
wide,  of  wheat,  rye,  barley  and  corn  fields,  irrigated  by  its 
•waters.    Midway'  between  you  and  the  mountains,  and  some 
half  a  mile  north  of  the  creek,  is  White  Eock,  looking  like 
a  liugc  snowbank,  a  conspicuous  object  from  all  the  j)lain 
around;  and  immediately  opposite,  on   the  soutli  side  of 
the    creek,    is  A^almont,   one  of  tliose   sporadic  })uttes  of 
orupted  basalt  occasionally  found  on  the  i)laiu  along  the 
foot  of  the  mountains.     It  is  300  feot  high,  rising  some- 
what fn  the  form  of  a  haystack,  and  at  its  base  occupies 
about  an  acre  in  area.     It  terminates  in  a  curious  basaltic 
column,  curved  somewhat  like  a  horn  leaning  northward. 
At  its  foot  is  the  village  of  Yalmont.     Yalmont  Mill  stands 
A  few  rods  northwest,  and  bevond  the  Boulder  is  White 
Jvock  Mill.     As  soon  as  the  mill  is  passed  Boulder  City, 
on  the  Plains  at  the  foot  of  the  mountains,  and  five  miles 
distant,  comes  into  full  view.     Here  also  the  South  Boul- 
der joins  the  main  stream.     The  country-   between   horo 
and  the  mountains  is  all  under  cultivation,  covered  with 
farmhouses  surrounded  by  the  finest  farms,  irrigated  bv 
the  waters  of  the  two  Boulders,  wliieh  issue  from  their 
mountain  defiles  at  jxdnts  about  five  miles  distant  from 
<iaoh  other. 

We  soon  pass  the  Atfricultural  Fairgrounds,  forty  acres 


88  f.VKR  THE  PLAINS  ANI>  ON  THE    MOTTNTArNS. 

with  the  ncccs^jiry  buikhiigs,  ihf  ulx'h^  iiicloHedby  a  tight- 
fence.  Just  Tiortheast  of  J^oulcicr  is  one  of  those  remarka- 
ble benclu's  or  terraecs  already  spoken  of,  surrounded  on 
all  sides  by  a  plain  rising  about  thirty  feet  high.  It  is  an 
oblong  ellipse,  ha\'ing  its  transverse  diameter  at  right 
angles  to  the  mountain  chain.  Tt  contains  about  fifteen 
acres,  ;iiid  has  been  selected  for  the  site  of  tlu^  State 
University  when  Colorado  becomes  a  State. 

Arriving  at  Boulder  we  were  received  at  tlie  ('ijlorado 
]fou.«5e    by  tin*  citizens  en  masse,  and  addressed   in  their 
bi'halfby  .Judge  Berkley,  tendering  to  us  the  hospitaliites 
of  the  eity  during  our  stay,  and  oflcring  to  place  at  our 
(lipposal  conveyan<.'es  to  visit  any  p(jint8  of  interest,  either 
around  the  fity  or  in  the  mountain  canyon,  that  wo  might 
desire.     I,    by  arrangement,  responded  to  the  reception  ^ 
upeech,  as  the  Denver    Tribune  reportei",  flatteringly  no 
doubt,  said,  "in  very  appropriate  terms,"  thanking  the 
citizens  for  the  distinguished  honor  conferred  upon  us,  but 
declining  in  behalf  of  the  Missouri  and  Kansas  delegation 
the  generous  offer  of  free  rides  ad  libitum.     In  a  country 
where,  to  us,  there  Avas  so  much  novelty,  so  much  to  inter- 
est, and  such  sublime  and  magnificent  scenery,  the  offer 
was  entirely  too  generous  and  the  inducement  too  groat 
"to  rido  a  willing  horse  to    death;"  wo  therefore   most 
gratefully  declintMl  it,  and  placed  ourselves  at  their  own 
disposal,  to  visit  only  sueh  ])laces  as   they    might   deem 
most  interesting. 

After  a  dinner,  sumptuous  enough  for  ])i'inccs,  we  were 
driven  around  the  suburbs,  visiting  some  of  the  adjacent 
farms,  examining  the  condition  of  the  growing  crops,  the 
canals  and  ditches  for,  and  the  method  of  irrigating,  pick- 
ing the  most  luscious  strawberries  we  ever  saw,  and  end- 
ing by  a  drive  np  to  the  mouth  of  Boulder  canyon,  to  see 
the  bead  of  th<- irrigating  canals  which  begin  in  the  canyon. 


OVKR    TliK  I'l-AINS  ANU  ON  THK  MOUNTAIN^;. 


80 


and  branch  offboth  right  :uul  h-fl  from  ib(^  cnM^k  as  soon 
as  it  enters  the  plain. 

Thft  wearv  >^un  '^'^1  made  a  qoklen  ect. 
And,  by  the  1)ri!j;lit  track  of  his  tiery  car, 
Gave  token  of  a  goodly  day  to-morrow. 

The  citizens  now  liacl  settled  that  on  the  next  day  they 
would  give  us  a  picnic  uy)  in  Ikjulder  canyon;  and  fio  we 
retired  to  rest  with  bright  anticipations  ofto-niorrow. 


-90  OVJitt   Xllii  rL.UNS  AMJ  UN  XUK  MOUNTAINS. 


CIIAPTEK  VIII. 

Frorii  peculiar  mctoorolo<;ic'iil  causon,  ■which  it  is  not 
necossan'  here  to  .state  or  exphiin,  dew  never  falln  on  the 
Plains  adjacent  to  the  mountains.  A  morning's  walk 
therelbre,  can  be  enjoyed  without  iiicurriiii^  the  drawbacks 
of  wet  feet  an<l  soiled  garments,  and  without  having  the 
Hpecter  of  chills  and  fever  Hitting  constantly  Ix'foro  your 
eyes.  Then,  too,  the  sky  is  always  so  bi-ight,  the  air  so 
])ure  and  exhilarating,  the  songs  of  strange  birds  so  charm- 
ing, the  mui-muring  of  the  mountain  torrents,  dashing  head- 
long down  the  plain,  so  soothing,  and  the  scenery  so  bold 
and  captivating,  that  ears  and  eyes  are  never  satiated. 
Stolid  and  phlegmatic  must  be  the  nature  of  that  man,  or 
woman  either,  who  here  can  act  the  Hluggard,  where  Na- 
ture puts  on  her  gayest  attiro  and  most  majestic  mien,  as 
well  as  displays  her  wildest  and  most  phantastic  forms. 

Under  such  influences  and  Impulses,  even  at  the  risk  of 
disturbing  the  ti-auquility  of  our  host,  the  Eev.  Nathan 
Thompson,  and  his  estimable  lady,  whose  hospitality  we 
were  enjoying,  Mrs.  T.  and  I  were  up  early,  and  out  lor 
a  morning's  ramble  up  to  the  mountains  and  along  their 
ba«e,  to  drink  in  health  from  the  ])ure,  invigorating  moun- 
tain air,  and  ins])iration  from  the  wcenery  surrounding  us. 

Mr.  Thompson's  house  stands  about  one-third  of  the  way 
up  tht^  slope  of  a  terrac<Hl  plateau  that  lies  against  the 
mountains,  extending  from  JJoulder  canyon  to  the  first 
gulch  north,  distant  from  the  mountain  at  this,  the  iiirthest 
point,  about  4U0  yards.  Ijike  all  these  elevated  plateaux, 
it  is  ]>erfectly  level  on  the  top  j  but  the  slopes  are  as 
neatly  and  as  smoothly  rounded  off  as  if  done  by  hand. 
ThoMO  benches,  as  they  are  here  called,  art-  unquestionably 


(»VI:K    THK  i'LAIN.S  AM)  o\  THK  MOUXTAI.NS.  91 

the  remiiins  ('fubra.sion.s,  records  of  events  Ion,"  nnterior 
to  the  cxi.slenee  of  man,  when  the  jient  n])  "wuteix  t)f  moun- 
tain hikes  hroke  thi'OUi^h  the  roeky  barriers,  an<I  insuiniij 
from  the  t>;nh'lies  ami  caiiyons  with  irrisistibli>  foree  de^ra- 
dedthe  plain  to  its  j)resc!nt  h^veh  The  .sh)j>e  rises  with  an  an- 
gk'  of  about  thirty  (h-^rees  with  the  horizon,  and  the  summit 
of  the  bench  is  about  forty  feet  above  the  level  of  I  he  plain. 
j\ljf.  Thompson's  luMise  stands  near  tin-  noi-th  end,  and  his 
church  (( 'oniji;rei2;ational)  on  the  smitli  end  of  a  tive  acre 
lot,  Iviiiir  airainst  this  ben(;h  oi\  tlie  east  sidi-.  vVbove  and 
highci"  than  the  toj)  of  liis  house  and  alouii;  the  edge  of  the 
level  summit  of  the  bench  is  an  irrigating:;  eanal  carrying 
from  Boulder  canyon  a  rapid  stream  of  w\ater  live  feet 
wide  and  thirty  inches  deep.  Up  to  this  canal  and  along 
its  margin  northwestwardly  lay  our  morning  walk. 

From  the  plain  on  the  top  of  this  bench  the  view  is 
charming,  and  in  any  other  country  than  this  would  be  en- 
titled to  the  terms  grand  and  magnificent.  West  and  north- 
west the  ])recipitous  walls  of  brownish  jiorphyritic  rock  ris- 
ing from  the  edge  of  the  jjlain  to  the  height  of  from  1500  to 
•4000  feet;*  mostly  nude,  but  incidentally  at  many  places 
there  are  narrow  terraces,  bearing  evergreen  shrubs  and 
dwarf  pine*  cedar  and  spruce  trees.  Southwest  is  Boulder 
canyon,  an  imraensel}"  deep,  narrow  rift  in  the  mountain  ; 
.and  beyond  it  rises  a  most  singular  protuberance,  oblong, 
rugged  and  imposing,  to  an  altitude  of4000  feet  and  more. 
Its  roof-shajjed  top  starts  from  terraces  on  both  the  east 
and  west  sides,  and  runs  up  as  steep  as  the  steepest  roof  of 
a  gothic  church  for  some  600  feet,  the  ridge  running  north 
and  south.  But  what  is  most  singular,  along  the  eastern 
terrace  rise  no  less  than  six  abutments,  looking  for  all  the 


"■  "Tht'  si't>ii(>rv  iilo  igthc  flunks  of  tlir-inoiintnins  h  wnndprtully  unique, 
«n(l  I  havo  not  seen  n  similar  example  in  ihe  Jlorkv  Mouniuiri  rci^iotu 
The  uplift  is  on  an  unpiirahclcd  s(;;(le.  The  iiiounhiin  wmII,  ;i  treinen- 
(doin  uplift  of  niet:(ra(irpho-((Hl  sand-stone  rises  4000  fi^et  nhove  Boulder 
VMlley  on  the  plnin*;  Wlow,  and  their  rU2:<;ed  summits  projeet  far  over 
on  the  ^rauilic.riiHikr  '«"est^k■a^d.  '"  I'rof.  Jlor/Jeu'i  O'olirru-al  ri-port  of 
JS6P- 


92 


OVK't    THE  rL.\INS    SVP  ('S  THK  MOrKTAFN' 


world  liko  pilawloi's,  extending  aV)ove  the  terrace  and  ter- 
tninutini^  in  shurp  qua(lran<]i;alar  })yrami(i^,  sotne  tlireo  hun- 
dred ari<l  lifty  tlict  hi<;h.  S<iuth  of  this  siriiiinhir  mountain 
is  Boar  (i'il(!i,  a  correct  engravini^  of  whieh  can  bo  seen  in 
"  ViewH  f.-(»iu  Xatiire.  "  Beyond  Bear  Guleli  risos  another 
high  mountain,  round-topped  and  dome-shaped,  ending  in 
a  narrow  ptsalc  Idee  a  sow'.s  teat.  This  closes  the  mountain 
view  80uth  froni  this  poinl. 


'.^:M' 


IJOCLi^i^K. 


Turn  now  your  face  towards  the  easl.  'I'o  yom-  right, 
Houthcasfward,  3011  see  a  bench  aI)Out  Ibui'  mihjs  distant ; 
there  i-i  Mai*^!iall's  coal  mine,  and  near  this  bcncli  on  the 
plain  arc  Hcen  the  sparkling  waters  of  South  Jioulder 
creek.  That  building  beside  it  is  ^Marshall's  iron  works. 
Then,  on  the  intervening  plain,  are  Been  farm-hou>iC8  and 


OVER  T3IK  PLAINS   AND  ON  TUB  MOUNTAINS.  93 

green  licldi  uj)  to  tli'i  main  Boiildor  creek,  ii  dashing 
mountain  torrent,  Juysleniiig  (lovva  tlie  jjiain  to  embrace 
her  Bister  stream.  At  yimr  feet,  !>et\vecn  the  elevation  on 
which  you  Ktand  and  the  creek,  is  Jkudder  City,  which 
3^ou  entirely  overk^ok,  extending  jiorthward  on  tlio  plain 
between  you  and  the  Univeraity  plateau,  Avhich  lies  im- 
mediately eah*t.  J)own  on  the  plain  eastward  in  tlu;  dis- 
tance, is  Heen  Mr.  J)ay's  and  other  ranchos,  on  the  South 
Boulder.  Then  there  is  the  fine  lake  between  the  two 
Boulders,  formed  since  the  plain  has  become  irrigated,  now 
■well  stocked  with  fine  fish — Tuostly  ])ci'ch  and  redhorse. 
Nearer  still,  the  house  in  that, dense  coppice  is  the  resi- 
dence of  Judge  George  Berkley,  the  oldest  and  most  en- 
thusiastic tree-planter  in  the  Territory;  and  nearer  still 
come  the  fair  grounds,  with  its  inclosed  buildings.  But 
over  all,  and  beyond,  is  seen  that  singular  butte  or  J)asa!- 
tie  dyke,  Valmont,  raising  its  isolated  cone  on  the  jjlain  j 
and  to  thedeft  of  it,  that  white  object  liko  an  immense 
snow  bank,  is  White  llock. 

In  the  northeast,  at  a  distance  of  about  ten  mile^,  is  seen 
Haj'stack  Mountain,  another  of  those  isolated  basaltic 
cones,  that  at  long  intervals  are  found  protruding  from  the 
level  plain.  Those  buildings  near  its  base  are  the  vil- 
lages of  Burlington  and  Longmont — the  latter  a  new  colony 
from  Chicago — organized  somewhat  on  tlie  principles  of 
that  at  Greeley.  Around  these,  and  extending  up  to  the 
mountains,  are  seen  ranches  and  green  fields,  and  the  un- 
cultivated plain  covered  with  cattle.  This  gives  a  some- 
what faint  idea  of  the  scenery  from  this  ])oint,  to  which 
must  be  added,  to  complete  the  ])icture,  the  light  green 
color  of  the  plain  as  compared  with  the  sombre  ever- 
greens which  deck  the  porphyritic  sides  of  the  mountains. 

As  w^e  were  strolling  leisurely  towards  the  mountain, 
plucking  flowers  and  examining  the  pebbles  for  moss 
agates,  our  attention  was  suddenly  drawn  to  the  thrilling 
notes  of  the  slcylark  (^remo;)/u7a  cornuta)',  notes  which 
for  compass  and  silvery  sweetness  of  tone  are  inimitable 


94 


OVKH  TIIK  IM.AINS    A\I>  «'\  TlIK  MOTVTAINS. 


and  unapproachabK^  I'V  any  other  songster.  Tliero  ho  sat 
on  the  i'cnvc  halfway  ildwii  tho  slopu,  and  again  and  again 
ho  would  pom-  out  his  silvei'v,  ringing  notos  on  tlio  morn- 
ing air,  that  almost  aAVokc  tho  sleeping  echoes  of  tho 
mcnmtains.  As  wo  walked  on,  ho  would  fly  ahead  <and 
t;ike  his  ]>osition  ou  t'le  l\'nce,and  jxuirout  his  nuitin  song 
:»>;  if  ill  triumph.      When  wo  retui-nod  ho  lollowed  \:s,  and 


MOL'lIl  OK  liOULDKU  (AN  YON. 

repeated  more  and  moro  rapidly  his  eharnung  song, 
hcomingiy  striving  to  excel  lus  fii-st  efforts.  At  last  his 
notes  seemed  mingled  with  tho  sadness  of  despair,  becom- 
ing louder,  sweeter  and  tenderer,  hut  touched,  as  it  wore, 
with  tho  anguish  of  a  heartrending  B(;rraw.  At  this  mo- 
ment I  ppied  hii  mato  dodging  tlirough  tho  grass;  and 


OVKK    THE  PLAINS  AND  O.V  THE  MOUNTAIN8.  96" 

now  I  uiidur,st(jO(I  liis  htrun^fd  conduct,  and    tin;  caubo   of 
hifl  alurni  and  distresH. 

Our  host  now  ajipcared  in  wight  ciillini^-  ns  to  brealcfaat, 
so  wo  huiTied  on,  irrcatly  to  the  relief  of  our  feathered 
friend.  ^lay  hf  live  a  tliousund  years  and  raise  a  brood 
of  sonc;Hter.s  every  month  ! 

After  breakfast,  returnint^-  to  the  hotel,  we  f<jund  car- 
riageH,  buggies,  spring  wagons,  ete.,  collcu'ting  to  convey 
u.s,  and  baskets  and  trays  tilled  with  luxuries  to  add  to 
our  enjojMiient,  and  minister  to  our  comfort  during  the 
oxcui'sion  \i\>  the  canyon.  When  all  was  ready  th(^  train 
of  some  twimty  wagons  and  coaches  moved  off  toward  the 
mountain  detlle,  up  which  lay  our  route,  into  tho  heart  of 
the  Cordilleras.  The  mouth  of  the  canyon,  where  it 
opens  on  the  j)lain,  is  about  one  hundred  feet  wide,  and 
tho  ascent  of  the  canyon  walls  on  cither  side  exceeds  but 
little  fifty-five  degrees.  Tho  acclivities  are  sparsely  cov- 
ered with  stunted  pine  and  cedar  trees,  growing  on  huge 
rocky  angular  terraces,  that  jut  out  all  over  the  sides  of 
the  walls.  On  the  top  of  tho  wall,  amongst  evergreens, 
occasionally  stands  a  tall  pine  or  spruce  tree  blasted  by 
tho  lightning.  The  scenery  is  rugged  and  wild  in  every 
imaginable  sense.  The  creek,  a  stream  discharging  fully 
throe  times  the  quantity  of  water  our  Meramcc  river 
does;*  flows  rapidly  Mroi/^/Zi  not  over  its  rocky  bed,  for 
the  shall)  rocks  project  in  every  direction  from  one  to  four 
feet  above  the  water.  The  water  purls  and  frets,  and 
foams  as  if  in  a  rage  at  the  obstruction  imposed  by  the 
rocky  barriers,  but  otherwise  it  is  dark,  being  prevented 
by  its  rapid  flow  and  agitation  from  ivflecting  either  the 
canyon  walls  or  tho  narrow  strip  of  blue  sky  above.  The 
road  and  tho  stream  mostly  occupy  the  full  width  of  tho 
canyon,  but  occasionally  a  largo  rock  crowds  the  stream 
into  narrow  limits  and  against  tho  opposite  wall;  thon 
thero  is  a  little  headland  used  for  tutmouts,  where  ascend- 


*Meramec  river  in  Missouri. 


0^  OVKK  XriK  Pi.\I>S    A-VD  0\  THK  MOI.'NTAIXS. 

ing  timl  drHConciinii  team.s  piii»«  ouvh  otluT.  When  not  so 
used,  tlioso  licadland.s  forma  nestling  place  for  numerous 
mountain  flowers.  Amoni^st  entirely  now  flora,  I  here 
found  a  splendid  red  lily,  us  lary;e  as  u  <'Ui),  (  Lillium  Phila- 
dilphiciim,)  and  the  most  showy  of  all  the  mountain  flow- 
ers, the  Epilobixnn  angxixtifoUiun,  forming  plots  of  brilliant 
rosy  j)ur]do  flowers. 

As  the  course  f)f  the  eajiyon  is  zig-zag,  it  often  narrows 
«o  as  seareely  to  afford  room  for  the  waters  to  pass ;  the 
roadway  is  then  blasted  out  of  the  perpendieular  side  rock 
of  the  canyon  wall.  Jf  this  side  rock  (as  is  generally  the 
case)  is  a  jjrojecting  ])romontory  of  a  mountain  peak  rent 
in  twain,  then  there  is  left  a  fissured  rode  from  one  to  two 
thousand  feet  high  hanging  overhead,  that  any  moment 
may  tumble  down,  or  iVom  its  sides  send  down  an  aval- 
anche of  rock  into  the  abyss  below.  Vou  instinctively 
hold  your  breath  until  it  is  ])ast.  Xow  you  come  to  a 
bridge,  (  for  there  are  thirty-one  of  them  in  twelve  miles), 
leading  to  tl»e  narrow  beach,  eight  or  ten  feet  wide,  on 
the  oj>posite  side,  Avhile  the  river  dashes  its  foaming 
waters  against  the  perpendicular  cliff  three  thousand  feet 
high,  on  the  side  you  are  leaving.  All  you  see  of  sky  is 
now  reduced  to  a  narrow  band  overhead.  You  look  uj) 
tJie  sides  of  the  canyon,  and  in  crevices  in  the  flank  of  tlie 
walls,  or  on  jjrotruding  rocks,  grow  shrubs  of  ])ine  and 
spruce,  wliile  their  summits  are  crowned  with  sturdy  ever- 
grocns,  who  for  centuries  have  battle<l  with  the  storms 
an'l  delicd  the  artillery  of  lieaven,  not  with  impunity, 
however,  as  many  a  liglitning  scarred  or  dead  one  attests. 
Iligli  over  all  is  seen,  wheeling  in  liis  airy  flight,  the  gol- 
den «iagb',  who  finds  Ids  congenial  home  her'' 

"  On  tl»(;  mountains  tliat  j>roflftim 
The  cvfrlasting  creed  of  liberty.  " 

Miles  are  thu.s  passed,  the  scenery  becoming    grander 
axvd  more  imposing  at  ever}-  step,  and  the  flowing  of  the 


OVER   THK  PLAINS  AND  ON  THE  MOUNTAINS.  97 

■water,  now  all  foam,  JiLso  more  impctuou-s.  Suddenly  tho 
canyon  wulln  for  aa  instant  recede,  for  man  has  invaded 
and  profaned  the  Hanctity  of  the  place.  There  stands  his 
puny,  busy  mill  turning  into  plank,  shingle  and  lath  tho 
brave  old  giants  of  the  mountain  forest.  On  tho  right, 
too,  there  are  indications  of  his  proHence  ;  for  from  tho 
rocky  chasm  of  a  cleft  mountain  issue  the  turbid  waters  of 
Four-Mile  creek ;  turbid  because  miners  are  washing  tho 
auriferous  sands  of  the  gulch  in  its  limpid  waves. 

But  this  interruption  is  only  temporary.  Coy  Nature, 
that  fled  tho  contaminating  presence  of  man,  returns  with 
more  commanding  presence  and  majestic  mien  than  ever, 
to  avenge  the  interruption  by  displaying  sublimcr  forms 
and  more  imposing  and  awe-inspiring  grandeur  and  wild- 
ness.  The  river  roars  and  pitches  moi'o  furiously  than 
ever  J  there  hangs  the  beetling  cliff,  higher  and  more 
threatening  than  before ;  and  there,  too,  the  graceful  fir 
lifts  high  its  head  into  the  light  of  the  sun,  250  feet  above 
the  roaring,  foaming  waters  that  rave  at  its  roots. 

It  seemed  now  as  though  Xature  miujt  have  exhausted 
her  stores  of  wonders  to  astonish,  amaze  bewilder  and 
overwhelm,  and  drawn  upon  her  last  resources  for  exciting 
enthusiasm  and  exalted  emotions;  but  not  so.  The  magic 
panoi-ama  moves  on,  and  we  enter  a  mountain  defile,  sun- 
dered by  some  great  natural  convulsion,  of  j^erpendicular 
walls,  scraggy  and  naked,  three  thousand  feet  high,  over- 
hung by  pines  and  cedars.  It  am  easily  be  taken  for  a 
huire  stair-case  walled  in,  such  as  might  have  been  built 
by  Titans  and  Cyclops  for  ascending  Olympus,  the  reei- 
dence  of  tho  gods;  and  that  the  jets  and  fountains  in 
which  nymphs  and  goddesses  disported  themselves,  fiillen 
into  decay,  were  pouring  down  their  waters  over  the  dilapi- 
dated steps;  for  the  river  here  descends  a  steep,  rocky 
declivity.  The  waters  are  no  longer  foam,  but  spray,  and 
their  roar  is  deafening.  You  look  ahead  whence  they 
<'ome,  but  the  canyon  13  closed  up  by  a  transversal  per- 
pendicular wall,  with  no  sign  of  an  outlet,  forming  appar- 
7 


98  OVER  THE  PLAINS   AND  OX  THE  MOUNTAIN'S. 

cnily  a  complete  cut  de  sac.  Again  and  again  is  this  re- 
peated. The  -walls,  •when  perpendicular  and  solid,  are 
always  naked ;  but  when  full  of  fissures  and  crevices,  they 
are  conij)letely  hid  bj^  evergreen  shrubs,  and  decorated  as 
evenly  and  as  neatly  as  the  ivy  decks  the  dilapidated  cas- 
tles of  Europe. 

Turning  the  angle,  the  scene  now  changes.  The  accliv- 
ities of  the  walls,  instead  of  perpendicular,  are  but  75  or 
SO  degrees,  then  the  sides  become  a  thicket  of  spruce  sap- 
}»lings  thirty  or  forty  feet  high,  and  completely  ])idc  the 
side  rocks,  forming  a  green  wall  as  you  look  up  the 
canyon.  Immense  spruce  trees  also  stand  in  the  bottom, 
of  the  canyon,  sometimes  alone  and  then  in  groups.  Thus 
at  every  turn,  and  in  every  instant  of  time  the  scenery 
changes  and  new  and  startling  forms  present  themselves. 
Yi)U  are  now  opposite  the  embouchure  of  the  j^orth  Boul- 
dc)'.  Vou  look  up  a  dark  deej)  rift  in  the  mountain  side, 
overshadowed  by  trees  and  partly  hid ;  you  sec  at  the 
distance  often  rods  a  white  sheet  of  water  pitched  west- 
Mard  a<ross  the  chasm.  This  is  the  rebound  of  the  falls 
of  the  Xorlli  Boulder  from  a  shelving  rock.  AVe  will  visit 
them  on  our  return. 

Up,  up  we  go  (for  the  acclivity  uji  Avliich  our  road 
leads,  oi"  rather  the  declivity  down  which  the  river  flow^s, 
ascends  for  twenty  miles  at  the  average  rate  of  210  feet 
]>cr  mile,  but  here  it  is  4G9  feet  per  mile).  The  chasm 
now  ior  a  short  distance  becomes  heavily  timbered  Avith 
fir  and  pine,  and  its  sides  very  rugged,  then  intermits  and 
Itecomcs  narrower  and  bolder.  Huge  rocks  obstruct  the 
passage  of  the  water.  It  pitches  over  some  and  forms  a 
series  of  cascades,  othei's  deflect  it  and  dash  it  against  the 
]>crj»endicular  Avail  of  the  canyon,  whence  it  rebounds. 
^,'loser  aii<l  closer  the  canj'on  contracts,  and  higher  and 
stcej)er  arise  its  walls.  A  dense  grove  of  spruce  trees, 
naiTOW  and  tiipering  as  church  steeples,  and  two  Hundred 
and  fifty  feet  high,  crowded  each  other  so  closely  as  to  fill 
up  the  entire  chasm  between  the  walls,  completely   shut- 


OVER  THE  PLAINS  AND  ON  THE  MOUNTAINS. 


99 


ting  out  the  light,  iind  shrouding  everything  Avitli  twilight 
gloom  at  noonday.  Tho  imposing  grandeur  of  the  appear- 
ance now  may  bo  fairly  conceived,  but  not  realized,  when 
to  this  solemn,  almost  dismal  scenery,  is  added  the  milk- 
white  waters  of  the  river  rushing  doAvn  tho  rocky  decliv- 
ity, dashed  hither  and  thither  by  the  obstructions,  roaring 
and  casting  their  spray  in  your  face. 


EAGLE  CLIFF,  BOLXDEll  C-VXYON. 

Anon,  the  scene  changes.  Light  lireaks  ia  and  dis- 
l)0rses  the  gloom;  and  the  canyon  is  clear  again  of  trees, 
excepting  the  long,  tapering  spruce  sapplings  that  run  up 
and  seem  to  lay  against  its  walls.  But  look  !  twenty  rods 
ahead  a  perpendicular  mountain,  three  thousand  feet  high, 
is  thrown  across  the  canyon  at  right  angles,  and  there 
seems  no  possible  outlet  from  it.      But  soon  a  break  is 


100  OVKa   THE  PLAINS  AND  OX   THK  MOUNTAIN-3. 

soon  to  unfold  itself  towards  Iho  lofl;  and  on  turning  the 
ani^lo,  tlie  cnnyon  walls,  instead  of  continuous  rock,  are 
composed  of  dissovrri'd  mountains,  crowded  against  each 
other,  varvin<j;  from  1,')00  to  3,000  feet,  yometimes  expos- 
insji;  larire,  cragiz;}-,  naked  rocks,  and  at  other  times  clothed 
with  evergreens  to  their  summits.  To  the  left  is  what  aj)- 
jteaiM  as  the  half  of  a  huge  red  granite  raountiiin,  verti- 
cally clet\  from  top  to  bottom,  whoso  perpendicular  wall 
rises  fully  2,000  feet  high.  About  six  hundred  feet  from 
its  top  is  seen  a  small  speck  which  wo  arc  assured  is  an 
eagle's  nest  in  a  cavity.  Mr.  Fitch,  from  lioston,  who  ac- 
companied us  from  Denver,  had  with  him  a  field  glass, 
which  was  brought  into  requisition,  and  lo  !  sure  enough, 
there  is  the  eagle  upon  the  nest. 

But  on  wo  go  silent,  abstract  and  thoughtful,  now  on- 
tranced  by  an  overhanging  crag,  then  stai'tled  by  a  beet- 
ling clilT,  and  spell-bound  by  the  stupendous  vastness,  in- 
imitable grandeur  and  awful  sublimity  of  Nature's  works 
around  us.  Suddenly  our  revery  is  broken  by  a  commo- 
tion in  the  advance.  The  men  rise  to  their  feet  and  swing 
their  liats,  and  the  ladies  are  waving  their  liandkerchiefs, 
there  is  shouting,  but  it  is  drowned  by  the  roar  of  the 
waters.  To  make  us  understand  what  was  the  matter, 
fingers  are  pointed  to  a  culminating  dift'  to  the  right. 
Turning  our  eyes  in  the  direction  indicated,  upon  a  prom- 
inent rock,  and  under  a  pine  leaning  over  the  precipice, 
stood  a  bighorn,  or  Kocky  Mountain  sheep  (  Oi'is  Mon- 
tana)  against  the  blue  sky,  and  fully  1,500  feet  above  our 
heads.  It  was  a  large  buck,  and  he  gave  us  side  views, 
both  by  turning  his  head  to  look  at  our  advance,  and  rear. 
AVe  found  the  attem])t  vain  to  make  noise  enough  to  fright- 
en him  from  his  commanding  position. 

Finally  we  reached  the  objective  point,  as  far  as  tho 
party  was  concerned,  this  was  Castle  Iiock.  Hero  our 
j)icriic  was  to  take  jdace  in  an  alcove  in  the  rock.  Thia 
recess  is  some  forty  feet  wide  and  sixteen  to  eighteen 
feet  deep.     Clotlw  were  spread  on  the  sandy  floor,  bas- 


OVER  Tin;  ri.AIN.S    and  hN  THK  M()L"KTAIN8. 


101 


kcta  and  trays  were  unpiickod.  Thcro  m-uk  lioiK-U  luim 
and  buffiilo  tongues,  roasted  chickens  and  turkeys,  togeth- 
er with  any  amount  of  cakes,  pies,  custards  and  tarts,  and 
all  washed  down  with  lemonade  made  from  the  icy 
waters  (for  the  snows  are  hut  three  miles  distant)  of  the 
Boulder,  which  sweeps  by  within  twenty  feet  of  our  re- 
treat. 


CAS1T.E  KOCK. 

But  what  of  Castle  Rock  ?  Why_,  of  this  it  is  enough 
when  it  is  said  that  it  is  an  object  worthy  a  trip  across 
the  continent  to  see  it.  It  stands  right  across  the  direc- 
tion of  the  Boulder  con\ing  down  from  the  snowy  moun- 
tains. Vrhen  within  fifteen  feet  of  it.s  base,  the  stream  de- 
flcK'ts  houtheastwardly,    until    it   sti'ikes    the    ^outli    wall, 


10'2  OVER  THK    I'LAINS  AN'I)  ON  TIIK  MOUNTAINS. 

which  it  follows  until  it  meets  a  perpcndioular  rock  1,800 
feet  hii^h,  stanilin;^  at  riji^ht  au'^lo-s  to  the  south  wall.  It 
is  then  dcllectdl  bade  to  tlic  northwest  strikiuLij  the  north- 
eastern base  of  Castle  Kock.  Here  the  brid-i-o  crosses 
Ironi  the  opposite  side,  and  the  road  winds  around  the 
base  of  this  wonderful  ri)ck.  On  the  northwest  side  is  a 
f;a]),  throui^h  which,  at  a  former  period  pei'haps,  the  Boul- 
der tlowed.  It  is,  ])(.rhaps,  a  hundred  feet  wide,  reaches  to 
within  one  hunthvd  ami  fifty  feet  of  the  base,  and  sepa- 
rates Castle  llock  from  the  north  wall  of  the  canyon.  This 
Avail  is  here  hardly  more  than  1,200  feet  hii;-h,  while  the 
southern  one  is  f.Uly  1,500.  This  latter  is  nearly  perpen- 
dicular, but  the  everu;reens  with  which  it  is  cover  'd  from 
top  to  bottom,  make  it  look  as  smooth  and  rc<j;ular  as 
thouifli  it  had  been  ti'imnicil  with  shears.  The  perpendic- 
ular rock  tliat  meets  it  at  ri<;-ht  angles,  is  red  granite,  and 
entirely  bar*'. 

The  area  of  tlie  base  of  Castle  Eock  is  less  than  half  an 
acre,  but  its  altitude  is  over  800  feet.  The  Court  House 
in  St.  Louis,  fn)m  the  pavement  to  the  ball  on  toji  of  the 
dome,  is  196  feet.  The  imposing  appearance  of  Castle 
Rock  can,  therefore,  be  imagined.  Standing  on  a  base 
not  150  feet  square,  yet  rising  to  the  enormous  altitude  of 
more  than  four  times  the  distance  from  the  pavement  to 
the  brass  ball  on  the  St.  Louis  Court  House.  Its  distance 
from  Boulder  Citv  Is  thirteen  miles. 

The  engraving  from  a  ])hotograph  taken  at  a  point  up 
the  c;inyon,  gives  a  good  idt-a  of  the  ai)pearance  of  this 
singular  rock.  It  is,  however,  on!^-  a  view  of  the  upper 
part  of  it,  commencing  say  800  feet  above  the  base. 

But  we  must  here  terminate  our  vain  and  futile  attempt 
to  describe  Bonliier  Canyon — an  object  that  is  absolutely 
indcscribabb'.  "So  langiuigo  can  do  justice  to  its  awful, 
Hublime  and  grand  scenci-y.  Here  is  immense  variety  and 
Btupcndou««  vastncss  combined  with  all  the  elements  of  the 
grand,  the  beautiful  ami  the  sublime,  which  no  mortal  pen 
can  describe  or  ])encil  delineate;  yet  the  whole  presented 


OVER  THE  PLAINS   AND  ON  THE  MOUNTAINS.  1)3 

with  such  niiiiiiicd  and  austere,  3'et  lovely  simplicity,  that 
it  strikes  every  beholder  with  awe,  delight  and  arnazemeiit. 
We  have  read  of  Alpine  scenery,  and  of  the  Voseniite  Val- 
ley, and  we  have  both  read  of  and  seen  Niagara  Falls, 
Delaware  Gap  and  the  passage  of  the  Potomac  through 
Blue  Ridge;  and  we  pronounce  Niagara  Falls,  Delaware 
Gap  and  the  passage  of  the  Potomac  as  tame  and  common 
place,  when  compared  with  the  scenery  of  this  fearful  and 
wonderful  canyon  ;  and  unless  writers  on  Alpine  scenery 
and  of  the  Yoseniite  Valley  lack  command  of  the  resources 
of  our  language,  they,  too,  will  suffer  by  the  comparison. 
We,  therefore,  assert  confidently,  that  for  majestic  presence 
to  excite  powerful  emotions  of  veneration  and  awe ;  for 
wild,  stern,  and  startling  ruggedness  to  impress  fear,  and 
for  sublimity  and  grandeur  to  fill  the  soul  with  inspiration 
and  enthusiasm,  Boulder  Canyon  stands  without  a  peer  or 
even  a  rival  in  the  world. 

I  will  only  relate  one  of  the  many  incidents  that  show 
its  magic  effect  upon  visitors,  though  many  might  be 
related  that  oecuri-ed  to  our  own  part}-.  Soon  after 
entering  the  canyon,  my  attention  became  completely 
absorbed  and  spellbound  by  the  immensity,  sublimity  and 
wildness  of  the  scene  that  was  unfolding  to  view.  The 
ladies  occupying  the  open  barouche  with  me  thought  I 
was  listless,  and  was  missing  it  all.  Hence  there  was  a 
continual  call  on  me  of,  Oh!  look  here!  (),  there,  etc., 
which  I  must  confess  annoyed  me  not  a  little.  But  the 
grandeur  soon  became  so  sublime  and  overwhelmingly 
powerful  that  they  were  filled  with  unutterable  emotions 
and  awed  into  silence.  Abstract  and  staring  wildly  at  the 
magic  scenerj-,  grander  and  vaster,  that  was  constantly 
unfolding  itself,  they  were  incapable  of  any  effort  except 
to  wave  the  hand  slowly  in  the  direction  of  the  object  on 
which  their  eyes  were  fixed  spellbound. 

Here  we  took  leave  of  all  our  Kansas  friends,  who 
returned  homo,  while  the  Missourians  pitshed  on  to  the 


1C4  OVER  THK  PL-MNS   AND  OX  THE  MOUNTAINS. 

mincvs  and  8now  fields,  hiiicher  up  and  doepor  in  tho  rocossos. 
of  the  niounlains.  * 


♦  Since  tlii.'*  wivt  writton  I  havo  roooived  t'lo  IcvelHngj  of  tho  railroad 
furwv  niH'lo  up  tho  ciinyon  during  the  summer  wliich  is  as  follows  : 

Istmilofromli.mldcrCitv,  ISt  feci;  2ndmil^  12().l ;  Srdmilo,  98.8  ; 
4th  mile.  175.8;  5th  niilo,  128.:'.;  C.ih  mile,  180.0;  7th  mile,  20-'>.l ;  8th 
mile  to  Fall^ofN.Bouldor.  331.3;  9th  mile,  4')9.4;  10th  mile,  183;  11th 
■ule,  &5.5  ;  I'ith  laile,  129.G;  13th  mile  to  Castle  Kock,  150.21. 


OVER  TUK  PLAINS  AND  ON  THE  MOUNTAIK.S.      105 


CUAPTKR  IX. 

As  already  stated,  we  took  leave  of  our  kind  Boulder 
for  the  present,  and  of  our  Kansas  friends,  perhaps  forever, 
at  Castle  llock.  The  latter  expressed  themselves  satisfied, 
yea,  more  than  satisfied  at  having  seen  what  it  falls  to  the 
lot  of  but  few,  the  most  varied,  picturesque,  <rrando.st,  most 
imposing  and  sublimest  work  of  Natui-e,  and  of  having 
experienced  such  sensations  and  emotions  as  only  such  a 
work  Ciin  excite  and  inspire.  If  the  Italians  can  say,  "  See 
Naples  and  then  die,"  they  felt  tliiit  with  emotions  of  a 
higher  order,  they  could  say,  ''See  Boiildor  canyon  and 
Castle  Ilock  and  then  die,  for  the  world  holds  nothing  be- 
sides that  combines  so  nmch  of  every  element  of  beauty^ 
irrandeur  and  sublimity  as  they." 

We  Missourians  hired  conveyances  to  take  us  up  to  the 
tx)p  of  Caribou  mountain,  to  inspect  the  silver  mines  there. 
Our  party  was  now  reduced  to  Judge  Moore,  of  Franklin 
county ;  B.  Smith  and  wife,  of  Crawford  county,  and 
myself  and  wife,  from  St.  Louis. 

It  was  about  four  o'clock  wdion  we  started,  and  the  dis- 
tance about  seven  miles  to  Caribou.  The  canyon  soon 
widens,  and  instead  of  bare  perpendicular  rocky  walls,  the 
Btream  is  flanked  on  both  sides  by  mountain  ranges,  some- 
times running  parallel  with  the  banks  of  the  stream,  but 
generally  the  ridges  or '"  hog  backs"  abut  on  the  stream 
at  right  angles  to  its  course,  and  have  the  general  trend 
north  and  south,  of  the  Cordilleras  at  this  ])oint.  They 
are  heavily  timbered  with  pine  and  fir,  and  rise  but  to  a 
moderate  height,  say  from  700  to  1000  feet  above  the 
valley.  Occasionally  a  high  cone  is  seen  in  the  distiinco 
protruding  from  one  to  two  thousand  feet  above  tJie  sur- 


10*)  OVER  THE  PLAINS   ANO  O.V  THE  MOUNTAINS. 

rouiuliiig  peaks.  Wore  it  not  for  these  si^oradic  cones,  the 
scenery  otherwise  woukl  remind  one  of  the  wildest  portion 
of  the  Alleghanies,  except  that  the  "  hog  backs  "  (a  very 
expressive  and  descriptive  term)  never  have  a  length  of 
more  than  five  or  six  times  their  width.  The  canyon  now 
has  become  a  valley,  with  from  five  to  forty  rods  of  arable 
land  on  one  or  the  other  side  of  the  stream,  and  the  moun- 
tains measui-eably  give  way  to  high  hills  covered  with 
everucreens  and  buftiilo  i/:rass. 

Signs  of  beaver  now  a])pear.  Here  on  both  sides  of  the 
road  stand  the  stumps  of  trees,  six  to  ten  inches  thick, 
gnawed  otf  last  fall  to  build  their  winter  duni,  which  is 
here  close  by,  as  you  see,  cut  through  recently  by  the  ac- 
cumulated waters  of  the  melted  snows  of  the  present  sea- 
son.    Yonder  they  hfld 

"  Reared  their  little  Venice ;  " 

lodires  from  10  to  18  feet  in  diameter  and  from  0  to  8  feet 
Idgh,  resembling  huge  mud  ovens.  Their  interior  is  said 
to  be  about  seven  feet  in  diameter  and  from  two  to  three 
feet  high.  Their  beds,  separated  from  each  other,  are 
made  of  grass  or  fibers  of  bark,  and  are  placed  around 
the  walls  of  lodges,  leaving  the  space  in  the  center  unoc- 
cupied. That  deep  ditch  around  the  lodges  is  the  moat 
made  so  deep  that  water  never,  freezes,  giving  egress  and 
ingress  to  the  lodges.  In  it  also  they  lav  up  a  store  of 
wood,  the  l)ark  of  which  serves  them  for  food  in  winter, 
while  the  wood  after  the  bark  is  gnawed  off  is  used  for 
repairing  their  dams  when  needed.  The  lodges  are  cov- 
ered with  boughs  of  evergreens  woven  and  matted  together, 
lined  and  well  stufled  with  moss  and  grass,  and  the  whoU 
covered  with  mu<l.  It  is  said  that  oven  amongst  the  beav- 
ers there  are  lazy  fellows  who  will  not  work,  refusing  to 
assist  in  building  lodges  or  dams  or  to  cut  wood  and  peel 
bark  for  winter  ])rovender.  The  industrious  ones  beat 
these  idle  fellows  and  drive  them  away;  sometimes  even 


OVEK  THE  PLAINS  AND  ON  THE  MOUNTAINS.  107 

disgracinj^  tliem  by  lopping  off  a  part  of  tlieir  tails.  Tliese 
^'  Paresseux"  as  tlie  French  trappers  call  tlicm,  that  i.s, 
'Mazy  fellows,"  arc  more  easily  caught  in  traps  tiiau  the 
otliers,  because,  I  sup2)ose,  being  juore  in  want,  they  are 
more  reckless. 

New  flora  also  appears.  The  Thennopsis  moniana  Avith 
its  large  raceme  of  papilionacious  yellow  flowers,  dwarf 
Dodecatheon,  with  intense  purple  blooms;  the  delicate  Iris 
tenax,  and  the  Polygonum  bisforta,  with  its  white  oblong 
head,  are  abumlant  on  the  grassy-  glade,  or  along  the  banks 
of  spring  branches  flowing  from  the  juountain  sides.  ]iirds 
were  quite  numerous.  Amongst  old  acquaintances  I  no- 
ticed the  silent  lark,  the  chipping  and  tree  spari'ow,  the 
robin,  red-headed  woodpecker,  common  dove,  some  war- 
blers and  fl}'  catchers.  The  following  arc  the  principal 
ones  amongst  the  new  species:  the  mountain  song-spar- 
row, green-tailed  and  Lincoln's  finch,  two  kinds  of  grousti 
(the  gray-mountain  ami  dusky),  the  long-crested  and 
Woodhouse's  jay,  both  much  larger  aiid  handsonicr  tlian 
our  blue  ja}',  the  Ilocky  Mountain   niagjiie,   cte. 

The  first  dwelling  is  that  of  Abel  (loss,  a  young  couple 
from  Xew  llampshin\  who  have  here  a  pleasant  mountain, 
ranchcj  an<l  a  few  miles  beyond  is  Brown's,  now  called 
Middle  Boulder,  where  a  large  new  tavern  is  nearly  fin- 
ished. Here  we  met  Col.  J],  O.  Cuttei-,  superintendent  of  the 
Caribou  Mining  (.'ompany,Avho  is  hci'C  engaged  in  erecting 
smelting  works  to  cost  about  $150,000  for  the  com- 
pany. Here  there  is  a  cross  road  leading  from  Central 
City  to  the  Ward  mining  disti-ict,  north,  near  the  base  of 
Long's  Peak.  The  Colonel  gave  lis  a  letter  of  introduc- 
tion to  Mr.  ^Martin,  who  superintends  the  mining  opera- 
tions at  the  lode,  requesting  him  to  give  us  eveiy  facility 
for  inspecting  the  mines,  and  that  he  himself  would  be  up 
in  the  morning  if  he  could  leave. 

The  valley  now  spreads  out  to  a  considerable  distance 
and  the  bottom  land  would  be  as  level  as  an  Illinois  prai- 
rie, were  it  n<jt  for  the  ridges  of  the  old  beaver  dams  that 


108  OVKa  THE  PLAINS    AND  ON  THK  MftLVTAINS. 

every  fifteen  or  twenty  feet  lie  across  it.  from  one  moun- 
tain flank  to  the  otlier  ami  the  lAd  hcavi-r  lo(lij;es.  These 
ridges  are  made  of  trees  and  sapplin<is  cut  down  and 
dragged  iiit(»  phice  by  these  animals,  the  upper  limbs  all 
cut  oil"  and  woven  in  below,  and  then  the  whole  filled  in 
with  small  stones,  bark  and  mk^'^s,  ami  covered  with  earth. 
Tt  is  only  whei-e  the  water  has  broken  through  them  that 
vou  can  see  their  structure.  Thev  are  even  vet  from  two 
to  five  (l-et  high,  and  four  to  eight  feet  wide.  Their 
leniTth  varies  with  the  widtli  of  the  vallev,  but  some  ot 
them  are  iully  two  hundred  yards  long. 

A.S  we  were  leaving  the  valley  to  ascend  the  Caribou 
llountiiins  to  cnir  letl  at  the  liead  of  the  glade  and  south  of 
the  Boulder,  we  saw  a  high  rugged  mountain,  some  half  a 
railo  distant,  whose  side  was  covered  with  a  field  of  snow  of 
considerable  size.  The  mountains  on  the  north  also 
crowd  in  on  the  creek  above,  and  as  the  sun  had  descend- 
ed behitid  their  peaks,  the  dark  green  of  the  j)ino  and  firs 
that  cover  t^icir  sides  gave  the  scenery  a  sad  and  gloomy 
appearance.  Above  and  over  hc^ad,  coming  in  from  Long's 
Peak,  on  the  north  now  also  atipf^ars  a  narrow  storm 
cloud,  from  which  at  intervals  dai't  forked  lightning,  and 
the  r(jar  of  the  thunder  with  its  reverberating  echoes  i'rom 
pciik  to  ])eak  is  as  grand  as  it  is  terrifi(;.  I  gazed  up  at  the 
low  cloud  with  wonder  and  amazement.  1  nstead  of  a  hazy, 
ill-defined  outline  and  enveloped  in  fog,  it  looked  so  pure 
and  crystalline  that  I  could  not  help  imagining  it  carved 
out  of  solid  ice,  so  distinctly  were  all  the  outlines  of  its 
involutions  and  convolutions  nuirked,  and  then  it  was 
almost  rondered  transparent  by  the  sunlight.  I  observed 
this  same  a])pearanco  on  other  occasions  while  in  the 
mounUiins.  It  is  only  in  case  of  te-rrific  storms  that  any- 
thing at  all  resembling  it  can  bo  seen  "in  the  States." 
With  this  difference,  however,  that  the  cloud  is  dark  and 
gloomy,  instead  of  crystalline  and  almost  trans])aront  as 
here. 

The  road  is  very  steep  from  where  it  hsavos  the  valley 


OVEtt  THE  PLAIXa  AND  ON  TETE  MOUNTAINa.  109 

of  tho  Boulder  to  Caribou  City,  rising  at  the  uverago  grade 
of  five  hundred  and  fitly  foot  to  tho  mile.  It  slopes  up 
wcstwiirdly  along  tho  south  nido  of  a  mountain  whoso  do- 
clivity  is  inipractieahlo  for  anything  except  a  Jiighom. 
Yet  HO  dense  is  the  spruce  forest  on  tho  side  that  for  some 
hundred  feet  below  the  road  tho  forest  has  been  felled  to 
let  in  tho  sun  to  melt  tho  winter  snow  from  the  road  iu 
the  Spring.  A  few  daysbefoi'o  we  passed  there,  a  lire  had 
«wept  up  the  mountain  side  amongst  these  felled  trees 
leaving  nothing  but  their  blackened  trunks,  and  doing 
immense  dama<j:e  to  the  beautiful  forest.  Soon  Cardinal 
City  is  reached,  a  hamlet  of  some  dozen  of  houses,  mostly 
built  since  the  fire  of  the  blackened  trunks  of  trees,  and 
some  of  them  covered  with  nothing  but  spruce  branches. 
Here  are  two  very  rich  and  promising  lodes  j  the  Trojan 
and  the  Boulder  county  lode.  The  former  averages  $16<) 
per  ton,  about  equally  divided  between  silver  and  gold, 
sometimes  one  predominating,  sometimes  the  other.  It 
is  not  yet  fully  developed  being  only  one  hundred  feet 
deep.  Boulder  county  lode  is  owned  by  Colonel  Cutter 
and  Mr.  Conger.  Shaft  twenty-five  feet  deep,  its  ores  aj-o 
zinc-blend  and  argentiferous  galena.  More  specimens  of 
native  silver  have  been  taken  from  this  mine  than  any  in 
the  district.  Some  eight  or  ten  other  lodes  in  the  vicinity, 
we  were  told  by  Mr.  Adolphus  Livernash,  an  assayer  who 
has  Ids  log  cabin  here,  assay  from  lo2  to  2-13  ounces  of 
silver  per  ton.     They  are  mostly  argentiferous  galena. 

After  leaviuiT  Cardinal,  we  ascend  another  mountain 
spur  which  lies  to  our  right,  while  to  our  left  lies  a  moun- 
tain gorge  perhaps  1000  feet  deep,  beyond  which  rises  an 
extremely  steep  mountain.  Tho  gorge  and  mountain  aro 
covered  with  a  dense  forest  of  spruce  trees,  in  which  a  fir© 
is  raging,  the  flame  often  rising  high  above  their  tops. 
Near  the  western  terminus  of  this  mountain  is  a  snowfiold 
reaching  from  tho  top  to  its  base.  AVe  had  now  ascended 
to  sunlight  again,  for  through  a  gap  between  two  bald 
heads  in  the  Snowy  Range,  about  four  miles  distant,  the 


no 


OVKR    THE  PLAINS   ANP  OX  TIIK  MOrNTAlNS. 


sun  pourcil  a  flood  of  Golden  light.  The  spent  storm- 
cloud  now  showered  down  a  few  largo  drops.  I  looked  up, 
and  from  the  nearness  of  the  cloud  couhl  see  the  drops 
from  the  time  they  left  the  cloud.  They  looked  like 
a  shower  of  ]>carls,  ruhy,  opal  and  amethj-st ;  but  when 
they  hit,  made  one  wince  by  their  icy  touch. 


CAKIUOL. 

The  mountain  spur  we  are  ascending  ik)w  deflects  north; 
and  west  be^-ond  the  narrow  valley  lies  a  liog-back,  heav- 
ily covered  with  spruce,  whose  culminating  point  is  at  the 
head  of  the  valley,  northwest.  This  hog-back  is  Caribou 
mountain.  Against  this  culminating  point,  and  in  the 
head  of  this  valley  lies  Cai-ibou  City,  of  some  200  houses. 
The  town  has  been  built  since  spring  set  in.  The  houses 
are  frame,  many  two  stories  high,  made  of  spruce  and  pine 


OVER   THE  PLAINS  AND  ON  TIIK  MOUNTAINS.  Ill 

plank  sawed,  hy  the  mounluin  mills.  Xoia  brush  of  paint 
liad  been  applied  to  any  of  them  when  wc  were  there. 
There  are  two  streets  well  built  up  running  longtitudinally 
with  the  direction  of  the  vallej^  Above  the  town  from  un- 
der a  bluff  issues  a  fine  mountain  spring,  m  which  is  a  spout, 
and  from  which  the  greater  pai^t  of  tlie  citizens  obtain 
water.  In  the  accompanying  engraving  the  log  house  in 
the  foreground  is  just  below  the  spring.  The  view  is  down 
the  valley  and  taken  from  the  road  leading  to  the  Caribou 
lode  on  top  of  the  mountain. 

AVe  put  up  at  the  Planters'  House,  kept  by  Capt.  W.  O. 
Logue,  a  former  steamboat  engineer,  a  captain  in  the 
Union  army,  and  long  in  the  employ  of  the  McCord. 
Brothers,  of  St.  Louis.  As  soon  as  Ave  had  stow^ed  away 
our  luggage,  all  of  us  belonging  to  the  masculine  gender, 
started  north  over  the  mountain,  to  the  nearest  snowbank. 
As  an  evidence  of  the  rejuvenating  effect  of  the  mountain 
air  and  climate  upon  the  human  system,  I  will  state  that 
though  we  were  all  on  the  shady  side  of  sixty,  yet  we  in- 
dulged, boy-like,  in  a  real  hcai'ty  snow  balling. 

We  went  over  the  mountain  ridge  in  a  northeastern  di- 
rection, but  the  culminating  point  on  which  is  the  Caribou 
lode,  is  northwest,  and  about  a  third  of  a  mile  distant 
from  town.  Where 'we  crossed  we  found  the  whole  top  of 
the  mountain  perforated  with  shafts  and  prospecting  pits. 
All  the  shafts  sunk  last  fall  were  filled  Avith  the  drifting 
snows  of  the  winter;  some  were  yet  even  full  of  snow, 
and  undisturbed.  At  others  the  miners  were  engaged  in 
cleaning  out  the  snow,  and  in  others  this  had  been  done 
and  the  work  of  mining  Avas  progressing.  Within  a  circle 
one-half  mile  from  town  there  are  no  less  than  seventy 
lodes;  fifty-six  pay  well,  and  all  would  pay  if  there  were 
means  for  reducing  the  ores.  But  the  nearest  reduction 
works  are  at  Black  Hawk,  twenty  miles  distant.  They 
are  owned  by  Prof.  Hill,  who  buys  ores  at  his  own  price. 
He  also  buys  only  the  better  grade,  because  the  supply  is 
abundant. 


112  OVKR    TUB  rUVINd  AND  ON  THK  MOUNTAINS. 

Fox'  this  roivson  the  lower  grades  are  neglected  and 
many  mines  f:iil  of  being  developed  because  the  miners 
cannot  dispose  of  the  ores.  I  liave  heard  it  stated  no  ore« 
will  pay  that  do  not  yield  eighty  ounces  of  silver  per  ton, 
because  the  mill  men  will  charge  some  tliirty-five  dollars 
for  reducing  them,  to  which  is  to  bo  added  at  least  ten 
dollars  for  hauling,  making  altogether  forty-five  dollars, 
which  leaves  thirty-five  dollars  to  the  miner.  Two  men 
working  together  in  sinking  on  a  pay-streak,  will  raise  on 
an  average  two  tons  of  ore  per  week,  making  their  wages 
thirty-five  dollars  per  week,  from  which,  hoAvever,  must 
bo  deducted  the  wear  of  tools  and  powder  fur  blasting. 
The  average  cost  of  mining  per  ton,  with  proper  facilities, 
where  the  lodes  are  fully  developed,  including  wages,  etc.,  • 
is  about  6")  15,  and  when  operations  are  carried  on  on  a 
large  scale,  30  per  cent,  less^  Colonel  Cutter  thinks  the 
actual  cost  of  reducing  a  ton  of  ore,  ought  not  to  exceed 
67  50  per  ton.  At  present  the  mines  can  be  made  to  pro- 
duce five  times  the  quantity  that  can  be  reduced  at  the  re- 
duction works  when  completed. 

The  reduction  works  already  sjioken  of  as  in  procosa  of 
erection  at  Middle  Boulder,  two  and  a  half  miles  below, 
will  not  afford  any  relief  to  the  Caribou  mines,  since  tlio 
Caribou  and  other  lodes  owned  by  the  company  that  in 
erecting  the  works,  will  alone  supply  all  the  ore  it  can 
work.  There  are  more  than  ninety  lodes  open  in  Boul- 
der county,  but  there  is  not  a  single  mill  nor  reduction 
work  in  it,  while  in  (lilj)in  county  there  are  twenty-six, 
and  in  Clear  Creek  county  some  twenty  mills  and  reduc- 
tion works  in  operation.  The  result  is  that  mines  aro 
well  developed  there,  and  ores  reduced  of  such  low  grade 
as  only  yield  from  §20  to  824  per  ton.  The  reason  tliero 
arc  no  facilities  at  Caribou  for  reducing  the  ore,  is  bocauBO 
all  the  lodes  Jiavo  been  discovered  within  the  past  year, 
except  the  Caribou,  which  was  discovered  in  September, 
1860. 

The  Caribou  mines  alono  can  furnish  ore  enough  to  nm 


OVER    THK  PLAINS  AND  ON  THE  MOUNTAl>i».  lid 

a  dozen  stamp  mills ;  and  hero  is  a  fine  opening  for  an  im- 
mense fortune,  by  erecting  a  first-elass  smelting  furnace  at 
Boulder,  where  the  best  quality  of  coal  in  the  Territory 
oxista  in  unlimited  quantities. 

Prof  Hill,  of  Brown  University,  ii.  I,,  went  to  Black 
llawk  a  compai-atively  poor  man,  some  three  or  four 
years  ago,  and  invested  some  $8,000  in  a  smelting  furnace. 
He  is  now  a  millionaire.  lie  reduces  the  ores  to  what  is 
called  "matte,"  which  is  packed  up  and  sent  to  Swansea, 
in  Wales,  where  the  precious  metals  are  separated  from 
the  base.  Prof.  Hill  receiving  all  the  gold  and  silver,  and 
the  English  company  retaining  the  chopper  and  \ciid  ob- 
tained from  the  "  matte  "  for  their  pay. 

Our  evening  ramble  took  us  around  the  Caribou  moun- 
tain westward,  and  then  over  its  top  back  to  town.  lu 
this  ramble  I  performed  the  feat  of  gathering  snow  with 
one  hand  and  plucking  flowers  with  the  other,  which  J 
had  often  heard  could  be  done,  but  about  which  I  wa«t 
somewhat  incredulous.  The  flower,  which  I  preserve  in 
my  herbarium  as  a  momento  of  the  fact,  is  that  of  the 
Vaccinnium  myrtillus,  a  species  of  blueberry.  We  found 
the  northwest  side  of  the  mountain  to  be  the  wall  of  North 
Boulder  canyon.  We  could  hear  the  roaring  of  the 
waters  about  a  thousand  feet  below  iu=i,  but  could  not 
see  it,  the  view  being  obstructed  by  the  dense  grove 
of  spruce  that  line  the  declivity. 

The  north  wall  of  the  canyon  is  the  southeastern  side  of 
a  peak  of  the  Snowy  Range.  The  trend  of  the  peak  is  a 
little  west  of  north,  and  on  its  eastern  side  lays  an  im- 
mense snow  field,  reaching  to  the  summit.  Tliis  is  caused 
by  the  west  winds  drifting  the  snows,  as  they  fall,  to  the 
leeside  of  the  mountain.  Up  to  the  hight  of  the  Caribou 
mountain,  this  wall  was  densely  covered  by  dwarf 
spruce  and  pine,  some  even  standing  within  the  margin  of 
the  snow  field.  Above  the  "  timber  line  "  and  on  the  we«t 
side,  the  peak  was  bare;  and  being  covered  with  the  vel- 
vety buffalo  grass,  it  looked  ILko  aa  ordinarv,  smoothJy 
8 


J  14  OVKH    TOE  I'LAINS  AND  ON  TUK  MOUNTAINS. 

rounded,  ;rrrtt>sy   but  steep  hill.      No  rocks  can  be   seen- 
protnulinL;;  irom  its  sides  above  the  timber  liiie. 

1(8  apparent  distance  from  U8  seemed  not  to  exceed  a 
stone's  throw,  but  we  were  assured  in  a  direct  line  it  was 
more  than  a  mile;  and  to  ejet  to  the  point  opposite,  some 
three  miles  had  to  bo  traversed.  Beino;  now  tolerably 
posted  a>  to  the  deceptive  appearances  of  distance  in  this 
region,  yet  while  we  were  looking  at  it,  and  following 
with  the  eye  the  margin  of  the  snow  lin»i  toward  the  sum- 
mit, some  one  jestingly  ])roposcd  to  ascend  it.  I  replied,, 
"No,  we  Avill  leave  it  for  to-morrow,  and  do  it  uj)  before 
lireaktiist. "'  At  this  a  miner,  hid  in  the  s])ruce  thicket, 
and  whom  we  had  not  noticed  before,  volunteered  the 
kind  advice  :  -  Vou  had  belter  take  your  breakfast  first, 
and  your  dinner  along,  On-  you'll  have  a  late  sujipei-.  " 

This  incident  recalls  another.  While  standing  on  the 
summit  of  Caribou  mountain,  T  said  to  .Tndge  Moore, 
"Judge,  have  you  observed  with  how  much  ease  and  IVec- 
dom  y<)U  can  talk  here,  and  how  Konorous  and  ringing  the 
voice  is«?  "  No  sooner  were  the  words  out,  than  Mr^ 
Smith,  who  was  fully  one  liundred  yards  distant,  re])lied, 
"  I  expect  tliat  is  the  reason  you  talk  so  much  nonsense 
here."  The  ex[)lanation  is  very  simple.  In  the  caissons 
of  the  St.  Tiouis  bridge,  those  persons  who  went  down  in 
them  remember  the  difficulty  there  was  in  s])caking,  or 
making  yourself  heard.  There  the  air  was  compressed 
and  consequently  the  effe(!t  was  the  reverse  of  the  effect 
hero,  whcro  the  air  is  expanded  by  the  altitude.  The  bar- 
ometer hero  stood  19:o2,  showing  that  the  atmosphere  had 
<»nly  about  two-thirds  of  the  density  as  on  the  seashore, 
or  in  other  words,  that  the  mountain  was  over  two  miles 
high.     It.s  bight,  as  received  here,  is  11,300  feet. 

(Jn  the  following  morning  the  barometer  stood  19  52 
inches — th(5    boiling    point  of  water  was  191. S   degrees.. 
Following  the  u>-ual  fomiula  for  deducing  altitude  from 
these  rfaM,  the  bight  of  the  mountain  would  be  11,280  feet. 
It  must,  however,  be  stated  that  at  the  time  the   electric 


OVER   TIIK  PUUNK  AM)  ON  THE  MOUNTAINS.  115 

-toDHiori  ol  the  mountein  was  greai.us  was  evinced  by  the 
biiHhy  appearance  of  the  tails  of  the  horses,  and  also  by 
the  hair  ol'  our  heads  }KVvin<>;  a  tendency  to  stand  out 
Kti*ai^ht.  This  electric  condition  was  ibllowcd  by  a  moun- 
tain storm  in  the  afternoon.  Probably  an  allowance  of 
one  inch  in  barometric  pi-essui-e  should  be  inade  lor  this 
e1ectri(!  condition  at  the  time  j  still,  it  Avould  leave  the 
mountain  over  10,000  feet  high. 

Apropos,  this  rarity  of  the  atmosphere  makes  itself  felt 
in  the  breathinij^  of  all  animals.  We  had  to  give  the 
liorscs,  on  ascending  the  mountain,  their  own  time,  lor  if 
urged  they  soon  commenced  })anting  for  breath,  and  had 
to  stop.  The  miners  hero  walk  slowly,  and  never  feel 
any  in('onvenience;  but  "greenhorns, "  like  ourselves,  in 
trying  to  rush  up  the  mountain,  soon  find  their  "wind" 
tailing.  I  felt  no  inconvenience,  until  walking  ra])idlyup 
a  steep  terrace,  only  some  six  or  eight  jjaces,  and  then 
found  1  had  either  to  sit  downi  or  fall  down.  A  miner 
gave  me  this  direction  :  "Whenever  j^ou  find  your  breath 
failing,  stop  and  turn  your  back  to  the  mountain.  Two 
or  three  breathings,  and  you  are  all  right  again."  1 
found,  in  following  it,  invariabh'  an  almost  instant  relief. 
When  we  reached  the  tavern,  a  little  after  dusk,  I  found 
Mrs.  y.  sitting  by  the  stove  and  fanning,  complaining  she 
could  get  no  breath.  The  landlady  assured  her  it  would 
be  all  right  by  morning.  It  is  said  that  the  few  who  ai'o 
tluis  affected  by  the  rarity  of  the  air,  find  themselves  en- 
tirely relieved  of  the  difficulty  atYer  a  stay  of  a  few  houi-s. 


ll«5  OVKR  THK  PLAIN'S    AND  OX  THK  M0UNTALN6. 


CHAPTETl  X. 

As  wo  woro  1(1  roUirn  to  HouMfi-  liy  evening,  wo  re- 
solved to  utilize  the  earliest  beams  of  light  in  pursuing 
our  investigations  of  the  mines,  their  character  and 
method  of  working  thcni.  Aceordingly  ^ve  were  up  even 
before  twilight  ha<l  completely  dispersed,  and  out  on  the 
mountain  amongst  the  mines.  At  all  the  well  developed 
mines  the  ores  had  been  separated  by  an  expert  and  class- 
itied,  and  all  the  first  class  taken  away  or  locked  up. 
"NVhere  they  had  facilities,  the  second  class  were  also 
locked  up  in  houses  to  prevent  depredations.  We  found 
many  excavations  just  commenced;  these  we  examined 
critically,  to  ascertain  by  what  signs  and  appearances 
the  nuners  were  guided  in  their  prospecting.  We 
had  taken  with  us  samples  obtained  at  the  mines  of  the 
rock  carrying  the  lowest  grade  ores;  with  these  we  com- 
pared the  surface  rock  at  the  newly  oy^cned  prospecting 
pit8,  and  came  to  the  conclusion  that  signs  of  metaliferouij 
veins  were  either  very  obscure,  or  that  it  required  a  culti- 
vated and  experienced  eye  to  recognize  and  detect  them. 
Some  of  the  new  pits  we  found,  were  developing  well  de- 
fined motaliferous  veins.  At  these  we  found  small  piles 
of  rock  showing  the  progress  of  development,  from  very 
faint  signs  to  well-defined  crystals.  Com]>aring  these 
with  specimens  of  rock  from  the  well-developed  mines, 
we  were  satisfied  that  though  surface  indications  to 
"greenhorns"  were  undistinguishable,  yet  the  metal  bear- 
ing rocks  had  well-marked  characteristics  to  distinguish 
them  from  the  nf>n-metaIiferous.  We  examined  some 
thirty  or  forty  J>aying  lodes  and  any  number  of  prospect- 
ing pits. 


OVER  THE  PLAINS   AND  ON  TIIK  MOUNTAINS.  117 

After  pa^hi^^«^  ihrouirh  tlie  iniiiiiig  _i;i'Oiui(l,  wo  went 
around  the  peak  AveHtwai-d,  lo  lake  a  ]ook  at  the  huowv 
peak  opposiU',  .seen  lln-  fveiiiii;^  iietbn',  luiw  tliat  it  had  its 
Hnowy  side  bathed  in  Miidiiihl.  Jl  was  really  a  ehannin^ 
night  to  see  the  \vhit(^  shoav  apparently  jtiled  against  an 
Intentsely  blue  sky. 

I'lishing  on  still  further,  but  soulhweslwanlly,  we  en- 
tered a  dense  pine  and  s]jrii(;e  forest,  full  of  loni;--erosted 
jays.  (  Cyanura  macrolopha,)  ]ari;-er,  and  ha\in<:-  iu>  i-osem- 
blanoe  in  ctdo)-  to  oui-  Idiie  jav. 

From  here  we  ascended  to  the  tujiof  the  laountain  to  take 
a  morning's  view  of  the  seenei-y.  West  at  fioni  a  mile  to 
two  miles  distance  lay  the  Snowy  Ilange,  running  a  little 
west  of  souUi  and  east  of  north.  The  range  sepai'ated  ns 
from  Middle  Park,  only  eight  miles  distant.  Jiut  the  onl}'- 
practical  route  thithei-  is  by  Boulder  Pass,  some  fifteen 
miles  soutliwest.  To  the  south  and  east  lay  what  appeared 
a  hilly  table  land  covered  with  a  dense  evergi-een  forest. 
At  various  distances  a  tew  isolated  cones  protruded  above 
the  surrounding  hills  fi-om  one  to  two  thousand  and  per- 
haps more  feet.  A  little  north  of  east  the  peak  of  Sugar- 
loaf  Mountain,  some  nine  miles  distant,  was  a  ])i"ominent 
object.  I  did  not  learn  the  name  of  a  very  large,  high 
cone  some  iifteen  miles  southeast.  It  ha<l  i-eally  a 
majestic  apj>earance.  In  the  northeast  Mas  another 
c-one,  but  at  some  distance,  and  apparently  not  as  high  as 
Sugarloaf,  some  seven  or  eight  miles  south  of  it.  The 
town  of  ('aribou  lay  at  our  feet  on  the  east  side  of  our 
look-out  in  a  scooped-out  valley  between  two  mountains. 
We  now  went  to  Caribou  Lcxle,  entirely  closed  in  and 
Tinder  cover,  which  lay  to  our  left  on  the  northeastern 
point  of  the  mountain.  Northwest  of  the  mine  are  the 
large  stables  of  the  mining  company  well  stocked  with 
provender,  including  corn.  As  Ave  approached  a  large 
number  of  little  vermin  Avere  seen  running  from  the  sta- 
ble Avhich  I  supposed  to  be  rats.  But  seeing  one  dodge 
iKjhind  a  large  rock,  I  kept  a  lookout  for  liim  as  f  turned 


lis  OVER  THE    PLAIN'S  AN'D  0\  TlIK  MOl.'XTAINS. 

the  (.-onior,  aihl  tlu-rc  ho  sat  erect  on  a  small  vock,  and 
iKUulliiii;  a  ijraiii  oi"  corn  in  the  most  graceful  stylo  while 
eatinii;  it.  He  proved  to  he  a  »-hi)>imiiik.  (  Tamia.s  quad- 
rivitatus),  <>r  the  fbur-stri])e(l  iiToiind  squirrel,  fully  as 
beautiful  hut  not  so  lar<;e  as  the  chipmuidv  or  fi;i'ound 
squirrtd  (  Tamias  hj-'^teri)  of  the  Eastern  States.  The  four- 
stri})ed  <jjround  squirnd  -was  diseovcred  hv  Prof.  Say,  at- 
tached to  Colonel  lioni^'s  expedition  to  the  Rocky  Moun- 
tains. .Vudohou  iri\'es  its  comparative  si/A'  at  tive-slxths 
that  of  the  I'lasirni  <liippint;;s(|iiirrel,  from  wliich  it  differs 
b}'  haviui^  four  stripes  instea<l  (d'  three. 

Finding-  that  1  had  am])le  time  before  breakfast  would 
be  ready,  I  made  a  detour  to  the  left,  and  comint;;  in  front 
of  what  I  had  taken  to  be  a  pile  of  sj)ruce  boughs,  I  found 
it  lo  }»<>  a  miner's  Iodide,  made  of  a  few  polos  laid  over  the 
i^ap  l-ciwi'tMi  two  large  rocks  and  covered  with  the  fan- 
sha]>e<l  liounhs  of  the  Abica  Enfjlemannii.  His  bed  con- 
sisted of  a  huflaio  rohe  and  some  gray  army  blankets, 
lie  was  just  rising,  and  from  his  cordial  ''good  morning" 
I  knew  ho  was  a  •'whole-souled  fellow,"  and  therefore 
sto])jn'd  to  have  a  talk'.  Ife  soon  had  a  hot  fire  to  get  his 
hreaktasi.  He  i)ut  on  his  cotfee  ]>ol,  and  from  a  ])oueh 
drew  somo  ground  coffee  Slicing  his  ba(^on,  he  ])ut  a 
shar[>  slick  thr<»iiuli  i',  held  it  in  lln^  flaiin-,  and  when 
rJ"ht  hoi  'Aould  pour  cold  water  t>n  it  lo  "  i'reshcn  it,"  as 
he  said.  He  gave  m<-  .i  history  of  his  wan<lerings  for  the 
last  twenty  year>,  when  he  left  l^ennsylvania  for  the 
mines  in  (^'alifornia.  Had  made  a  half  dozen  of  fortunes 
and  losi  lluMii  all,  but  had  now  ample  means  laid  up  for 
old  aLT''.  whenevei-  il  )night  undertake  bin).  I  asked  him 
wh\'  he  ilid  noi  take  the  World  easy  and  eiijo\-  life  now;* 
''I  i|o.'"  he  i-<-|)lie(|;  "f  lliink  Ihert!  is  no  enjovrnent  like 
the  wild,  free,  dare-devil  lilenl'ilie  mineron  ihese  moun- 
tains. •'  Here."  he  continued, ''  we  have  no  (^lasses  nor  ranks 
in  society,  but  every  true  and  honest  man  we  meet  is  at 
once  and  forever  a  friend  an'i  hrolher."  1  askeri  him  how 
Ion"  lie  had  been  Iwre.     "  About  throe  weeks,"  he  replied. 


OVER  THK  PLAINS    AND  OX  THE  MOUNTAINS.  119 

•"  1  luid  just  tijot,"  ho  continiu'd,  ''  into  Denver  from  a  very 
.siieeesst'ul  prosjieetinsz;  tour  through   New  Mexico,  when 

Mr. met  me  and  offered  nie  '  i>;rul) '  und  five  dollars  u 

day,  and  half  interest  in  what  I  uiioht  find,  to  eonie  here 
and  proHpeet  Caribou  mountain  over  lor  him."  1  re- 
marked that  1  liad  made  his  employer's  aequaintiince  in 
Denver,  and  that  lie  bore  the  rejjutaion  of  bein<x  ''very 
sharp."  "That's  so,"  said  he  "and  1  <i;ot  things  so  fixed 
before  i  left  that  convinced  him  1  was  nharp  too, 
and  knew  my  man."  "Well,  my  friend,"  said  1,  "ever 
since  daylight  I  have  been  trampiniij  over  this  mountain 
und  trying  to  find  out  what  signs  governed  the  prospec- 
tors here  in  their  search  for  mineral,  ~und  have  failed. 
^  Can   you   tell    me'i'"     "Well,"  said  he,   "in   my  twenty 

years'  t^xperience  1  have  not  seen  a  place  where  prospec- 
tors have  to  work  so  much  in  the  dark.  We  have  almost 
to  go  it  blind  here,  for  the  surface  indications  ar(^  so  indis- 
tinct. Our  experience  tells  ns  in  what,  rocks  we  need  not 
look  for  minerals,  and  alsc»  what  rocks  may  have  them, 
but  here  there  are  often  no  surface  indications  whether 
they  carry  mineral  or  not;  yet  this  is  the  richest  silver 
region  in  these  mountains." 

I  here  rose  and  left,  with  the  cordial  invitation  extended 
to  me  to  come  and  see  his  prospect  after  breakfast,  which 
I  accepted,  but  had  no  time  to  keep  my  promise.  After 
breakfast  the  whole  party,  accompanied  by  the  landlady 
and  several  other  ladies,  Avalked  np  to  the  Caribou  lode. 
Here  we  met  Mr.  Martin,  one  of  the  original  discoverers 
of  the  lode,  who  had  sold  the  west  half  to  Mr.  Breed,  of 
(Cincinnati,  for  850,000,  still  retaining  his  interest  in  the 
eastern  half,  and  superintending  the  mining  operations. 
He  received  us  cordially  and  showed  us  all  over  the  works, 
their  arrangement  and  operation,  the  separation  and  class- 
ificiition  of  the  ores,  and  liberally  furnished  us  with  ricli 
specimens.  The  ladies  then  loll  for  a  ramble  to  the  snow 
banks  on  the  north  side  of  the  mountain,  while  the  mea 
descended  the  shaft,  tlien  186  feet  deep.     The  shaft,  follow- 


120  OVTR   THK  riJ\.lNS    AND  ON  THK  MftUNTAINS. 

ing  the  lode  viin,  is  sometimos  perpendicular,  iheii  hlopos 
at  an  angle  of  about  80  degs.  east,  which  is  the  general  dip 
the  strata  here  of  all  the  lodes,  and  the  vein  runs  north- 
west and  southeast.  Tu  Clear  Creek,  (Jilpin  and  other 
counties  south,  the  veins,  run  northeast  and  southwest. 
The  descent  is  by  ladders,  and  the  place  was  daini>  from 
the  drip]>in<i;  water  of  the  side  rock  abovt;,  and  glot^my, 
notwithstanding  the  star  candles  Ave  held.  It  possessed 
no  particular  interest  nor  attraction,  and  we  were  glad 
when  we  returned  to  daylight. 

The  Caribou  is  the  great  silver  mine  of  the  mountains. 
The  Colorado  Gazetteer  says:  "It  is  not  only  one  of  the 
most  valuable  silver  jnincs  in  ("olorado,  but  amongst  the 
nohest  ever  discovered  in  America."  l^rof.  Hill  bought  a 
ton  of  choice  ore  for  which  he  ])aid  SI. S, 000.  It  assayed 
S1G,49!*,0.").  About  one  liundred  tons  of  ore  were  taken 
out  per  month  wheii  we  Avere  there,  but  it  was  not  worked 
to  its  i'ull  capacity.  Besides  the  company  are  now  mainly 
engaged  in  extending  levels  east  and  Avest  so  that  when 
their  smelting  Avorks  go  in  o])cra1ion  they  can  keep  them 
running  from  this  mine  alone,  if  necessary.  The  assays 
show  llic  f  )llowin<r  results  : 


t-i 


Pkk  Ton. 

Fniclh.-^  ore. , $1,064 

Second  class  ore C34 

Third  class  orr- ]45 

The  ladies  soon  relurncl  accompanied  by  quite  u  num- 
ber of  miners,  and  loaded  Avith  spe<jimens  given  them. 
Wc  now  lefl,  Inllowing  tlic  )( ad  of  the  miners  to  u  small 
black  swell  on  the  mountain  <;onsisting  entirely  of  black 
magnetic  iron,  which  the  miners  said  " the  clouds  kissed 
every  time  they  passed."  Wc  found  the  ore  strongly 
magnetic,  often  suspending  a  string  of  Avatch  keys.  The 
miners  proposed  to  find  me  a  r»^al  good  one,  and  at  last  sue- 
<'«ode<l  in  finding  one  weigliing  about  three  pounds  that 
BOFf.e tided  a  chain   of  no  less  tJian  six  watch  keys.     In- 


OVER   niE  PLAINS  AND  ON  THK  MOUNTAINS.  121 

Htanlly  I  Kaw  a  hammer  descending  un  it,  (sliivci-iiig  it  into 
half  a  dozen  invgincnts,  '<  Oh  !  "  1  exclaiined,  "you  have 
spoilt  it  now,"  "  O,  no,"  said  lie  that  Btruelc  it,  ta- 
king up  the  largest  fragment  and  apjdying  it  to  hm 
key,  but  the  key  lell  to  the  ground.  "(),"  said  another, 
"you  did  not  get  the  magnetic  part,"  while  trying  another 
fragment,  but  witli  the  same  result;  and  so  on  rill  every 
fragment  was  tried,  but  not  one  showed  a  tra(-e  of  mag- 
netism let\.  This  astonished  them.  One  of  them  aaked. 
"What  did  you  mean  when  you  said  you  have  spoiled 
it  now  ?  and  how  did  you  know  it  was  spoiled  't "  •'  Why," 
said  I,  "  it  is  a  well  known  fact  that  no  magnet  can  be 
ptnick  without  loosing  its  magnetism."  They  looked  at 
each  other  as  though  they  thought,  "he  is  trying  to  poke 
fun  at  us;  "  but  instantly  the  thought  struck  them  of  ver- 
it^nng  the  assertion  by  experiment.  Strong  magnets  were 
selected  and  stniek  with  hammers,  and  then  tried,  but 
every  trace  of  magnetism  had  disappeai-e<i.  "Well,"  ex- 
claimed a  half  dozen  of  voices  at  once,  "that's  a  new 
wrinkle."  • 

As  they  saw  I  knew  some  things  they  went  to  the  ustial 
extreme  of  believing  I  kn«w  all  things;  and  as  their curi- 
oeitv  had  been  excited  they  demanded  to  know  "what 
magnetism  was,  how  it  got  there,  and  whether  the  struck 
Btones  would  again  acquire  their  lost  power  '^ "  "  Well,"  I 
rejoined,  "  to  answer  your  first  question  were  to  tell  a 
long  story  of  what  it  is  imagined  to  be,  bec^iuse  I  don't 
know,  nor  does  anybody  truly  know,  what  magnetism  is; 
hut  you  can  find  out  the  answers  to  your  second  and  third 
questions  for  youj-selves.  Lay  all  the  stones  that  you 
tiavo  8tru(tk,  and  which  you  know  are  not  magnetic  now, 
on  a  pile,  and  wait  until  after  the  lightning  has  struck 
here,  or,  as  you  say,  "a  passing  cloud  has  given  them  a 
wnack,"  and  3'ou  will  find  them  all  right  again.  "  Js  that 
no?"  said  some  of  them.  Trv  and  see,  said  I,  and  if  it  is 
not  so  let  me  know  it.  They  then  piled  up  the  stones  for 
trial,  and  as  I  have  not  heard  anytliing  from  tiaem,  1  infer 


122  OVKR    TIIK  ITiVINS  AV!)  OS  THK.  MOUNTAINS. 

that  the   oxporiiuont  has  suoooedod   to  their   isatiHiaotion. 

Wo  now  roliii-iuMl  lo  the  laven^,  and  at  ohn'oa  o'clock 
8tai'to<l  to  return  lo  ijouKier.  IJiit  it  is  due,  before  ])reak- 
inu;  ofV  this  narration  hcn'e,  to  bear  unequivocal  aiuiiinqal- 
iticd  testimony  to  the  onUu*  and  quietness  of  ('aribou,  and 
to  the  Hubricty,  intellii^ence  and  nuinly  bearin<^  of  the  min- 
ers, not"  oniy  hero  but  elsewhere.  ]ii<|Uor  of"  every  form 
is  foi- sale  here,  but  there  are  no  drunken  l)roils,  i-iotiui;, 
wantonness  or  profanity. 

This  is  at  variance  with  the  common  idea  of  ihe  liabits, 
customs  and  condition  of  Hociety  in  minincj  villaires,  whi(;h 
are  re<;arded  as  oidy  a  synonym  for  any  aniouiit  of  drunk- 
enness and  rowdyism,  because  desperadoes,  roughs  and 
bullicis  are  fond  of  congregating  at  such  places.  But  1 
saw  nothing  of  this  kind  here,  nor  in  any  of  tlie  mining 
villages  I  visited  in  Colorado. 

We  stopped  long  enough  at  Cardinal  to  «^\amine  the 
Trojan  lode,  one  of  the  most  promising  iww  lodes  in  the 
(Jrand  Island  districrt,  as  the  mining  district  enclosed  by 
the  North  jind  Middle  IJoulder  creeks  is  called.  It  re- 
(teives  its  name  from  a  mount^iin  fully  one  thoiusand  feet 
high  a  few  miles  below  Caribou,  forming  an  island  in  the 
North  Boulder  which  flows  around  it  on  all  sides.  This 
mountain  is  called  the  (fraud  Island,  which  has  heeji  trans- 
ferred to  the  adjacent  mining  district.  The  Caribou  and 
Pugh  mountains  and  other  inetaliferous  cones  are  in  this 
distric-.t.  Silver  and  lead  are  the  predominating  metals  iu 
the  distri(!t,  the  mines  being  what  is  called  argentiferous 
galomvs,  though  silver  in  some  localities  is  found  combined 
wiUi  copper.  Cold  has  not  yet  been  found  to  any  great 
extent,  though  just  south  of  the  Middle  Boulder,  and  a 
short  distance!  southeast  of  Middle  Boulder  Post-otiico,  rich 
hides  have  been  discovered.  It  is  probable  that  furtlier 
explorations  oi'  the  lower  part  of  (irarui  Island  district 
will  develop  the  existence  of  this  motal  in  paying  quan- 
tities, since  it  is  surrounded  by  rich  lodes,  threo  of  which 
aro  lor*at«d  at  different  points  on  the  south  side,  Gold  Hill 


OVKR    TMK  IT.AIXS  ANO  0\  THK  MOUNTAINS.  123 

on  tlic  I'Hst,  ami  the  Wanl  niiiitvs  on  the  iiortli.  JJosiden, 
on  Four  Mile  creek,  which  has  u  course  parallel  to  the 
Xorlh  I>()iil(lfi-,  noi-th  and  east  of  the  latter,  <rulch  mining 
is  carried  on,  ]tayiiifi:  daily  from  $H  to  §1")  per  hand. 
Some  miners  were  at  work  on  a  ])lacer  on  Jieavcr  creek, 
a  branch  of  ^Middle  Jioulder,  just  south  of  the  mountain 
on  which  the  road  ascends  1o  (':u'il>ou  ;  thev  <|uit  because 
the  water  gave  out. 

The  Trojan  lode  yields   on   an    average  of  SIOO  to  $240 
per    ton.    Iialf  gold  and    half  silver,  sometimes    the  gold 
predominating  and  then  the  silver.     Th<^  vein  increases  in 
riches  as  great  depths  are  reached.      W'e  did  not  go  to  the 
Boulder  county  lode,  also  located  liere.     Prospecting   is 
also  going'  on  vigorouHl}'  and  quite  a  numher  of  paying 
lodes  have  been  discovered   here.     Between  here  and  the 
village  of  ]\ridill(i  Boulder  the  fire  was  still  raging  as  on 
the  prexious  day  in   the  tail  spruce  forest  that  lined  the 
mountain  ac<'livity  on  the  farther  sid(^  of  the  gorge  to  our 
right,  the  side  we  were  descending  having  been  completely 
swept  by  it  several  days  before.     Its  distance  from  us  was 
less  than  a  quarter  of  a  mile,  and  its  cra(^klijig  noise  and 
roaring  was  terrific,  the   flames  leaping  up  in  large  sheets 
over  the  top  of  the  forest.     It  was  a  sad  sight  to  look  at. 
Here  were  forests  destroyed  and  wasted,  that  for  several 
generations  would  have  furnished  ample  su{)})lies  of  lum- 
ber for  building  |)urposes  and  for  fuel  for  smtdting  the  ores, 
and  all  for  what?     Merely  to  clear  away  the  fallen  leaves 
80  as  to  expose  the  naked  rocks  to  the  obsei-vation  of  tlie 
])rospector.     'Vh'iH  wantonness  has  no  parallel   e.xcept  the 
folly  of  killing  the  goose  that  laid  the  golden  eifti;. 

The  penalty'  for  firing  the  woods  is  severe,  and  there 
were  fifty-one  indictments  found  against  persons  and  pend- 
ing for  the  offence  in  Boulder  county  alone.  It  is  to  be 
hoped,  if  found  guilty,  that  the  full  penalty  of  the  law 
maybe  meted  out  to  them.  On  our  descent  we  met  a 
burly  mountaineer  on  a  spirited  horse  going  up  to  Caribou. 
Mr.  Smith  recognized  him  as  Major  John  Q.  A.  Kollius,  an 


124  <iVF.Ii    [UK  ri^AlNS    AND  UN  THK  MdfXTAINS. 

old  Illinois  :u(jiiaint:iiu'0,  but  Avliom  he  had  not  seen  fur 
itumy  yours.  Jlniling  liiia,  and  a  mut'.ufl  recognition 
Takinjr  i>lace,  the  ^Eajor  insisted  that  we  iilioiild  pay  a  visit 
t<")  and  lake  dinner  at  Ids  inounlain  raneln-,  s(jme  two  nulos 
>oiitli  ol  Middle  IJuulder,  urterini;-  to  aeeonipauy  U8  buck. 
This  Ave  gratefully  declined,  as  we  had  in  the  morning 
sent  down  word  to  Goss's  lu  iiave.  dinner  for  our  party  at 
two  o'clock.  At  Jiruwn's,  or  Middle  Boulder,  as  it  is  now 
called,  we  again  met  Colonel  Cutter,  another  mountain 
KpH?cim(n  of  jihvNical  development,  robu.st  in  liealth,  and 
manl  V  vigor.  Jle  is  a  New  Yorker,  an  educated  and  intelli- 
gent man.,  and  from  his  long  residence  in  the  niouiiLains,  an 
(.Xpert  in  mining  affairs.  lie  considers  thi.s  as  one  of  the 
richcHt  mining  dist  ricts yet  discovered,  and  that  investments 
judiciously  made  and  managed  here,  eitlu-i-  in  mines  or 
reduction  works,  cannot  fail  of  being  remunerativ*-.  The 
reduction  wui-k.s  he  is  erecting  i'or  the  Carbiou  Mining 
Company,  <d'  whii'h  he  is  managing  dii'cclor,  will  be  com- 
[tleted  by  the  1st  of  September  But  the  present  activity 
in  the  minin«r  <listriet  and  the  extent  of  the  discoveries 
making,  indicate  that  liic  works  will  be,  when  complet<id, 
••ntirelv  inadequat*-  t<<  relucc  the  ores  lliat  can  and  will 
be  supplied. 

Arriving  at  Cross's,  and  liaving  a  few  minutes  to  spare 
before  dinner  was  ready,  I  followed  the  ni<mntain  branch 
rip  to  tlje  gorge  whence  it  issues,  in  search  of  new  flowei's. 
I  was  rewarded  in  finding  the  Dalea  laxijiora,  the  Thas- 
pium  montanum  and  a  new  and  perhaps  unde.scribed  Ciilia; 
boftides  any  number  of  the  dwarf  purple  J)ode<3atheon, 
Polygonum  bistoriu  and  Thermopsis  laontana. 

Mrs.  (toss  had  a  lartje  collection  of  mountain  cacti  from 
which  she  invited  us  to  help  ourselves  to  such  as  we  might 
fancy,  but  we  were  not  provided  with  means  to  transport 
them.  She  also  liad  a  Woodhouse  jay  (  Ctjnocitta  Wood- 
MfUaei )  y^Wwh  she  presented  to  the  ladifs,  but  which,  to 
our  regret,  we  )iad  to  ]f>ave  at  Boulder,  lor  want  of  facili- 


OVKE  THK  PIjMNS   AND  ON'  THE  MOUNTAINS.  125 

ties  to  bring  il  au'iiy.     It  wuh  a   moHt  iiiagnificent  bird  of 
brillisint  bottle  green  plumage. 

After  a  must  excellent  dinnei-,  to  whidi  our  niountain 
appetites  diduniple  juHtice,  and  for  wliich  \vt>  were  charged 
a  very  moderate  price,  we  started  and  were  soon  at  Oa.stle 
Hock,  where  we  stopped  to  nurvey  it  once  more,  iir.stfrom 
the  west,  then  from  the  east  side.  A  mile  or  two  below 
wo  descried  a  pair  of  bighorns,  (  Ovis  montana,)  or  Rocky 
Mountain  sheep,  with  a  lamb  under  an  overhanging  cliff 
on  a  terrace  of  the  canyon  wall  some  1200  feet  above  its. 
There  they  stood  immovable  as  statues,  looking  down 
upon  us.  \Ve  shouted,  whooped  and  yelled,  making  all 
the  noise  we  could,  but  it  had  no  effect  upon  them.  The 
lamb,  however,  became  alarmed  and  kept  dodging  from 
one  side  to  the  other  of  the  pair. 

Still  further  down  we  stopped  to  see  the  son  of  our 
•Caribou  host,  AVillie  Logue,  a  8t.  Louis  boy,  fourteen 
years  old,  who  was  working  on  a  very  promising  prospect 
of  his  own  discovery.  He  was  in  a  very  great  glee,  and 
assured  us  that  the  assayer  had  just  sent  hini  word  that  a 
specimen  sent  had  analyzed  at  the  rate  of  140  ounce^H  t') 
the  ton.  He  sent  a  specimen  of  the  ore  to  the  ^[issouri 
State  Cabinet,  where  it  can  now  be  seen  at  the  AVasbing- 
ton  University.  We  have  since  heard  with  regret  tliat 
the  same  discovery  liad  been  made  before  and  recorded  in 
1862.  It  seems,  however,  by  the  latest  news  from  there, 
that  Willie  has  been  in  luck,  and  made  a  very  y)romi8ing 
discovery  on  the  north  side  of  Caribou  3Iountaiii,  in  the 
canyon  of  the  North  Boulder. 

We  were  next  halted  by  one  of  our  Boulder  female 
friends,  the  excellent  wife  of  Major  Buttles,  who  is  one  of 
the  principle  stockholders  and  managing  directors  of  the 
Boulder  canyon  road,  which  I  ought  to  have  stated  before, 
M'aa  only  completed  three  weeks  before  our  arrival  tliere. 
The  Major  having  some  business  in  connection  with  the 
completion  of  the  road  in  the  upper  part  of  the  canyon, 
Mrs.  B.  had  a^-oompanied  him  to  stay  a  day   or  two;  and 


120  oviJi  THK  ri.Ai.Ns  and  os  thk  mountains. 

here  Wo  lound  lier  in  the  wild,  ivloomy,  nioiuiuiiu  canyon, 
heside  the  noisy  stream,  oecupyinj^  a  cabin  made  of  poles, 
with  a  ifround  floor,  covered  with  the  \vini!;-sha|K-d  boughH 
ul'tfie  spriici'.  She  said  she  had  just  finished  catching  a 
tine  mess  ot' mountain  trout,  and  pressed  us  to  wait  and 
she  would  fry  some  for  us.  Okl  lloman  etiquette  would 
have  required  us  to  take  an  emetic  to  get  rid  of  our  din- 
ner, that  we  might  acccjit  the  invitation.  Hut  modern 
politenesf*,  foolish,  iicartless  and  exacting  as  it  is.  <leviate8 
not  quite  as  liir  from  the  path  of  common  sense  as  the 
ancient  did.  Suppose  it  did,  what  judgment  would  Mrs. 
(rf>s8  form  <•!"  our  estimation  of  her  cookery  r* 

Our  next  luUting  ])lace  Avas  o])posite  the  embouchure  of 
the  North  Boulder.  The  road  here  (TOSses  a  l»ridgc  to 
the  south  side  of  the  main  canyon,  where  we  drove  be- 
cause here  was  one  of  the  few  turnouts  to  pass  ascending 
teams.  After  alighting,  we  walked  back  over  the  bridge 
and  then  (•iambere<i  along  the  precipitous  sides  of  the 
north  wall  (jf  the  canyon,  down  to  the  mouth  of  North 
Boulder.  I  soon  found  that  I  had  as  much  as  J  Avas  able 
to  do  to  take  care  of  m\'self,  and  therefore  had  to  aban- 
don Mrs.  T.  to  the  care  of  3Ir.  Corson,  the  President  of 
the  Boulder  County  Agricultural  Association,  who  had  ac- 
companied us  to  Caribou.  The  canyon  of  the  North 
Boulder  was  even  more  difficult  than  the  first.  By  run- 
ning any  number  of  risks  of  breaking  our  necks,  or  of  a 
'•old  bath  in  the  stream,  avc  stxjod  at  length  on  a  very  nar- 
row gravelly  beach  facing  the  falls.  The  canyon  runs 
northwest,  but  suddenly  becomes  a  cut  de  sac;  a  perpen- 
dicular wall,  a  thousand  feet  or  more  high,  lies  right 
aoroBH  it.  The  falls  meet  the  canyon  from  the  northeast 
and  tliercfoj-e  at  right  angles.  To  the  right  of  the  fiills 
the  northeast  wall  of  the  canyon  consists  of  I'cd  granite, 
and  is  apparently  a  mountiiin  peak  cleft  in  twain  pcrpen- 
dicuiarly  and  rising  to  an  altitude  of  from  1,500  to  2,000 
feet.  Between  this  peak  and  the  mountain  closing  up  the 
cainyon  tiie  water  has  cut  down   through  the  granite   a 


OVK«    THK  PLAINS  AND  ON  THK  MOUNTAINS.  127 

trough  fconic  ;>00  foot  deep  and  20  feet  witlo.  This  trough 
Ih  of  the  sain(!  widll)  throughout,  and  perfectly  symmetri- 
cah  Jl  is  tlic!  only  instance  J  s:iw  in  the  niounUuns  oi' 
erosion,  the  canyon  \\»\\h  invariahiy  hcing  cleavages 
made  hy  convulsions  of  ^'ature.  The  tails  :n-e  about  20 
teet  wide  and  70  feet  high.  They  strike  a  slanting  rock 
inclining  to  the  nortlnvest,  which  lies  on  the  east  side  of 
the  canyon.  The  rock  is  about  12  feet  high  ;  it  therefore 
pitchcH  the  water,  the  south  half  of  the  cascade  that  falls 
on  it,  against  the  northwest  wall,  which  closes  the  can- 
yon. The  other  half  goes  without  any  obstruction  to  the 
bottom  behind  this  deflected  sheet  and  hoils  up  at  our 
feet  white  as  milk  with  foam.  AV'e  are  standing  within 
iiO  feet  of  the  falls  and  facing  it,  and  occasionally  a  whirl 
of  air  carries  the  spi'ay  into  our  faces,  but  the  roar  is  ter- 
rific and  the  ground  trembles  beneath  our  feet.  BehintI 
the  falls  is  a  large  cavity  extending  to  Avithin  ten  feet  of 
the  top,  so  that  the  falls  pour  over  a  projecting  rock,  leav- 
ing a  deep  recess.  What  was  singular  a  Rocky  mountain 
blue-bird,  the  Salia  aretica,  liad  its  nest  in  this  recess,  and 
it  had  evidently  "not  learned  the  fear  of  man,"  for  it 
would  come  down  to  the  beach  on  the  opposite  side  and 
within  fifteen  feet  of  us,  without  seeming  to  notice  our 
presence.  It  would  hop  about,  and  after  finding  an  in- 
sect, often  a  grasshopper  that  had  come  over  the  falls,  it 
would  rise,  and  after  a  little  suspension  would  dart  in 
through  the  thinest  part  of  the  falling  sheet,  close  by  the 
north  wall.  A  moment  after  and  it  would  re-appear  at 
the  pame  point  to  repeat  the  performance.  There  is  a 
second  fall  a  short  distance  above  the  lower,  of  some  45 
feet,  which  is  said  to  be  extremely  grand,  but  it  is  inacces- 
sible from  this  point.  After  an  equally  hazardous  sci-am- 
ble,  we  got  back  to  our  conveyances,  but  now  we  found 
ourselves  in  trouble.  Some  teams  liad  come  up  from 
below  caiTying  a  part  of  Col.  Cutter's  machinery,  but  our 
vehicles  blocked  up  the  way,  so  there  was  neither  a  way 
to  retreat  nor  advance  for  either  party.     After  mutual 


12S  OVKR  THK  PI^VIN.S    AXD  0.\  THK  .MOtrXTAIXS. 

consulUtion.  it  was  discovered  if  we  unhitched  and  took 
the  horses  across  the  bridge,  und  then  piled  up  the  vehi- 
cles, room  could  bo  made  for  the  wagons  to  pass,  which 
beinc^  done,  all  of  us  went  on  our  way  rejoicing.  It  was 
about  sunset  when  we  issued  from  the  mouth  of  the  can- 
yon, upon  the  plain  where  stands  the  city  of  Boulder. 


CA'EB   THE  PLAiNd  ANT>  OX  THE  MOlTNTArNci  129 


CHAPTER  XI. 

The  next  morning,  Friday,  Juno  16,  I  "waa  up  with  the 
(lawn  and  out  on  the  wtrcets.  They  were  yet  deserted 
and  silent.  Not  a  living  thing  was  to  be  seen  nor  heard, 
except  the  ever  purling  murmur  of  the  waters  hastening 
down  over  the  plain.  Instinctively  I  was  drawn  to  their 
Hide  and  up  their  brink  and  on  to  the  bridge  that  spans  the 
Boulder  opposite  the  centre  of  the  town.  It  was  yet  twi- 
light and  I  stood  on  the  bridge  for  some  moments  musing- 
ly looking  at  the  flow  and  listening  to  the  murmur  of  the 
waters;  and  then  raising  my  eyes  to  look  at  the  aperture 
in  the  mountains  whence  they  issued.  Oh,  those  moun- 
tains how  dear  to  me  now  that  I  have  made  their  acquain- 
tance !  When  I  recalled  the  gloom  and  solitude  of  the 
rifled  canyon  in  the  Cordilleras  through  which  these  waters 
have  flowed,  and  the  overpowering  and  magic  grandeur  of 
the  scenery  of  which  they  had  formed  a  part,  I  felt  sad. 
I  thought  that  they,  like  I,  had  left  forever  scenes  of  in- 
spiration that  give  birth  to  thoughts  and  emotions  too 
high  and  holy  for  utterance,  to  mix  hereafter  with  the 
low,  groveling,  commonplace  humdrum  of  every-day  life. 
Purling  and  dancing  and  singing  so  joyously  as  they 
glided  along  over  their  rocky  bed,  I  could  not  help  sigh- 
ing: Ah,  little  do  they  know  of  what  is  before  them  !  I 
felt  like  apostrophizing  them  thus:  Ah  I  well  may  ye  of 
so  little  experience  be  light  of  heart  and  dance  and  sing 
and  prattle  with  glee  as  you  hasten  from  your  mountain 
home.  Soon  the  merciless  iron  of  experience  will  pene- 
trate 3-our  bosom  and  your  joy  will  flee  forever.  You 
will  enter  into  the  groat  throng,  and  falling  under  its  bo- 
numbing  influencoa  will  lose  your  identity  forever.  "With 
9 


150  OVEK   THK  PL-VINS  AND  ON  THE  MOUNTAINS. 

thom,  you  will  pui-suo  a  sluggieh  career  amid  fens,  bogs> 
and  sandbars  to  obstruct  your  "way,  till  yuu  finally  fall 
into  and  aix>  lost  in  the  groat  ocean  of  which  you  aro  an 
emanation.  Were  ye  sentient,  and  had  yo  the  faculty  of 
provision  to  soo  the  low  cai'cer  before  you  and  its  final  ond^ 
like  the  dying  Swiss  boy,  yo  would  entreat  and  ciy : 

"  Oh,  carry  me  back  to  my  mountain  home.  " 

But  fato  has  Hot  itH  seal  upon  mo  as  well  as  yon,  and  from 
you  I  can  learn  the  lesson  to  bo  cheerful,  and  not  repine 
while  obeying  his  behests. 

Breaking  fron\  my  reverie,  I  crossed  the  bridge  and 
followed  tho  pijbbly  margin  of  tho  stream  up  to  the 
mouth  of  the  canyon,  examining  tho  cndlosa  variety  of 
size,  color  and  material  of  tho  boulders  and  pebbles  of 
which  its  bottom  and  margin  aro  composed.  Then  turn- 
ing south  and  following  tho  baso  of  the  mountain,  I  soon 
a.scendod  one  of  those  terraced  plateaux  that  invariably 
lie  against  tho  mountains  batwcou  tho  mouths  of  canyons 
and  gulches.  Tho  plateau  I  followed  till  it  terminates  at 
Bear  gulch,  and  thenco  down  till  I  reached  tho  road  lead- 
ing to  town.  Tho  view  from  tho  plateau  is  most  charming, 
even  finer  than  from  that  on  tho  north  side  of  the  stream 
already  described,  sinco  it  brings  the  valleys  of  both  the 
North  and  South  Boulder  under  nearer  view,  and  for  a 
greater  distance  tho  valley  below  their  junction  at  Val- 
mont.  Tho  lower  plain  and  that  of  the  plateau  were 
densely  covered  with  flowers,  all  of  which  havobccn  men- 
tioned before  except  tho  Mcriensia  panicuiata  and  tho 
Campanula  rotundifoUa,  which  I  found  in  tho  mouth  of 
Bear  gulch,  and  tho  beautiful  IJppia  cuneijolia  of  the  lower 
plain. 

After  breakfast  at  the  Colorado  House,  where  wo  put 
up,  tho  proprietor  called  my  attention  to  Homof;tonc3  usod 
for  flagging  tho  pavement,  which  he  naid  were  "plioto- 
graph  Btonofl.  "     I  found  several  largo  slabs  fringed  around 


OVER  THE  PLAINS   AND  ON  THE  MOUNTAINS.  131 

with  images  of  miniature  trees  and  ibrosts.  While  I  was 
examining  them,  Mr.  J.  A.  Carr,  a  irroeer,  but  formally  a 
minor,  and  a  true  lover  of  Nature,  passed  by;  and  seeing 
what  had  attracted  my  attention,  said  if  I  would  go  to  his 
etoro  ho  would  show  me,  and  make  me  a  present  of  very 
fine  sj)Ooinicn8  of  tlicso  stones.  Complying  with  his  invi- 
tation, I  accompanied  him,  and  lie  gave  me  a  specimen  of 
great  beauty — two  miniature  trees,  more  than  six  inches 
in  length,  imprinted  on  a  fine  white  sandstone.  lie  said 
about  two  miles  north  of  town,  the  top  of  the  first  hog 
back  was  entirely  composed  of  these  stones.  These,  how- 
ever, were  of  a  red  sandstone,  while  the  white  specimen 
he  gave  mo  was  from  a  hog  back  two  miles  west,  in  the 
recesses  of  tho  mountains. 

Ho  very  generously  got  a  carriage  and  took  me  out  to 
tho  locality.  In  driving  out  I  noticed  on  the  eds-e  of  tho 
plain,  near  tho  mountain,  and  running  parallel  to  it,  a 
dark-lpoking  rocky  ledge,  rising  sometimes  to  a  height  of 
80  feet  above  tho  plain.  This  is  a  bluish  semi-crystalline 
limestone,  from  which  excellent  lime  is  made.  It  occa- 
sionally appears  along  the  foot  of  the  mountains,  but 
nowhere  else  on  tho  plains.  Arriving  at  the  foot  of  the 
epur,  on  the  summit  of  which  the  "j^hotograph  stones" 
are  deposited,  avo  found  it  consisted  of  red  sedimentary 
Bandstono,  upheaved  to  a  hight  of  some  1,200  feet  above 
tho  plain.  Against  its  sides  lies  a  steep  bank  of  earth, 
through  which  the  rocks  protruded^  and  which  is  carried 
up  to  a  hight  of  some  500  feet  above  the  plain.  Then 
oomcs  tho  rock  split  into  lamina  from  less  than  one-half  to 
six  inches  in  thickness.  This  ujjheaval  is  very  steep  and  can 
bo  ascended  only  by  using  both  hands  and  feet,  a  danger- 
ous performance,  however,  since  often  you  get  on  a  slab 
which  will  slido  down  the  side  of  the  mountain  with  you. 
After  ascending  about  one-third  of  the  acclivity,  wo  com- 
moncod  splitting  tho  slabs,  and  wherever  there  was  an  in- 
dication of  a  soam,  we  always  found  the  "piiotograph 
tree  "  and  sometimes  a  picture  representing  a  foroet.     All 


132  OVVAi  THK  I'h.VlNS    AND  U.V  TIIK   MOLSTAIN'S. 

the  hunJ}<omer  ones  wo  slid  down  the  sides  of  the  moun- 
tain to  take  with  us,  but  they  were  fjenenilly  broken  into 
fraijinents  by  tlie  operation.  However,  we  .secured  a  fine 
lot,  which  we  broui:;ht  home  with  us.  Difl'erent  explana- 
tions hud  been  niven  ot'tlie  nature  and  origin  of  these  j)ie- 
turcs  of  trees  and  tbrests  in  the  seams  of  tliese  stonew. 
One  is,  thai  as  these  arc  sedimentary  rocks,  annual  fresh- 
«'ts  brought  down  from  highlands  silicious  matter  which 
would  be  deposited  on  the  botton  of  some  pool  or  pond  of 
still  water.  J)uring  the  interval  between  freshets,  mosses 
would  grow  and  spread  themselves  out  on  the  bottom  of 
these  pools,  which  in  turn,  were  submerged  by  the  sedi- 
ment of  the  succeeding  freshet.  As  these  lamina  were 
otten  not  more  than  a  fourth  of  an  inch  in  thickness,  this 
account  for  their  origin  and  nature  appears  quite  ])lausible. 
But  the  tatal  objection  to  this  theory  is  that  the  cleavages 
in  which  these  figures  occur  are  always  perpendicular  to 
the  sedin\entary  stratification. 

Another  theory  to  account  for  them  is  this — ihat  they 
are  of  electric  origin,  and  that  the  figures  are  the  photo- 
graphs of  trees  or  forests  that  once  stood  around  the  pools 
in  which  those  sedimentary  deposits  took  place  ;  that  a 
flash  of  lightning,  after  night,  had  photographed  the  ima- 
ges of  these  trees  upon  the  bottom  of  the  pools,  which  was 
supposed  to  liave  been  sensitive  to  such  an  impression — in 
other  words,  somewhat  similar  in  condition  to  a  photo- 
graphic plate.  In  support  of  this  theory  they  advance 
the  well-observed  and  indisputable  fact  that  persons  killed 
or  shocked  by  lightning  often  have  the  image  of  a  tree, 
leaf  or  branch  intervening  between  them  and  the  main 
electric  discharge  imprinted  on  their  bodies.  This  theory 
also  assumes  that  the  lamina  in  which  these,  figures  occur 
are  identical  with,  or  at  least  parallel  to,  the  sedimentary 
layers,  when  the  fact  is,  they  are  at  right  angles  to  them 
— a  fact  likewise  fatal  to  it. 

The  true  explanation  of  these  figures  is  as  follows  :  If 
we  put  some  mercury  in  a  phial  filled  with  a  weak  solutioa 


OVER   THE  PLuUNS  AND  ON  THE  MOUNTAINS.  133 

of  nitrate  of  Rilver,  in  a  few  dayn,  if  not  disturbed,  the  sil- 
ver will  1)0  found  ])re('ipitiited,  the  crystal  constitntiii'^  a 
beautiful  troe-liko  form,  culled  Diana's  tree,  (Arbor  Dianon). 
Similarly  the  lead  tree,  {Arbor  Suturni)  is  precipitated 
from  acetate  of  lead  by  zinc.  They  are  therefore  simply 
arborescent  minei-al  fii^ures,  that  is,  crystalizations  oi'some 
solution  of  man<^anese  which  liad  been  carried  b}^  the 
water  into  the  fissures  of  these  rocks,  and  there  precipita- 
ted and  orystalized  by  the  reaction  of  iron,  or  perhaps 
potassium.  They  are  known  to  geologists  as  dendriteSy 
that  is,  stone  trees. 

After  dinner,  accompanied  by  Mr.  (Jorson  and  'Squire 
Dabney,  we  drove  out  to  the  South  Boulder,  some  four 
miles,  to  inspect  the  iron  works  of  Langsford  &  Marshall, 
adjacent  to  their  coal  bank.  A  mile  or  so  from  town  we 
passed  the  limits  of  cultivated  fields,  and  found  the  plains 
covered  with  caltle.  There  are  again  fine  farms  on  the 
South  Boulder,  though  they  occupy  but  an  insignificant 
area  when  compared  with  the  scope  that  can  be  reached 
by  irrigation.  The  South  Boulder  we  found  a  limpid, 
turbulent,  rapid  creek,  like  all  the  streams  issuing  from 
these  moiintiiins,  though  less  in  size  than  the  main  Boul- 
der. 

On  its  south  margin  are  the  iron  works,  where  consid- 
erable ore  is  smelted  and  castings  made ;  but  they  were 
not  in  operation  when  we  were  there.  The  iron  ore  is 
obtained  on  the  terraced  plateau  in  which  their  coal  bank 
is  situated.  A  good  strata  overlies  the  coal,  but  is  not 
fully  developed.  Most  of  the  ore  heretofore  used  has  been 
gathered  by  collecting  the  loose  nodules  on  the  plateau 
and  the  adjacent  plain.  The  nodules  are  often  several 
feet  in  diameter,  and  are  red  hematite  of  varying  richness. 
Judge  Moore,  who  has  had  some  experience  in  such  mat- 
ters in  Pennsylvania,  says  if  they  would  assort  their  ores 
and  not  use  them  indiscriminately,  more  satisfactory 
results  would  be  attained,  both  in  the  quantity  and  quality 
of  the  metal.     In  fact,  that  the  ores  generally  are  rich 


134  OVER  THK  PLAINS  AND  ON  THE    MOUNTAINS. 

enougli  to  mako  tlif  outerprise  eminently  suceesaful.  Tho 
coal  mine  is  situatod  some  two  hundred  yjirds  Boutheaet  of 
tho  iron  works.  It  is  a  dril't  running  southwardly  under 
the  beneh  or  plateau.  The  coal  is  metamorphosed  lignito, 
being  but  one  remove  from  anthracite.  It  in  li<rht,  and 
does  not  soil  the  lingers  in  handling.  The  vein  is  thirteen 
feet  thick,  and  often  stUTn])s  of  petritied  pine  trees  aro 
found  in  it.  What  is  most  singular  about  it  is  that  it  is 
permeated  in  all  directions  by  seams  of  resin;  and  often 
lumps  of  pui'e  amber  colored  resin  varying  in  size  from  a 
hazelnut  to  a  hen's  egg,  are  found  embedded  in  it.  Analy- 
sis give  about  f>0  per  cent  as  the  amount  of  fixed  carbon 
contained  in  it;  ashes  under  two  per  cent,  and  entirely- 
free  of  pulj)hur.  It  is  found  to  answer  most  admirably  for 
smelting  all  kinds  of  ores,  tho  only  drawback  being  ita 
tendency  of  breaking  up  into  parallelo[)iped8  and  then 
fiisinginto  a  mass,  thus  choking  up  the  draft. 

"VVc  explored  the  mine  as  far  as  worked,  some  three 
hundred  yards  in  a  straight  adit.  Jt  is  under  the  superin- 
tendence of  Mr.  Henry  Wrigley,  a  AVelch  miner,  formerly 
of  St.  Louis,  and  who  at  once  recognized  me. 

This  is  unquestionably  not  only  the  largest,  but  tho  boat 
deposit  of  coal  on  the  western  plains.  There  are  no  less 
than  eleven  distinct  veins  with  but  small  intervals  between 
them.  The  aggregate  thickness  of  eight  of  these,  ascer- 
tained by  working  them,  is  sixty-three  feet;  the  thick- 
ness of  three  being  unknown.  A  vein  12  feet  thick  of  tho 
same  deposits  is  worked  at  Erie,  twelve  miles  from  tho 
mountains,  and  extends  south  tow^ards  Golden  (Jity,  bu^ 
thins  out  before  reaching  there;  it  also  depreciates  in 
quality,  as  shown  by  Professor  Ila^'den's  Geological  report 
of  18(M>. 

We  then  visited  other  mities  farther  down  on  tho  p)lain  ; 
and  among  them  the  shall  on  tlie  IGth,  the  school  section, 
which  some  malicious  persons  had  set  on  fire,  and  which 
was  banked  up  with  earth  to  smother  the  fire.  8tnita  of 
the  best  fireclay  are  interposed  betw(H?n  the  veins  of  coal 


OVER   THE  PL.VIN8  AND  ON  THE  MOUNTAINH.  ISO 

varying  from  4  to  8  feet  in  thicknens.  Those  will  bo 
invuluablo  for  furnaces  hereafter  in  Bmelting  tho  oroH 
of  tho  mountains. 

On  our  way  back  to  tovni  we  inHpected  Home  of  tho 
principal  irrigating  canals,  and  examined  tho  method  of 
-applying  tho  water.  "\Vo  found  7nain  canals  away  out  on 
tho  highest  benches  of  the  plain,  conveying  water  to 
ranches  from  five  to  eight  miles  distant.  The  general 
regulations  here  respecting  irrigation  are,  that  proprietors 
of  land  join  and  exca%-ato  an  irrigating  canal  along  such 
line  as  will  supply  water  to  the  greatest  scope  of  territory 
compatible  with  Lhoir  own  interest  and  convenience.  Af- 
ter the  canal  is  so  constructed,  any  one  entering  land  "un- 
der ditch, "  as  they  call  it,  that  is,  that  can  be  irrigated 
froni  any  completed  canal,  is  required  to  pay  the  proprie- 
tors of  the  canal  at  the  rate  of  tifty  dollars  for  every  quar- 
ter section  of  land  so  entered,  or  acquired,  which  had  no 
water  privileges.  This  secures  to  him  forever  the  privilege 
of  free  use  for  all  the  water  required  for  irrigating  his 
land ;  the  number  and  size  of  tho  sluices,  however,  are 
regulated  by  law.  lie  is  subject,  however,  to  such  annual 
assessment  as  may  be  necessary  to  keep  tho  main  canal  in 
repair,  which  is  found  on  an  average  never  to  exceed  four 
dollars  per  year.  This,  added  to  tho  interest  on  his  origi- 
nal  investment,  makes  the  cost  of  water  from  four  to  five 
cents  per  acre  annually.  About  Denver  irrigating  privi- 
leges have  become  a  monopoly ;  and  the  monopolists 
charge  outsiders  one  dollar  and  fifty  centa  per  acre  annu- 
ally  for  water. 

We  passed  fields  of  oats,  barley,  wheat  and  corn,  all  un- 
der irrigation,  of  the  darkest  gi'cen,  and  in  tho  most  thrif- 
ty condition.  AVe  also  passed  a  meadow  of  splendid 
promise.  Finally  we  came  to  the  ranche  of  a  farmer  from 
Pennsylvania,  the  largest  wheat  grower  in  the  territory, 
whoso  name  I  have  unfortunately  forgotton.  lie  has  been 
here  nine  years,  and  for  the  last  seven  years  has  not 
raised  loss  than  5000  bushels  auniuUly.    This  year  ho  ox- 


136  OVEE   TUB  PL.VINS  AND  ON  THK  MOUNTAINg. 

poets  lictwccn  9000  and  10,000  bu8hel8.  He  was  in  his 
•vshcnt  fielc!,  ;il)Oiit  100  acres,  with  his  hoe,  attending  to 
iiTiguticn.  Wo  wtopped  and  had  a  long  conversation  with 
him.  From  him  wo  IcarnoKl,  as  wo  did  from  others,  that 
their  crops  never  suffer  from  insects,  because  they  drown 
them  uui;  that  there  is  never  any  rust  on  the  blade,  nor 
Bmut  on  tlie  berry,  becivuso  <ho  aridity  of  the  climate  pre- 
vents all  fungoid  growth.  The  wheat  I  examined  at  tho 
mills  gave  testimony  to  the  same  effect.  It  had  tho  plump- 
est kernels  I  ever  saw.  No  imperfect,  diseased  or  shriv- 
elod  kernel  could  be  found.  I  asked  him  what  effect  the 
extension  of  railroads  will  luive  upon  tho  price  of  wheat, 
oats  and  barley.  He  said  none  whatever;  we  fear  no 
compotition  here,  because  the  quality  of  our  wheat,  and 
consequently  of  our  flour,  is  so  superior  that  it  will  always 
command  a  higher  price  than  any  that  can  be  brought  bore 
from  abroad;  and  then  with  irrigation,  and  with  our  ox. 
emption  from  disease,  our  crops  never  fail;  while  we 
raise  full}'  betw^oen  two  and  three  times  as  much  per  acre 
as  you  average  in  Missouri.  To  the  inquiry  what  ho  had 
obtained  for  his  crop  last  year,  lie  answered,  three  dollars 
and  forty  cents  per  (.-ental,  (that  is,  S2  04  cents  per  biLshol) 
which  was  about  New  York  price  for  ])riiae  white  wheat. 
I  asked  him  about  the  grasshoppers.  *'  Well,"  said  he> 
•'•wo  had  them  here  one  year.  They  came  over  the  moun- 
tains and  eat  us  out,  and  then  left  for  eastern  Kansas  and 
Missouri,  and  would  have  eaten  you  out,  too,  had  tho  sea- 
son been  longer."  I  asked  him  what  lu^  supposed  was  the 
average  yield  per  acre  of  wheat,  oats  and  barley. 
**  Wheat,"  said  he,  "taking  all  that  receives  respectable 
cultivation,  will  yield  on  an  avenigc  of  thirty-five  bushels 
per  acre.  J>ut,  l»y  the  best  cultivation,  this  can  bo  in- 
cTcased  fri^m  twenty  to  thirty  bushels  more  per  acre.  A 
premium  fiehl  <jf  five  acres  averaged  sevcnty-ono  bushels 
per  acre.  Oats  and  barley,"  ho  said,  "  would  yield  from  90 
to  120  bushels  per  acre;  corn,  ordinarily,  about  thirty-five 
bxisheln,  but  as  high  an  eighty  bushels  has  been  attaino<l. 


OVER   THE  PLAINS  AND  ON  THE  MOUNTAINS.  137 

Meadows  will  yield  two  and  a  half  to  three  tons  ]>er  acre, 
but  the  hay  is  not  of  the  first  quality-"  But  this  is  the 
case  everywhere.  Xo  hay  of  prime  quality  is  made  any- 
where, where  the  growth  is  rank.  I  examined  some  timo- 
thy (  P/i?c?/»i  prateyise)  that  had  spikes  from  six  to  eight 
inches  long,  and  was  coarse  in  haum  in  pi'oportion;  and 
tills  is  the  cause  of  its  inferior  quality.  There  is  a  wild' 
timothy  in  the  mountain  ])arks  which  I  did  not  see,  which 
is  naid  to  yield  heavily  and  to  make  a  hetter  hay  than  the 
tame  on  the  ])lains  below.  It  may  prove  indentical  with 
the  Phleuin  alpiniim,  found  on  the  White  Mountains  in 
New  Hampshire,  and  on  the  mountains  of  Europe. 

It  will  thus  be  seen  that  though  the  natural  climate  of 
Colorado  is  such  that  agricultural  pursuits,  for  lack  of 
moiwtui'c,  could  not  be  conducted  successfully,  yet  where- 
ever  the  soil  can  be  irrigated  the  agriculturist  is  practi- 
cally independent  of  the  weather.  In  its  season  the  sun 
pours  down  a  flood  of  light  and  heat  from  an  intensely 
blue  sky,  and  through  a  perfectly  transparent  atmosphere. 
Though  the  clouds  withhold  their  rain,  3-et  their  remiss- 
neas  is  retrieved  by  the  abundant  water  that  flows  from 
the  melted  snows  which  the  mountains  collect  during  the 
winter.  Xo  worm  or  other  insect  devours  the  succulent 
grain,  Avhile  growing,  nor  is  it  ever  smitten  by  blight,  an 
abundant  harvest  therefore  never  fails  to  rcAvard  the  ajrri- 
culturist,  nor  is  there  little  variation  in  quantity  and  none 
in  qtiality. 

All  this  is  indisputably  true ;  but  still  the  picture  is  too 
highly  colored.  There  are  some  di'awbacks,  which  are 
patent  to  every  close  observer.  In  the  tirst  place,  when 
tlie  water  is  withdraAvn  the  soil  becomes  as  hard  as  a 
brick,  and  there  is  no  stirring  it  until  the  rains  and  winter 
frosts  have  mellowed  it  again.  For  this  reason,  but  little 
winter  wheat  is  or  can  be  sown  unless  there  are  heavy 
rains  in  the  latter  part  of  summer,  which  is  sometimes  the 
case.  Then,  the  waters  coming  from  the  melted  snoAvs  in 
the  mountains,  only  20  miles  distant,  and  fi*om  the  short 


138  OVER    THE  PLAINS  AND  ON  THE  MOUNTAINS. 

time  it  tukoa  them,  because  of  tho  rapidity  of  their  de- 
scent, are  yet  intenselj^  cold  when  they  reach  the  plains. 
Hence  there  is  an  nnevenncss  in  tho  ripening  of  the 
grain,  the  coldness  of  tho  water  keeping  back  a  strip  just 
below  eveiy  ditch,  while  that  portion  of  the  field  which 
reoeiven  water  that  has  flowed  over  a  consid-crable  surface 
and  become  warmed,  comes  earlier  to  maturity.  But  the 
coldncfi.s  of  the  water  is  the  most  serious  di-awback  in  irri- 
gating corn,  which  is  a  lover  of  heat.  This  is  partially 
overcome  by  letting  tho  water  flow  over  a  considerable 
extent  of  plain  or  pasture  land  until  it  has  become 
warmed,  and  then  gather  it  into  ditches  again  and  apply 
it  to  the  corn,  liut  the  fact  is,  corn  can  bo  raised  about 
as  well  without  as  with  irrigation,  and  8ometimcs,  in  favor- 
able seasons,  produces  crops  fully  as  heavy  as  the  average 
crop  in  Missouri. 

It  must  also  be  stated  that  occasionally  there  occurs  a 
season  when  the  rains  are  sufficient  to  mature  all  crops 
without  irrigation.  Thus  in  1868  the  irrigating  canals 
were  not  opened  at  all.  A  season  of  thunder-storms  com- 
mencing in  the  mountains  in  June  and  continuing  to  Sep- 
tember, often  extends  to  the  plains  along  the  foot  of  thd 
mountains.     Then  corn  yields  an  abundant  crop. 

Spring  wheat  is  almost  universally  raised;  but  the  flour 
and  bread  made  of  it  have  no  resemblance  to  those  of  spring 
wheat  in  tho  States.  The  flour  contains  less  gluten,  and 
consequently  is  not  sticky  like  flour  made  of  spring 
wheat  in  tho  States.  The  bread  made  of  it  is  as  white  as 
that  of  the  choicest  St.  Louis  brands;  and  then  it  is  so  light 
and  spongy.  I  actually  believe  it  also  has  medicinal  prop- 
erties. Why  should  it  not?  The  soil  on  which  it  grows, 
when  the  water  is  withdrawn,  becomes  encrusted  with  tho 
carlxjnate  of  soda,  white  as  if  a  flurry  of  snow  had  passed 
over  it  Cattle  lick  this  crystalized  soda,  and  never  need 
to  be  salted;  in  fact,  they  will  turn  up  their  noses,  if  you 
ofFcr  them  salt,  and  walk  away.  Soda  springs  and  lakes 
abound  tliroughout  tho  mountain  region;   and  since  tho 


OVER  THE  PLAINS  AND  ON  THE  MOUNTAINS.      139 

Boii  on  tho  Phiin.s  is  almost  cxcluHivcly  formed  of  debris 
from  tho  disentei;;rated  rocks  of  the  mountains,  it  is  pecu- 
liarly rich  in  phosphates  of  lime,  soda  and  potash.  Tho 
grain  that  grows  upon  such  a  soil  must  partake  richly  in 
these  phosphates,  especially  that  of  soda,  llenco  tho 
chemiciil  action  taking  place  between  the  soda  and  the 
gastric  juice  must  give-  rise  to  electric  currents  in  the 
system. 

Since  then  the  Colorado  Fair  has  been  held  at  Denver, 
and  the  Boulder  county,  at  Boulder;  the  following  amongst 
other  awards  were  made  :  At  Denver  to  John  G.  Lilly,  of 
Arapahoe  county,  in  which  Denver  is  situated,  first  pre- 
mium for  largest  yield  per  acre  of  wheat,  on  entire  farm. 
Amount  of  acreage  being  90  acres,  yield  4,988  1-2  bushels, 
or  a  fraction  over  55  bushels  per  acre. 

At  Boulder,  for  best  field  of  corn  raised  in  Boulder 
county ;  first  premium  to  M.  G,  Smith,  being  70  bushels, 
less  19  pounds,  to  the  acre.  Second  premium,  Mr. 
Walker,  64  bushels  to  the  acre. 

First  premium  for  largest  yield  of  potatoes  per  acre  to 
David  Ilersham,  being  a  fraction  over  805  bushels  to  the 
acre.  Seventeen  of  these  potatoes  made  a  bushel  by 
weight.  First  premium  for  best  half-dozen  beets,  to  G. 
F.  Chase,  tho  average  circumference  being  31  inches  each. 

The  best  half-dozen  heads  of  cabbage ;  first  premium  to 
Ml*.  Smith;  average  weight  of  each  head  being  54  1-4 
pounds.  Tho  rival  competitor's  average  was  53  1-2 
pounds  per  head. 

Tho  extent  of  arable  lands  is  the  limit  to  which  irrigation 
can  bo  cai-ried.  How  far  east  of  the  South  Platte  this 
may  be  done  I  am  unable  to  say  definitely,  but  so  far  as 
tho  supply  of  water  holds  out.  Between  the  Platte  and 
the  mountains  there  extends  a  triangular  plain  from  the 
debouchure  on  the  plains  of  the  Cache  a  la  Poudre  to  that 
of  tho  South  Platte,  whose  longest  side  along  tho  foot  of 
the  mountains  is  about  90  miles.  From  the  mouth  of  tho 
Platte  canyon  until  it  receives  the  Cache  a  la  Poudre  the 


1  40  OVER   THE  PLAINS  AND  ON  TUE  MOUTTT.VINS. 

distance  is  about  80  miles.  The  course  of  the  lailcr  stream 
from  the  lime  it  leaves  the  mountains  uTitii  it  meets  the 
Platte  is  about  40  miles.  The  following  are  the  moun- 
tain streams  |»roceedin£^  south  from  the  Cache  a  la  Poudre 
in  the  order  in  which  they  occur:  Bicj  Thomji^on,  a  trib- 
utary of  the  I'lattc;  Little  Thompson,  a  tributary  of  Big 
Thompson;  St.  Vniin's  Fork,  a -tributary  of  the  Platte; 
Left  Hand  Creek ;  and  then  Boulder,  both  tributaries  of 
the  St.  Vi-ain;  South  Boulder,  a  tributary  of  Boulder; 
Coal  Creek,  a  tributary  of  South  Boulder ;  Clear  Creek,  a 
iributar}'  of  the  Platte;  and  tinally  l^ear  Creek,  which 
ialls  into  the  Platto  above  Denver.  Bet^ides  these  there 
are  numerous  l>ranches  which  issue  from  niountain  gulche-s, 
but  whose  sources  measurably  tail  bctui-e  the  summer  is 
over. 

This  triangle  included  between  the  mountains  and  the 
Platte  covers  an  area  of  about  1,800,000  acres  of  land,  four- 
fifths,  at  least,  of  which  can  be  irrigated ;  and  the  whole  is 
one  of  the  most  desirable  grazing  regions  in  the  world. 
To  substantiate  this  I  quote  from  ProtessoT-  Ifayden's 
United  States  Geologieal  Peport  of  1869,  page  144: 

"  Snow  sometimes,  though  rarely,  reaches  a  depth  of 
twelve  inches;  yet  it  passes  off  as  rapidly  as  it  comes, 
seldom  remaining  longer  than  twenty-four  hours.  Even 
in  the  valleys  which  penetrate  the  first  range  of  mountains 
in  the  northern  section  this  is  the  case.  Some  winters  but 
little  snow  falls  during  the  entire  season.  As  conclusive 
evidence  of  this  statement,  rattle  are  herded  out  durincr 
the  entire  winter  in  all  partn  of  the  Territory,  such  a  thin"- 
as  preparntion  for  winter  feeding  being  almost  whollv  un- 
known. And  yet  in  the  spring  they  Avill  come  out  in  as 
good  order  as  those  of  the  States  whieh  have  been  housed 
and  fed  day  by  day.  The  Mexican  horses,  or  bronchos, 
will  also  winter  out  during  the  winter  like  the  cattle." 

This,  however,  is  only  true  of  the  plain  immediatelv 
along  the  baijO  of  the  mountains,  say  a  strip  from  15  to  20 
miles   wide.      Lower  down    on   the    Plains,   it   does   not 


OVER   THE  PI^'VIXB  AND  OX  THE  MOUNTAINS.  141 

always  hold  good.  There  are  e.xceptionally  cold  winters, 
when  the  depth  of  the  snow  and  the  intenHO  cold  are  fatal 
to  8tock  unless  fed  and  sheltered. 

The  lierds  in  Boulder  county  are  not  very-  large,  mnging 
from  400  to  1500  head.  AVm.  A.  Cordon,  the  President  of 
the  Boulder  (bounty  Agricultunil  Association,  is  one  of  the 
principal  Htock  raisera  in  the  county. 

It  will  be  seen,  from  what  is  said  elsewhere,  that  thoso 
vast  parks,  formed  of  the  tuble-land  on  the  summit  of  the 
mountains,  possess  an  agricultural  value  that  cannot  as  yet 
be  estimated.  That  they  are  admirably  adapted  for  dai- 
rying purposes  there  is  no  question.  Butter  made  there^ 
in  quantity,  quality  and  delicacy  of  flavor,  surpasses  that 
of  the  famous  land  of  Goshen.  They  are  also  well 
adapted  for  stock-raising.  Hay,  oats,  barley,  rye  and. even 
wheat  can  be  raised  in  all  of  them  notwithstanding  their 
great  altitude  above  the  level  of  the  sea.  Of  hay,  oata, 
turnips  and  cabbage,  no  country  yields  more  abundantly, 
area  for  area,  than  the  three  most  elevated  of  these  parka. 
Their  value  for  agricultural  purposes  was  early  acknowl- 
edged, not  because  their  soil  was  richer  and  mt)re  produc- 
tive than  that  of  the  mountain  lands  east  of  the  Snowy 
Range,  but  becmise  their  lands  lay  in  compact  bodies  j 
while  those  of  the  elevated  mountain  plains  east  of  the 
Snowy  Range  are  broken  up  and  dissevered  by  sporadic 
peaks,  and  cleft  asunder  by  gulches,  deep  chasms  and  im- 
passable canyons.  The  difference  in  the  quality  of  the 
soil,  if  any,  is  in  favor  of  the  mountain  lands.  It  is  no 
unusual  thing  to  find  a  black  soil  of  humus  or  vegetable 
mould  from  four  to  six  inches  thick  underlaid  by  a  rich 
subsoil  of  ochreous  clay.  Notwithstanding  the  broken 
character  of  the  mountain  table-land,  fully  one-fourth  of 
it  is  arable,  and  three-fourths  of  the  remainder  is  well 
adapted  for  grazing  purposes  both  for  sheep  and  cows. 
This  is  contrary  to  the  generally  received  public  opinion, 
but  it  is  nevertheless  true.  Potatoes  of  the  largest  size, 
weighing  as  much  as  four  pounds  apiece,  and  of  the  boirt 


142  OVER    THE  PLAINS  AND  ON  THE  MOUNTAINI*. 

quality  can  be  raised  on  thcBO  hills  and  mountain  plains 
without  irrigation.  Tho  yield  often  .  approximates  300 
bushels  to  the  acre,  Avhioh  is  larger  than  is  generally  ob- 
tained in  tho  rich  prairie  lands  of  tho  Valley  of  the  Mis- 
Bissippi. 

Theso  lands  indeed  are  often  rough,  but  I  have  seen 
thousands  of  acres  cultivated  in  tho  Eastern  States  not 
only  rougher  and  steeper,  but  poorer  and  far  stonier  than 
these. 


OVEB   TUB  PLAINS  AKD  ON  THK  MOCNIAINH.  14S 


CHAPTER  XIL 

Colorado  ecems  to  bo  regarded  a-s  a  favorable  ground 
for  trying  colonial  expcrimenlH.  I  heard,  whilo  there,  of 
no  lefw  than  three  locating  committees  that  were  explor- 
ing the  Ten'itory  for  the  most  favorable  location  for  a 
colony.  One  of  these  represented  a  Boston  colony, 
another  a  Western,  and  still  another  a  Tennessee  colony. 
1  have  not  heard  whether  they  have  finally  fixc<i  upon 
their  sites,  or  at  what  conclusion  they  have  arrived. 

To  those  aftected  by  this  colonizing  mania,  and  who 
think  of  acting  a  personal  part  in  carrying  out  Buch  a 
scheme,  I  would  address  the  admonition, 

*'  'Tis  distance  lends  enchantment  to  tlio  view.  " 

The  most  rugged  landscape  viewed  from  afar  looks 
charming  and  roseate,  but  it  is  otherwise  when  wo  meet 
fiico  to  face  the  stern  realities  of  Nature.  Then  the  path 
that  promised  to  lead  easily  and  gently  over  a  smooth 
and  level  plain,  shaded  by  trees,  enameled  by  flowers  and 
enlivened  by  the  songs  of  birds,  is  found  to  be  rugged,  ob- 
structed by  rocks  and  floods,  full  of  yawning  chasms  and 
insurmountable  precipices,  a  real  "howling  wilderness," 
the  roaming  ground  of  the  wolf,  the  tiger,  the  panther  and 
the  bear,  exacting  resolution,  energy,  courage  and  daring 
to  make  way  through  it  succcsHfully.  So  it  is  with  these 
oclony  schemes.  It  would  bo  a  nice  thing  if  a  hundred  or 
a  thousand  persons  of  small  means,  but  large  hearts  and 
noble  aspirations,  could  locate  upon  a  territory  now  of  no 
intrinsic  value,  and  to  all  of  which  their  very  pi-eeenoo 
would  give  a  marketable  value  often,  fifty,  or  even  a  hun- 


'144  OVta  THE  PLAINS   A-ND  O.V  THE  MOUNTAINS, 

dred  dollurs  an  :ioro.  llow  easily  aiui  nipidly  j^eople 
would  tht'ti  pass  from  strailonoil  tircumstaiices  to  compe- 
tence, ami  even  afliuence. 

There  is  no  doubt  that  alter  years  of  jtatieiiL  endurance, 
and  hopiiii^  ai^ainst  hope  in  many  instances,  this  "will  be  the 
c-ase,  but  tlie  sanguine  colonists  see  all  this  realized  at 
once,  Avithout  any  trial  of  "waiting  and  tiring  of  patience; 
nvith  no  hardships  to  be  borne,  nor  any  ])rivations  to  be 
endured.  He  supposes  that  in  a  new  country  labor  is 
scarce,  and  therefore  must  be  in  demand,  and  that  the 
products  of  his  industiy  and  skill  will  find  a  reatly  mar- 
ket. All  this  is  a  delusion  which  sad  experience  will  dis- 
pel. If  a  vacancy  for  a  colony,  with  all  these  advantage*!, 
could  be  found  in  the  heart  of  a  civilized  community,  all 
these  dreams  and  expectations  would  be  speedily  realized; 
but  out  on  the  vast  Plains,  surrounded  by  a  domain  only 
inhabited  b^^the  wolf,  the  caj-ote,  roaming  beasts  of  prey 
and  wild  animals,  and  where  the  only  towns  and  villages 
are  those  of  the  prairie  dog,  the  conditions  forbid  such  in- 
stant realization.  There  a  man  with  the  inventive  genius 
of  a  "Watt  or  Fulton,  with  strong  arms,  willing  mind,  and 
skillful  hands,  is  practically  reduced  to  inaction,  because 
there  is  no  use  for  their  skill  or  talents  and  no  demand  for 
any  article  they  am  produce.  Such  a  commtmity  neces- 
sarily is  without  money  because  it  produces  nothing  that 
brings  money;  and  all  cash  that  accidentally  finds  its  way 
there  is  sent  abroad  to  obtain  necessaries.  Trade  within 
the  community  is  thus  reduced  to  bartering  and  its  indus- 
try diverted  to  doing  "chores."  Such  ever  has  been  and 
always  must  be  the  case  of  isolated  communities  beyond 
the  ])ale  of  civilization.  Greeley  now  is  an  example  that 
may  be  quoted  both  for  proof  and  illustration.  It  started 
with  sevcmteen  stores  and  no  customers  except  the  colo- 
nists. These  for  a  while  may  have  had  money  brought 
with  them,  but  when  that  was  exhausted  none  came  in  to 
supply  its  place,  because  nothing  was  produced  that  com- 


OVKR    THK  PLAINS  AND  ON  THE  MOUNTAINS.  145 

Tnaiidod  iiionov,  and  thore  is  as  }'i't  no  jiuirki't  <>i-;unthin<'- 
Ihiit  eaii  be  prodiictMl. 

Even  ill  tlio  new  mining  coniiuuniiifs  of  tlie  juoiiiitains 
the  sumo  evils  are  i(>lt,  Imt  not  in  such  an  agi^ruvated  funn. 
They  2)i'<^>*-'"<^'<-'  .^oniethiiii^  lliat   lias  a  cojuTnereial  value  in 
the  markets  of  the  world;   l.iit  it  is  only  the  prime  arlieic 
they  can  make  available;  and  from  that  the^-  hardly  real- 
ize more  than  one-half  of  its  intrinsic  value.     The    other 
lialf  is  absorbe<l  ]»y  expenses  in   takini^  it  to   market,  and 
by  middle  men.     Take  Caribou  for  illustration  ;  it  has  the 
richest  silver  lode   in  the   Territoiy — in   fact,   one  of  the 
richest  ever  discovered  in  America;  and  the  whole  moun- 
tain seems  to  be  argentiferous.     There  are  now  more  tluaii 
one  hundred  lodes  opened  that  would,  at    localitit>s  pro- 
vided with  proper  facilities,  be  sources  of  immense  we4ilth 
to  their  owners.     These  lodes  could  furnish  three  hundrtMi 
tons  of  ore  a  week,  that  will   on  an  avera<;;e,  assay  8s0  to 
the  ton.     IJut  as  the  locality  is  isolated  and   too   new  for 
reduction  works,  they  have  to  carry  their  ore,  the   richest 
only  bearing  the  expense,  twenty-two  miles  to  a  smelting 
furnace,  where  they  receive  just  what  the  proprietor  of  th*) 
works   chooses  to  give  them.     Thus   that   community    Is 
working  along  and    kept    from    stagnation,    hojiing  and 
praying  for    better    times.      Yet    if   they    had    reductior. 
Avorks,  the  mines  now  open  would  furnish  ore  that  would 
yield  at  least  835,000  in  silver  ])er  week,  besides  the  gold, 
•copper  and  lead.     Now,  perha])s,  a  thousand  dollars  is  the 
limit  received  per   week  by  the  miners  in   that   locality, 
which  is  only  about  40  ])er  cent,  of  the  actual  value  of  the 
ores  sold.     Then  this   community,  while  its  lal)or  is  actu- 
ally adding  §2,500  per  week  to  the  wealth  of  the  Avorld, 
does  so  at  an  expense  to  itself  of  61,500.     Xot  onh'  so,  but 
the  labor  there   that  would  add   from   840,000  to  850,000 
per  week  to  the  common  wealth,  is  idle  and  unemjiloyo^J 
from  necessity.     New  discoveries  carrying  only  ores  of  a 
low  grade,  ])ut  rich  enough  to  pay  the  expense  of  opening 
Ihem  and  leave  a  margin  to  the  miner  besides,  are  left  un- 
10 


146  OVER  THE    PLAINS  AND  ON  THE  MOUNTAINS. 

developed,  beeaiisc  these  low  grade  oresai-c  wiihuiii  value 
under  present  eireunistanees. 

The  great  Comstoek  lode  of  Nevada  lias  yielded  up- 
wards of  one  hundred  million  dollars  of  bullion,  yet  the 
average  vield  of  its  ores  docs  not  i-xceed  twenty-five  dol- 
lars per  Ion.  AVhy  has  it  been  so  productive  and  ]>rotita- 
ble?  Simply  because  San  Francisco  capitalists  provided 
reducinir  works,  Avhich  have  enriched  lH)th  the  minci's 
and  themselves.  Xow,  furnish  the  new  discoveries  at 
('aribou^  hardly  a  year  old  yet,  Avith  facilities  for  reducing 
:ill  classes  of  ores  that  will  pay  for  reducing,  an<l  Boulder 
counu'  ill  one  year  will  liavc  one  thousand  lodes  that  will 
furnish  ores  as  rich  as  that  yielded  by  the  famous  Com- 
.stock  lode,  which  has  eni'iche(l  all  connected  with  it.* 

These  facts  make  it  clear  that  colonists,  whatever  the 
object  of  their  settlement  may  be,  should  be  either  Avell 
j.rovided  with  cash  to  last  till  the  advent  of  their  expected 
L^oldcn  age,  wliidi  will  only  l;>e  avIicu  civilization  over- 
takes them,  or  that  they  should  tix  delinitely  the  main 
pursuit  to  whiili  their  industry  is  to  be  directed,  and  gO' 
jirovided  with  all  the  ai)plia)ices  and  ap})ointmt'iits  to  in- 
jure success. 

Tlie  want  of  foresight  to  foresee  the  inexoi-alile  condi- 
tions of  isolated  communities,  and  hence  of  j)roviding  for 
meeting  them,  now  jiress  heavily  u])on  the  colonists  of 
Colorado,  and  is  the  cause  of  that  dis.satistaction,bickei'ing 
and  <'rimiiKitioii  which  iiiurc  oi"  less  pi-cvail  in  all  of 
them. 

I  makt!  these  remarks  because  thei-i'  is  scarcely  a  State 
east  of  the  >rississij)j)i  but  has  colonization  schemes,  and 
is  excited  Ijy  colony  excitements.  In  fact  colonizatio)i 
hchcmes  are  now  the  rage,  and  the  rage  intensifies  as  lime 
advances.  I  give  results  as  (hsveloped  in  C'olorado,  and 
volunteer  unwelcome  but  wholesome  advice  to  those  about 


*Thia  estinmte  is  not  minfi  but  is  that  of  an  exporienced  minftr,  per- 
fectly fiirniliar  witli  the  silver  mines  of  Nevada,  Utah  and  Colorado. 
My  opinion  is,  the  estimate  is  too  low. 


OVER  THE  PLAINS   AM)  UN  TIIK  MOUNTAINS.  147 

/ 

entering  upon  .sucli  enterprises.  Tluii  if  avc  niii.sl  l.avo 
Mioh  enterprises,  and  as  they  are  forewarned  ol  wliat  they 
have  to  expeel,  an«l  of  the  stern  realities  that  will  eon- 
front  them  when  they  get  there,  let  them  go  ])repared  to 
meet  the  exigencies  that  must  arise,  and  overcome  in  the 
shortest  time  ]iossible  the  ol)stacles  in  the  way  of  success. 
I  have  already  sufficient!}^  spoken  of  Greele}^  to  give  an 
idea  of  the  condition  of  things  there.  On  the  South 
Platte,  some  twenty-five  miles  below  Greeley,  and  helow 
the  island  in  the  river  covered  with  Cottonwood,  knijwn 
as  "Fremont's  Orchard,"  is  the  location  of  the  South- 
western Colon}'.  It  was  initiated  at  Memphis,  hut  its 
members  are  from  Tennessee,  Kentucky,  Ohio,  Indiana 
and  Illinois.  Its  town  has  been  named  Greensboro,  in 
honor  of  its  chief  projector  and  patron,  Col.  I).  S,  (ireen, 
now  a  citizen  of  Denver,  a  gentleman  well  and  favorably 
known  \n  Colorado.  Lost  Spring  debouches  into  the 
Platte  just  above  the  town  site.  Its  valley,  about  two  and 
a  half  miles  wide,  has  a  soil  of  deej)  alluvial  loam,  as  light 
imd  pliable  as  an  ash  heap,  covered  with  a  most  luxuriant 
growth  of  a  peculiar  kind  of  perennial  gi-ass,  resembling, 
it  is  said,  the  famous  blue  grass  of  Iventuck}-.  At  least 
15,000  acres  of  this  valley  need  no  irrigation,  and  the  same 
may  be  said  of  thousands  of  acres  of  the  Platte  bottom. 
The  broad  expanse  of  uplands  away  from  the  streams 
furnish  excellent  and  unlimited  range  for  pasturage;  and 
the  colonists  are  princi})ally  engaged  as  yet  in  stock-rais- 
ing. Of  their  condition,  i)rogress  and  prospects  I  could 
learn  nothing.  Froni  the  articles  of  association  I  ascer- 
tained that  the  organization  of  this  colony  is  difierent 
from  most  of  the  others  located  in  Colorado.  There  are 
no  restrictions  or  obligations  imposed  on  its  mem]>ers,  no 
communism,  nor  co-operative  interests  provided  for.  Each 
member  has  to  pay  a  moderate  fee  of  membershi]) — one 
liundred  dollars — which  entitles  him  to  special  rates  of 
transportation  to  the  colonial  site,  a  share  in  the  division 
of  the  town  proi>erty,  and  such  other  privileges  as  inhere 


148  OVER  THR  PLAINS    AND  ON  THK  MOl MAINS. 

ill  similar  orixanizations.  Ivu-li  one  is  tht-n  left  free  to 
make  his  own  selection  of  vocation,  and  to  pre-empt  lands, 
<laim  as  hoinestea'l  or  otherwise,  as  he  may  elect.  Theit?  ' 
is  u  railroad  talke<l  of  to  run  from  noiildti-,  liv  way  of 
Lonitmont,  (rreelev  and  Crreenshoro,  down  tlie  vallev  ol' 
the  South  I'latte,  to  connect  Avith  the  I'nion  J^icitic  rail- 
road at  or  near  the  mouth  of  the  stream.  In  that  case, 
ihe  colony  may  hecome  a  thrifty  settlement. 

Tn  tlie  sjiriiii;  of  1S70  there  was  organized  a  German 
Colony  at  Chicago,  umler  the  leadership  of  ('(^1.  Carl 
Wuesten.  This  colony  made  almost  as  much  noise  in  the 
world  as  did  the  (lieeley,  or  more  i>ro])erly,  the  Tniou 
colonv.  ]t  found  its  wav  into  the  hi<xh  valley  of  the 
Sierra  Mojada  (wet  mountains),  in  Puehlo  and  Fremont 
counties,  in  the  southern  part  of  the  tcrritoi-y.  The  vallev 
i.s  south  of  Canyon  C'ity,  located  at  the  mouth  of  the  ean- 
A'on  of  the  Arkansas,  which  there  breaks  Ihroujrh  itn 
mountain  harrier  and  passes  Tipon  the  ])lain.  ^fhe  vallev 
is  shut  in  hy  spurs  of  the  mountain  Tanges.  It  is  well 
Avatered,  abundantly  supplied  with  timber  and  has  excel- 
lent and  extensive  beds  of  bituminous  coal. 

Tliere  is  a  good  deal  of  disalfection  in  this  colony,  and 
charges  of  corruption  and  dishonesty  liavo  been  made 
against  some  of  the  prominent  men  of  the  orgaiuzation. 
Some  memV)ers  liave  left  in  disgust  j  and  in  conversation 
with  them  both  at  J)envcr  and  Jiouldcr,  they  represented 
the  elevation  so  great  and  the  valleys  hemmed  in  by  bleak 
mountains,  that  most  of  the  crops  fail  to  mature  before  the 
frost  nij)s  them. 

I  liavc  no  doubt  that  much  of  this  is  exaggeration,  pro- 
ceeding from  disapj)ointed  ex})ectations.  My  own  obser- 
vations ratlier  would  discredit  the  statement  of  the  failure 
of  the  crop  in  consequence  of  elevation.  I  saw  as  thrifty 
potatoes  as  I  ever  saw,  in  the  uj»])er  y)ai't  «)f  the  canyon  of 
the  Boulder,  at  least  0000  feet  ahove  the  8ea,  and 
was  told  that  the  average  \ield  was  npwai-ds  of  200 
baihels  to  the  acre.     Hill's  ranche,  on  the  Xoi'th  Boulder, 


OVKR   THE  PLAINS  AND  ON  TilJ;  .uutNTAINS.  140 

about  three  miles  east  of  Caribou,  yields  liim  v;"),000  net 
protit  tVoiu  hay  and  vegetables,  and  he  says  winter  wheat 
•  •an  be  successl'ully  cultivated  thei-e.  Thei-e  aiv  three, 
ranches,  Orvis',  Jones'  and  I)c  l/uid's,  all  williin  li\c  iiiilc 
tit'  ('arilioii.  and  at  an  cicvatio'.i  ot'  iH'ai'ly  li>,(>u()  teet, 
wliich  ai'c  cxtrt'incK  pi'nIilaMc  to  tlic  jiniin-icloiN.  who 
make  a  husiiu-ss  of  I'aisinu;;  hay  and  vcL;\'tablcs,  and  wlm 
have  ne\'er  siistaiiu'd  any  serious  Inss  tVoin  frosts  and 
storms.  Jn  (Jilpin  county,  soutli,  and  also  at  tln^  foot  of 
the  Snowy  Kaiii^e,  Hall  it  Hanta's  i-aiudie  has  averaged 
them  §19,000  protit  jier  anninn  IVoni  ti2  acres,  chiefly  in 
potatoes,  tundps,  caldiage,  and  other  vegetables.  Then 
the  success  of  (^iieen.  ('ocliran,  lEickox,  Conner,  etc.,  are 
widl  known  facts.  Therefore,  1  think  the  statement  of 
frost  destroying  the  crops  in  a  more  southern  latitude,  and 
most  pi'obably  at  a  lower  elevation,  must  be  taken  with 
many  grains  of  allowance. 

There  is  another  of  these  colonies,  yet  in  its  infancy, 
loeatcnl  in  lioulder  c(ninty,  about  15  miles  northeast  of 
Boulder  city.  It  is  called  the  C'hicago  ('olorado  colony. 
Wo  had  an  invitation  to  visit  their  location,  but  Ave  had  no 
time  for  tiiat  purpose.  'Ilieir  town,  located  about  a  mile 
north  of  the  village  of  Jiurlington,  is  calleil  Longmont. 
I  think  the  location  the  best  of  any  colony  in  the  territory, 
since  it  is  contiguous  to  the  mountains,  wh«'re  it  must 
eventnall}"  find  a  market  for  its  products,  ami  adjacent  to 
the  settlements  that  extend  along  the  nu)untain  rangi-  the 
entire  width  of  the  teridtory.  It  is  convenient  to  coal 
both  at  Erie  and  l-Joulder;  is  supplied  Avith  lumber  from 
the  mountains,  and  is  well  watered.  It  has  selected  and 
obtained  control  of  about  60,000  acres  of  land  lying  hnigi- 
tudinall}'  across  the  valleys  of  the  Boulder,  Left  .Hand, 
Little  Thompson  and  St.  Vrain's  Fork.  The  soil  is  as 
good  as  any  in  the  tei'ritory,  has  all  needed  facilities  for 
irrigation,  good  water  powei*,  and  being  so  near  the  moun- 
tains has  fine  scenery;  the  snowy  crest  of  Long's  Peak 
rises  majestically  above  the  surrounding  ]»eaks,  almost  due 


150  OVKIl   TllK  I'l.AINS  AND  (iN  TIIK  MOrNTAINS. 

west.  It  will,  from  its  location  porhups,  realize  its  expect- 
ations in  a  shorter  time,  and  ^\■\{\\  tlic  endurance  of  less 
jn-ivations  and  hardships  than  any  colony  in  the  territory. 

The  colony  only  commenced  its  a<i;ricultural  operations 
in  the  sprinij;  of  the  present  year.  It  sowed  considerable 
Avheat,  to  Avhat  extent  I  (li<l  not  loarn  ;  it  has  constructed 
many  of  the  pi'incijial  in-ii^atini;-  canals,  and  was  busy  in 
buildinij;.  A  Mis.  !•].  Thompson,  a  wealthy  lady  from 
Now  Vorlv',  made  the  cdIhiiv  a  donation  of  I'orty  thousand 
dollars  lor  piircliasiiiu;  a  library,  and  she  had  a  building 
]nit  up  that  cost  her  tive  thousand  dollars  more  to  ])ut  the 
library  in.  Some  of  our  party  that  stopped  at  Greeley 
met  her  there  on  her  way  to  Lon<j;mont  on  a  visit;  she 
came  over  to  Boulder  to  join  our  i)arty  in  our  ex- 
cursion up  the  canyon,  l)ut  arrived  too  late,  and  went 
on  to  Denver.  It  will  bi'-  remembered  that  there  is  also 
a  colony  at  Evans,  four  miles  from  Greeley,  of  which  I 
could  learn  nothini;-,  except  what  I  saw,  and  my  im- 
pressions have  already  been  given. 

From  the  altitude  of  Colorado  a  rigorous  climate  would 
be  inferred.  Tlie  jdains  in  the  eastern  ])ortion  of  the  Ter- 
ritory, along  the  State  lines  of  Kansas  and  Xebraska,  arc 
more  than  4000  feet  above  the  sea.  At  Denver  the  eleva- 
tion exceeds  5100  feet,  ami  along  the  mountains  it  is  GOOO 
feet  and  u])\varil.  Between  the  Snowy  Jiange  and  the 
Plains  there  is  a  gradual  ascent;  the  tal)le-land  attaining  an 
elevation  on  an  average  of  a  little  over  8000  feet.  The 
North,  Middle  and  South  ])arks,  encircled  by  the  Snowy 
Jiange,  have  an  altitude  of  about  9000  feet  on  an  average, 
while  the  highest  peaks  attain  an  altitude  of  IVom  14,000 
to  15,000  feet.  Jt  is  elaime<l  that  Mount  Lincoln  is  17,500 
feet ;  and  Silver  Heels  17,000  feet  above  tide  water.  The 
elevation  at  whiclj  timber  ceases  to  grow,  "timber-line," 
as  it  is  called,  is  various;  on  the  Eastern  slope  it  is  11,800 
feet;  on  the  Wi^stern,  11,300,  and  on  the  isolated  peaks  it 
is  over  12,000  feet. 


OVER   THE  I'LAIXa  AND  O.N  THE  MOL'NTAINS.  151 

Scientists  have  given  us  mathematical  formulas  for  de- 
termining climate  from  altitude.  It  is  unnecessary  to 
state  these  formulas,  and  the  reasoning  by  which  they 
have  been  arrived  at.  It  answers  every  purpose  by  mere- 
ly stating  that  in  them,  it  is  assumuil  tluit  an  elevation  of 
every  two  hundred  feet  above  the  level  6f  the  sea  deterior- 
ates a  climate  as  much  as  the  displacement  of  the  locality 
of  one  degree  of  latitude  from  the  equator  towards  the 
polo  would  do.  * 

Now,  while  these  formulas  may  give  approximate  results 
when  applied  to  the  Atlantic  coast  and  to  Europe,  yet, 
when  applied  to  the  continental  plain  and  mountain  sys- 
tem of  Colorado  they  give  results  so  egregiously  erroneous 
as  to  show  their  utter  worthlessness  for  that  purpose. 

I  have  already  stated  that  in  no  way  do  our  Eastern 
standards  of  comparison  serve  us  when  applied  to  Nature's 
operations  in  this  great  mountain  system,  and  these  scien- 
tific formulas  prove  the  truth  of  the  assertion.  According 
to  deductions  drawn  from  them,  the  table-land  of  the  Cor- 
dilleras would  have  the  climate  of  northern  Greenland, 
and  the  Plains  along  their  foot  even  more  rigorous  than 
that  of  the  coast  of  Labrador.  But  observation  has  estab- 
lished it  as  an  incontrovertible  fact  that  the  Plains  along 
the  mountains  in  Colorado  have  the  climate  of  the  same 
latitude  along  the  Atlantic  coast,  and  that  the  climate  of 
the  most  elevated  table-lands  of  the  mountains  corresponds 
with  that  of  three  degrees  higher  latitude  on  the  Atlantic 
sea-board. 

Another  error  in  regard  to  the  climate  of  Colorado  is 
that  its  aridity  is  owing  to  the  want  of  precipitation. 
Now,  the  fact  is,  the  amount  of  annual  precipitation  on  the 
mountain  is  nearly  thirty-four  inches,  and  that  of  the  Plains 
a  fraction  over  twenty.  The  aridity,  therefore,  is  due  to 
other  causes  than  want  of  pi-ecipitation.  First  it  takes 
more  vapor  under  a  given  pressure  to  saturate  a  rare  than 

*.Sep  article,  Climate,  in  Cyclopedia  of  Physical  Sciences. 


l.'>2  OVKK  TlIK  PLAINS    AND  ON  THE  MOUNTAINS. 

a  rft'n^e  atmopphoro  ;  great  elevation,  producing  rarity  of" 
auuosphere,  is,  thoret'ore,  the  controlling  oau8e,  since  it 
Tiot  only  rarities  \hc  air,  luit  reduces  also  the  boiling  point. 
I  ascertained  at  Caribou  that  the  boiling  point  of  water^ 
tliat  is  total  evaporation,  was  191.8  degi-ees  Fahrenheit, 
while  on  the  seashore  it  is  212  degrees.  Now,  sinct'  water 
evaporates  at  all  temperatures,  even  when  frozen,  there- 
lore,  in  the  elevated  regions  of  Colorado,  a  given  amount 
of  water,  at  any  degree  of  temperature,  evaporates  as 
much  as  the  same  quantity  chx's  at  the  seashore  with  a 
tomperaturc  twenty  degrees  higher.  Consequently  vege- 
talile  and  animal  substances  are  more  speedily  desiccated 
tiiere  than  in  less  elevated  regions.  Hence  it  is  that  fresh 
meats  hung  up  in  the  free  air  never  putrify,  but  dry  up 
tiweet.  Hence,  also,  there  is  so  little  decay  of  animal  and 
vegetable  substance  that  no  noxious  ofHuvia  arises  from 
the  one,  nor  miasma  from,  the  other.  To  the  aridity  of  its 
climate  (Colorado  owes  its  remarkable  exemption  from  all 
kinds  of  bilious  diseases.  The  thermometer  often  in  Den- 
ver indicates  a  greater  heat  by  five  degrees  than  wo  expe- 
rience in  the  trough  of  the  Mississippi  Valley.  Yet  sun- 
strokes are  unknown;  because  it  is  im])ossible  for  Ji  dry 
atmosphere  to  become  sultry,  sweltering,  smothering  and 
oppressive.  It  mattcn?  not  how  Avarm  it  is,  the  air  is  al- 
ways elastic  and  exhilarating,  because  evaporation  is  con- 
stant from  our  bodies.  Climate  unquestionably  exerts  an 
immeasurable  influence  on  every  living  organism  in  both 
tJie  animal  and  vt'gclablc  kingdom.  To  a  nation  of  inva- 
lids, (for  such  we  must  b(?  taken  to  be,  if  our  sanitaiy  con- 
dition is  measured  by  the  amount  of  mcHlicine  we  consume), 
it  will  be  welcome  news  to  Ix^  told  that  within  our  own 
borders  there  is  a  climate  that  jiroduces  almost  as  marvel- 
ous effects  as  the  Spanish  cavaliers  expected  to  realize 
from  the  fabled  Fountain  of  Youth  which  they  sought  in 
vain  in  the  malarious  fens  and  bogs  of  Florida.  The  influ- 
ence ot  this  atmosphere  is  remarkable,  as  is  testified  by 
general  cxiicricrjfc.     It,  is   entirely    i'rt'n  from    humidity. 


OVER   THE  Pr.AINS  AND  OX  THE  MOUNTAINS.  155 

wonderfully  clear,  exhilarating  smd  health  insjiiring. 
Mists  and  fogs,  exeept  when  rain  and  snow  arc  falling, 
arc  unknown.  The  absenee  of  elouds,  the  elear  inlcnsely 
hlue  sky,  and  a  hrilliant  sunshine  are  remarkalile,  the 
3'ear  round.  Colorado  has  a  wide  spread  celebrity  already 
lor  releaving  and  curing  tubercular  and  pulmonary  affec- 
tions, general  debility,  scrofula,  dispepsia,  asthma,  bron- 
chitis, enlargement  of  the  liver,  splenetic;  diseases,  etc.,  and 
not  without  cause,  for  at  least  one-third  of  her  present 
population  are  reconstructed  individuals. 

Dvspeptics  soon  recover  their  lost  power  of  assimilation 
and  become  vigorous  and  more  robust  than  evt'r.     There 
are  many  there  who  had  been  afflicted  with  bronchitis  and 
other   throat  affections,  Avho    had    tried   Minnesota,   the 
West  Indies,  California  and  sea  voyages  without  eff^^et; 
wlio,  as  a  tinal  resort,  took  U]>  their  sojourn  in  Colorado, 
and  are  now  s£)und  and  well.     Consumptives  who  come 
liere  before  the  ravages  of  the  disease  have  wasted  the  re- 
cuperative vitixl  energy,  almost  certainly  recover;  others 
become  comparatively  comfortable,  even  regaining  a  con- 
siderable  degree   of  vigor.      Many,   however,  come  too 
late,  that  is  in  the  last  stages  of  the  disease.     In  such  cases 
a  crisis  ensues  at  once,  followed  in  a  few  days  or  weeks  by  a 
fatal  termination.     The  cause  of  this  is  self-evident.     They 
are  brought  here  from  a  dense  atmosphere  in  which  all  the 
demands  of  vitality  are  gatistiod  by  using  from  one-half  to 
two-thirds  of  the  capacity   of  their  lungs,  while  here  in 
this  raritied  air  the  full  capacity  of  every  lung  cell  is  taxed, 
and  then  cannot  satisfy  the  demand  ;  for  to  make  up  the  de- 
ficiency the  respiration  is  accelerated  fifty  ])er  cent,  that  is^ 
from  sixteen  to  twenty-four  times  per  minute.     The  full 
inflation  of  lungs  and  the  accelerated  motion  must  ])ro- 
duce  ruptures  in  diseased  cells,  hence  the  iatal  crisis  that 
speedily  ensues.     Before  railroads  penetrated  here,  when 
it  took  thirty  to  fortv  davs  to  make  the  iournev,  more 
desperate  cases  were  cured  than  now;  because  the  strain 
on  the  lungs,  caused  by  the  increasing  rarity  of  the  air. 


154  OVER   THE  PLAINS  AND  ON  THE  MOUNTAINS. 

■was  so  o-i"nclual  that  the  slio-ht  lesions  had  time  t<>  hoal.  I 
"wouUl  thcrctoro  give  this  advice  to  all  consumptives: 
Make  the  journey  by  easy  stages;  say  first  stop  over  ten 
days  or  more  at  Abilene,  Salina  or  Brookville  on  the  Kan- 
sas Pacilic,  all  of  which  points  arc  from  1,000  to  1,200  feet 
above  the  sea.  Then,  if  no  unfavorable  symptoms  have 
made  their  appearance,  go  to  Hays,  nearly  1,000  feet 
higher;  thence  to  Wallace,  some  1,200  feet  higher  still; 
thence  to  Kit  Carson,  about  1,000  feet  higher  than  Wal- 
lace ;  thence  to  some  of  the  towns  at  the  foot  of  the 
mountains;  and  not  to  ascend  the  mountains  until  a 
decided  improvement  has  intervened.  By  following  these 
suggestions,  many  will  be  permanently  cured,  others 
relieved,  who  would  rush  in  the  very  jaws  of  death  if 
they  go  there  at  once,  as  many  now  do,  as  fast  as  steam 
can  carry  them,  Avhich  is  in  about  two  days  fi'om  the 
Mississippi. 

It  is  now  gencrall}'  conceded  by  physicians  and  physi- 
ologists that  the  phosphates  possess  great  medicinal  value 
in  the  treatment  of  tubercular  and  other  diseases  involv- 
ing enfeebled  vital  functions.  The  soil  on  the  Plains,  ad- 
jacent to  the  mountains,  is  the  c?efnYM5  of  feldspar  disinteg- 
rating slowly,  through  myriads  of  years  on  the  moun- 
tains, and  carried  down  and  deposited  by  floods.  The 
constituent  elements  of  fiehlspar,  which  is  a  silcate,  are 
silcx,  soda,  lime,  ])otassium,  magnesia,  etc.  Hence,  the  soil 
is  rich  in  these  alkalies.  In  fact  the  first  crop  of  wheat, 
Taised  in  some  localities,  was  so  much  embued  with  alka- 
line matter  that  tlif  Hour  made  of  it  would  eff'ervesce 
with  an  acid  and  would  almost  make  "  suds  "  l)y  adding 
lard  anil  watei-;  and   the  Iji-cad  could  not  be  eaten  atall. 

Dr.  Chambers,  an  eminent  English  ph^'sician,  in  his  lec- 
tures on  the '•' Renewal  of  Life,"  gives  this  sensible  rule 
on  this  subject : 

"In  choosing  a  liome  for  your  consumptive,  do  not  mind 
the  average  liight  of  the  thermonxeter,  or  its  variations; 
•do  not  trouble  yourself  about  the  mean  rain-fall;  do  not 


0^'Ea    THK  PLAIN'S  AND  OX  THE  MOCNTAIXS.  155 

Hbc  scientific  :it  :ill;  but  fiml  out  froui  somebody's  journal 
how  many  duyH  wvvo  fine  ciK)UL;-h  to  <^()  out  foi'Ciiooii  and 
'.afternoon.  TJjat  is  tlie  test  3'ou  rt'(|uii-c,  and  by  tbat  you 
•  may  be  confidently  guided."  ■ 

Judged  1*3'  this  standard  Coloratlo  is  one  of  the  most 
'favored  spots  on  the  earth  for  a  home  of  the  consumptive. 
There  is  not  a  score  of  days  in  any  year  that  invalids 
ma}' not  sit  out  of  doors,  ride  oi*  walk  forenoon  or  after- 
noon "without  any  discomfort.  Then  the  nights  are 
always  cool  so  as  to  ensure  refreshing  sleep,  an  essential 
condition  for  the  restoration  of  shattered  iiervous  systems 
and  broken  down  constitutions. 

Another  favorable  condition  is  the  dryness  of  the  atmos- 
phere. There  is  no  such  thing  as  "damp  night  air." 
There  is  no  ''taking  cold"  if  j^ou  sleep  with  doors  and 
windows  wide  open  summer  and  winter.  Invalids  can 
sleep  on  the  open  plains  or  mountain  recesses,  wrapped  in 
a  pair  of  blankets  -without  incurring  any  risk.  The  new, 
varied  and  sublime  scenery  inspires  to  activity,  and  the 
pure  exhilerating  air  and  mild  climate  invite  to  outdoor 
life.  In  obeying  these  impulses  lies  the  great  secret  of  the 
anany  wonderful  cures  a  residence  here  has  effected. 


156  UVER    TMK  l'L.\l.\.S  AM)  (.>N  THE  MOUXTAINS. 


CHAPTEK  XTII. 

The  Ibiiiuliiigof  lu'w  c<)ininuiiitK'.s  on  ilic  I'ronlier  ofoivil- 
izjition,  wlu'tlu'i"  done  iiulividually  or  collectively,  is  ac- 
complished at  llic  sacriticc  of  tem])()raiy  case  and  comfort. 
The  liardships  ami  privations  it  impoHCH  ai'c  longer  or 
t-horter  in  duration  as  the  location  lias  been  judiciously 
made  with  regard  to  favorable  sui-roundings.  A  main 
jioiut  is  to  secure  a  location  in  the  direction  that  the  cur- 
rent of  migration  is  strongly  tending;  and  the  next  point 
is  not  to  make  it  too  far  m  advance,  unless  overruling  con- 
hiderations  det(,rniine  it  otherwise.  Immigration  can  very 
aptlv  be  compared  to  the  movements  of  those  large  flocks 
of  wild  pigeons  in  their  migrations  from  higher  to  lower 
latitudes  and  rice  versa.  Invading  a  grain  field,  the  rear 
is  constantly  flying  over  to  the  front.  Therefore  the  front 
soon  becomes  the  rear,  and  the  field  in  a  shoi't  time  is 
cleanly  ])icked  over  and  crossed.  Settlers  on  the 
frontier  of  Ivajisas  and  Nebraska,  that  this  year  ai-e  locat- 
ing ju.st  in  limit  where  the  last  year's  wave  of  migration  ex- 
pended itself,  by  next  year  find  that  the  new  wave  has 
hwept  over  and  beyond  them,  and  now  rolls  on  thirty  or 
fortv  miles  ahead.  In  a  vear  ov  so  more,  the\'  will  find 
themselves  so  fiir  m  the  rear  that  they  are  no  bjngcr  able 
to  tell  how  far  an<l  to  what  ])oint  the  front  line  has  ad- 
vanced. 

In  that  liiuc  they  will,  however,  lind  that  the  condition 
of  their  coiniriiinity  is  iiiii)r(jving  ;  and  tliat  surrounding 
circumstances  are  more  favorable,  in  fjict  tliey  find  that 
[■roHpei-ity  is  dawning  upon  thcni.  Five  or  six  years 
more  and  they  find  themselves  suiTcjuntled  liv  all  tliecom- 


OVER    THE  PJiArys  AND  ON'  THK   MOr  NTArNS.  l')? 

forts  anil  ;uin'iiiLio3  of  loiii;  established  iiiul  ('(iiiHoliJitted 

in? 

<'ommuiiitie.s. 

Immigration  is  rapidly  fillinu;  up  Colorado,  l>iiL  ihon'  it 
no  onward  wave  there  at  present,  rising  liigher  and 
Jiigher,  and  rolling  farther  West  every  year,  much  less  a 
reflex  wave  coming  back  on  the  Plains.  Tlie  gold  and 
silver  regions,  the  coves  and  parks  of  the  mountains,  and 
the  plains  imniediately  along  their  base,  are  the  o})jective 
points  lirsi  attracting  immigrants,  for  reasons  that  in  all 
ages  have  swayed  and  determined  the  migrations  of  man- 
kind. 

In  migrating,  luan's  physical  wants  are  always  the 
paramf)unt  considerations  that  govern  him.  His  first  anci 
absolute  necessities  everywhere  are  food  and  raiment. 
Hence  he  is  impelled  to  select  the  localit}'  where  these  are 
to  be  found  ;  or  where  the  means  for  procuring  them  can 
be  obtained.  He  may  safely  undertake  to  cultivate  the 
soil  if  he  have  a  reserve  to  draw  upon,  until  the  soil  has 
time  to  I'emunerate  him  for  the  capital  and  toil  expended 
upon  it.  After  that  it  will  supply  his  bare  necessities, 
liut  luxuries,  and  even  comforts,  must  remain  in  abeyance, 
not  only  until  he  has  a  surplus  of  productions,  but  a  mai-- 
ket  tor  that  sur])lus.  Agricultural  products  are  too  bulky 
to  bear  the  expense  of  transportation  over  long  distances ; 
therefore  in  remote  and  isolated  communities  the  demand 
for  them  is  limited  to  supplying  the  deficiency  in  the  com- 
munity itself.  The  outside  trader  or  merchant  shuns  such 
communities,  not  because  his  wares  are  not  wanted  or 
needed  there,  but  because  he  cannot  make  available  for 
his  purposes  what  he  has  to  take  in  exchange  for 
them. 

But  if  the  precious  metals  are  discovered  anyAvhere,  it 
matters  not  what  long  journej^s  they  have  to  make,  what 
deserts  to  be  passed,  what  mountain  precipices  to  be 
.scaled,  what  dangers  to  be  encountered,  and  what  hard- 
ships to  be  endured,  the  merchant  and  trader  are  there 
almost  as  soon  as  tlie  miner.     He  is  not  only   there  with 


158  OVER   THE  PLAINS  AXD  ON  THE  MOUNTAINS. 

tlie  bare  necessities,  but  -with  the  luxuries  and  eomforts-- 
<tf  civilized  life,  for  all  to  induliro  in  Avho  can  afford  the- 
means.  Tlie  pioneer  to  Colorado  therefore  knows  the 
shortest  way  for  him  to  provide  for  the  -wants  and  com- 
forts of  himself  and  family,  is  to  delve  into  these  moun- 
tains and  bring  up  the  precious  metals. 

But  the  mountains  are  not  a  total  barren  waste  of  rocks 
and  precipices;  for  larije  areas  are  covered  -with  the  lus- 
ii(tus  buffalo  grass;  and  the  dells  and  coves  are  decked 
Avith  the  living  green  of  the  wild  timothy  and  blue  grass. 
The  settlers  bring  in  domestic  animals;  milk  and  butter 
and  cheese  dairies  spring  up  to  supply  the  wants  of  the 
mining  towns  and  camps.  And  such  butter  as  is  made 
here  !  Ah  !  the  dwellers  in  the  trough  of  the  Mississippi 
A'alley,  can  have  no  conception  what  a  luxiiry  sweet,  deli- 
cious and  aromatic  butter  is. 

The  mountain  dells  are  also  well  adapted  1o  the  growth 
of  oats,  hay  and  garden  vegetables,  especially  turnips  and 
'•abbage,  which  grow  to  an  enormous  size.  All  these  find 
ready  sale  and  at  highly  remunerative  jirices  in  the  min- 
ing camps,  as  has  been  stated  more  particularly  elsewhere. 
I  was  told  by  old  mountaineers  that  there  was  more  money 
in  a  good  hay  or  vegetable  ranche,  than  in  any  placer  in 
the  mountains.  This  certainly  has  been  the  case,  as  many 
of  these  ranchemen  have  realized  comfortable  fortunes  by 
their  business;  but  the  extension  of  railroads  into  the 
mountains  will  interfere  with  their  large  profits  by  bring- 
ing them  m  competition  with  the  i-anchemen  on  the. 
I'lains. 

The  Plains  along  the  base  of  the  mountains  are  selected' 
by  settlers  for  special,  as  well  as  for  general  reasons. 
They  are  admirably  adapted  for  raising  all  kinds  of  stock 
to  supply  the  wants  of  the  mountain  settlements.  They 
are  extremely  fertile,  and  as  we  have  seen,  unerpialed  for 
raising  the  cerials,  either  as  to  quantity  and  quality. 
Land  near  the  mountiiins,  besides  its  contiguity  to  the 
only  real  market  that  ever  will  be  there,  is  more  desirable 


OVER   THE  PLAINS  AND  ON  THE  MOUNTAINS.  159 

and  valuable  than  land  more  remote.  They  ai'e  ut)i  only 
nearer  to  an  abundance  of  Avater,  and,  tlierefore,  i-asily 
and  cheaply  irrigated,  but  the  climate  is  fiir  milder  and 
more  equable  than  farther  off,  down  on  the  Plains. 
From  10  to  15  miles  along  the  base  of  the  mountains, 
Rtock,  nine  years  out  often,  have  no  need  either  of  shel- 
ter or  provender  during  the  Avintcr,  making  their  own  liv- 
ing and  thriving  on  the  dried  buffalo  grass,  the  luitural 
hay  of  the  Plains. 

Lower  down  on  the  Plains,  in  proportion  as  you  recede 
from  the  mountains,  the  snow  falls  deeper,  lies  longer  on 
the  ground,  and  the  cold  is  severer.  Stock  has  not  only 
to  be  housed  but  jirovender  provided  to  feed  "with  during 
the  time  that  the  Plains  are  covered  with  snow.  There; 
are  exceptional  seasons  -whon  this  is  not  absolutely  neces- 
sary, but  generally  it  would  be  disastrous  not  to  be  pro- 
vided to  meet  such  contingencies. 

The  reasons  are  therefore  very  plain  win-  immigration 
flows  into  the  mountains,  or  spreads  settlements  only 
along  their  base.  WJien  railroads,  as  they  will  before 
many  j^ears,  once  ])enetrate  and  pierce  through  these 
mountains,  as  they  are  metaliferous  through  their  entire 
breadth,  settlements  will  rapidly  extend  farther  "West,  un- 
til the  remaining  gap  is  closed,  and  the  westward  tide  of  mi- 
gration that  has  flowed  from  time  immemorial  will  cease 
forever.  A  reflex  Avave  recoiling  from  the  mountains  and 
rolling  eastward,  has  yet  scarcely  commenced.  It  never  will 
have  much  impetus,  and  will  move  slowly  and  cautiously. 
The  obstacles  to  settlement  on  the  Plains  cast  of  the 
Platte  are  trul}-  foi-midable.  The  most  serious  are  the 
want  of  living  streams,  for  Stock  and  irrigation  in  sum- 
mer;  and  the  severity  and  long  continuance  of  the  wintei"8. 
To  remedy  the  first  evil,  it  is  said  that  the  Kansas  Pacific 
TJailroad  Company,  who  own  millions  of  acres  on  these 
Plains,  has  it  in  contemplation  to  carry  the  waters  of  the 
South  Platte  from  the  mouth  of  the  canyon  where  they 
debouch  upon  the  Plains,  in  a  canal  eastward  to  the  head 


160  UNKR    TflE  I'LAINS  AM)  0.\  Till;   >U)rNTAl\.S. 

8prino;s  of  1  ho  Smoky  Hill.  This  is  entirely  feasible,  but 
■whether  it  i-an  bo  done  eompatible  with  the  riglits  and 
interests  of  settlers  on  the  Philte  below,  is  a  serious  ques- 
tion. 

This  is  ;\  remote  ami  almost  unknown  re<;ion.  Thou<;'h 
oonsi(ieral)le  has  been  Avritten  and  j)ublished  about  it  of  a 
_fjeneral  character,  yet  nolhinti;  specific  enough  to  enubh' 
anyone  to  form  a  definite  idea  of  its  capabilities,  natural 
resources,  soil  and  climate.  Ample  reasons  therefore  ex- 
ist for  giving  these  minute  details.  It  is  performing  a 
good  service  to  those,  contemplating  settling  here,  to 
furnish  them  with  relial)le  facts  as  to  the  inducements  held 
out  liere  to  immigrants,  and  what  arc  the  influences  liere 
-determining  locations  of  settlements.  In  order  that  they 
may  be  enabled  to  select  their  location  judiciously,  I  have 
endeavored  to  furnish  them  with  a  survey  of  the  whole 
field  in  advance.  My  sole  object  is  to  benefit  those  going 
into  the  territoiy  whether  for  pleasure,  recreation, 
health  or  settlement.  I  have  no  object  in  view,  and  no 
interests  to  subserve  except  those  of  truth.  As  far  as  the 
modes  of  settlement  are  concerned,  truth  does  not  permit 
me  to  speak  very  flatteringly  of  the  colonies  estahlished 
liere.  How  could  I,  when  it  is  notorious  that  great  dissat- 
isfiiction  exists  in  nearly  all  of  them.  (Charges  of  mis- 
management, cf)rruj)tion,  selfishness,  with  crimination  and 
)-e-crimination  are  i-ife  in  neai'ly  all  of  them.  I  have  not 
assumed  to  judge  who,  if  any  one,  is  in  fault;  ]»refering 
the  more  charitable  course,  to  attriltute  their  internal  oon- 
tlition  to  the  inherent  viciousness  of  tlu^  system  which  is 
not  adai)tc(l  to  the  condition  of  things  here.  However, 
the  manager  of  om;  of  tliese  colonies  lias  taken  offence  at 
my  remarks  as  applied  to  his  colony;  and  in  one  of  the 
leading  paj)ers  in  the  territory  charged  that  favorable  re- 
ports could  be  had  of  all  itinerant  scribblers,  if  they 
would  take  charge  of  them,  give  them  free  lunch  and 
plenty  of  whisky;  adding,  that  to  do  the  latter  would  bo 
difficult,  since  there  was  not  a  place  in  town  where  it  wa« 


OVER  TUE  PLAINS  AND  ON   THE   MOUNTAINS.  101 

sold.  I  now  publish  thi.s  as  an  important  fact  and  one 
which  I  could  not  have  discovered  in  a  j-oar's  exploration  ; 
my  investigations  not  tending  in  that  direction.  I  think 
it  however  entirely  relial)le,  for  other  "  itinerant  scril)- 
l)lers"  have  been  thci-e  since,  and  state  it  to  l)e  a  liict, 
but  in  compensation,  for  its  absence,  medicine  for  curing 
.snake  bites  is  plenty,  and  answers  just  as  well. 

I  now  repeat  the  advice  to  all  desiring  to  go  to  Colo- 
rado for  settlement,  go  alone,  be  your  own  colony,  free  to 
^o  where  you  please  and  to  exercise  your  own  judgment 
when  you  get  there,  so  that  you  may  select  the  location 
best  adapted  to  your  purpose  or  pursuit.  If  you  go  with 
Si,  colony,  you  cannot  do  this.  You  have  to  locate  where 
it  locates,  spend  your  money  in  providing  shelter  for 
yourself  and  family  j  and  when  that  is  done  find  3-our  ex- 
chequer exhausted,  and  without  remunerative  employ- 
ment to  keep  the  ravenous  wolf  of  hunger  from  your  door 
Away  from  the  mountains,  your  colony  is  at  a  disadvan- 
tage in  getting  a  market  for  its  products,  or  of  transport- 
ino-  them  where  there  is  a  market.  Bcsid(!s  the  colony 
affording  no  great  diversity  in  pursuits  its  i)roductions 
will  be  small  and  chiefly  of  one  kind  glutting  the  little 
market  there  is.  But,  in  the  vicinity  of  the  mines,  or  in 
the  towns  whence  the  miners  draw  their  supplies,  there  is 
a  demand  for  all  kinds  of  fabrics  and  productions.  Tillers 
of  the  soil  are  wanted  as  well  as  miners,  metallurgists,  ma- 
chinists, experts  in  the  different  operations  and  treatment  to 
which  the  ores  in  process  of  reduction  must  be  subjected. 
Here  artificers  in  w^ood,  in  stone,  iron,  brass,  clay,  hides, 
leather,wool  and  lint  are  all  in  demand,  to  carry  on  the  in- 
dustrial machiner}'.  Like  elsewhere,  some  localities  are 
better  than  others  for  particular  pursuits.  All  that  is  neces. 
sary  is  that  the  adventurer  is  free  to  select,  from  all  the  lo- 
calities offering,  the  one  best  calculated  for  the  success  of 
Ms  particular  business.  This  is  my  advice,  and  I  believe  it 
to  be  the  surest  and  safest  that  can  be  given.    It  is,  however, 

11 


162  OVER    THK  PLAINS  AND  ON  TUB  MOl  NTAINS. 

optional  with  each  immigrant  to  follow  it,  or  not,  as  his 
judgment  may  determine  when  he  gota  there.  But  let 
hira  go  untrammellod. 


/ 


OVEa   THE  PL.UNS  AND  O.V  TUK  MOUNTAINS,  163 


CHAPTER  XIV.  • 

Animal  life  depends  upon  plant  life;  and  plant  life 
Tipon  tho  presence  of  a  proper  plant  food  in  the  soil. 
Plants,  like  animals  of  different  genera,  feed  upon  different 
kinds  of  food.  Some  subsist  entirely  upon  mineral  mat- 
ter, some  require  both  mineral  and  vegetable  food;  and 
another  class,  the  epiphytes,  depend  entirely  upon  decom- 
posed vegetable  matter  The  first  class  will  thrive  any- 
where, under  flivorable  conditions,  where  mineral  sub- 
Btances  alone  are  present.  Not  only  so,  but  they  have  the 
faculty  of  decomposing  crude  mineral  matter  containing 
their  food,  if  it  be  not  fveo.  The  most  priraativo  forms 
of  plants  belong  to  this  class. 

Tho  higher  order  of  plants,  in  so  far  as  they  depend  on 
mineral  food,  must  have  it  free  in  the  soil,  because  they 
have  not  the  ability  to  decompose  rocks.  Neither  have 
they  tho  faculty  of  decomposing  vegetable  and  animal 
matter;  therefore  this  part  of  their  food  must  also  bo  free 
in  tho  soil,  already  decomposed,  stored  up  and  subject  to 
their  draft  in  such  quantities  as  they  may  need  to  perform 
their  function  in  Nature's  economy. 

Of  epiphytes  and  other  parasitic  plants,  it  is  not  neces- 
sary to  speak  here,  since  wo  have  no  purpose  of  writing  a 
general  treatise  upon  plants,  and  tho  variety  of  their  food, 
but  only  of  making  some  brief  remarks  upon  favorable 
conditions,  for  abundantly  growing  those  absolutely  es- 
sential to  man.  These  may  be  termed  the  omnivorous 
class,  since  they  can  flourish  only  where  there  arc  abund- 
ant stores  of  decomposed  matter,  mineral,  animal  and 
vegetable,  laid  up  for  them.  A  little  reflection  reveals  the 
fact  that  they  comprise  grasses,  grains,  fruit>?,  etc.;  in  fact 


164  OVER   THE  PLAINS  AND  ON  THE  MOUNTAINS. 

all  phmts  that  serve  for  food  to  animals,  and  which  man 
has  to  produce  to  sustain  his  herds,  his  Hocks  and  himself. 

It  is  evident  that  every  crop  he  produces,  makes  a  draft 
upon  the  different  kind  of  plant  food  stored  up  in  the  soil. 
If  he  removes  the  crop  from  the  field  on  which  it  grew, 
he  impoverishes  the  soil  to  the  extent  of  the  draft  made  by 
the  crop  upon  its  stores; -and  lessens  its  ability  to  meet 
subsecpient  demands  upon  it.  This  reveals  a  necessity 
imposed  upon  man,  to  make  restitution  in  some  way  of  the 
amount  withdrawn,  and  to  keep  up  ample  deposites  in 
bank,  or  his  drafts  Avill  come  back  dishonored. 

To  keep  a  suflficient  surplus  on  deposite,  and  of  the  right 
kind  of  funds,  are  serious  questions  which  have  vexed 
man  ever  since  he  became  a  waster  of  stores  in  other  re- 
spects than  in  terra-culture.  Plants  do  not  relish  in- 
diiferentl}'  all  minerals,  but  each  kind  of  plant  affects 
particular  minerals,  and  must  have  a  full  supply  to  meet 
its  wants,  or  it  will  fail  to  accomplish  the  task  assigned  to 
it,  or  expected  of  it.  Some  plants  demand  salicates,  oth- 
ers carbonates,  Avhile  others  must  have  phosphates  and 
others  again  sulphates.  The  problem  therefore  is  a  com- 
plicated one  which  demands  a  solution  from  the  farmer, 
even  when  viewed  only  from  the  mineral  standpoint; 
while  it  is  no  less  complicated  while  viewed  from  the 
standpoint  of  vegetable  and  animal  manures.  "Worse  than 
all  is  the  fact,  that  whatever  may  be  claimed  for  Agricul- 
tural Chemistry,  it  is  entirely  unable  to  aid  him  to  deter- 
mine, whether  all  the  elements  of  fertility  are  present  in 
the  soil,  and  in  the  exact  proportions  necessary  to  satisfy 
the  demands  of  his  various  crops. 

I  do  not  subscribe  to  the  doctrine  that  soil  leaches  except 
the  surplus  of  saturation ;  for  Nature  is  all  harmony. 
There  is  the  most  cordial  relations  and  amenity  between 
her  ftrdinate  and  co-ordinate  departments,  between  organic 
and  inorganic  substances,  and  between  dead  and  living 
matter,  for  Nature  lias  ordained  them  to  be  inter-depend- 
cnt.     The  soil  as  the  harbinger  of  the  plant,  most  kindly 


OVER  THE  PLAINS  AND  ON  THE  MOUNTAINS.      165 

prepares  the  way  in  laying  up  stores  for  it,  and  hy  an  in- 
exorable law  holds  them  till  the  plant,  the  only  proper 
claimant,  appears.  Therefore  wherever  there  is  a  point 
where  there  is  a  surplus  of  plant  food  accumulating  over 
and  above  what  can  be  stored  away,  whether  mineral 
or  vegetable,  it  l)Ccomes  the  radiant  point  from  which  the 
elements  of  fertility  depart  to  be  distributed.  Since  water 
is  the  most  efficient  agent  in  effecting  this  distribution, 
therefore  the  radiant  point  should  be  the  summit  and  sides 
of  a  Avatcrshed,  the  sources  and  fountains  of  brooks  and 
rivers. 

Applying  these  general  principles  to  Colorado,  (but 
they  apply  with  equal  force  to  all  the  States  that  lie  on  or 
flank  the  Andean  Chain  ),  we  see  at  a  glance  what  an  im- 
mense advantage  terra-culturalists  there  have  over  those 
in  the  trough  of  the  Yallejr  of  the  ^ifississippi,  or  on  the 
Altantic  Slope.  The  granite,  gneiss,  feldspar,  quarts, 
metamorphic  and  igneous  rocks  of  the  mountain  chain, 
contain  silica,  lime,  magnesia,  soda,  and  potash;  the  ores 
thev  carry  are  either  sulphurets  or  carbonates ;  and  many 
springs  are  living  fountains  of  soda-water,  carbonate, 
chlorate  and  sulphate.  The  mountains  also  are  deposites 
of  immense  beds  of  vegetable  and  animal  mold,  the  accu- 
mulated stores  of  myriads  of  j-ears  elapsed  since  plants 
grew  on  and  animals  roamed  over  them.  The  soil  and 
subsoil  are  sujier-saturated  with  these  fertilizing  ingredi- 
ents; and  therefore  they  are  ready  to  j'ield  up  at  all  times 
their  surplus  to  living  water  running  down  the  mountain 
slopes  after  rains,  or  from  melting  snows. 

The  waters  flowing  from  these  mountains  to  the  plains 
below,  are  therefore  strongly  impregnated  Avith  all  the 
ingredients  of  plant  food,  ready  to  deposite  them  there  if 
man  so  direct;  but  if  not,  to  carry  them  forward  to  the 
sea.  If  anj^one  doubts  the  fertilizing  projierties  of 
waters  flowing  from  any  highlands,  let  him  tell  us  the 
secret  of,  the  exuberant  fertility  of  the  alluvial  deposites 
along  all  rivers  and  streams  from  the  centre  of  continents 


y 


166  OVER  TIIK    PLAINS  AND  ON  TlIK  MOUNTAINS. 

to  the  seas.  Let  liiin  tell  us  whenco  are  derived  the  fer- 
tilizing qualities  of  muck,  so  much  valued  in  the  mountain 
districts  of  the  Eastern  States.  Let  us  know  why  it  is 
that  the  valley  of  the  Nile  has  produced  without  artificial 
manuring,  annual  crops  from  time  immemorial,  and  is  to- 
day as  jjroductive  as  it  was  in  the  days  of  Joseph. 

P^rom  the  fourteenth  to  the  sixteenth  centurj^,  during 
which  Spain  attuined  the  liighest  summit  of  lier  power, 
glory  and  pros])crily;  when  her  soil  was  the  graiuiry  of 
the  world;  when  her  ])huns  sustained  a  denser  po])ulation 
than  ever  before  or  since ;  she  constructed  those  immense 
dams  whose  remains  are  still  found  across  her  mountain 
gorges,  making  reservoirs  to  receive  and  retain  the  waters 
of  the  winter  rains  and  snows  to  ho  used  in  summer  for 
irrigating  her  arid  plains. 

The  ability  of  Asia  to  sustain  a  population  numbenng 
nearly  to  a  thousand  million,  and  for  tlujusands  of  years, 
is  owing  to  the  application  she  has  made  of  her  waters 
whose  sources  are  on  the  k)ftiest  mountains  of  the  Globe. 
Irrigation  is  the  majricwand  1)\-  wlii'-h  she  transformed 
arid  wastes  into  fruitful  fields,  and  nvulc  "  the  desert  blos- 
som like  the  rose."'  Where  the  system  has  been  kept  u]>, 
as  in  ('hinaand  India,  there  has  been  neither  deterioration 
in  ])roducts  nor  decrease  in  poj)idation.  But  in  Pei-sia 
and  in  the  valley  of  the  Euphrates,  where'the  system  lias 
measurably  fallen  into  desuetude,  there  have  been  degra- 
dation of  soil  and  climate,  failure  of  agricultural  products, 
and  depopulation  as  a  necessary  consequence  of  destitution 
and  starvation.  Irrigation,  though  practiced  in  the  East 
from  time  immcmoi-ial,  was  not  introduced  into  Europe 
until  Home  reached  the  summit  of  her  power  and  great- 
ness. JJy  its  introduction  into  Italy,  a  writer  of  the 
highest  authority  for  accuracy  ways,  "  Large  unproductive 
districts  wero  made  to  yield  pustenance  for  }iiindre<ls  of 
thousands  of  animals,  and  for  millions  of  men." 

The  Spaniards  brought  the  system  to  Jlexieo  and  all 
Spanish  America,  whence  it  spread  along  the  Andean  Cor- 


OVER    THE  PL.VINS  AND  ON  THE  MOUNTAINS.  167 

dilleras  both  north  and  south  with  the  Spaiu-sh  sottlo- 
incritH,  being  thus  introduced  into  Sonoru,  Californiu  and 
Now  Mexiot). 

Since  the  advent  of  the  Americans  in  California,  Xew 
Mexico,  and  Colorado,  and  of  the  iMormons  in  Utah,  it 
has  been  practiced  by  them  with  tho  most  satisfactory  re- 
sults. At  first  they  adopted  it  from  what  seemed  to  them 
a  necessity,  as  a  substitute,  and  a  poor  one  at  that^  for 
rain  ;  but  experience  has  taught  them  better  and  demonstra- 
ted to  them  that  rain  is  no  substitute  for  irrigation.  They 
find,  as  in  the  case  of  the  irrigated  valleys  of  China,  of  tho 
valleys  of  tho  Ganges  and  of  the  Xile,  that  irrigated  lands 
never  grow  old  and  become  worn  out.  Tho  plant  food 
dissolved  and  held  in  suspension  by  the  water,  perjietually 
renews  the  soil  keeping  it  fresh  and  vigorous.  Nor  in 
California,  Utah  and  Colorado  is  this  solution  of  the  prol>- 
lem  demonstrated,  but  also  in  the  Eastern  States.  There 
are  meadows  in  the  valley  of  the  Connecticut  which  are 
irrigated  from  that  river,  which  have  not  had  a  particle  of 
manure  applied  to  them  for  twenty  years,  j-et  which  an- 
nually yield  four  tons  of  hay  to  the  acre,  which  is  more 
than  double  the  quantity  that  can  be  produced  on  land 
not  irrigable  with  all  the  artificial  manure  that  can  be  put 
on  it. 

Tho  products  of  plant  life  are  vegetable  tissue,  starch, 
gum,  mucus,  sugar,  etc.  All  these  are  composed  princi- 
pally of  three  elements;  namely.  Hydrogen  oxj'gen,  and 
carbon.  Tho  other  elements  arc  silica,  alumina,  lime, 
soda,  potash,  etc.  Hydrogen  and  oxygen  are  principally 
supplied  by  the  roots,  they  being  the  constituent  elements 
of  water,  llumus  (that  is,  decayed  vegetable  and  animal 
matter,)  consists  largely  of  carbon,  and  in  combination 
with  nitroiren  forms  ammonia.  Therefore  carbon  is  also 
taken  up  largely  from  the  soil  by  the  roots.  But  tho 
leaves  have  also  the  faculty  of  taking  in  carbon  from  the 
;atmosphero  by  decomposing  carbonic  acid.  It  is  only  the 
mineral  substances  that  are  exclusively  taken  up  from  tho 


168      OVER  THE  PLAINS  AND  ON  THE  MOUNTAINS. 

soil ;  and  their  quantity  can  be  ascertained  by  burning  any- 
vegetable  matter,  and  weighing  the  ashes.  It  will  ho 
found  that  the}''  are  but  a  small  traction  of  the  whole 
weight  of  the  body  consumed;  yet  they  form,  (if  the  ex- 
pression is  permissible,)  the  skeleton  of  the  plant,  in  the 
mysterious  operations  of  plant  life  by  which  are  elaborated, 
the  products  of  vegetation,  they  also  perform  important 
functions  in  breaking  up  old  and  forming  new  combina- 
tions. Each  of  the  mineral  salts,  has  a  distinct  function  y 
hence  the  necessity  of  its  presence  in  the  soil  when  its 
services  are  demanded. 

It  has  been  ascertained  by  observation  that  on  an  aver- 
age, crops  require  not  less  than  seventeen  inches  of  rain- 
fall during  the  season  of  growth.  If  less  than  that  fall?^, 
they  suft'er  from  drought  and  fail  in  proportion  to  the  de- 
ficiency. But  rains  generally  fall  faster  than  the  soil  can 
absorb  the  water:  consequently  much  water  is  wasted  by 
flowing  off  to  brooks  and  creeks.  Not  only  wasted,  but 
worse;  the  water  takes  along  with  it  a  large  portion  of 
soil  containing  its  richest  ingredients.  A  heavy  rain 
therefore  often  has  a  more  impoverishing  effect  on  the  soil 
than  two  crops. 

In  irrigating  we  will  suppose  that  fifteen  inches  of  water 
is  sufficient  to  meet  the  demand  of  the  crop.  This  will 
give  407,271  gallons  of  water  to  the  acre.  The  time  that 
the  water  is  used  for  irrigation,  is  the  time  of  floods  from 
the  melting  snow.  It  is  therefore  the  time  that  they  are 
the  richest  in  mineral,  vegetable  and  animal  matter.  I 
was  unable  to  obtain  any  analyses  of  waters  made  at  any 
time,  much  less  at  particular  seasons,  for  the  ])urposc  of 
ascertaining  the  amount  of  plant  food  they  hold  in  sus- 
pension; consequently  cannot  state  with  precision  the 
amount  held  in  solution.  But  as  the  water  used  in  irriga- 
tion is  utilized  when  richest  in  these  ingredients,  I  will 
assume  that  each  gallon  contains  twenty  grains.  This- 
gives  8.145.420  grains  or  more  than  1,162  pounds  of  the 
<iuintessence  of  manure,  which  the  water  will  convey  to,. 


OVER   THE  PLAINS  AND  ON  THE  MOUNTAINS.  ICO 

and  deposit  in  the  soil  per  acre.  This  is  more  than  the 
most  exhauBtive  crop  demands  or  can  utilize. 

Scientists  have  long  sought,  but  in  vain,  for  ingredients 
Avhose  combination  should  constitute  a  perfect  manure^ 
not  only  to  replace  deficient  elements  in  the  soil,  but  to 
keep  it  in  perennial  fertilitj'.  They  have  failed  to  find 
them,  and  consequently  to  solve  the  problem,  and  ever 
must  fail,  until  they  can  tell,  not  only  the  quantity  of  a 
missing  factor,  but  the  exponents  of  each  factor  that  enters 
into  the  solution. 

Nature  who  is  wiser  than  Man,  but  who  offers  to  him 
her  wisdom  as  a  free  gift,  has  solved  this  problem  com- 
pletely for  him,  and  in  the  simplest  manner.  She  has 
piled  up  on  every  continent  her  cloud  constraining  moun- 
tains, compelling  them  to  leave  on  their  summits  their 
stores  of  rain  and  sleet  and  snow.  These  mountains  from 
their  composition  are  the  radiant  points  whence  the  ele- 
ments of  plant  life  take  their  departure,  and  spread  them- 
selves over  the  continents.  They  are  therefore  Nature'* 
compost  heaps  from  which  she  fertilizes  the  Earth. 


170  OVK^  THE  PLAIN?;   AND  ON  TUB  MOUNTAINS. 


ciiaptp:u  XV. 

Middle  Park  is  the  gem  of  the  Ivoeky  Mountain.-*.  The 
variety,  singularity,  wildncH.s,  grandeur  and  sublimity  of 
its  scenery;  the  beauty  of  it.s  grassy  and  flower-enameled 
glades,  presenting,  as  they  do^  such  a  marked  contrast  in 
color  to  iho  sombre  appearance  of  the  evergreens  on  the 
surrounding  hills  and  mountains;  the  sheen  of  its  crystal 
and  sparkling  waters  that  thread  it  as  with  silver  bands  ; 
the  solitude  of  its  forests;  the  tranquility  of  its  landscape, 
the  fascinating  beauty  of  its  clear  and  calm  mountain 
lakes,  that  mirror-like  not  only  reflect  the  deep  blue  over- 
hanging sky,  but  the  surrounding  forests  and  ice  clad 
peaks,  and  the  enjoyment  ol  all  these  enhanced  by  being 
seen  through  an  atmosphere  so  translucent  as  ap])arently 
to  annihilate  distance;  will  forever  make  Jfiddle  Pai'k  at- 
tractive to  all  lovers  of  Nature.  AVliilo  the  purity  of  its 
air,  the  coolness,  salubrity  and  invigorating  influence  of 
its  climate,  will  make  it  the  Mecca  of  Invalids  seeking  the 
boon  of  renewed  vigor  and  restored  health,  or  when  these 
are  out  of  the  question,  tcruporary  amelioration  and  relief 
from  ph^-sical  infirmities.  It  is  as  yet,  only  the  central 
point  of  attraction  to  C'oloradians,  bent  on  enjoying  a  few 
weeks  of  r(;creation  and  pleasure  in  Summer.  But  to  the 
outside  world,  it  is  almost  as  complete  a  terra  incognita  as 
though  it  were  in  tho  moon.  During  a  portion  of  the 
year  it  is  still  the  liuntingground  ofthe  Utes,  who  yet  claim 
it,  for  the  Indian  title  has  not  been  extinguished;  and 
they  look  with  no  friendly  eye  upon  the  encroachments 
of  ihc  palefaiMMi  ranchemen,  graduall}-  extending  down 
ihe  valleys  ofthe  J>lue  and  (Jrand. 

Tho  valley  ofthe  Blue  is  separated  from  that  of  Grand 


OVER  THE  PLAINS    AND  ON  THE  MOUNTAINS.  171 

River  by  a  moimtain  cliiiin  ninniiiL;  throngh  Iho  Park, 
from  Gray's  Peak  in  a  northwest  directicjn,  and  Icrmin- 
-alinir  near  the  junction  ol'the  two  rivei-s.  The  Blue  river 
valley  is,  therefore  shaped  like  a  ham,  Avith  the  hock  end 
resting  on  (irand  River.  In  tlie  tipper  part  of  it,  is  the 
town  of  Breekenridge,  the  county  seat  of  Summit  county. 
This  portion  of  the  valley  is  very  rich  in  the  precious 
metals.  All  the  mountain  streams  are  auriferous,  and  the 
most  extensive  pZac^'rs  in  the  Territory  are  here.  Gold 
Pun,  (Jah-na,  American,  (it-orgia,  irunibug,  French,  Gib- 
son, Gorksci-ew,  Negro,  Illinois,  Iloosier,  etc.,  gulches,  and 
Stilson's  and  Delaware  Hats,  are  all  fiimous  placers,  and 
yield  now  about  SoOO.OOO  annually,  and  are  said  to  be 
oai)able  of  yielding  double  that  annually  a  long  and  in- 
definite time  to  come.  The  mountains  are  lull  of  gold 
lodes  but  are  iiot  worked,  and  will  not  be  whilst  placer 
mining  continues  to  yield  so  richly  as  now  In  fact 
;)iar<T  miners  are  opposed  to  lode  mining.  On  the  head 
.streams  of  .Snake  Piver,  a  tributary  of  the  Blue  are,  two 
mining  districts,  ]\tontezuma  and  Peru.  'I'lie  latter  is  at 
the  south  base  of  Cray's  Peak.  ]\Iontezunui  is  a  few  miles 
further  southwest,  at  the  foot  of  (i lazier  ^Mountain,  on  a 
branch  of  the  Snake.  It  is  about  1.")  miles  southwest,  as 
the  crow  Hies,  fi-oui  Georgetown,  but  by  the  wagon  road 
through  the  chain,  near  the  base  of  (iray's  Peak,  it  is  20 
or  more.  From  Soutli  Park,  these  districts  are  reached 
through  Tarryall  Pass.  .Montezuma  lias  a  silver  reduc- 
tion works;  and  at  St.  John's,  a  half  a  mile  distant,  the 
Boston  Mining  Association  have  reduction  works,  saw- 
mill, etc.  The  girdle  of  snow  chid  mountainsthat  environ 
JMiddle  Park,  is  the  culminating  point  of  the  Rocky  Moun- 
tain chain.  The  Snowy  Range,  as  this  towering  moun- 
tain escarpment  is  appropriately  called,  since  it  rises  from 
S,000  to  5,000  leet  above  the  line  of  perpetual  snow,  liere 
flexes  or  doubles  upon  itself  ( 'ommencing  on  the  north 
wall  of  Grand  River  Canyon,  it  runs  first  north  some 
Ihirtj  miles,  thence  a  few  point^i  south  of  east,  to   Long's 


172  OVLR   THE  PLAINS  AND  OX  TIIK  MOUNTAINS. 

Peak.  Thome  south  by  way  of  James'  and  Gray's  Peaks'- 
to  a  point  some  fifteen  miles  south  of  the  hitter;  thcnco 
southwest  to  Mount  Lincohi ;  theneo  west  some  25  miles  j. 
ami  thence  north  to  the  south  wall  of  GJrand  River  can- 
yon. Its  flexure  thus  forms  a  huge  fold  like  that  of  a. 
i^iixantic  anaconda.  AVithin  this  fold  lies  Middle  Park^ 
isome  eighty  miles  long  from  north  to  south,  and  forty 
wide  from  east  to  west.  It  belongs  to  the  Pacific  side  of 
the  Continent,  since  its  Avatcrs  flow  west,  and  its  springs 
are  far  the  most  distant  tributaries  of  that  ocean.  Here 
at  the  culminating  point  of  the  American  continent,  at- 
the  a])ex  and  most  easternly  trend  of  the  Great  Cordil- 
leras, and  amidst  eternal  snow  and  ice,  they  commence 
their  long  journey  to  the  sea.  At  first  taking  their  course- 
due  west,  they  flow  for  hundreds  of  miles  through  the 
cra'^'gicst,  roughest  and  wildest  mountain  district  in  the 
world.  Then  they  enter  the  four  hundred  mile  canyon 
of  the  Colorado  of  the  West,  the  chasm  of  which  is  from 
.S.OOO  to  5,000  feet  deep.  Emerging  thence,  they  hold  on 
their  way  through  sandy  deserts  for  hundreds  of  miles, 
more,  till  they  reach  the  Gulf  of  California;  and  finally 
reach  the  Pacific  Ocean,  near  Mazatlan,  in  Mexico,  south 
of  the  Tropic  of  Cancer. 

The  elevation  of  the  Park  above  the  sea,  is  from  7,000 
to  8,000  feet.  The  wall  of  porphyritic  rocks  constituting 
the  Snowy  Jlange,  rises  from  3,000  to  5,000  feet  aljove  the 
Park;  and  huge  tower  like  peaks  from  3,000  to  5,000  feet 
above  this  snowy  wall.  The  highest  of  these  peaks  is- 
Mount  Lincoln,  on  the  south.  The  next  in  altitude  is 
Long's  Peak,  on  the  northeast,  14,350  feet  high.  Inter- 
mediate between  these  two,  l)Oth  in  height  and  position,. 
are  Gray's  and  James'  I'caks.  L(mg's  Peak  and  the 
rano-c  adjacent  to  it,  as  seen  fi*om  Middle  Park,  have  a 
riiirgc'd,  shai'ydy  cockscombcd,  or  deepl}'  serrated  a])pcar- 
ance,  characteristic  of  all  mountain  chains  composed  of 
eruptive  roeks. 

The  north  branch  of  the  Grand,  heads  in  the  angle  of 


OVER  THE  PLAINS   AND  ON  THE  MOUNTAINS.  173 

the  Snowy  Iiangc  at  the  southwest  base  of  Long's  Peak; 
and  the  south  branch  near  the  summit  of  Berthoud's  Pass, 
north  of  Cray's  Peak.  They  unite  near  the  centre  of  the 
-eastern-half  of  the  Park,  The  course  of  the  river  is 
nearly  due  west;  and  it  receives  the  Blue  just  before  it 
■enters  the  canyon  by  which  it  makes  its  exit  through  the 
Avail  of  the  western  mountain.  Blue  liiver  heads  near  the 
base  of  Mount  Lincoln,  and  flows  nearly  due  north  for 
fifty  miles  along  the  base  of  Blue  Eivcr  Mountains  till  it 
meets  Grand  River.  Near  its  mouth  it  is  about  00  yards 
.and  Grand  River  about  160  3'ards  wide.  Both  rivers  have 
strong  and  swift  currents. 

The  surface  of  the  park  is  generally  rough  and  hilh*; 
even  rising  to  mountains  of  1,200  and  1,500  feet  in  altitude 
on  that  range  jutting  out  from  Gray's  Peak  to  the  junction 
of  the  two  rivers.  In  fact  it  is  composed  of  a  series  of 
parks.  Both  Grand  and  Blue  rivers  have  many  broad 
savannas  hedged  round  by  mountains;  and  on  all  their 
affluents  there  are  glades  of  greater  or  loss  extent  enclosed 
by  precipitous  hills  and  mountain  j^eaks.  The  higher 
hills,  as  well  as  the  base  of  the  Snowy  Range  up  to  the 
"timber  line,"  are  heavily  covered  with  pine,  spruce  and 
other  evergreens,  besides  quaking-asj^  (Po2ndus  tremu- 
loides).  Some  of  tlic  lower  portions  are  covered  with  a 
dense  growth  of  sage  brush,  a  tough  aromatic  plant  which 
attains  a  hight  of  from  two  to  three  feet,  and  is  not 
found  anywhere  east  of  the  Snowy  Range.  Grasses,  such 
as  wild  timothy  (^Pldeum  ^.(pmKm),  two  species  of  blue- 
grass,  (^Toa  serotina  and  P.  Aiidina),  red  top,  wild  oats  and 
the  lucious  buffalo  grass  are  so  abundant  and  luxuriant 
that  neither  horses  nor  cattle  require  any  other  food  sum- 
mer or  winter.  Elk,  black-tail  deer  and  mountain  sheep 
resort  to  this  Park  during  the  winter,  seeking  its  rich 
pastures  and  on  account  of  its  comparatively  mild  climate 
and  greater  exemption  from  snows  than  the  surrounding 
mountains.  Though  the  snow  falls  to  the  enormous  depth 
•  of  from  12  to  15  feet  in  a  season;  yet  it  is  a  well  observed 


174  OVER    THE  PLAINS    AND  UN  THE  MOUNTAINS. 

fact  that  the  Pacific  Slope,  howevex*  remote  from  the  oeean^ 
hjw  a  milder  climate  than  on  the  Atlantic  or  Eastern 
Slope.  Ill  svimmcr  the  climate  is  cool,  2")lea.sant  and  ex- 
tremely exhileralin^.  Thou<j!;h  scarcely  a  week  passes 
without  somelVost;  yet,  strange  as  it  may  seem,  flowere 
bloom  throughout  the  season,  and  straw-berries  ripen  oven 
to  the  hight  of  11,000  icet  above  the  sea,  and  in  close  prox- 
imity to  the  eternal  snows. 

Gold  and  silver  have  not  yet  been  found  in  paying  quan- 
tities, except  (m  the  Blue  as  already  stated;  consequently 
but  little  has  been  done  towards  the  settlement  of  tho 
northern  ]iortion  of  the  Park.  The  latest  ])rospecting,. 
however,  indicates  the  jjresence  of  the  precious  metals  in 
rich  and  j)aying  quantities  on  the  sources  of  Grand  Eiver,. 
Quite  a  number  of  cattle  Tranches  however  already  exist 
on  the  Grand  and  its  tributaries,  and  are  extending  down 
the  valley  of  the  I^luo  towards  the  junction.  "Wheat  has 
not  been  tried,  but  oats,  potatoes,  turnips  and  cabbage 
•find  here  a  congenial  climate  and  yield  enormous  crops.. 
When  the  narrow  guage  railroads  now  projected  from 
botli  Denver  and  Boulder  to  Salt  Lake  arc  completed,  * 
this  Park  will  become  one  of  the  most  desirable  portions 
of  the  territory,  not  only  for  grazing  purposes,  but  for  the 
manufacturing  of  lumber  from  its  large  and  heavy  forests 
of  pine  and  si)ruce. 

Xear  the  head  of  (I rand  Uiver,  amongst  the  side  moun- 
tains of  the  Snowy  Pangc  lies  Grand  Lake,  about  two 
miles  long,  and  of  unknown  dejith,  since  a  sounding  line 
500  feet  in  length  has  failed  to  reach  bottom.  The  moun- 
tains forming  its  sides  rise  abruptly  from  the  waters'  edge; 
Grand  Jiivcr  forming  both  its  outlet  and  inlet.  Up 
through  the  canyon  through  wichtho  river  comes  tumbling 
down,  arc  several   smaller  lakes;  and  still   higher  up  is 

*Thc  one  from  Donvor,  to  run  by  way  of  Soutli  I'urk  tlirouf^li 
Iloosicr  I'li's  and  down  llio  valley  of  tho  Blue;  and  tho  ono  from  Boul- 
der, throuf^h  the  (Snowy  Ivan'^e  and  down  the  valley  of  the  Gnmd, 
thence  by  the  Grand  Uiver  Canyon  through  tho  middle  ba.sin  of  the. 
Colorado  of  tljo  West  into  Salt  haka  Valley. 


OVER  THK  PL.\IN«    AND  ON  THK  MOUNTAINS.  175 

Eetcs'  Park,  a  miniature  glado  on  the  verge  of  the  "tim- 
ber lino"  where  ^[ountain  Jim  haw  a  cattle  ranchc. 

The  .streams  and  lakes  are  filled  with  liish,  mostly  trout. 
Doer,  elk,  mountain  sheej),  haroH  and  grouse  arc  plenty  in 
the  Park,  and  the  coyote  and  grizzly  bear  in  the  foroetfl 
and  mountains.  "VVhcn  Fremont  was  hero  in  1844  the 
Park  was  filled  with  buffalo,  but  they  have  all  left  these 
parts  now.  Beaver  arc  also  plenty  on  all  the  streams  and 
mountain  brooks.  On  one  sti'eam  there  are  at  lea«t  fifty 
dams  within  a  mile,  and  a  i-egular  Venice-like  beaver 
city. 

There  are  many  coal  beds  in  Middle  ]*ark;  in  fact  tho 
only  true  carboniferous  coal  in  Coloi*ado  is  found  here; 
which  will  be  of  immense  value  should  the  mineral  de- 
posites  prove  as  rich  as  it  is  now  anticipated  they  will. 
Fossil  wood  is  found  in  all  tho  tertiary  deposites  which 
cover  four-fifths  of  the  Park.  Tho  petrifiictions  of  fossil 
palm  trees  arc  recognized  by  their  endogenous  structure, 
but  the  most  of  tho  fossil  trees  were  exogens.  A  species 
of  magnolia  has  been  found  and  identified  as  belonging  to 
a  sub-tropical  species. 

South  Africa  has  the  largest  and  richest  diamond  fields 
in  the  world.  [Middle  Park  has  no  diamonds,  but  it  has  the 
richest  knowji  deposites  of  the  inferior  precious  stones. 
There  are  thousands  of  acres  of  agate  patches,  and  fields 
of  jasper,  amethyst,  opals,  emeralds,  chalcedony  and  silici- 
fio<l  wood;  in  fact  there  arc  enough  of  these  to  supply  tho 
world  for  ages.  Many  of  the  agates  arc  wdiat  aro  popu. 
larly  known  as  moss  agates,  from  having  those  dendritic 
forms  resembling  petrified  moss.  These  forms  however 
originate,  as  lias  already  been  stated,  from  crystallization 
of  manganese  under  the  reaction  <jf  oxide  of  iron. 

The  epoch  in  which  the  great  changes  of  climate  were 
effected,  and  of  the  upheaval  of  this  niesa  to  its  ])roscnt 
altitude,  was  one  when  terrible  energy  manifested  itself 
on  a  tremendous  scale.  It  has  forever  left  tho  impress  of 
its  character  on  the  turreted  battlements  of  peaks  above 


170      OVER  THE  PLAINS  AND  ON  THE  MOUNTAINS. 

peaks,  inountaiiis  on  mountains  and  hills  on  hills,  and  on 
the  deeply  rifted  canyon  walls  of  its  flowing  streams. 
The  whole  topogra]>hy  of  the  Park  is  an  almost  unvaried 
scries  of  i!^iKH)us  rocks  forming  immense  cones  and  dikes 
of  basalt  and  lava. 

On  the  banks  of  Grand  Eiver  near  the  centre  of  the 
Park,  arc  yet  numerous  hot  sulphur  springs.  Mr.  Charles 
Dabney,  of  Boulder,  gave  me  a  piece  of  sulphur  foam, 
which  he  gathered  from  the  basin  of  one  of  these  springs. 
It  weighs  about  twelve  ounces.  lie  described  the  spring 
as  a  stream  of  hot  water  of  the  capacity  of  twenty-five 
■"miner's  inches,"  issuing  from  a  fissure  in  an  over-hanging 
rock.  The  orifice  is  about  fifteen  feet  above  the  basin  into 
which  the  water  pours.  The  whole  surface  of  the  basin  is 
covered  with  this  incrusted  sulphur  foam  to  the  depth  of 
four  and  five  inches.  Immediately  below  the  hot  spring 
there  is  Grand  Canyon,  three  miles  long,  where  the  river 
cuts  its  way  through  an  upheaved  ridge  of  massive  felds- 
pathic  granite  between  walls  from  1,200  to  1,500  feet 
high. 

On  Troublesome  Creek  there  are  monumental  stonea 
similar  to  those  on  the  Divide,  east  of  Pike's  Peak.  They 
are  the  remains  of  sandstone  that  have  otherwise  suc- 
cumbed to  the  erosions  of  the  elements  operating  upon 
them  for  unknown  thousands  of  years.  They  are  said  to 
be  extremely  picturesque,  fantastic  and  weird,  surpassing 
even  those  on  Monumental  Creek  flowing  from  the  Di- 
vide south  of  Denver  into  the  Arkansas. 

Xear  Troublesome  Creek  is  a  rectangular  mural  hill,  or 
rather  mass  of  light  colored  rock  two  hundred  feet  high. 
The  sides  are  nearly  perpendicular,  and  have  been  so 
fashioned  by  the  erosions  of  the  elements  as  to  resemble  a 
}mge  castle.  There  are  towers,  battlements,  abutments 
and  gateways,  so  that  when  seen  by  moonlight  or  in  the 
gray  dawn  of  morning  the  effect  is  most  charming  and 
impressive,  and  the  illusion  is  complete  of  an  old  massive 
castle,  such  as  are  seen  upon  the  lihine. 


OVER   THE  PL.\IN8  AND  ON  THE  MOUNTAINH  1T7 

There  are  Hcveral  paHwea  over  the  Snowy  Range  into 
the  Park.  Hoosier  Pasa  at  the  Houreo  of  the  Eluc,  near 
the  base  of  Mount  Lincoln,  h'ading  into  Routli  Park,  was 
■eRtiniated  by  Fremont,  who  paHsod  over  it  in  July,  1844, 
on  liis  return  from  California,  to  be  11,200  above  the  Bca. 
Ilis  CHtimatc  waH  deduced  from  the  boiling  point  of  water, 
having  broken  his  barometer  late  in  the  previous  year  on 
the  Columbia.  Berthoud's  PaHH,  about  five  miles  north  of 
Gray'H  Peak,  at  the  head  springs  of  Clear  Creek,  as  deter- 
mined by  Prof.  Ilayden,  in  18(59,  is  11,816  feet  above  the 
ocean  level.  Boulder  Pas^s,  80me  t-en  miles  further  north, 
at  the  head  of  the  South  Boulder,  also  affords  easy  acccHs 
to  the  Park.  I  cannot  ascertain  that  its  altitude  has  ever 
been  determined.  Its  altitude  probably  does  not  vary 
much  from  that  of  Berthoud's.  Jt  is  rather  singular  that 
*on  the  summit  of  all  these  passes,  the  springs  which  send 
their  waters  in'opposite  directions  and  to  different  ocwvns, 
arc  in  close  proximity,  only  a  few  feet,  or  at  most,  a  few 
yards,  apart.  From  Georgetown,  there  is  a  good  wagon 
road  over  the  Bangc  at  the  south  base  of  Gray's  Peak  to 
the  silver  mines  on  the  head  waters  of  the  Blue,  and  from 
the  same  place,  through  Berthoud's  l*agH,  the  head  waten* 
of  the  Grand  are  reached. 

There  are  four  of  these  parks  in  Colorado;  namely, 
Noi'th,  Middle,  South  and  San  Luis.  To  which  might, 
with  ])ropriety,  be  added  a  fifth;  namely,  the  upj^er  basin 
■of  the  Arkansas,  which  has  all  the  requisites  of  a  park  aa 
the  word  is  liere  understood.  Of  iS'orth  Park,  in  which 
the  North  Fork  of  the  Platte  rises,  ii  is  not  necessary  to 
><peak.  It  is  yet  beyond  the  pale  of  civilization  and  not 
visited  by  tourists.  The  easy  accessibility  from  the  Plains 
has  secured  to  South  Park  an  early  settlement,  and  makes 
it  a  lixvorite  resort  of  tourists,  though  its  sceneiy  is  said 
not  to  be  of  the  first  order.  As  it  lias  been  often  dei^crib- 
■<?,d  by  tourists  who  visite<J  it,  it  would  be  presumption  in 
jnc  to  attempt  a  des<;'ription  who  have  not  se<>u  it. 

12 


i78 


OVKR    TMK  PLAINS  AM)  ON'  THE  MOUNTAINS. 


The  fbllowiiii^  art!  the  istimated  ureas  of  ihe  three 
northernmost  Parks: 

ACRK8- 

}\on\\  Park 1,600,000- 

Middle  Park I,'.t00,000 

8outh  Park 1,400,000 

West  <)1"  South  Park,  and  separated  from  it  ]>y  the 
Buffalo  Peaks,  lies- the  Upper  Basin,  or  Park  of  the  Ar- 
kansas, Avliicli  heads  at  tlie  western  base  of  Mount  Lincoln^ 
In  it  are  Oro  City,  I^ayton  and  Granite,  all  of  which  were- 
at  one  time  flourisliin*^-  mining  towns,  but  now  are  some- 
what dilapidated;  not  because  gold  is  not  there,  but 
because  it  takes  labor,  skill,  and  perseverence  to  ol)tain  it- 
i'rosperity,  howevei',  must  sooner  or  later  return  to  them,^ 
because  not  only  are  iho  placers  rich,  but  tho  lodes  in  the 
mountains  give  bright  ]»romise  of  the  future  when  capital,, 
skill  and  science  will  be  directed  to  their  development. 

J>;ivton,  situated  on  Twin  Lakes,  is  the  most  charming 
village  in  the  mountains.  Tho  Twin  Lakes  are  the  larg- 
est lakes  in  Colorado,  and  are  unsurpassed  for  beauty  in 
the  world.  They  were  the  scene  of  a  sad  accident  while 
we  were  in  the  mountains.  Young  Copp,  of  St.  Louis, 
whom  a  few  days  before  ^v^'  luid  seen  at  Denver,  full  of 
life,  sjiii'iis  and  exj^ectation,  was  drowned  hero  ])y  the  up- 
pctting  of  a  boat. 

Chapters  eould  be  written  in  describing  this  lovely, 
charming,  jticturestpje  and  delightful  valley,  and  its  match- 
le^fis  seenery.  without  exhausting  the  subjeet.  Every  tour- 
ist should  make  it  a  point  to  visit  it,  for  no  one  ever  re- 
grets having  gone  there. 

South  of  the  Upper  Basin  of  the  Arkansas,  and  bej^ond 
a  T^nge  of  snowy  peaks,  lies  San  Luis  Park,  tlie  most 
Bouthern,  the  largest  and  tlie  least  elevated  of  the  series. 
Tt  contains  about  12,000,000  acres  of  arable  land,  and  its 
altitude  above  tlie  level  of  the  sea  is  about  6,r)00  feet.  It 
is  generally  said  that  San  Luis  Park  lies   in   the  basin   of 


OVER  THE  PLAINS  ASl)   ON  THK  MOLNTAIXS.      179 

the  Eio  Grande  del  Xorte,  though  a  portion  of  it  reuUy  is 
a  continental  basin.  It  is  separated  from  the  Taos  Val- 
ley by  tho  Sierra  Jilanca  (White  Mountains)  running  on 
its  /southern  border  nearly  due  east  and  ■west.  They  are 
the  grandest,  most  imposing  and  picturesque  range  in 
Southern  Colorado.  Southeast  of  the  Park,  in  the  sec- 
ond range  of  mountains,  the  Spanish  Peaks  raise  their  tow- 
ering heads  above  the  clouds.  The  mountains  that  -wall 
in  San  Luis  I*ark  on  the  east,  from  the  Sierra  131anca 
north  to  Poncho  Pass,  are  of  eruptive  rocks,  and  grand  in 
aspect  and  vast  in  proportions.  The  north  wall  is  of 
metamorphic  rocks  and  rises  above  the  line  of  perpetual 
Bnow.  To  the  west  are  the  Sierra  San  Juan  (pronounce<l 
San  Whawn).  The  Kio  Grande  rises  in  Los  Animas  (the 
Spirits' )  Park,  flows  at  first  cast  to  centre  of  San  Luis 
Park,  ajid  then  turns  south.  The  northern  ])ortion,  a  con- 
tinental basin,  is  San  LuJs  Pai-k  proper.  This  northern 
portion  is  about  60  miles  long  and  1.')  to  20  miles  wide. 
In  the  centi-e  of  it  is  Saguache  Lake  twenty-four  miles 
long  and  ten  ^\■'uU',  at  its  widest  part.  It  loT>ks  like  a  vast 
thicket  of  "  grease  wood,  "  (Sarrobatus  vermicularis).  It 
has  no  outlet.  It  seems  to  be  a  vast  swamp  or  l»og,  an.d 
has  .some  15  oi"  10  large  streams  flowing  into  it.  It  is 
siiid  that  in  the  interior  of  this  bog,  small  lakes  exist,  the 
largest  of  which  is  three  miles  in  length.  The  waters  of 
these  lakes,  and  of  the  bog  itself,  are  said  to  have  an  ebb 
and  flow  with  the  regularity  of  the  tide.  I  will  not  vouch 
for  the  truth  of  this,  but  it  comes  t(.i  me  from  so.  many 
credible  sources  as  to  entitle  it  to  mention  here.  If  it  is 
true,  it  is  a  remarkable  ]»henomenon,  worthy  of  scientific 
investigation.  As  its  elevation  is  so  great  above  the  level 
of  the  sea,  it  cannot  lie  a  tidal  Avave,  vet  there  mxist  be  a 
uniform  jdiysical  cause  in  o])eration  to  produce  it.  As- 
suming it  to  be  true,  I  would  suggest  atmospheric  pres- 
sure as  the  jirobable  cause  of  it.  From  the  nature  of  the 
facts  existing  here,  we  can  very  readily  infer  the  laws  op- 
erating to  ]iroduce  the  phenomenon   in    question.      The 


180  OVKR    TUE  PU\TNS  AND  ON  THE  MOUNTAINS      . 

facts  Jiiv,  firioen  or  sixteen  l:irgo,  bcsidoH  many  Bmoll 
stroanis,  disch:iri;;o  thoir  ■\v:itors  into  this  boij,  yet  liko  tiio 
Hoii  it  dot'H  not  become  full.  The  water  therefore  musrt 
sink,  sinen  its  volume  is  too  great  to  disappear  1)y  evapo- 
ration. Now  supposing  there  is  an  air  tight  cavity,  or  a 
series  of  air  tight  cavities  filled  with  air  connected  with 
the  cavity  by  which  the  water  slowly  discharges,  and  theso 
air  cavities  lower  than  the  surface  of  the  lake;  then  what 
would  be  the  effect  of  atmospheric  pressure  in  such  qhhq  ? 
From  well  established  physical  laws,  there  would  be  low.^ 
water  in  the  hike  under  a  high  barometer,  and  high  Avater 
UJKler  a  low  barometer.  I  use  a  fountaih  inkstand,  and 
ean  always  t''ll  whether  the  barometer  is  rising  or  falling. 
If  rising,  1  have  constiintly  to  ])ush  down  the  India  rub- 
ber air-chamber  to  keep  up  a  supply  of  ink.  But  when 
the  barometer  is  falling,  I  have  constantly  to  raise  the  air- 
ohamber  to  keep  the  ink  from  ovei'flowing.  Precisely 
the  same  thing  would  happen  to  this  Lake,  if  our  su])potji- 
tion  of  subterranean  air-chambers  be  ct)iTecl. 

Xow  as  we  know  that  there  are  two  normal  maxima  of 
atmospheric  pressure,  and  the  same  number  of  minima  in 
'a  'lay,  and  also  the  hours  of  their  uniform  occurrence, 
therefore  the  obb  and  flow  of  these  waters,  if  our  explana- 
tion be  correct,  must  be  synchronous  with  these  maxima 
and  minima  each  to  each.  The  major  flow,  or  highest 
water  would  therefore  be  between  3  and  5  o'clock  in  the 
afternoon,  and  the  minor  high  watt-r  between  8  and  5 
o'clock  in  the  morning.  The  nuijor  and  lowest  ebb  would 
be  at  about  10  o'clock  in  the  morning,  and  the  miner  low 
water  at  about  10  o'clock  at  night.  The  hours  oftho.se 
maxima  and  minima  would  shift  like  those  of  barometric 
pressure  with  the  altitude  of  the  sun  during  the  seasons. 
Observations  would  soon  settle  the  questions  whether 
there  are  such  ebbs  and  flows  as  reported;  and  if  bo 
whether  the  periodicity  of  the  phenomenon  corresponds 
in  ]»olnt  of  time  with  atmospheric  i>ressure,   as  shown  by 


OVER   THE  Pl^mS  AND  ON  THE  MOUNTAINS  ISl 

tho  barornotor,  uhich  it  must,  if  the  explanation  iioro 
offered  bv  the  truf^  oik-. 

What  makes  l)oth  the  laets  aixl  i'xphmation  mori; 
probable  is,  that  it  is  not  the  i>nly  instance  in  which  a 
Bimilar  ])henomenon  has  been  observed,  livery  one  must 
have  noticed,  or  if  not,  must  be  a  ])oor  oI.>s(U'ver  ofwhat  is 
poin<;  on  around  liim,  that  dried  u]i  sjjrin^-.s  in  \on}r 
droughts  just  preceding  a  change  to  rainy  weather,  often 
send  forth  large  volumes  of  wat»rr,  so  as  not  only  to  hwoII 
tho  brooks,  but  to  send  living  streams  through  "dry 
ravines.  "What  is  the  explanation  of  this  iiict  ?  Sini])ly 
that  since  every  rainstorm  is  jin'ceded  by  a  low  baronie- 
ter,  therefore  the  air  contained  in  closed  cavities  of  rocks, 
wlion  the  external  pressure  of  the  atmosphere  is  i-emoved, 
expands,  dis])laees  and  drives  out  a  volume  of  water 
equal  to  its  own  increase  of  volume  by  expansion. 

The  streams  falling  into  tliis  lake,  are  pei-ennial,  and 
are  tilled  with  mountain  trout;  and  the  pasturage  in  their 
vallev«  is  so  rifh  that  the  Mexicans  call  them  ''loss  vegas,  " 
tho  meadows. 

Altitude,  latitude  and  moreover  being  surrounded  and 
hemmed  in  on  all  sides  by  lot\y  mountains,  jointly  have  a 
modifving  otTect  upon  the  climate  of  San  Luis  Park.  It 
JH  exhilarating  and  bracing,  yet  Vnild  and  e<i;iablc.  No 
extremes  of  either  heat  or  cold  are  experienced  the  3-ear 
round.  All  the  cereals,  excepting  corn,  yield  abundant 
harvests;  and  as  a  stock-raising  country,  it  is  not  sur- 
passed in  the  world. 

It  is  a  singular  fact  that  on  the  riains,  near  the  .Moun- 
tains at  La  Porte  and  Boulder,  though  one  ami  a  half  to 
two  degrees  farther  north,  and  nearly  (^f  the  same  eleva- 
tion, the  wheat  h.arvest  is  from  live  to  six  weeks  earlier 
than  in  San  Luis  Park.  Prof.  ILayden,  in  1809,  found 
them  in  the  midst  of  harvest  at  Boulder  on  August  oth, 
while  on  the  21st  of  September  they  had  not  yet  finished 
it  in  San  Luis  Park.  Above  Santa  P\>  and  in  the  'J'aos 
Valley,  though  lower  than   Boulder,  he.  found,   the  same 


1*^3  OVKK    THE  PLAINS  AND  ON  TUE  MOUNTAINS. 

vcai-.  tho  Imrvost  fully  four  xs'ooks  later.  Hero  is  a  prob-  * 
Kmu  l\»r  j)hysicists  to  solvo,  from  as  yet  unknown  factorH. 
Saji  Ijuis  Park  contains  alxmt  12,000,000  acres  of  arable 
lan<l.  My  early  an<l  eHtoeined  friend,  Ex-Crovernor  (rilpin, 
owns,  or  dill  own,  a  little  over  one-sixth  of  it,  or  ahout 
2,2.")0,000  acres,  ac(|uii'ed  l>y  |iurchasin<;  Spanish  and  Mex- 
ican concession^.  Uein;-  down  at  his  residence  in  the 
Park,  whither  I  <lid  nol  ^o,  I  did  not  sec  liini  Avhile  in 
t'olorailo.  Humor  said,  ciiid  it  is  so  ])iiblished  in  the* 
Colorndo  (iazeiU'iT.  of  ISTl)  tlial  he  had  disposed  of  a  ])art 
of  his  inti'iesi  to  some  Kni^lish  capitalists,  for  §2,500,000. 
He  Avas  then  eiii:;a>i;ed  in  settlini;'  colonists  on  his  estate, 
hut  I  lea'rned  notliinix  of  tln^  ])rincij)Ics  enihodied  in  his 
colonial  schenu'. 

While  tlieso  paL^es  wivc  .^oino-  ijiroii^h  the  j)ress,  I  met 
him  on  his  wa\'  lo  ihe  !"!asteru  I'ilifs.  I  learned  from  him 
that  the  nai'row  i;-aui;-e  i-ailroad  huildinL';  from  Denver  to 
Santa  Fe,  and  aln-ady  coniijli-ted  hcyond  the  mouth  of  tlie 
canvon  of  the  Arlcansas,  will  he  coinjihued  to  San  Luis 
Park  hv  Xoveinlicr.  1^72;  and  thai  ther*^  are  yet  millions 
of  acres  of  vacant  puhli<'  hmd  in  the  I'ark  subject  to  seltle- 
nient  either  )>y  homestead  ]»re-em[>lion,  or  entry,  and  that 
iherr  is  an  abundance  ot' water  foi-  irj-iii-ation.  As  I  am 
under  a  jii-omisf  to  ])ay  him  a  \  isit  when  next  I  <ro  to  Col- 
oi-ado,  I  niav  b.Tciific!'  more  specitically  dt\seribc  this 
I'ark.  In  lh<-  meanwhih'  lei  no  one  who  visits  Colorado 
with  a  view  of  sottlement  in  ai^i'icultural  ])ursuits,  esjKK'i- 
allv  stock-i-aisini;",  tail  lo  <'xaminc  the  ada])tation  and* 
<apabilitv  of  this  Park  loi-  liis  ])urposes.  ThtMv.  is  no 
lack  of  precious  metals  in  the  surroundinij;  m()untains,  but 
thev  have  as  ^'(^t  i-eccived  no  development. 

These  parks  mi-c  indentations  or  bowls  foi-ined  by  the 
uplieaval  of  i^rnoiis  matter  which  has  formed  i-ims  around 
the  enclosed,  elevated  table-lands  or  nwKdfi,  as  the  Span- 
iards say.  These  ]»latcaux  are  not  only  the  culminatinf]^ 
T)ointi>ftbe  Iiocky  Mountain  chain,  but  the  apex  of  the 
Continent.     Jlach  is  an  independent  watershed,  having  its 


OVKR    THK  PLAINS  AND  ON  TIIK  MOUNTAINS.  IS^J 

own  system  of  Mpriui^s  and  lountains  Tliey  do  ikjL  oom- 
mingle  their  collected  tribute  with  those  of  any  other,  but 
they  send  their  waters  in  opposite  directions  to  the  luur 
cardinal  points  of  the  compass  and  to  different  oceans. 

The  Indian  luime  for  these  parks  si<;niiied  ''cow-lodges" 
or  "bull-])ens"  on  account  of  the  inunense  herds  of  bulTu- 
loes  with  which  they  abounded.  The  Canadian  French 
trappers,  tlie  first  intruders  into  these  mountain  recesses, 
for  the  sann^  reason  called  them  "yvarcs-,"  which  in  Fivnch 
sii^nifies  an  iMiclosed  ]>asture.  The  buffalo  which  then 
constitutetl  the  greater  part  of  the  animals  in  these  enclosed 
pastures,  have  now  disappeared;  and  the  elk,  deer,  moun- 
tain shecj)  and  antelopes,  are  rapidly  diminishing  in  num- 
bers. Not  uianv  years  therefore  will  elapse  before  the 
name  of  park  will  be  a  misnomer.  The  name  is  also  aj)- 
plied,  all  through  the  mountains,  to  .little  openings  or 
glades  on  the  borders  of  mountain  streams,  which  is  a  to- 
tal perversion  of  the  term.  In  our  hmguage  the  term  park, 
is  exclusively  applied  to  an  enclosure  for  holding  Avild 
animals  oi'the  (thase.  When  the  butialo  roamed  here  and 
tilled  these  mountain  glades  enclosed  and  shut  in  by  moun- 
tain walls,  the  term  was  both  a])propriate  and  descriptive, 
and  we  might  add  ))oetical.  But  the  onward  march  of 
civilization,  in  this  as  in  many  other  cases,  is  sweej)ing 
into  oblivion  the  facts  that  made  names  ])ertinent,  thus 
leaving  coming  generations  to  wonder  that  there  ever 
could  have  been  such  misai)plications  of  names. 

These  park  regions  in  I'nany  resj)ects  resemble  Switzer- 
land and  the  Alps;  ami  the  resemblance  would  be  com- 
plete if  glaciers  existed  in  them.  Those  who  liave  been  to 
Italy  as  wi'll  as  to  these  mountains,  say  that  the  most  im- 
pressive view  of  the  Alps  from  the  Italian  side,  isfi-om  the 
banks  of  the  Po,  above  ^lilan,  across  the  ])lains  of  Lom- 
bardy;  and  that  the  view  of  the  llocky  Mountains  from 
the  Plains,  say  twenty  miles  east  of  Denver,  has  much 
similarity  to  it  but  is  the  more  imposing  of  the  two  Here 
you  have  in  one  view,  the  towering  masses  of  Long'-  and 


184  OVER   THE  PLAINS  AND  ON  TUB  MOUNTAIN.i. 

Pike's  Peak  a.s  termini  o^  a  eocks-combed  irrognlar  pnowy 
curUiin,  145  niilcH  long  connooting  them,  -whicli  in  lengtb 
and  m.'issivcnof'S  has  no  analoguo  any  whoro  in  tho  Alps, 
Tho  groat  Plains  stretching  up  and  lying  again>«t  tho  moun- 
tiiiri  wall,  has  also  vaster  pr()]>ortions  than  tho  plains  of 
Lonibardy  :  while  tho  immense  mountain  wall  insight,  250 
miles  in  length,  stretching  North  and  Soutli  in  tho  west- 
ern horizon,  is  a  view  without  a  parallel  along  tho  base  of 
tho  Alps. 

Tho  mount'vins  of  tho  woMtorn  rin\  of  Middle  Park^ 
Bomotimos  called  the  Blue  Kiver  Mountains,  have  no  im- 
pressed travelers  with  thoir  similarity  to  tho  Alps  as  seen 
from  Southern  Germany,  that  they  never  fail  to  recognizo 
their  resomblanco  to  tho  Jlelvetian  ^[ountiiins,  and  have 
proposed  that  name  for  tho  range. 

Those  l>owl,  or  saucer  shap«Hi  table-lands,  collect  the 
•waters  from  all  points  of  tho  compass  that  issue  from  iin- 
dornoath  tho  perpetual  snows  and  ico  of  their  mountain 
rim.  Tho  caus;<s  that  formed  these  larger  basins,  formed 
also  n>any  smaller  ones  between  lower  lulls  or  mountains. 
These  n\inor  basins  in  niuny  instances  are  reservoirs  where 
tho  water  coll(»cts,  forming  numerous  lakes  of  greater  or 
leas  extent.  Though  in  size  they  will  not  compare  with 
tho  lakes  of  Switzerland  :  vet  tho  torrents  of  ico  water  by 
which  they  are  f  <d,  dashing  through  chasms  and  over  rocky 
precipices  form  many  c.iseudos,  which  for  beauty  and  tho 
wild  seenery  surr.^unclinir  them,  arc  unsurpassed  by  the 
rtisf^adcs  of  the  Alps.  Tho  coelcs-eombed  serraturo  of  the. 
encircling  Snowy  Ring(^  is  not  surpassed  by  any  view  of 
the  Snowy  Alps. 

Before  closing  h'l  in  l.ak(*  a  brief  review  of  the  attrac- 
tions an'l  in'tucements  held  out  not  by  these  parks  alone, 
but  by  the  whole  mountain  syst<!m  of  this  ivgion,  to  those- 
Nwki ng  health,  relaxation,  or  ]d(^asure.  \V«!  take  for  gi*ant- 
<vJ,  that  th(*  enfeebled  invalid,  the  cure-worn  man  of  busi- 
n»>H.s,  th«^  overtasked  artizan,  the  enervated  student,  and  tho 
eunoiLS  pleasure  Hocker,  need  more  than  mero  relaxation. 


OVER   THE  PLAINS  AND  ON  THE  MOUNTAINS.  1S6 

and  inano  rocreation.  Thoy  want  Mf)mothin<^  to  break  uj> 
the  routine  of  thought  to  which  their  daily  pursuits  nocen- 
saril}',  in  a  measure  restrict  them  ;  and  to  open  up  now  and 
wider  channels  for  the  How  of  the  mind.  With  rela.xation 
from  their  treadmill  drudgcr3',the3'  Avant  recreation  to  elo- 
vato  their  tastes  and  sentiments,  and  tocnlari^e  their  range 
of  thought.  In  a  word  thoy  want  recreations  as  diverse  as 
their  tastes  and  as  their  mental  capacities.  Variety,  gran- 
dour  and  sublimity  of  scenery,  are  all  essential  elements 
of  rocreation  and  enjoyment,  but  they  do  not  meet  eveiy 
roquisito.  They  sufllco  to  those  of  a  romantic  turn  of  mind 
for  subjects  of  revery  and  day-dreaming  ;  and  to  the  poet 
for  inspiring  themes  for  verso.  To  all  admirers  of  Nature's 
handiwork  they  atlord  the  most  pleasurable  emotions 
and  the  highest  order  of  enjoyment.  In  other  words  they 
speak  to  the  poetic  element  which  is  tho  common  patrimo- 
ny of  the  human  race,  and  awaken  that  exaltation  of  mind 
which  is  tho  effect  of  inspiration.  But  tho  real  is  also  as 
important  and  as  irrepressible  an  element  of  human  nature 
as  tho  ideal.  Man  desires  not  alone  to  feel,  but  to  think  ; 
not  only  to  imagine,  but  he  w^ants  to  know.  Tho  loun- 
tains  of  knowledge  must  therefore  bo  as  free  and  llow  as 
<50piousl3''  as  tho  fountains  to  induce  feeling  and  inspii'a- 
tion,  or  ho  fails  in  the  attainment  of  the  highest  enjoyment 
as  an  intellectual  being. 

There  is  no  region  of  tho  globe  whore  those  requirements 
aro  more  completely  met,  than  in  these  matchless  moun- 
tains. In  juxtaposition  with  tho  wildest  and  grandest 
floonery  in  the  world,  is  every  geologic  formation,  and 
every  mineral  and  metal  known  to  science.  Here  if  any- 
where is  tho  plain  and  Icgiblo  record  of  tho  mysterious 
processes  by  which  tho  inhabitable  globe  has  been  elabor- 
^  ated.  Hero  is  a  lithological  record,  which  contains  the 
hLstory  and  describes  the  character  of  each  epoch  that  su- 
pervened in  tho  Past,  and  engraven  in  stone  aro  tho  gro- 
tosquo  and  unique  forms  of  vegetables  and  animals  that 
appeared  with,  lived  through,  and  jierished,  with  tho  epoch 


1S6  OVKR  THK  PLAINS  AND  ON  TIIK    MOUNTAINS. 

ihiit  .iC^vo  llii-m  hi  rill,  llovc  is  iin])ressotl  in  iudeliblo 
ohamctors  upon  ihe  st«'rii  fi'iiturcs  of  these  mountains  the 
omnipouMii  eni'i-i:;y  of  lh<'  Physical  Forces  as  they  mani- 
iested  themselves  in  the  earlier  history  of  the  ulobe.  What 
iin  immense  field  foi-  exploration  is  liere  o])ened.  Ge- 
ologv,  litholo<2;y,  metal lur<;y,  ]Kileontoloi^y,  meteorolo<jy, 
hotanv,  in  fiict  every  hninch  of  Physical  Science  finds  here 
<onious  stores  of  materials,  not  only  for  their  study  but 
for  their  enlarircment.  To  those  of  scicntitic  tastes,  and  to 
men  of  science,  no  ))ai-t  of  thti  <rl(>l»c  olfcrs  richer  stores, 
holds  out  stroni^er  inducements  and  affords  ii;reatei-  oppor- 
tunities for  collectinijj  specimens  for  their  ])articular  bi'a.nch- 
<?s*  nor  more. a<i;reeable  ]iastime  and  diversion  than  to  turn 
over  the  pai!;es  of  this  immen><o  and  new  V(dunic.  ;ind  study- 
3ng  the  histories  it  <Mnb<>dies- 


OVKR   THK  I'LAIXS  AND  MN'  THK  MOI.XTAINS.  IRT 


CI  lA  I  "I'M  1 1   XVI. 

All    the     pleasures   anil    mjoyini'iils    oT   Iraveliiij;^    flow 
iVoin     tho     Lcnitificatifm     of     tho    oyo.       When   boautifui, 
wonderful  and  sublinie  objcn-ts  arc  presented  to  the  eye 
tho  attributes  of  those  objects  powerfully  afTcet  the  Bensi- 
bility,  giving  rise  s])ontaneously   to  exalted  and  pleasur- 
able emotions,  that  may    carry   the  mind  to  the  liighcwt 
])itcl)  of  enthusiasm.     But   Avhile  a  view  of  numy  objects 
afford  ]>leasure  to  the  higliest  degree,  but  few  of  them  in- 
spire enthusiasm.     Then  again  we  are  differently  affected 
by  ihe  same  object  according  to  the  stand))oint  from  which 
we  regard  it.     I'^oi"  instance,  our  )»oint  of  observation  may 
be  the  to])  ol'  n  high  building,  the  point  oi'  a.  })innacle,  the 
top  of  a  tower,  or  the  summit  of  a  mountain.     The  pleas- 
urable emotions  that  arise  in  this  case,  s])ringfrom  the  ex- 
tended view  and  the   number  and  variety  oi"  the  objects 
seen.     All  of  these  objects  when  taken  singly.' may  be  in- 
<'apable   of  inspiring    any    emotion    whatever,    yet    when 
taken   in  l)y  a   single  glance,   afford    the   highest   kind   ol' 
pleasure.     It  is  the  lue/v  tliat   affects  us  i-atlier  than  the 
fonn  and    character  of  the    multijdiciiy    of  ol)jei't.s  that 
compose  it.     A   view  liowever  is  iiicajiable  of  awakening 
enthusiasm  in  its  higliest  sense.     We  generally  call  views 
beautiful,  grand,  and  even  magnificent,  but  never  sublime. 
Again,  our  standpoint  may  be  at  the  head  of  a  lane,  in  tho 
opening  of  a  row  of  tree.s,  or  Me  may  look  down  length- 
wise between  tho  two  sides  of  a  mountain  gorge,  and  we 
may  call  the  vista  beautiful  or  charming,  but  never  mai::- 
nifi«.'ent,  much  less  sublime.     Tho  cjuotions  excited  by  fine 
vi.stas,  though  highly  pleasurable,  are  not  even  of  so  ex- 


188  OVER   THE  PLAINS  AND  ON  THK  MOUNTAINS. 

altod  :i  character  a.s  thoso  arising  from  a  grand  and  mag- 
nificent view. 

Finally,  our  standpoint  may  bo,  in  front  of  a  splendid 
building,  at  the  bottom  of  Niagara,  in  the  abyss  of  a- 
mountain  chasin,  or  at  the  loot  of  a  ])rcci])ito\is,  craggy, 
flirt'  overhung  by  to]>pling  rocks,  and  crowned  b\'  moun- 
tain ])iiu'ri  ;  then  in  looking  uji,  ucare  Bmittcn  with  wonder, 
II wo  and  astonishment.  Wo  had  soon  the  same  objects  at 
a  distance;  they  then  Avore  comJ)onent  parts  of  our  views 
and  vifttlas,  and  as  such  merely  objcc^ts  that  filled  up  points 
in  tho  more  or  less  extended  Bjiacc  in  sight.  "\Vo  hardly 
regarded  even  their  forms,  much  less  their  attributes.  But 
now  AS'o  aro  regarding  them  singly.  We  tiicn  only  saw 
enough  of  them  to  perceive  they  wore  trees,  houHcs,  clitfs, 
ra.s<-ades,  preeipice.s  or  mountains,  but  wo  now  see  that 
ihey  aro  extraordinary  trees,  houses,  clilf.-t,  precipices,  etc. 
Then  wo  saAV  no  attribute;*  excejit  such  only  an  enabled  us 
to  classify  them  ;  now  we  see  nothing  but  attributes.  We 
no^y■  8ee  tliey  have  beauty,  symmetry,  harmony,  vastness, 
grancUuir  in  all  grades  up  to  the  liighest  degree  of  sublim- 
ity. These  fix  tho  gaze  and  rivet  tho  attention;  aglow 
dart.s  through  our  veins,  the  imagination  is  set  on  lire  and 
enthusiasm  is  awakened ;  and  then  if  tinder  the  influence 
of  thiMr  insj)iration  we  attem])t  to  give  utt-eranee  to  our 
feolings  we  call  tho  sirjht  beautiful,  ur:uel,  magniticent, 
aublime. 

To  meckt  fully  the  demands  of  tho  traveler  the  country 
visited  must  possess  objects  and  Hccnery  that  will  afford 
all  of  these  three  sources  of  ])leaHural)lo  emotions;  namely, 
l^mutiAd  and  eharming  vistu.<>,  grand  and  magniiieentt'icit\s, 
and  grand,  stnjjondous,  magniticent  and  sublinuj  sights. 

Of  late  years  traveling  has  degenerated  almost  ex- 
elusively  into  sight-seeing  of  tlio  lowest  order.  Our  citi- 
zens visit  the  largo  towns  and  cities  of  onr  own  and  of 
foreign  lands,  which  have  nK)re  famo  for  being  dens  of 
iniquity  and  infamy,  than  f  »r  atfording  sublime  and  iitspir- 
Ing    sights.       The    rich,   large,    munificent    and    Hi)lendid 


OVER  THE  PI^^rNS    AN1>  ON  THE  MOUNTAINS.  189 

'<'llio8  of  continental  liuropc  es))eciiilly,  HCeni  to  have 
])artW"Ular  attraction  to  those  having  iho  desire  and  the 
mcaits'to  see  the  World;  by  which  they  understand  the 
manners,  customs,  habit.s  and  vices  even  of  man.  As  for 
sublime  sights,  they  believe  they  have  seen  everything 
wortli  freeing,  when  they  have  looked  at,  although  they 
may  not  have  taste  enough  to  admire,  the  most  farnouH 
specimens  of  architecture  in  the  world. 

The  ancients  had  seven  wonders:  1st.  The  statue  of 
the  Sun,  at  lihodes;  2d.  The  Mausoleum  of  the  King  of 
Caria;  3d.  The  statue  of  Jupiter,  by  Phidias;  4th.  The 
Temple  of  Diana,  at  Ephesus;  5th.  The  walls  and  hang- 
ing gardens  of  Babylon  ;  6th.  The  Pyramids  of  Egypt; 
and,  7th.  The  Palace  of  (^'y^*^i'^»  ^''^'  younger;  these  were 
what  they  called  the  seven  woiulers  of  the  World,  and,  as 
is  seen   every  one  of  them  Avas  the  work  of  human  hands. 

It  is,  therefore,  an  ancient  idea,  that  the  great,  thegrand^ 
-the  beautiful  and  sublime,  must  be  sought  in  the  works  of 
Man.  Which  are  the  greater  and  more  sublime,  the  works 
of  Nature  or  the  works  of  Man,  is  not  even  admissible 
as  a  question;  for  it  has  been  truly  said,  "Man  made  the 
city,  but  God  made  the  country."  In  the  cities,  Man  has 
"built  St.  Pauls  and  St.  Peters,  the  Louvre,  the  Tuillicrios 
Sans  Souci,  arches,  columns  and  domes;  but  Nature  built 
Niagara,  the  A1])S  and  the  Andes,  the  cliff,  the  gorge  and 
t.he  abyssiijial  chasm.  Of  Man's  works  we  have  less  in 
this  countr)^  than  there  is  elsewliere,  but  of  Nature's  more. 
liTot  only  more,  but  of  a  higher  order,  and  of  a  unique 
type.  They  have  only  to  be  known  to  be  appreciated; 
not  only  by  us,  but  by  the  VVorld. 

Were  I  called  upon  to  designate  the  country  having  the 
most  beautiful  and  the  greatest  variety  of  scenery,  and  in 
its  greatest  perfection  all  the  elements  of  grandeur,  mag- 
nificence  and   sublimity,    I   would    unhesitatingly    name 

Colorado. 

Lately  it  has  become  fashionable  for  tourists  to  visit  the 
White  Mountains,  and  ancend  to  the  top  of  Mount  Wash- 


190  OVKR    TllK  PLAINS  AND  OS  THE  MOUNTAINS. 

inc:t<)!ij  aii<l  when  tlu'v  return,  they  tell  uh  they  have  been^ 
abuve  the  rluiuls.  Why,  any  of  the  towns  ofOftl()rado,on 
the  Plains  along  the  flank  of  the  Kocky  Mountains,  areas 
hiirh  above  the  sea  as  the  top  of  Mount  Washini^ton; 
while  those  on  the  mountains  are  from  three  to  four  thou- 
Nind  feet  hii^her.  As  for  sights,  go  to  the  bottom  of  one  of 
those  awful  chasms  that  seam  the  great  Cordilleras  in  all 
dire('ti()ns,  and  look  uj)  the  side  of  the  cleft  mountain 
that  lifts  its  rocky  escarpment  to  the  clouds.  How  utterly 
insignificant  is  anj-thing  man  has  done,  or  can  do,  when 
r-ompured  -with  this  Cyclopean  work  of  Nature  ! 

Everywliere,  in  threading  the  labyrinthine  mazes  of  the 
mountain  <-anyons,  these  overhanging,  cloudcapped  and 
otVntimes  beetling  clilfs  are  met  with  liut  foremost 
amongst  these  stands  Jioulder  Canyon,  unequaled  either 
in  the-o  remarkable  mountxiins  orin  the  world,  for  the  va- 
riety, grandeur  and  sublimity  of  its  scenery.  Its  only  pos- 
sible rival  is  the  Yosemite  Valley  of  California.  But  the 
Yoscmite  is  a  spectacle  of  a  <llfferent  order  It  is  a  valley 
quiet  in  all  its  aspects;  the  very  embodiment  of  tranquility,, 
if  we  except  the  Bridal  Veil  and  the  cascade  of  the  main 
souree  of  the  Merced,  ]iouring  themselves  into  the  head  of  ' 
the  valley  from  under  the  everlasting  snows  and  ice  of  the 
Sierra  2seva<la.  But  the  Merced  itself  flows  through  the 
valley  so  gently  that  it  scarcely  shows  a  ripple  upon  its  tran- 
quil bosom.  It  even  forms  a  calm  lake  in  thef;entre,  which 
isscareely  ever  ruffled  by  a  passing  breeze.  This  lake  is 
hedged  in  on  all  sides  by  lofty  spruce,  and  the  whole  en- 
closed by  a  loilier  wa41  of  smooth  weather-worn  rocks. 
On  this  wall,  said  to  be  froni  8,000  to  4,000  feet  in  height, 
rise  liigli,  huge  and  babl  l)attlement8  of  giganitc  rocks,, 
named  respeotively,  the  Half  Dome,  the  Dome,  the  Throe 
Brf)thcrs,  etc.  All  these  liave  been  (rroded  by  the  elements 
until  they  a]q)ear  as  though  the  waves  of  the  sea  had 
rolled  over  them  for  myriads  of  years  and  effaced  every 
angular  vestige.  The  Half  Dome,  however,  appears a,s  if, . 
at  a  more  recent  ]>eriod,  one  half  of  it  ha<.i  dropped  in  the 


OVER    THK  PLAINS  AND  ON  TIIK  MOUNTAINS.  191 

abyss  bolow,  and  conHoqiientl^-  on  tliat  sido  lias  a  sharp 
angLo.  The  Three  KrotherH  arc  a  hct'tlirijj;  clitT  iVom 
which  jut  three  immense  rocks,  looking-  as  thougli  three  , 
huge  hexagonal  crystals  were  superimposed  one  above  tho 
other,  with  their  points  directed  horizontally  towards  the 
valley.  Though  the  Yosemite  has  an  exhuberant  growth 
of  spruce  within  it,  yet  the  mountain  Avail  and  the  country 
surrounding  it  arc  entircdy  bare.  Xo  sign  of  vegetation 
is  to  be  seen  on  it;  and  therefore  its  smoothness,  combined 
with  the  utter  sterility  surrounding  it,  give  it  an  exceed- 
ing tamo  and  commonplace  appearance.  In  fact  the  whole 
environment  of  the  valley  looks  as  though  desolation  bad 
swept  over  the  region  and  had  blasted  and  annihilated  all 
vegetal  life,  except  what  is  enclosed  in  this  secluded  little 
dell,  two  miles  long,  an<l  half  a  mile  wide.  The  surround- 
insrs  therefore  have  a  dreariness  and  monotony  that  are 
absolutely  painful,  and  the  valley,  or  more  properly  dell, 
taken  as  a  wliole,  fails  to  affect  and  impress  the  senses 
vividly. 

Not  so,  however,  Avith  Boulder  (■anyon.  Its  Avails  are 
as  steep  and  high  as  those  of  the  Yosemite,  yet  they  arc 
not  bleak,  bare,  smooth  and  sterile,  but  for  tifteen  milen 
are  fearfully  Avild,  rough,  bold,  angular  and  grand,  Avith 
their  sides  clothed,  and  their  summit.s  ci-OAvned  Avith  ever- 
green shrubs  and  trees.  Its  Avaters  are  not  a  calm  lake 
nor  an  unruffled  stream,  but  a  milk-Avhite,  dashing,  roaring 
mountain  river,  rushing  through  a  rocky  gorge  oflen  hav- 
ing a  descent  exceeding  Aa-c  hundred  feet  to  the  mile.  In 
density  of  thicket  and  number  of  trees  at  any  one  point,, 
it  cannot  bo  compared  with  the  Yosemite,  Imtin  size  it  can,, 
for  it  has  trees  four  feet  in  diameter  and  upAvards  of  two 
hundred  feet  high.  The  Falls  of  the  North  Boulder  can- 
not be  compared  Avith  the  Bridal  Veil,  but  the  Avhole  river 
ih  a  continuous  cascade  Avhich  immensely  enhances  the 
wildness  of  the  scenery  and  stamps  its  impress  on  the 
mind.  The  Yosemite  and  the  Canyon  are  therefore  spec- 
tacles of  entirely  different  orders.     As  already  stated,  one 


192  OVER  THE  PI^\INS    AND  ON  THE  MOUNTAINS. 

is  the  iinpersonaiion  of  roposo  and  tranquility,  tho  other, 
that  of  rcstlcssncsH  and  intense  activity.  These  two 
oi*dei*5ii  must  impress  the  mind  \sith  differciit  feelings  and 
emotions.  Inspiration  always  comes  from  without.  We 
drink  in  the  very  spirit  of  tho  objects  we  behold  and  con- 
template. If  it  be  a  quiet  scene,  however  beaulilul  and 
grand  it  may  be,  the  spirit  that  pervades  it  will  iustiintly 
evoke  is  counterpart  in  our  own  bosoms.  If  it  be  wild, 
violent  and  turbulent  as  well  as  grand,  beautiful  and 
sublime,  our  emotions  will  be  of  tho  same  order. 

For  exciting  intensity  of  feeling,  wild  and  turbulent 
passions  and  overwhelming  emotions,  Boulder  canyon 
must  have  an  incontestible  superiority  over  the  Yosemito 
Valley. 

To  give  relaxation  to  tlie  mind  and  variety  to  the  03'e, 
beautUul  and  charming  vistas  are  essential.  It  lias  boea 
assorted  that  the  Rocky  ^lountains,  unlike  the  A\])i^,  do 
not  afford  them.  I  must-contest  this  assertion,  if  there 
is  a  jnore  beautiful  vista  than  that  to  be  seen  in  Boulder 
canyon,  near  the  narrowsj  where  you  look  out  from  tinder 
i\  canopy  of  immense  spi'ucc  trees,  and  up  the  gorge,  down 
■which  rolls  a  foaming  torrent,  enclosed  by  perpendicuhir 
walls,  and  see  at  about  a  hundred  rods  distant  a  transvereo 
mountain  many  thousatid  feet  high,  forming  an  apparent 
cul  de  sac,  then  I  liave  not  heard  of  it,  nor  seen  it  describ- 
ed. Then  again  there  are  the  many  mountain  lakes, 
Homctimes  nearly  cncu'<led  by  j)erpondicular  or  over- 
hanging precipices,  at  others  surrounded  by  a  forest  of 
])icturcsque,  tall  and  tapering  fir  trees.  If  a  look  through 
<lensc  groves  of  tall  evergreens  and  across,  or  u])  the  lake 
walled  in  by  a  rocky  escarpment,  a  thousand  feet  high,  or 
hedged  around  by  an  evergreen  foncst,  is  not  a  charming 
vista,  then  I  do  not  tmdcrstand  what  is  meant  by  that  term. 
Airain  vou  can  take  your  stai»(l  at  the  head  of  a  narrow 
vale.  The  mountains  that  form  itssidesare  fir-clad, stocp, 
rugged  and  impassible,  confining  tho  view  to  a  single 
point  down  tho  doll.     It  widens  out  somewhat  aa  it  do- 


OVER  THE  PLAIN'S    AND  OX  THE  MOUNTAINS.  193 

scends,  but  curves  round  to  tlie  ri^-ht  or  Icf'l  and  is  finally 
cut  off  from  view  b}^  the  mountain  -wall  on  that  side.  But 
as  it  curves,  you  see  mountain  after  mountain  terminatini;^ 
on  it  endwise,  like  huge  folds  of  a  garmcnl,  umil  iinally 
over  the  A-anishiiig  point  dominates  a  statel}',  majestic 
cone,  rising  many  hundred  feet  above  the  surrounding 
peaks.  Surely  if  this  is  not  a  lovely  vista  of  unsur])assed 
beauty,  then  t-ell  me  Avhat  constitutes  such.  Now  such 
scenes  as  here  described,  are  constantly  to  be  met  with  by 
those  who  ramble  over  these  mrmntains,  or  while  thread- 
ingi*,nd  exploring  their  interminable  gorges  and  chasms, 
lie  who  cannot  discover  them,  or  enjoy  them  Avithout 
borrowed  enthusiasm,  had  better  remain  at  home,  for  he 
will  cull  by  traveling  very  little  knowledge,  either  useful 
or  pleasurable  to  himself,  or  that  will  tend  to  enlighten 
the  world. 

The  trouble  however  is  not  the  absence  of  vistas,  l)ut 
that  some  person  of  taste,  genius  and  imagination,  and  an 
enthusiastic  admiration  of  Nature,  bus  not  preceded  these 
befogged  tourists,  and  discovered  and  described  them. 
Had  there  been,  then  it  would  be  fashionable  to  follow  in 
liis  footsteps,  going  wherever  he  went,  and  admiring,  too, 
whatever  he  admired;  for  if  they  did  not,  it  would  be  ev- 
ident that  these  bell-weather-lcd  tourists  were  people 
without  any  taste. 

As  for  views,  the  most  captious  admit  that  they  arc  not 
only  numerous,  but  grand,  varied,  and  many  of  them 
magnificent.  There  is  scarcely  an  elevated  i)oint  on  the 
plains  or  mountains,  from  which  a  splendid  view  cannot 
be  obtained.  This  is  my  experience,  as  will  bo  seen  by 
the  poru'^al  of  these  pages,  yet  I  ascenddl  none  of  the 
highest  peaks,  found  c^nly  in  the  Snowy  IJange.  T  found 
the  ]>eaks  near  the  edge  of  the  T'lains  give  the  most  varied 
and  therefore  most  charming  views.  It  a]>})ears  to  you  as 
though  the  cone  on  which  3-0U  stand  were  a  mere  high 
hill  on  a  vast  table-land  constituting  the  mountain,  Avhile 
around  you  rise  similar  jjinc-clad  peaks  northward  and 
13 


194      OVER  THE  I'l^VlNS  AND  ON  TUE  MOUNTAINS. 

Bouthward  as  fur  as  the  eyo  can  reach,  and  westward  alsOy 
until  they  cuhninate  in  the  bald  Snowy  Ilange.  Eastward, 
almost  at  j-our  feet,  lies  the  Plain,  drained  by  the  South 
Platte  and  its  affluents.  Beyond  the  Platto  is  the  Denver 
Pacitic  railroad  to  C'heyenne,  upon  whic-h  are  seen  trains 
going  in  opposite  directions;  and  beyond  that  to  the  boun- 
dary of  the  horizon,  a  hundred  or  nioi*e  miles  of  the 
mythical  'MJreat  American  Desert"  are  in  sight.  The 
eye  follows  wilh  pleasure  the  Platte  and  its  affluents,  by 
the  silvery  sheen  of  their  waters,  marked  out  also  by  a 
straggling  row  of  Cottonwood.  The  basin  of  the  Platte  is 
diversilied  by  towns,  villages,  hamlets,  farms  and  ninches. 
On  the  uncultivated  Plain,  thousands  of  cattle  are  seen 
grazing.  The  irrigating  canals  are  even  visible,  stretch- 
ing out  through  the  characteristic  bluish  gray  of  the 
Plains,  to  the  wheat  .and  cornfields  that  fleck  and  diver- 
sify it  with  patches  of  deep  green.  Such  a  view  there  is 
near  (i-olden  City,  which  I  have  already  described,  and 
such  views  there  are  in  the  vicinity  of  Boulder,  and  I  prc- 
Bunie  anywhere  on  the  high  peaks  along  the  Plains. 
Between  the  ^liddle  ami  North  Boulder,  some  two  miles 
below  Castle  llock,  there  is  a  high  peak,  which  ilr.  Bar- 
nabas Smith,  one  of  my  compagnons  de  i-oijage  ascended,. 
which  he  thinks  must  have  been  the  ^foujit  of  Temj)ta- 
tion,  80  beautiful,  graiul,  rich  and  extensive  is  the  view 
fr(5m  it.  At  least,  he  thinks  that  if  the  Devil  owned  and 
could  show  a  goo<l  title  to  all  that  can  be  seen  from  it,  it 
would  bo  a  tempting  bait  to  mammon-loving  souls,  if 
ofTorcd  as  a  bountv  for  enlistment  in  liis  scM'vice.  It  is  too 
far  inti-rior  to  see  the  settlements  immediately  along 
the  foot  ol'  the  mountain,  but  Denver,  A''almont,  Erie, 
Burlington,  LonguKnit,  Evans  and  Greelc}-,  are  all  in 
sight,  while  the  course  of  the  Platte,  from  above  Denver 
to  far  below  Greeley  is  seen  glittering  in  the  sun,  and 
marked  out  by  the  line  of  Cottonwood  trees.  Be- 
yond it  are  the  great  Plains,  unbroken,  except  by  the 
railroad  near  the  river  margin,  on  which  are    seen    the 


OVKR  THE  I'l^INS  AND  ON  THE  MOUNTAINS.      195 

passing  trains.  Between  the  foot  of  tho  mountains  and 
tho  Platte,  tho  plain  is  seamed  as  if  by  silver  threads,  by 
the  two  Boulders,  Left  Hand  Creek,  St.  Vrain  Fork,  Big 
and  Little  Thompson  and  the  Caehe-a-la-Poudre,  all  moun- 
tain torrents,  draining  the  Cordilleras  east  of  the  Snowy 
I{a,ngej  and  their  margins  lined  by  villages,  farms  and 
ranches  to  their  junetion  with  the  Platte. 

Immediately  north,  and  at  a  distance  of  about  two 
miles,  rises  Sugar  Loaf  Mountain  to  nearly  a  thousand 
feet  higher  than  this  point.  Farther  north  and  west,  at  a 
distance  of  some  25  miles,  is  the  liabbit  Ears,  a  double 
peaked  cone;  and  to  the  northwest,  at  the  distance  of 
thirty  miles,  is  Long's  Peak,  rising  to  an  altitude  of  14,300 
feet,  and  covered  with  perpetual  snow.  AVest  lie  tho  im- 
broken  but  serrated  Snowy  Piinge.  Tho  view  from 
Sutrar  Loaf  is  still  more  extended,  and  that  from  Long's 
Peak  is  said  to  bo  inconceivably  grand. 

Tho  vicinity  of  the  Boulder  and  Sugar  Loaf  Mountain 
would  bo  very  attractive  to  tourists,  if  there  wero  a  hotel 
there.  Tlie  waters  of  the  two  Boulders,  Four  Mills  and 
J.eft  hand  crocks  are  filled  with  Tnountain  trout,  and  in  tho 
heavily  timbered  district  around  about  are  mountain 
grouse,  blacktailed  deer,  elk,  mountain  sheep,  and  occa- 
sionally a  cinnamon  bear.  Old  grizzly,  it  is  said,  has  left 
these  parts  in  disgust. 

James'  Peak  in  the  Snowy  lu'inge  at  tho  Boulder  Pass 
into  ^riddle  Park,  and  Gra3-'s  Peak  further  south  in  the 
same  range  and  west  of  Georgetown,  are  well  known  points 
and  much  atroctcd  by  tourists  for  the  fine  views  from  their 
summits.  Farther  to  tho  southwest  and  on  the  northern 
line  of  tho  South  Park,  stands  the  Titan  of  the  Cordilleras, 
Mount  Tiincoln,  said  to  be  over  17000  feet  above  tho  sea. 
Being  more  remote  and  in  a  less  frequented  part  of  tho 
mountains  it  is  not  so  well  known  and  appreciated  as  it 
deserves  to  be.  However,  from  the  difficulty  of  ascending 
it  without  a  <xuide,  and  tho  ALirch-liko  cold  and  wind  al- 


196  OVER  TTIK  PLAIN'S    AND  OX  Til  K  >ror.VTAINS. 

ways  on  its  summit,  ])i-cv:iiliiii;'  i-viMi   in   iiiiil   Smnmor,   it 
will  lu'vor  become  so  popular  as  otluT  ])eal;s. 

The  whole  of  Mount  Lincoln  is  auriferous  unci  argentif- 
erous, ami  manv  ricli  lodes  both  of  i^old  and  silver  are 
worked  on  its  sides.  From  \\\o  base  a  road  has  been  con- 
structed a  mile  and  a  half  long  up  to  the  edge  of  the  tim- 
ber line  for  hauling  quai'tz,  which  is  obtained  from  a  lode 
nearly  12000  feet  above  the  sea.  Several  thousand  feet 
altove  tiiis  is  a  rieli  silver  lode,  the  ore  of  which  is  jiacked 
on  jackasses  and  carried  down  to  the  end  of  the  road. 
From  the  end  of  llie  road  sevt'i'al  trails  can  1)0  followed; 
some  steeper,  more  rugged  an<l  dilUcult  than  others.  Ilence 
the  necessity  of  a  guide,  or  of  being  accompanied  by  some 
one  familiar  with  the  mountain.  One  the  more  difficult, 
but  shoi'ter,  is  up  through  a  valley  extending  from  the 
"timber  line"  to  an  abru^jt  prc^cipice.  This  valle}'  is  from 
an  eighth  to  a  half  a  mile  wide,  has  a  stream  of  ice  water 
flowing  down  it,  and  has  several  ponds  or  smalllakcs  in  it. 
Froia  where  the  valley  terminates  it  is  two  miles  to  the 
summit  Avith  an  incline  of  fortv  five  deo-rcH's  covered  with 
loose  ])ebbles,  shells  and  rocks  which  make  the  footing 
ver}'  difficult  and  insecure.  Ilowciver  by  lal)orious  effort 
and  persevering  climbing  with  frequent  pauses  to  rest, 
necessitated  by  the  rarity  of  the  atmosphere  at  this  great 
altitude,  the  summit  is  finally  i-eachc(|.  '^Phe  more  popular 
route  howevci-  is  to  ascend  a  I'idge  riiiiiiiiig  East  from  the 
summit  of  the  mountain.  By  this  route,  the  ascent  can  be 
made  to  within  800  feet  of  the  top  on  horseback;  then 
leavin<r  the  horses  at  an  ininumse  snow  bank,  the  remainder 
of  the  ascent  can  be  made  on  foot  up  a  steep  acclivity.  But 
having  attained  the  summit  the  view  is  inexpressively  mag- 
nificent. You  have  left  the  world  and  its  din  ])ehind,  and 
ascended  far  above  all  signs  of  life,  cither  animal  or  vegeta- 
ble. On  every  side,  butfar  Uelowyou,  ar(^  Ijhak,  dreary,sul- 
len,  stern  and  icy  jteaks.  <'oloi'ado  iss])read  out  at  your  feet 
South  Park  sixty  miles  long  and  thii-ty  Avide,  with  its  un- 
dulating hills,  green  meadows,  glittering  lakes  and  silver 


OVEU  THE  PLAINS   AND  ON  TIIK  MOUNTAINS.  107 

.sti'oaias,  is  ;i  more  spook  on  tlio  vast,  jjanoraina.  You  look 
over  Louie's  Peak  uomh  almost  iiilo  Dakota;  to  the  west 
strelehin;^  towards  the  n-ol-Jeii  shores  of"  the  Pueifie,  3-0U 
look-  over  the  i)Iaiiis  of  Utah,  Soiitli  over  the  .Spanish 
Peaks  into  Xow  Mexico.  To  the  Southeast  over  Pike's 
Peak,  into  the  valley  of  the  Arkansas;  and  eastward  be- 
yond the  Cordilleras  upwards  of  a  hundi-cd  miles  away, 
rise  the  bluish  t:;ray  sea  of  the  boundless  Plains. 

The  sources  of  Blue  river  in  ^Middle  Park  which  tails  in- 
to Grand  River,  an  al!lucnt  of  the  C-'olorado  of  the  "West; 
and  those  of  the  .Vrkansas  westward  in  a  deej)  mountain 
cunyon,  are  all  in  sii^lit.  The  lake,  frozen  the  year  round, 
from  which  issues  the  noj-thern  branch  of  the  South  Platte 
more  than  13000  feet  above  the  sea,  seems  so  near  thouirli 
several  miles  away,  that  it  appeai-s  as  if  a  stone  might  be 
thrown  into  it  from  this  summit.  Thouiidi  ilir  outside  of 
the  usual  route  of  travel,  good  accommodations  and  excel- 
lent fare  can  be  had  at  the  village  of  Montiromerv  at  the 
northern  base  of  the  mountain. 

The  numerous  mountain  lakes  well  stocked  witli  speckled 
trout,  are  interesting  objects  to  visit,  both  for  the  un- 
suii:)assing  l)cauty  of  their  scenery,  and  f  )r  the  sport  they 
afford  to  the  disciples  of  Sir  Isaac  AValton. 

Golden  Lake,  in  Boulder  county,  Green  Lake,  west  of 
Georgetown,  and  the  Chicago  Lalces,  in  Clear  Creek 
count}-,  all  lie  in  convenient  distances  on  the  usual  i-oute 
of  travtd  and  are  easily  accessiide.  Li  ilict,  in  everv  ])art 
of  the  Mountains  and  in  the  great  Parks,  lliese  lalcc's  are 
found. 

When  satiated  Avith  mountain  scenei-y,  let  the  tourist 
descend  to  the  elevated  plateau  that  runs  out  eastward 
into  the  Plains  from  Pike's  Peak,  for  nearly  one  hundred 
miles.  It  is  well  covered  with  pine,  mostly  the  Pinuspo7i- 
</erosc/,  and  is  called  the '^ Divide,"  since  it  separates  the 
waters  flowing  north  into  the  Platte  from  those  flowing 
south  into  the  Arkansas.  It  has  many  s]irings  and  from 
its  sides  issue  Plum  Creek,  Punning  Water,  Cheriy,  Kiowa, 


lOS  OVER    TlIK  I'LAIN'H  AND  OX  TIIK  MOLNTAINS. 

liijou,  Coyoto  jinJ  othor  creeks  that  flow  into  the  Platto  J 
jiiul    Bii^   Sandy,   ^[onunieut,  Fontaine    qui  buille,    Camp 

and  other  ereeks  IId'.v    into    tlio    Arkansan.     In  fact,  the 
Smoky   Hill,    Scdomcjn,  Salina  and   even  the   Jiepul)Iican 
forks  of  the  Kaw,  have-  their  sources  in  its  eastern  flank. 
It   is   the    Paradise   of  ranch-men    and    lln-incrs;    and   is 
already  comparatively  thickly  settled.     It  is  an  Arcadia  of 
beauty  and  tranquility  Avliich    will  enchant,  the  ndniirer  of 
a  rural    landscape,   ^vhile   its  geological    lormation  has  a 
peculiar  interest  to  the  scientist  us  "well  as  to  the  curiosity 
seeker.     Those,  so  called,  monuments  abound  in  more  or 
less  frequency  through   its  whole   extent  from  the  foot  of 
the  mountains  to    its   m(»st    eastern    Hunk    on   the  Plains. 
l)Ut    they  are  especially    abundant    in    ci-rtain    localities. 
Monument  Creek,  has   been  a[)})roi)riately   nanifd  so  for 
the  number  of  these  eroded  stones  stiinding  in  its  basin, 
especially  at  one  point.     This  is  one  of  the  most  curious 
and  singular  spectacles  that  can  be  found  in  the  world.     It 
consists  of  yellowish,  white  sandstones,  comj)osed  of  strata 
differing   considerably  in   hardness.     Und<'r   the    erosive 
action  of  the  tlements,  the  fiofier  strnta  have  disintegrated 
more  rapidly  than  the  harder.     Consequently  these  shafts 
or  columns  exhibit  every  variety  of  jihantastic  forms.     At 
some  })oints  worn  very  slender,  at   others   leaving  large 
protuberances;  it  requires  but  little  aid  from  tlie  imagina- 
tion to  see,  or  to  fancy  you  see,  in  some  immense  folds  of 
drapery  lianging  fi-om  what  may  be  taken  as  the  shoulder 
of  a  gigantic  stiitue;  aM<l  in  others  the   bare  chest,  or  the 
outstretched  ami  of  an  Indian  bra\-f'.     In  fact,  there  is  no 
limit  to  likenesses  or  sup])oscd  likenesses  the  fancy  may 
conceive  and  the  inuigination  foi-m,  whilt!  looking  at  this 
singular  spectacle.     For  instance:  a   towering  triangular 
one  about  thirty  feet  high,  has  Ijeen  imagined  to  resemble 
Washington;  and  as  the  t(^p  of  it,  having  Avithstood  the 
action  of  tlio  elemenls  ))ettcr  than  the  softer  itrata  below, 
gives   it  a  nuinber   of   angular   ])rnj(v.(ii,iis   jiot   uiiliko  a 
three-cocked  hat,  the  resemblance  is  conceived  to  be  com- 


OVEU  THE  PLAINS   AND  ON  THE  MOUNTAINS.  199 

jjlcte;  and  a.s  it  is  also  surrournled  by  a  p;rouj)  of  lesser 
columns,  these  have  been  iinapjinotl  to  represent  his  staff. 
Ilcnee  the  whole  j^roiip  is  laneiod  to  i-eprosent  General 
Washin<j;ton  holdinj;  a  council  of  war,  and  it  has, been 
named  so  accordin<;ly.  Another  has  been  imagined  to 
represent  an  Indian  chief  with  his  :ii-in  extended,  and  his 
blanket  fallin-;  in  folds  froni  his  shoulder;  and  another  as 
an  Indian  maiden,  Thouj^h  there  are  many  spots  where 
these  Kin<j;ular  columns  are  found  alone  and  in  groups,  yd 
on  account  of  the  number  found  at  this  one  point,  in  the 
midst  of  a  large  grove  of  pine  tree  i,  it  has  been  called 
Monument  Paric. 

Near  Colorado  City,  on  the  Creek,  named  by  the  French 
traders,  Fontaine  qui  Buille  (that  is  the  Boiling  Fountain, 
because  it  rises  in  four  etfervescent  soda  springs  whoso 
constant  bubbling  give  the  water  the  appearance  of  boil- 
ing violently),  there  are  what  are  called  the  Gardens  of 
the  Gods.  The  larger,  calUid  the  First  Garden  of  the 
Gods,  is  an  enclosed  area  of  six  or  seven  miles  long  and 
from  a  few  rods  to  a  quarter  of  a  mihj  wide.  The  en- 
closing rock  is  com])Osed  of  various  strata,  but  its  ]»redom- 
inant  one  is  red  sedimentary  sandstone  of  a  brick  color. 
The  onterancc  has  a  gale-like  appearance  of  perpendicular 
rocks  two  hundred  feet  high,  and  the  wall  generally  is 
from  200  to  275  feet  high,  having  an  inclination  of  a  few 
degrees  from  the  ])crpendicular,  but  at  phu't's  actually 
leaning  over  from  five  to  ten  degrees.  As  at  the  proper 
season  this  little  dell  is  a  continuous,  glaring  and  gaudy 
floral  plot,  all  the  richly  colored  wild  flowers  indigenous 
to  this  region  being  found  in  it,  it  has  been  very  ajjpro- 
priately  named  the  Garden  of  the  Gods. 

About  for  miles  northwest  of  Colorado  City  is  tho 
second  Garden  of  the  Gods,  through  which  flows  Camp 
Creek,  lis  gateway  is  tlirough  a  passage  cut  by  the  creek 
at  right  angles  to  the  ridge.  In  this  enclosure  there  is 
said  to  bo  a  fine  echo. 

This  must  sufiico  for  the  present,  not  because  tho  subject 


200  ovEii  TiiK  rr-Ai.vs  and  o\  the  mountains. 

is  Gxluiustod  but  bceauso  if  "\vo  entered  into  a  coinpletc 
detail  of  all  the  .sul)liiue  and  Avondei'ful  scenery  of  this 
mountain  rei:;i(Mi  this  narrative  would  I)e  drawn  out  to  an 
ahno.st  interniiiuible  length.  I  have  shown  enough  to 
make  it  ineontestiblo  that  Colorado  possesses  in  the  highest 
degree,  every  requisite  to  meet  the  demands  of  the  tourist, 
and  is  deserving  of  their  attention,  before  thinking  of 
going  abroad 


OVEIl   'i'llii  i'LAl.NtJ  AND  OS  i'lli;  .MUUMAiNti.  201 


CIIxVPTEll  XVI  r. 


Colorado  in  its  curly  history  was  the  theatre  of  sfin-in< 
scenes,  such  as  marked  the  early  settlement  of  Ic.it  few  in- 
cipient States;  and -which  are  not  excelled,  if  ccjiialed,  in 
thrilling'  interest  by  those  of  any  Terrritor}-  in  tlie  Union. 
Originally  included  Avithin  the  geographical  limits  of 
Kansas,  yet  so  wild  and  remote  that  it  was  visited  only  by 
a  few  daring  trap])ers  and  traders.  Its  nominal  inclusion 
within  the  jurisdiction  of  Kansas  was  regarded  as  a  mere 
empty  form ;  for  it  was  not  supposed  that  tlu-  Tcn-itorial 
government  of  Kantos  could  exercise  any  s!iow  of  au- 
thority in  this  remote  region;  or  that  even  the  (reneral 
Government  avouIiI  tind  it  possible,  if  necessary,  to  do 
more  than  to  keep  the  roving  tribes  of  savages  somc- 
Avhat  in  check,  and  to  restrict  them  to  desirable  limits. 

But  when  the  "Pike's  Peak  fever"  l)roko  out,  gold 
hunters,  and,  consefjuently  gamblers,  desperadoes  ami 
almost  every  kind  of  desperate  adventurers  tlocke<l  to 
ihis  sup])osed  Eldorado:  the  former  to  scclc  gold;  and 
live  latter  to  look  for  chances  to  ]»luii(h'r  wilh  ini;)U!iity; 
in  many  instances  they  being  fugitivi's  from  justice  in  the 
States. 

The  niinersspread  tluMuselves  in  lone  cam])s  foi-  hinidreds 
of  milesalong  the  eastern  flank  of  these  mouJitains  ;  tempo- 
rarily to  prospect  and  search  for  the  precious  metals,  and  to 
make  ])ennanent  homes  here  if  their  labors  should  ])rove- 
siiccessful.  In  the  latter  case  mining  villages  soon  spriing- 
up,  which  became  nuclei  fn-  concentrating  and  distribut- 
ing supplies;  and  consequently  also  the  ]»oints  for  ex- 
changing *'dust"  by  the  fearless  prospectors,  who  jjushed 
tlieir  explorations  and  search  for  gold  into  the  most  re- 


202      OVKK  THK  I'l.MNS  AND  ON  THE  MOUNTAINS. 

mote  iintroddon  wilds,  and  gloomy  recesses  of  Xhe  moun- 
tains. These  villages  8oon  were  found  to  be  infested  with 
gamblers,  cut-throats  and  other  desperadoes,  so  that 
neither  life  nor  property  was  safe.  Lawlessness  became 
so  rife  that  even  murder  did  not  seek  the  obscurity  of  the 
night  to  jterf  M-ni  and  hide  his  deeds.  Crime  in  all  its  liid- 
eous  forms  stalked  abroad  at  noondaj'',  bold  and  defiant. 
There  was  no  government  to  restrain  it,  much  less  to  pun- 
ish it.  The  law-abiding,  industrious  miner  had  either  to 
flee  the  region,  or  to  take  the  means  of  protection  into 
his  own  hands.  }\y  men  who  had  single-handed  encoun- 
tered and  vanquished  the  grizzly  bear,  and  defied  and 
ke])t  at  bay  the  wily,  blood-thirsty  savage,  the  idea  of 
yielding  ground  to  sneaking,  cowardly  thieves  and  assas- 
sins, could  not  be  entertained,  and  therefore  they  deter- 
mined to  expel  them  from  the  country.  Amongst  the 
miners  were  many,  good,  true,  brave  and  resolute  men, 
equal  to  any  emergenfy  that  could  arise.  These  soon  do- 
vised  and  perfected  an  organization  for  mutual  ])7'otection. 
They  constituted  themselves  the  guardians  both  of  the 
public  peace  and  safety,  by  devising,  enacting  and  execu- 
ting such  rules  anrl  laws  as  the  emergency  required. 
These  laws  were  enforced  most  rigorously  through  the 
"People's  (Jourts."  Life  was  demanded  for  life,  and  the 
murderer  liad  short  shrift  and  summary  ])unishment; 
other  ofTcnces  and  criminals  were  as  summarily  dealt  Avith; 
and  in  a  s'.iort  time  there  was  such  a  hegira  of  scoundrels 
from  the  mountains  as  was  never  witnessed  anywhere  be- 
fore, nor  i?ince.  Lawlessness  ancl  crime  had  not  only  re- 
laxed their  grasp  u])on  the  community,  but  let  go  their 
hold,  and  terror-stricken  were  fleeing  from  the  presence  of 
the  avenger.  Since  tlien,  now  more  than  eleven  years, 
the  country  lias  been  i'rce  from  violence,  and  life  and 
property  as  secure  as  anywhere,  except  as  endangered  by 
savage  raids.  The  prominent  actors  in  tliese  stirring 
times,  now  the  most  promment  citizens  in  their  respective 
counties,  are  yet  to  be  found  everywhere,  and  you  can  hear 


OVER   THE  ri^\lN8  AND  ON  THE  MOUNTAINS.  203 

the  thrilling  narratives  of  these  bloody  scenes  from  their 
own  lips. 

It  Avas  a  stormy  and  gloomy  time  when,  in  18G1,  Col. 
William  Gilpin,  the  newly  appointed  and  first  Governor, 
arrived  to  organize  the  Territorial  (Jovcrnnient.  More 
than  one-half  of  the  area  of  the  cismontano  portion  of  the 
Union  was  in  open  rebellion  against  the  Federal  authority. 
As  a  large  portion  of  the  population  here  was  from  the 
Southern  States,  a  division  of  sentiment  based  upon  the 
sectional  line  had  taken  place  from  the  earliest  period  of  the 
controversy.  When  the  war  broke  out,  the  gathering 
tempest  soon  marshalled  and  concentrated  its  forces  in 
this  distant  land,  and  the  storm  was  about  to  buret  in  all 
its  fury  when  the  Governor  arrived.  Delay  would  have 
been  dangerous,  so  he  took  prompt  measures  to  organize 
the  territorial  government  at  once.  It  was  a  sad  sight  in 
a  weak  and  defenseless  community,  remote  from  succor 
and  surrounded  by  savage  foes,  to  see  such  fierce  and 
irreconcilable  dissentions.  True,  bravo  and  tried  men 
who  had  stood  firm  as  a  rock,  braving  danger  in  all  its 
forms,  and  acting  together  in  case  of  necessity,  like  a 
solid  phalanx  not  only  against  the  wily  and  murderous 
savage,  but  the  no  loss  cruel  and  barbarous  white  outlaws 
and  desperadoes,  now  had  become  divided  into  hostile 
factions  and  ready  to  engage  in  a  conflict  in  wliich  victory 
was  not  so  much  the  obJ(><'t,  as  extermination.  One  party 
was  ready  to  dare  and  do  anything  that  the  infant  colony 
might  be  offered  up  a  sacrifice  to  the  3Ioloch  of  Slavery, 
while  the  other  was  just  as  determined  and  resolute  to 
sacrificeall  their  worldly  possessions  and  life  itself  if  neces- 
sary, to  maintain  this  ricli  and  beautiful  land  sacred  to  hu- 
man freedom  and  liberty.  Collision  was  only  prevented  by 
the  prompt,  energetic  and  decisive  measures  taken  by  the 
new  Governoi',  being  himself  one  of  the  oldest  residents 
of  the  mountains,  and  who,  they  all  knew,  was  a  daring, 
fearless,  brave  and  resolute  man.  The  crisis  therefore 
passed  without  any  serious  distui'banoo;   and  the  better 


204  OVER  THE    l>t>AlNS  AND  OX  THE  MOUNTAINS. 

antl  bravest  portion  of  tlie  southern  party  either  ac- 
•  Hiieseed  in  the  established  order  of  things  as  determined 
by  the  majority,  or  instead  of  maiving  it  a  neighborhood 
warfare,  tDok  uj)  the  braver  and  more  manly  course,  of  re- 
turning to  thrir  respective  Statcvs  and  entering  the  regular 
service  of  the  Confederates.  Xot  so  however  with  that 
part  of  th<'m  who  lielonged  to  what  in  tlie  States  were 
stylod  th"  "  home  sneaks/'  men  too  cowardly  to  fight,  but 
malicujus  and  brutal  enough,  in  the  dark  or  under  cover, 
to  act  the  neighborhood  assassin,  these  latter  went  to^ 
Xcw  Mexico  and  Texas  to  organize  military  and  maraud- 
ing e.xjieditions  against  the  defenseless  colony  thinly 
scattered  over  these  mountains  or  along  their  flanks  on  the 
Plains.  Cut  Avors-,^  tluui  all,  some  of  these  malignants 
went  into  the  countrv  of  the  wild  Indians  and  ex(!ited 
them  to  hostilities,  and  thus  brought  upon  this  infant 
colony  the  merciless  butcheries  of  a  savage  warfare. 

To  thwart  the  machinations  of  these  malevolent  dis- 
contents. Governor  (Jiljiin  organized  three  regiments  of 
volunteers,  which  did  efficient  service  both  at  liome 
against  the  Indians  and  m  Xew  Mexico  in  repelling  and 
defeating  the  Texas  military  expclition.  However  the 
savages  encouraged  by  bad  white  men^  and  emboldened 
liy  the  ap[)arent  tardiness  or  imjjotency  of  tlie  fjcneral 
Government  to  punish  their  crimes,  continued  making 
their  murderous  forays  upon  the  mining  cani]ts  of  the 
mountains,  or  the  agricuhui'al  sctilciiiciits  f)n  the  Plains; 
and  committed  the  most  Khocking  and  revolting  atrocities,, 
during  the  entire  was  and  for  two  years  after,  when  they 
were  summarily  chastised  liotli  by  tlie  General  (rovern- 
ment  ami  by  citizens  of  thcTerrittny.  Under  such  a  state 
of  things  it  is  no  wonder  tliat  the  exasperation  was  great,, 
and  that  when  tlie  hour  a.'nl  opportunity  i'or  taking  ven- 
geance had  arrived^  it  was  executed  summarily  and  relent- 
lessly 

My  object  is  not  here  to  give  a  narrative  of  these  Indian 
atrocities,  marked  by  the  merciless  butcheries  of  defense- 


OYER  TIIK  PLAINS  AND  ON  THE  MOUNTAINS.  205 

less  M'omnn  and  cliildren,  tlio  dosolation  of  homes  an<l  the 
extinguishment  of  entire  liimilies  and  KOttlcments,  these 
must  be  loft  to  the  historian  and  the  romancer,  but  to 
give  an  iiisiglit  into  the  causes  and  extent  of  these  troubles, 
■\vhicli  at  least  palliat*;  iftlun'  do  not  justify  the  eignal  an«l 
decisive  acts  l)y  which  they  wcTre  avenged,  after  having 
been  endured  for  seven  long  years.  Go  wherever  you 
will  at  night  either  on  the  mountains  to  the  camp-fires  of 
the  miner  and  prospector,  or  to  the  hamlet  (m  the  Plains, 
and  3'ou  will  there  find  plenty  of  actors  in  these  stirring 
and  tragic  times,  who  will  relate  harrowing  tales  that 
warm  to  wrath,  or  chill  the  blood  by  their  horrors,  all 
founded  on  facts,  of  the  atrocities  of  the  fiendish  L'tes, 
Apaches,  Navajos  and  Espinosas.  The  tears  will  roll 
down  over  their  weatherbeaten  faces,  Avhile  they  mourn- 
fully tell  you  of  a  noble,  brave  and  beloved  friend  who  in 
the  dead  of  night  with  all  his  family  perish  under  the 
fiendish  onslought  of  the  prowling  savage.  Another  will 
tell  you  of  a  dear,  generous  noble  friend,  an  old  trapper, 
explorer  and  miner  who  fell  unknown  where  into  an  am- 
bush of  the  wily  foe  then  lurking  and  swarming  over  the 
mountains  and  ])erished  where  his  bones  may  yet  be  found 
Tinburieil.  Then  he  will  recount  the  stories  of  his  many 
adventures,  brave  exploits  and  manly  virtues  concluding 
with  a  sigh,  "  ah,  poor,  poor  fellow,  it  is  a  long  time  ago 
fiince  he  went  over  the  range." 

Ask  them  what  they  know  about  the  "Chivington,"  or 
as  it  i -5  more  generally  known  m  the  States,  the '^  Sand 
Creek  massacre,"  and  the  answer  is:  ."I  know  all  about  it, 
for  I  was  thei-e.  That  has  been  stigmatized  as  a  massacre 
and  we  have  been  ajudged  as  murderers  by  those  who  know 
nothing  of  the  fiicts  about  our  wrongs,  nor  of  the  outrage 
that  led  to  it.  AVe  did  our  duty  then,  if  ever,  to  ourselves, 
to  humanity,  our  country  to  our  God.  You  have  been 
told  in  the  States,  these  were  peaceable  and  friendly  ludi- 
-ans.  Peaceable  and  friendly  indeed!  Why  there  was  not 
a  mining  camp  in  the  mountains,  nor  a  town  on  the  Plains 


206  OVER   THE  PLAINS  AND  ON  THE  MOUNTAINS. 

where   there  were  not  daily  brought  the  bodies  of  our- 
friend.4  and  neighbors  and  somelinics  the  bodies  of  whole 
lamilios,  all  gashctl,  scalped  and  chopped  to  pieces  j  mur- 
dered in  cold  blood   by  theso  liends,  and   our  own  homes 
pillaged,  burnt  and  left  desolate.     We  wero  impelled  to 
take  the  remedy  into  our  own  handw,  because  the  military 
officers  wero  fond  of  the  quaker  method  of  dealing  with 
the  Siivages  and  refused  us  protection,  while  they  seemed 
always  ready  to  accord  it  to   our  murderers.     Why,  these 
Indians  had  just  made  ono  of  the  most  murderous  and 
destructive  forays  into  our  settlements  and  were  returning 
hcavil}'  laden  with   plunder  to  the  friendly  protection  of 
Fort  Lyon,  when  we  undertook   that  long  winter  march 
and  surprised  them  almost  under  the  guns  of  the  Fort, 
and — Ah,  well,  they  gave  tis  no  trouble  after  that!     Xow 
that  you  may  know  what  kind  of  friendly  Indians  they 
were,  we  will  tell  you  what  we  found  and  captured  in  their 
cam]) :    Sugar,  coftce,  dry  goods,  whole  boxes  of  boots  and 
shoes,  clothing,  greenbacks  and   bills  of  lading  showing 
tiiat  these  were  the  plunder  obtained  from  some  trains, 
which  had  been  captured,  and  those  in  charge  murdered,, 
a  short  time  befoi-o  on  the  Platte;  but  worse  tlian  that, 
we  found  female  clothing  all   bloody,  a   partially  worn 
ladjr's  shoe,  which  evidently  had  been  filled  with  blood,, 
and  the  scalps  of  white  women  and  children  dangling,  at 
their  sides  or  decorating  the  shields  of  their  braves!"     I, 
asked  if  there   had  not  excesses  been   committed  on  the 
occasion  j  that  I  had   read  that  they  had  fired  ujK)n  and 
killed  the  s(|naws  after  the  men  had  either  been  killed  or 
had  fled  '(     "  That's  true,"  was  the  answer.     **  But  after  the 
braves  were  killed  or  had  fled  the  squaws  took  up  the  fight 
with   the    fierceness  of   grizzly   she-bears  when  fighting 
lor  their  cubs.     Now   if  our  object  had  been  to  rid  our- 
selves of  old  Grizzly,  and   he  had  quit  the  field,  being  too 
cowardly  to  fight,  wcnild  we  have  been  deterred  from  our 
purj>ose  because  the  she-bear  st(jod  her  ground  ?     Certainly 
not;   nor  would  we  in  a  fight  with  any  other  wild  beasts,. 


OVER   THE  PI^\INH  AND  O.V  THE  MOUNTAINS.  207 

for  thcHO  Indiaiih'  blood-lliirstyncss  art^  ^vorsc  tlian  wild 
beasts  !  But  wo  only  ibu^fht  thcni  as  lorii^  as  they  Ibuglit 
ns.  AVhy,  what  else  could  we  do  ?  if  wo  had  run  away 
from  the  squaws,  or  shown  that  we  M'ould  not  light  squaws, 
why  they  would  have  fought  us  with  squaws  ever  after." 

Now  I  do  not  pretend  to  judge  who  was  in  tho  right 
and  who  in  the  wrong  in  that  unhappy  aflair.  But  this 
much  is  evident,  tluTo  arc  two  sides  to  that  as  well  as  to 
every  other  question.  One  side  has  told  its  story  long 
ago,  and  if  these  men  have  been  wronged  and  injustice 
dono  them,  it  is  time  that  their  version  of  tho  afiair  be 
heard.  If  wo  persist  in  prejudging  the  case  against  them, 
they  can  at  least  put  their  protest  upon  record,  and  bravely 
tell  us  to  ^'strilye  but  hear." 

Whatever  may  be  tho  true  explanation  of  the  affair,  of 
one  thing  I  am  certain,  that  malicious  revenge  and  wanton 
cruelty  is  foreign  to  the  nature  of  every  one,  (and  there 
were  a  good  many  of  them,)  that  I  met  in  the  territory; 
who  participated  in  it.  They  are  quiet,  peaceable  and 
inoffensive  men,  enjoying  tho  universal  confidence  and 
respect  of  their  neighbors.  Col.  Chivington,  tho  leader  of 
tho  expedition,  I  did  not  meet,  because  I  did  not  visit  the 
immediate  portion  of  the  territory  where  ho  resides;  but  I 
understood  ho  is  a  leading  and  influential  citizen  of  his 
section,  highly  respected  and  loved  by  tho  people  who 
have  known  him  best  and  longest. 

Afterwards,  in  180(5,  Kanihache,  a  Ute  chief,  murdered 
and  plundered  defenseless  settlers  and  immigrants  in  the 
vicinity  of  Trinidad,  in  Las  Animas  county,  in  tho  south- 
eastern corner  of  tho  Territory.  Emigrants  to  Xew 
Mexico  and  many  defenseless  settlers  wero  pounced  upon,  • 
murdered,  their  property  plundered  or  burnt  and  their 
cattle  and  horses  driven  away.  At  first  so  little  resistance 
was  offered,  that  tho  savages  become  bolder,  and  followed 
their  own  inclinations  to  murder  and  plunder  with  im- 
punity. They  even  threatened  to  depoj)ulato  tho  entire 
region.     Finally,  Col.  Anderson  with  a  troop  of  cavalry 


» 


208  OVER  TllK  ri.AINS    AND  f)N  THE  MOUNTAINS. 

from  Fort  Stevens,  was  sent  to  adjust  the  matter.  In  a 
eonlereneo  with  the  chiels,  the  Colonel  at  first  used  the 
(Quaker  ar-^ument  of  moral  suasion  ;  asking  them  to  desist 
and  to  state  their  gi-iovances  and  he  "would  have  them  re- 
moved, and  justice  done  in  the  matter.  But  they  not  only 
declined  positively  to  state  their  grievances,  but  defied 
liim  to  punish  them.  "Whereupon  he  used  the  sabre  and 
Shar]>e  rille  argument,  gave  them  a  terrible  thrashing, 
killing  most  of  their  braves  and  driving  the  balance  out 
of  the  countr}'  over  the  mountains.  This  atfair  and  that 
at  Sand  Creek  taught  these  savages  that  prowling  over  the 
tcn'itory,  murdering  its  defenceless  inhabitants  and  stealing 
iStock  was  no  longer  a  pleasant  pastime,  but  a  dangerous 
exploit,  and  they  have  not  much  fondness  for  that  kind  of 
sport  since. 

At  these  camp-fires  you  hear  not  only  these  stories  of 
Indian  wars  and  butcheries  related,  but  also  the  exploits 
of  the  principle  chai-acters  that  took  part  in  tlu-m. 

As  might  be  expected  Kit  Carson  is  the  hero  of  a  great 
niany  of  these  camp-fire  tales.  The  Bents,  St.  Train, 
P)iil  "Williams,  the  Autobeas,  Roubideaux,  in  far-t  all  the 
old  mountainers,  are  central  figures  around  which  many 
tales  of  adventures  and  exploits  are  grounded.  Carson 
was  from  Missouri ;  and  so  I  believe  was  the  noble  hearted 
and  brave  Bill  Williams,  long  the  teri-or  of  the  wily  Eed 
bkin  thieves  and  assassins.  lie  was  finally  ambushed  and 
killed  by  them,  in  18G0,  near  the  "  Dead  Camp  of  Fre- 
mont," so  called  because  of  the  disaster  that  befel  the 
party  of  this  brave  explorer  in  1849  on  the  San  Juan 
Mountains. 

The  Bents,  St.  "V'rain  and  Koubideaux  are  from  St. 
Louis.  All  this  heroic  band  spent  the  vigor  and  ])iime  of 
their  lives  in  the  dangei-  and  excitement  of  the  border  as 
trappers,  traders  and  Indian  fighters,  and  became  the 
heroes  of  many  exploits  that  will  carry  their  names  down  to 
posterity.  Being  married  to  Mexican  wives  they  finally 
.settled  in  the  southern  part  of  the  Territor}'-  on  ranches, 


OVER   THE  PLAINS  AND  ON  THE  MOUNTAINis.  200 

And  are  leadina;  a  quiet  and  civil  lit'o.  None  ever  went 
back  to  the  StatCH  to  live  except  Jioiihideaux  who  founded 
the  city  of  St.  Joseph,  where  lio  died  a  sliort  time  aj^o  at 
an  advanced  age.  Col.  St.  Vrain  live«  atToas,  and  of  the 
*' Autobeas,"  that  is,  Tom  and  Charley  Tobin,  Tom,  lives 
on  the  Trcnchera  and  Charle}'  in  llio  Valley  of  the  Huer- 
fano, on  ranches,  extensively  engaged  in  stock-raising. 

But  the  most  conspicuous  figure  in  this  heroic  grouj)  is 
Col.  Pfeifer.  "Whenever  not  on  the  war  ])ath,  "Old 
Pfeifer,"  as  he  is  called, (his  age  however  is  not  yet  forty- 
five,)  makes  his  home  at  Fort  Garland,  in  San  Louis  Park, 
and  Conejos.  He  is  a  grave  silent  man,  and  loves  to  wander 
alone  amid  the  scenes  of  his  exploits,  and  the  graves  of 
his  comrades.  He  came  to  the  Far  West  m  1847,  when 
but  a  mere  boy  fresh  from  the  military  school  of  Stock- 
holm, Sweden,  of  which  country  he  is  a  native,  though  of 
Oerman  descent.  He  soon  became  conspicuous  for  his 
•coolness  and  daring,  and  early  gained  the  distinction  of  a 
good  and  brave  Indian  fighter.  In  the  whole  series  of 
long  w^ars  with  the  Camanches,  Apaches,  Utes  and  Nava- 
jos,  he  bore  a  distinguished  part.  He  was  Lieutenant 
Colonel  under  General  Kit  Carson  during  the  Xavajo  wars 
of  1863,  4,  5  and  6,  which  resulted  in  the  surrender  to  a 
small  volunteer  force  of  11,000  of  the  supercilious  ma- 
rauders who  called  the  Mexicans  tneir  hcrdei's;  and  which 
resulted  m  the  forced  removal  of  their  tribe  from  the  San 
Juan  country  to  the  Basque  Bodondo  Military  Bes- 
ervation.  Many  daring  exploits  and  wild  stories  are  re- 
lated of  him;  all  of  which  are  more  or  less  actual  occur- 
rences. He  without  exception  is  the  bravest, most  reckless 
and  daring  man  in  the  country.  At  Santa  Fe,  on  one 
occasion  he  wrapped  a  serape  aroinul  his  lirad,  and  went 
into  a  store  on  tire,  and  brought  out  two  kegs  of  powder 
already  chai-red  and  blazing.  At  another  time,  with  a 
knife  in  his  right  hand,  he  killed  a  grizzly  bear  that  was 
chewing  his  left  arm.  Single  handed  he  fought  two  Capote 
Indians,  all  the  parties  being  armed  with  camp  knives,  and 
14 


210  OVER   THE  PLAINS  AND  uN  THE  MOUNTAINS 

killed  llioin  lioili  tliouii;h  liadly  wouiulod  hiniHi'li".  In  a. 
Ii«rht  with  the  Apaches  ut  his  raiu-he^  at  the  Ojodel  Muertc 
(that  IS,  the  Sprinu^  of  the  Dead),  liis  wife  and  children 
wei-e  l>i-utally  massacred  and  ho  besides  hel])les8  from 
wounds  in  both  of  his  lej^s,  had  his  body  so  riddled  with 
balls  and  so  cut  into  gashes  that  there  was  scarcely  room 
for  a  fresh  cut  or  another  bullet  hole,  lie  however  sur- 
vivetl,  })ut  ever  since  has  been  unha]>py.  Since  then  his 
only  pleasure  has  been  reven<i;e.  It  was  a  sad  day  for  the 
Apaches  when  they  killed  Old  Pfeifer's  family.  lie  now 
often  takes  lone  tri])s  into  their  country;  is  often  absent 
for  months,  ami  for  a  few  daj's  alter  his  return  seems, 
jdeased  and  satisHr<l.  In  a  few  weeks  he  is  off  ati^ain  with 
liis  horse  an<l  trusty  rifle  He  is  always  accompanied  in 
tlie  Apache  country  l»y  half  a  dozen  of  wolves.  Once  lie^ 
said  to  a  fi-iend,  "  they  like  me,  Ixicause  they  are  fond  of* 
ilead  Indian  ami  I  feed  them  well."  Kind  hearted  and' 
identic  as  he  is  siiid  to  be  in  social  life,  his  thirst  for  re- 
venge almost  m:ik-es  liim  the  personification  of  31urder,a» 
described  in  the  •'  Masiiue  of  Anarchy:" 

"  1  met  Murder  on  the  way, 

He  liad  a  mask  like  CasUereai^h, 

Very  snioolli  he  looked  yet  ^lim, 

Seven  blooil-houncls  followed  him  ; 

All  were  fat;  and  well  they  might 
■   Jio  in  admirahle  plight* 

For  one  by  one,  and  two  hy  twf), 

H(!  tossed  tlieni  human  liearts  to  cliew 

Whicli  from  his  wide  cloak  he  drew.  " 

The  main  incident  in  this  narrative  reminds  me  of  a 
romance  basi'd  ujjon  the  legends  of  the  earl}'  settlements 
f)f  Kentucicy,  Avritten  about  foi-ty  years  ago.  If  I  re- 
member coricctly  it  was  cntitlecl  '' Jibbenayinosah,  or 
Nick  of  the  Woods."  'fhe  author  was  l)r  Bird,  u popular 
romance  writer  of  that  day.  The  hero,  "  Nick  of  tlic  AVoods," 
was  a  <^uaker.  The  Indians  liaving  murdered  his  family, 
and  lie  being  alone  iti  the   world,  took  no  other  pleasure 


OVKa   TIIK  PLAINS  AND  ON  THE  MOUNTAINS.  lil  1 

than  in  seckiiii:^  and  takini^  reveiiijjo  ibr  the  invparable 
wrongs  lie  liad  sull'ered.  If  Uk;  romance  is  to  l)e  believed, 
his  thirst  for  veri<;i'a!ioe  nuist  have  been  inordinate  if  it 
was  not  Hatiated  Ity  the  number  of  his  foes  he  sent  to  tho 
"  happy  hmitinji;  grouuds." 

The  stirrinj^  and  thrillin<;  events  between  advancing 
civilization  and  retreating  barbarism,  are  of  so  recent  oc- 
currence that  they  have  not  passed  into  legends  and  tradi- 
tions, but  live  in  the  memory  and  recollection  of  the  present 
generation.  Here  yet  linger  the  most  cons]»icnous  actors 
in  them,  who  can  rcdate  them  and  vouch  for  their  truth, 
because  like  the  Roman  narrator  they  can  say:  "All 
which  I  saw,  and  part  of  which  I  -was."  Otlior  events, 
however,  havi-  left  their  record  here,  which  ])erhaps  nevei* 
will  bo  deciphered.  So  long  ago,  indeed,  have  they  oc- 
curred that  even  tradition  has  forgotten,  if  it  ever  knew, 
by  what  race  of  men  they  were  enacted  or  at  what  period 
they  occurred.  Ju  the  southwestern  ]»ortion  of  the  Terri- 
tory, many  ruins  of  indubitably  Aztec  towns  are  found 
Tradition  says,  that  when  Cortez  invaded  Mexico,  and  laid 
siege  to  its  capital,  the  noble  l)ut  unfortunate  Montezuma 
called  to  his  aid  all  the  worshippers  of  the  Sun  ;  and  that 
the  faithful  obeying  the  summons  of  their  monarch,  aban- 
doned these  their  cities,  and  rushed  to  the  rescue  to  fight 
the  battles  of  their  (iod  and  country.  They  went  forth  to 
battle,  but  never  returned ;  for  the  Aztec  army  melted 
away  before  the  ]>owerful  invadtM-,  like  snow  before  the 
face  of  their  Sun  God. 

There  too  are  those  enigmatical  ruins  of  tlie"  Seven 
cities  of  Cibola,"  or  rather  seven  human  hives;  buildings 
scattered  over  the  Plains  containing  from  ()00  to  000  rooms 
each,  and  rising  in  ten-raced  stories  to  the  height  of  foui- 
stories.  In  front  extends  a  semi-ciirular  court  yard  con- 
taining from  three  to  five  acres,  surrounded  by  a  stone 
wall.  The  hive  closes  by  a  straight  line  the  semi-circle, 
so  that  the  building  and  wall  represent  the  letter  IT  if 
closed  and  filled   to  half  its  height.     What  people  built 


212  OVER    TIIK  l>r,AlNS  AND  OX  THE  MOUNTANIS. 

these?  "What  were  their  modes  of  life,  manners  and  cus- 
toms!'' ]Iistory  and  tradition  liore  stand  mute,  attordiiii:; 
no  clu«»  to  unravel  the  threads  of  the  inexplicable  mystery. 
The  architectural  remains  of  Aztec,  Tesciican  and  other 
semi-civilized  Indians  of  Mexico^  Centi'al  and  ^South 
America,  tlion<;h  ilifferin<^  entirely'  both  in  de8i<>;n  and  exe- 
cution IVoni  that  of  the  Old  World,  has  no  semblance 
whatever  to  that  of  these  Seven  Cities.  They  must, 
therefore,  be  the  remains  not  only  of  a  distinct  race,  but 
of  a  distinct  and  different  order  of  civilization.  Of  what 
race  were  they,  and  Avhat  became  of  them  y  Were  they 
an  offshoot  representinij  a  more  advanced  stage  of  civili- 
zation of  the  Mound  Builders,  who,  in  the  central  part  of 
our  Continent,  vanished  l)efore  the  rude  hunter  tribes, 
leaving  no  memorial  of  their  existence  except  those  mys- 
terious mounds  in  the  Valley  of  the  Mississip])i  ? 

I  would  not  advise  novel  writing,  and  far  less  their 
reading;  Itut  if  such  inane  literature  as  modern  novels  is 
to  continue  to  be  the  almost  exclusive  staple  of  reading 
and  consequently  the  mental  pabahwi  of  both  young  and 
old,  then  I  say  the  legends  of  Colorado  will  be  found  a 
rich  ])lacer  for  treasures  of  a  new  sort.  The  change  will 
also  be  for  the  better;  for  writers  and  readers  will  in  de- 
gree leave  the  region  of  the  fabidous  and  to  that  extent 
will  enter  the  donuiin  of  actual  life.  The  romancer  will 
then  give  us  a  ft'w  facts  instead  of  all  fiction,  and  at  least 
a  tithe  of  an  idea  that  will  be  of  some  service  in  life,  in- 
stead of  nothing,  or  rather  worse  than  nothing  as  now. 

What  intemperance  is  doing  to  Man  physically,  modern 
novels  are  doing  to  hini  intellectually,  and  it  is  a  debate- 
able  question,  which  is  Ihr  sadder  sight,  a  man  injihysical, 
or  in  mental  ruin. 

Besides  the  ex))loits  of  the  Iinliaii  lighters,  there  are  the 
thrilling  adventures  of  the  old  tra))pers,  u  race  nowalmost 
extinct  in  the  niountains ;  a  i'(.'\v  having  died,  while 
the  many  have  fallen  viciims  lo  the  untameable  ferocity 
of  the  savages,     A  few   of  them  still   linger  here,  not  as 


OVER   THE  PLAINS  AND  ON  THE  MOUNTAINS.  213 

trappers  but  as  sedate  ranchmen  surrounded  by  their  lierds 
of  shec']t  and  cattle  and  droves  of  liorses.  To  succeed  in 
their  liazardous  atlventurcs,  some  of  these  liad  ingratiated 
themselves  Avitli  the  chief  of  some  ])o\verf»l  tribe;  had 
been  admitted  as  a  member  int(j  it;  learned  its  lan<^uage, 
afb^pted  its  iiabits  and  customs,  and  been  initiated  into  its 
i-eligious  mysteries.  Yet  all  this  was  no  avail,  for  it  de- 
pended only  on  what  mood  the  Indian  was  in  wliether  life 
was  safe.  Many  of  these  after  a  residence  of  thirty  years 
amongst  the  Indians  have  been  butchered  in  cold  blood 
without  a  cause.  Fremont  found  a  Sioux  chief  and  two 
or  three  braves,  down  on  the  Republican  F(jrk,  nearly 
perished  and  surrounded  by  Pawnees,  by  whom  they  had 
been  defeated.  lie  supplied  their  wants,  protected  them 
and  took  them  in  safety  to  their  home  in  the  mountains. 
In  less  than  two  days  after  they  left  his  camji,  they  mur- 
dered in  cold  blood  an  old  tra])])er  who  had  lived  amongst 
them  thirty-tive  j-ears  and  had  been  adopted  into  their 
tribe.  Such  is  the  nature  of  the  noble  Red  man  of  our 
morbid  sentimentalists! 

I  have  learned  from  these  men,  that  the  Indians  have 
their  nursery  tales  as  well  as  we,  and  that  they  have  tra- 
ditions and  legends  of  giants  in  older  times  who  performed 
feats  of  strength  and  deeds  of  valor  equal  to  that  of  the 
Greek  Hercules. 

Legends  of  Indian  exploits  long  anterior  to  the  advent 
of  the  white  man  are  also  numerous.  There  is  scarcely  a 
brook,  canyon  or  peak,  of  which  some  Indian  tale  is  not 
related,  derived  from  the  Indians  themselves  by  the  daring 
trappers  wlio  were  domiciled  amongst  them.  One  of 
these  only  I  will  relate,  While  at  Boulder,  I  expressed 
mv  admiration  of  the  picturesque  and  singularly  turretted 
mountain  peak,  just  south  of  the  canyon,  but  which  I  regret 
is  so  ]>oorh'  represented  in  our  engraving  as  not  to  show 
the  turrets  at  all ;  the  most  picturesque  and  striking  fea- 
ture of  the  mountain,  and  I  expressed  a  regret  that  some 
stirring  Indian  tale  of  heroic  deeds  or  tragic  occurrence 


214  OVER   THE  PLAINS  AND  OX  TIIK  MOUNTAINS. 

■was  not  ;isso('iiite<l  -willi  it,  to  sproiul  its  numo  and  fome 
abroii'l  ovtM'  I'vi'j-y  hind.  There  is,  was  the  reply.  The 
Indians  say  t!iat  a  thousand  moons  betore  tliey  ever  saw  a 
white  mail's  l.ice,  ami  when  millions  of  hntl'alo  t(razod 
ujxm  th«^  IMaiiis  watered  by  the  .South  lMalt<'.  a  party  of 
Utes  ti-om  llifir  look-out  on  the  mountains  had  spied  what. 
the\'  suppose<l  to  be  a  small  band  ot'  Arapalioes  on  the 
Plains.  Thi-y  immediately  went  <lown  and  at  tacked  tliem  ; 
but  •the  Ai-apahoes  were  stroui^er  than  they  suspcetod  and 
not  only  repulsed  their  assaihijits  but  pursued  them  so 
closely  to  the  mountains  tliat  the  Utes  sou<;lit  safety  upon 
that  ]>eak.  Here  they  <lefied  theii-  ]>ursuers  and  kept 
them  at  ba}\  The  lattei"  trit'(l  to  take  the  hei<>;ht.s  by 
storm;  but  tlii'ir  enemies  rolled  down  hu<:;e  stones  upon 
theJii  ami  drove  them  ba<k  every  time  they  attempted  it. 
They  iheret'ore  beleap;ui-e(l  them  and  starved  the  whole 
party  to  death.  Jt  is  saiil  that  evoi- since,  the  I'tes  have 
a  superstitious  dread  of  that  ])iniia(led  mountain. 

If  the  tales  of  a  wild  huiit<*r's  life  should  be  moi-e  de- 
sirable sta|d<>  for  a  i-mnance,  there  is  no  hick  of  them  also, 
Avhethei"  ot'  those  who  long  since  "have  ti'one  over  the 
Divide,"  oi- of  those  who  are  "  still  on  tin- Jl;in<^e."  The 
recital  of  these  will  melt  the  heart  into  ])ity,  or  treeze  tlie 
blood  Avith  horror.  \Vhile  we  were  in  the  tet-ritory  a  min- 
er eanie  ovei-  the  Snowy  Haiii^e,  from  MiddU".  Park,  with 
the  news  tliat  "  Mountain  .Tim" — a  charactei*  a\  horn  they 
all  knew,  had  a  tei-riiile  tii;lil  \\ith  a  gri/./ly  Iteai"  in  the 
Park,  and  was  alnio<l  '•chawed  up"  before  he  sueoooded  in 
killinu' the  bear  with  a  knite.  lie  said  that  Jim  had  hi. s 
right  eyelmiw  bitt.-n  otf.  his  lett  arm  liltei-ally  chawed  uj), 
liis  ribs,  and  one  of  his  thigh  bones  laid  ban;  by  his 
ierocious  assailant  ;  and  though  victorious  in  the  fight,  he 
would  have  perisheil  had  not  some  ]»rospectors  and  tourists 
discoviTCfl  him  .and  kindly  tak<'n  care  of  him.  Since  tlien 
I  have  received  a  ])rivate  letter  from  ("enti-al.  from  which 
the  following  is  an  extract: 

"f  saw  Mountain   .lim,  in  town    last  Thnrsdav.  who  was 


■•>!  -. 


OVER    TliK  PLAINS  AND  ON  TUK  MOUNTAINS.  2 1' 

80  terribly  manp;lo(l  by  a,  bear  in  Mifldlc  Park  aboiii  ilio 
time  you  were  liere.  ITis  left  arm  is  yet  in  a  sling,  and  is 
entirely  powerless.  His  right  eye  is  still  bandaged,  the 
scars  on  his  fjx'C'e  show  how  terriblj'  it  was  lacerated;  and 
he  walks  with  difificulty.  lie  is  on  his  way  to  Estes'  Park  -^ 
where  he  has  a  ranche  and  considerable  stock.  lie  says 
he  has  heard  that  tourists  are  riding  and  tlriving  through 
his  ranche  and  leaving  the  gates  open,  and  that,  his  cattle 
are  scattering.  He  has  a  man  with  him  lo  collect  his 
cattle  and  take  care  of  them.  With  a  moist  eye  he  speaks 
with  gratitude  of  those  who  befriended  him  in  his  kite 
misfortune,  both  gentlemen  and  ladies.  "Why,"  says  he, 
-**Idid  not  know  I  had  so  many  friends  before.  They 
took  care  of  mo  as  though  I  were  a  ]>i-iiice." 

Colorado  previous  to  the  advent  of  the  white  man  was  the 
battle-tield  where  all  the  neighboring  tribes  wei-e  con- 
stantly contending  for  su])remacy  ;  and  where  the  victors  of 
the  fight  to-day,  were  beaten  and  driven  out  by  the  victors 
of  to-morrow.  The  mountain  streams  whose  issues  swell 
the  Platte  and  the  Arkansas,  water  a  plain  covered  with 
luscious  grasses,  and  hence  the  natural  pasture  land  of  the 
buffalo,  who  in  millions  roamed  over  it  and  occupied  it 
the  whole  year.  The  possession  of  the  Plains  of  Colorado, 
Avas  therefore  the  possession  of  the  immense  herds  of 
i)uffjilo  that  cover  it.  Narrowed  down,  it  was  a  (piestion 
of  food  and  raiment,  for  the  primitive  savages  of  this 
recfion  clothed  themselves  in  liutlalo  robes.  In  these  con- 
flicts  the  hostile  parties  taxed  their  utmost  resources,  both 
physically  and  mentally,  to  overcome,  ex])el  and  it  neces- 
sary to  extirpate  their  adversaries.  Art,  stratagem  and 
<;unning  wei'c  the  weapons  employed,  wielded  by  bold- 
ness, bravery,  resolution,  recklessness  and  desperation. 
Tragic  events  of  blood  an<l  cruelty  were  enacted,  that 
fiends  might  imitate  but  could  not  excel.  Xo  tribe,  lu.w- 
ever,  attained  at  any  time  more  than  a  temporary  posses- 
sion of  the  coveted  land..     Such  was  the  position  of  things 


216      OVKR  THE  PL.A.rNS  AND  ON  THE  MOUNT  \T\S. 

r 

when  the  white  man,  a  new  claimanl,  appeared  upon  the 
sta<xe. 

The  old  tfnu;cdies  with  aggravated  horrors  Avere  nowre- 
vived;  l>e(:iuse  hero  was  the  coninion  enemy  of  the  red 
man.     Coalitions  and  confederations  of  the  formerly  hos- 
tile trihes  wei-e  made  not  only  to  cheek  his  advance,  but 
to  expel  him  from  the  country;  but  the   contest  was  un- 
equal this  time.     Xeither  physically  nor  mentally  is  the 
savage  able  to  cope  Avith  the  civilized  man.     As  the  rising* 
day  drives  back  the  shades  of  night,   so  the  wild  Indian 
flees  toM'ards  the  setting  sun  from  the  irresistible  advance- 
of  the  civilized  and  enlightened  man.     The  untutored  sav- 
age ma}'-  return  to  the  attack,  and  make  renewed  efforts  to- 
avoid  his  late,  but  he  is  doomed.     He  may  even  be  inspir- 
ed to  desperation  hy  despaii*,  but  brute  force  cannot  con- 
tend   Riiccessfully  against  intellectual  power.     The  ordi- 
nance of  Xatiiro  has  so  ordained  it.     History  does  not  re- 
cord an  instance  where  barbarous  and  civilized  and  en- 
lightened nations  have  dwelt  side  by  side   in   amity  and 
friendship.     The  contrasts  are  too  great  and  the  antagon- 
ism too  irreconcilable  between  civilization  and  barbarism,, 
so  that  collisions  are   inevitable.     Civilization  may  not 
seek,  3'ea,  may  do  all  that  is  possible  to  avoid  such  f-ollis- 
ions,  but  they  will  bo  forced  upon  it  by  barbarism.     When 
it  comes  to  blows,  victory  in  the  end  nnist  pei-ch  on   the 
banner  that  is  the  representative  of  the  highest  intellectual 
culture.     !?sot  only  is  thic  true  between  civilized  and  bar- 
barous nations,  but  it  is  likewise  necessarily  true  between 
nations  of  relatively  different  degrees  of  civilization.     All 
the  recent  great  wars  bear  evidence  to  the  truth  of  this 
assertion;  conspicuously  amongst  wliidi   may  be  named 
the  late  war  between  France  and  Gei-many.     The  French- 
num   who  wrote  from  the  prison  camj)    in  the   German 
lines,  these  memorable   words,   'Mhcir   common    soldiers 
know  more  tl»an  our  offir;ers"  stated  both  the  cause  and 
the  philosoph}'  of  the  result. 

Our  Indian  troubles  are  to  be  deplored.  l»ii(  in  the  very 


OVER   THE  I'LAKWS  AND  ON  THE  MOUNTAIN'S.  217 

nature  of  tliin<j!;3  Ihey  are  unavoidable.  Philanthropists, 
with  laudable  ertbi'ts,  arc  endeavoring  to  avoid  them,  Init 
they  have  mistaken  the  means.  J\Ioral  suasion  used  "vvith 
the  Indian,  and  homilies  read  to  the  whites  Avill  never  do 
it.  The  ftrst  step  to  save  tlu;  Indian  ]-aee  from  extinction 
is  to  teach  it  fear  and  the  art  of  behaving  itself.  But  how- 
ls this  to  be  effected  ?  liy  moral  suasion  ?  The  Indian 
knows  nothing  and  cares  less  about  moi-al  influences.  All 
the  moral  suasion  to  do  hiinany  good  is  that  which  is  in- 
spired by  fear.  Since  ho  does  not  know  that  it  is  his  duty 
to  behave  himselti  let  him  know  that  \\g  mnst  do  it ;  and 
that  if  he  does  not  do  it,  that  sure  and  swift  ]iunishment 
will  overtake  him  for  his  crimes.  Bring  iiim  under  the 
wholesome  restraint  of  fear,  and  hold  him  there  while  j'ou 
cultivate  his  moral  nature.  That  accomplished,  you  may 
extend  his  lesson  to  civilization  in  general,  and  teach  him 
the  duty,  yea,  the  absolute  necessity  of  snp})lying  his  own 
wants  by  phj'sical  labor.  Then  intellectual  training  and 
social  elevation  will  naturally  follow. 

No  doubt  in  man}'"  of  our  border  troubles,  the  baser 
class  of  whites  are  the  first  aggressors,  and  deserve  not 
only  censure  but  severe  punishment.  But  it  is  a  squeam- 
ish sentamentalism  in  eveiy  instance,  and  upon  all  occa- 
sions, to  lay  the  fault  at  the  door  of  the  whites.  The  hon- 
orable, high  minded,  noble  red  man  has  no  existence  in 
Nature.  He  is  not  a  real,  but  an  idi-al  character.  And 
worse  than  that,  the  ideal  is  the  worst  possible  caricature 
of  the  reality,  as  all  ought  to  know  who  have  ever  come 
in  contact  with  the  original.  In  judging  of  the  conduct  of 
remote  settlements  towards  the  Indian,  we  ought  to  think 
of  him  as  he  is,  not  as  we  imagine  him  to  be;  and  not  jus^ 
tify  him  while  me  mete  out  indiscriminate  censure  against 
our  own  race.  Especially  ought  we  to  be  chary  in  our 
)ud<'ment  when  we  find  whole  communities  affected  by 
his  mis-conduct,  rising  as  one  man  and  exi)elling  him  from 
the  land. 

I  have  had  ample  opportunities  upon   the    Indiiin   fron- 


218  OVKR   THE  PLAINS  AND  ON  THE  MOUNTAINS 

tier  for  observation  and  forming  an  unbiased  opinion  on 
the  euuses  of  the  disturbed  relations  between  tbe  whites 
and  Indians.  I  lived  eleven  3'ears,  (  eight  in  Alabama  and 
three  in  Iowa)  in  the  immediate  vieinity  of  large  bodies 
of  Indians  in  daily  contact  and  intercourse  with  the 
whites,  free  to  come  into  the  settlements  and  to  go  whither 
they  i)lcased  and  when  they]dcased.  It  istrue  the(!hicka- 
saws  and  Chocktaws  of  tlie  South  wen;  in  a  rudimentary 
civilization  oi' 11  very  low  grade;  but  so  were  not  the 
Sauks  and  Foxes  of  Iowa,  and  these  moreover  had  only 
some  six  j-ears  before  been  severel}^  punished  in  the  Black 
Hawk  War;  yet  in  all  that  time,  in  neither  locality  was 
there  any  collision  l)etween  the  two  races,  nor  even  a 
<'ause  for  any.  There  was  a  most  cordial  feeling  of  good 
will,  trust  and  contidenee  between  the  parties;  \Uo.  whites 
regarded  them  as  a  weak  and  helpless  ])C0ple,  and  theri'- 
fore  entitled  to  kindness,  generosity  and  protection.  Any 
one  who  wouM  have  injured  a  simple  minded  Indian, 
would  have  inciin'cd  as  much  odium  as  if  h(?  luid  struck  a 
woman,  •)r  7ualtreated  a,  child.  Thus  even  upon  the  rude 
frontier,  the  innate  im])ulse  of  the  strong  to  ]»rotect  the 
wc^ak  and  defenseless,  maniiesis  itself  as  sli'ongly  and  sig- 
nallv  as  it  ever  docs  anvwh(M-e.  When  i  therefore  hear 
the  frontier  settlers  accu.sed  as  lawless  aggre.ssors,  exercis- 
ing wanton  cruelty  and  perjx-trating  merciless  and  fiend- 
ish butcheries  on  ]>eaceabK!  and  unollemiing  Indians,  I 
cannot  believe  it  ;  because  it  is  contrary  I0  all  experience 
and  observatiijii.  It  is  an  impossil)ility  in  the  very  nature 
ofthinirs.  Frontier  men  in-e  daring;  nuMi  of  decision,  en- 
<":rgv,  vim  and  ])lu('k  ;  bill  tliey  are  neither  outlaws  nor  sav- 
ii<»-es.  TIh'V  are,  in  iiict,  the  vei'v  kind  of  men  in  whir-h 
the  manly  and  heroic  virtues,  of  which  ])rotection  to  the 
weak  aii<l  dclencelcss  is  one,  shine  the  brightest,  ('ow- 
ards  could  be  iruiltv  of  such  wanlon  cruelties,  but  brave 
men  never. 

It  is,  however,  undeniable  that  violence  and   bloo<lshed 
juark    the    extension    and    stain    the    progress    of  settle- 


OVKK  TUB  PLAINS  AND  ON  THE  MOUNTAl.N.-.,     2,1*3 

ments  now  as  tlioy  did  in  tlic  days  of  the  Pilcjrinis.  ilow 
can  they  he  accounted  tori'  V  ery  easily.  .Sharpcrn  trail- 
ing with  them  shaincfully  .swindU'  them.  Oiithiws  who  no 
longer  tind  it  safe  to  ]>\y  their  i-ohhi'ries  and  thefts 
amongst  M'hites,  phinder  aii<l  oftentimes  miwdcr  them. 
These  ar(^  about  tlie  only  ottenees  that  are  chargeable  to 
the  whites;  and  for  which  there  is  a  remedy,  if  the  Indian 
<'Ould  only  understand  that  the  guilty  alone  must  be  held 
responsible  for  tlicir  crimes.  The  intrusion  oi  the  whites 
upon  the  Public  J)omain  to  which  the  Indian  title  has  not 
been  extinguished,  is  a  source  of  irritation,  l)ut  no  crime. 
It  is  against  the  ordinance  of  Nature  that  myriads  of 
square  miles  of  rich  and  arable  lands  should  be  doomed  to 
barrenness,  and  lie  vacant  merely  to  furnish  a  hunting 
ground  to  a  few  vagabond  savages.  The  white  man  so 
recards  it,  and  t-onceives  he  is  obeying  the  commands  and 
executing  the  decrees  of  the  Creator  when  lie  enters  upt)n 
and  occupies  it.  As  these  intrusions  cannot  lie  prevented, 
and  should  not  if  they  could,  the  Government  should 
take  early  steps  to  prevent  occasions  for  these  conflicts  by 
extinguishing  tlie  Indian  title. 

On  the  other  liand  the  causes  of  Indian  wars  originate 
with  the  Indians  themselves.  Their  native  ferocity,  which 
springs  from  regarding  all  men  not  belonging  to  their 
tribe  as  deadly  enemies j  their  moral  obtusoness  wliich 
prevents  them  from  discriminating  between  meuni  and 
tuinn  until  taught  by  fear;  their  inveterate  liourbonism 
which  never  forgets  anything,  nor  learns  anything,  and 
which  im])els  them,  however  frequently  van<piished,  tore- 
new  per})etual!y  the  confii(;t  with  the  inevitable;  tlu^se 
are  the  true  soui-ces  from  which  nearly,  if  not  quite,  all 
our  Indian  trouldes  spring,  as  the  history  of  American 
settlement  everywhere  shows.  They  are  the  causes  in 
operation  now  in  Texas,  New  .Mexico,  Arizona.  Colorado, 
Montana  and  all  the  States  and  Territories  on  the  Plains, 
the  Mountains  and  on  the  Pacitic  Coast ;  and  to  lay  the 
entire  blame  nj)on  the  whites,  is  both  gratuitous  anddisin- 


220  OVER   THE  PLAINS  AND  ON  THE  MOUNTAINS. 

genuous,  \vl\cn  the  conflict,  aggruA^atod  by  :i  long  series  or 
wrot)gs,  outrages  and  barbarities,  does  come,  we  must 
make  some  allowances  for  the  exasperation  of  feeling 
manifested,  and  the  almost  inappeasabic  resentments  these 
outrages  have  ])r<)voked.  AVe  may  regret  the  extent  and 
severity  of  the  chastisement  inflicted;  but  until  human 
nature,  as  it  always  has  been  and  ever  will  be,  is  changed, 
it  never  can  be  otherwise.  There  is  no  remedy,  except 
that  the  savage  man  must  learn  the  severe  lesson  which 
the  civilized  man  has  even  yet  so  imjKjrfectly  learned  by 
sad  but  wholesome  experience,  that  "  the}''  that  sow  tlia 
wind  must  reap  the  -whirlwind.  " 


OVEll  THK  PLAINS  ANU  ON  THK  MOUNTAINS.  221 


CHAPTER  X^^IT. 

Any  sketch  of  Colorado  nnd  her  natural  resources  is 
imperfect  that  docs  not  include  her  mines  and  mining 
industry.  Disastrous  as  may  have  been  enterprizes  un- 
<lertiiken  to  develop  her  mines  of  gold  a«d  silver,  and  sad 
tis  ma}'  have  been  the  expei'ienoe  of  those  that  have  risked 
their  money  in  that  enterprise;  yet  the  fact  remains  un- 
deniable that  her  mountains  arc  rich  in  the  precious  met- 
als; and  that  immense  and  inexhaustible  stores  of  gold 
and  silver  only  abide  the  time  w^ien  ca])ital  will  furnish 
the  means,  labor  the  skill,  and  Science  the  knowledge  to 
treat  the  6res  successfully  and  make  them  surrender  their 
rich  treasures. 

HoAvever  rich  wo  deem  her  mineral  resources,  it  is 
undeniable  that  at  present  the  character  of  her  mines  is 
under  a  cloud,  and  stocks  in  thoni  at  a  heavy  discount.  B}- 
some  the  mines  are  regarded  as  humbugs,  by  others  as 
deficient  in  richness;  and  by  others,  who  admit  their 
richness,  as  worthless  because  of  the  refractoriness  of  their 
ores. 

There  are  causes  for  all  this  diversity  of  opinion;  but 
they  are  so  numerous  that  an  attempt  at  their  enumeration 
Avere  futile.  The  great  and  controlling  cause  was  and  is, 
not  the  low  grade  of  the  ores,  but  their  character.  The 
ores  are  richer  than  the  ores  of  California  and  Xevada,  as 
their  analyses  show ;  but  their  character  is  such  that  under 
the  stamp-mill  (the  processes  that  in  California  and  Nevada 
save  from  85  to  9')  per  cent,  of  the  gold  or  silver  in  the 
ore),  they  Avill  not  yield  on  an  average  more  than  30  per 
cent,  of  the  precious  metals,  containefl  in  them.  In  many 
cases,  ores  that  by  smelting  will  yield  froni  §200  to  8300 


222  OVF.R  THE  PLAINS   AND  ON  THE  MOUNTAINS. 

per  Ion,  yield  nothint;  undor  the  stainp-inill.     In  Califor- 
nia the  ores  contain  the  metals  I'roo,  orelseare  carbonates; 
in  Colorado  they  aro  sulphurets.     Where  the  metal  is  free, 
f>r  where  its  composition  is  that  of  a  carbonate,  it  is  sub- 
missive to  tbo  influence  of  mercury   and  forms  an  amal- 
gam with  it ;  but  when  it  is  a  sulphuret,  it  is  indifferent  to 
the  intlucnce  of  mercury,  and  hence  cannot  be  saved  by 
what  is  called  theamalLcamation  process.     Xow  the  stamp- 
mill  process  is  the  simplest  and  least  expensive  process  of 
treatincj  ores  known.     With  it  the  treatment  does  not  cost 
on  an  avera<^e  more  than  live  dollars  per  ton.     Hence  it  is 
par  excellence  the  ])rocess  for  treating  ores  of  low  grade. 
This  is  the  secret  why  the  Comstock  mine,  in  Xevada,  has 
been  so  protital)lc  and  eni-iched  all  concerned  in  mining 
it,  and  trcatin^i;  its  ores.     Thou<:;h,  as  already  stated,  its 
ores  have  not  averagetj,  more  than  twent3'-tive  dollars  per- 
ton,  (a  quality  of  ore  that  would  be  worthless  in  Colo- 
i-ado),  yet  as  it  was  all  "  mill  ore,"  three-fifths  of  its  yield 
was  profit.     I  have  been  assured,  by  a  gentleman  who  had 
an  interest  in  a  claim  on  it  and  formerly  was  engaged  in 
working  it,  that  the  cost  of  mining  and  mill  treatment 
of  that  ore  in  no  case  exceeded  ten  dollars  per  ton.     There 
are  22  claims  on  the  Comstock  lode;  the  bullion  product 
of  all  these  claims  is  over  8200,000,000.     Up  to  the  ycar- 
1«69,  from  official  tables,  1  learn  that  it  was  S137,;382,000.. 
Tt  was  very  natural  that  the  earlier  miners  in  Colorado,, 
who  were  familiar  with  the  successful  modes  of  ti-eating 
the  Califorin'a  and  Xevada  ores,  should  form  high  expecta- 
tions of  the  products   of  the    richer   lodes  of  Colorado;. 
and  that  lhey  should  be  sadly  disappointed  at  the  results 
obtained   in  working   them,     Xay,  that  they  should    be 
struck    with    consternation    and    dismay   at   the   results. 
What  was  the  more   inexplicable  to  them,  and  added  to 
their   astonishment,    was    that    while    the    disintegrated 
quartz  on  the  surface  lasted,  the  results  were  satisfactory, 
and  as  good  as  could   be  expected   fi-om    ores  of  so  low/ 


OVKR  THK  ]*r,MNS    AND  ON  Til  K  .M<  ti;N TAINS.  223^ 

p^ailo.  Hut  mIumi  the  jtyritcs  uml  siil])liurcts  *  wero 
readied  iit  «;ivjiler  depths,  the  iiu-tallui-^ists,  who  knew 
nothint;  except  wliat  cxperieneo  had  tau<;lit  them  in  the 
arastras  and  .stanij)-niill.s  of  Cah'fornia,  became  noii])lu88od. 
Here  "vvas  Homcthing  they  had  not  dreamed  of  in  their 
philoHophy.  The  more  they  thoui^lit  about  it,  tiie  darker 
and  more  incom])rehenHible  it  became;  and  finally  they 
had  to  confess  tliat  the}-  wero  at  their  wiis' end.  The,  to 
them,  unknown  character  of  the  ores,  was  the  first  and  the 
most  sci'ious  cause  of  iiiilurc  in  dodo  minini^  in  Colorado, 
To  be  Hiii-e  they  were  not  a  new  kind  of  ore;  for  they 
constituted  almost  exclusively  the  kind  known  from  time 
immemorial  ;  and  successful  methods  of  reducin<>^  them 
were  e(|ually  well  known  to  nietallur<;ists;  but  both  were 
new  to  the  stamp-mill  men  of  California  and  (Colorado. 

The  eailier  investments  were  o;enerally  made  in  good 
faith,  both  by  the  miners  and  by  capitalists.  That  they 
were  so,  it  is  sutHcient  to  state,  that  men  who  had  acquired! 
a  competency  by  saving  their  hard  earnings  amid  dangers 
and  privations,  in  tho  earlier  days  of  California  mining,, 
invested  their  all  in  lodes  and  stamp-mills  in  the  moun- 
tains of  Colorado.  Many  capitalists  mIio  had  been  suc- 
cessful in  mining  enterprises  in  California,  also  eagerl}- 
invested  in  lodes  that  were  richer  than  thoso  of  California,, 
as  shown  ])V  analyses  made  by  competent  metallur<Tists^ 
These  men  knew  nothing,  either  by  experience,  or  by 
theory,  of  the  character  of  ores,  and  of  their  method  of 
treatment.  The  natural  assumption  was  that  they  were 
of  the  same  character  as  thoso  of  California,  and  hence  of 
course  would  yield  up  their  treasures  by  the  same  process. 
Consequently,  the  inferen(!e  was  that  nie  same  kind  of 
machinery  had  to  be  ])rovided  for,  and  the  same  jnethods 
to  be  pursued  here  as  there.  When,  therefore,  both  failed 
to  produce  the  desired  result,  the  presidents  or  agents  of 

*  The  distinction  between  pyritos  and  sulphnrot-*  is  morcly  nominal. 
Pyriteje  are  sulphvirots  of  iron,  whereas  combinations  of  sulphur  and 
other  metals  are  called  snlphureta  and  not  nyntes.  Pyrites,  however,, 
may  have  besides  iron,  the  s-ulphurcts  of  otlier  metals. 


"224  OVER   THE  PLAINS  AND  ON  THE  MOUNTAINS. 

mining  ooni])anios  thought  llie  fault  hiy  in  tlie  incom- 
petoncy  of  the  li>ronuiu  of  tho  stjimp-inill.  lie  was  dis- 
charged and  anothei-  oniphiyod,  but  with  no  better  suc- 
cess. Still  tho  o])inion  Avas  that  if  an  expert  coidd  be 
obtained,  the  results  would  be  satisliictory,  so  he  was  also 
discharged;  but  matters  gi-i'W  from  bad  to  worse,  until  a 
consternation  and  ]>aiiic  ensued  amongst  tho  stockholders. 
There  were  7»o  dividends  declaring;  yea  worse,  things 
had  come  to  that  point  that  the  concern  did  not  begin  to 
}»ay  running  expenses.  Tins  prepared  the  way  for  the 
supervention  of  the  most  di.sastrous  fate  that  ever  fell 
upon  any  undertaking. 

In  the  great  extremity  of  the  stockholders,  light  broke 
fortli  in  a  dark  place.  This,  however,  was  a  false  light; 
being  no  more  or  less  than  a  new  pi-ocess,  a  pretended 
genius  claimed  to  have  discovered;  and  claimed  that  the 
"refractory  ores"  yielded  ready  obedience  to  it.  Claimed, 
did  I  say  y  No,  tliat  was  }iot  the  woivl.  Claimed  would 
have  left  the  matter  in  doubt  until  it  were  proven  by 
experiment.  Xo,  it  was  not  clahiied  that  tho  new  process 
would  do  certain  things,  but  it  was  boldl}-  asserted  that  it 
did  do  them;  and  to  prove  it,  the  testimony  of  easy  good 
iiatured  and  complaisant  newspaper  reporters  and  a  few 
credulous  and  ignorant  spectators,  was  adduce^,  certifying 
to  the  statement  that  they  were  present  at  an  experiment 
con<lucted  by  tho  interested  j»arty,  and  saw  everything 
performed  satisfactoril}'  as  claimed  by  the  patent.  Hope 
revived  in  the  desponding  hearts  of  the  stockholders,  and 
thev  believed,  because  '^  the  wish  was  father  to  tho 
thought,"  that  the  intricate  ])roblcm  of  making  refractory 
ores  tractable  had  received  a  final  solution.  Prudence 
would  have  suggested,  that  before  tho  costly  machinery 
l>o  ])rocnrcd,  that  tlx'  matter  be  examined  by  a  competent 
committee  of  disintertisted  experts,  and  that  a  trial  experi- 
ment to  verify  both  tho  theory  and  process  be  made  by 
themselves,  or  under  their  suj)crvision.  But  incrcdulit}' 
was  laughed  to  scorn  under  the  joy  and  excitement  of  the 


OVKR   THE  PLAINS  AND  ON  THE  MOUNTAINS.  225 

moment;  and  the  manipnlntioiis  and  statoments  <>f  inter- 
ested parties  "wcro  received  and  acc'e})ted  as  true  without 
qxicstiun  or  any  apparent  misgiving  as  to  their  correctness. 
Then  commenced  that  disastrous  new  process  mania, 
lasting  for  three  years,  from  1804  to  1SG7,  by  -which 
milli(jnsof  capital  were  sunlc,  the  character  of  the  mines 
damaged,  and  the  fair  fiimo  of  the  territory  aspersed  and 
almost  ruined. 

AVhen  the  stamp-mills  failed  in  working  ])yrites  and 
sul])hurets  known  to  be  rich,  then  the  conclusion  becaine 
general  that  the  ores  must  be  roasted;  that  is,  the8ulj)hui- 
burnt  out  of  them  and  the  baser  metals  calcined,  before 
the  gold  and  silver  could  be  amalgamated.  Immediately 
there  appeared  any  number  of  processes  for  desulphuri- 
zation  of  the  ores  with  expensive  machinery.  Of  these 
desulphurizing  processes  many  were  disastrous,  some 
sheer  humbugs,  and  even  the  best  partial  failures.  While 
other  new  processes  too  numerous  to  mention  were  all 
miserable  failures  without  any  redeeming  qualities.  They 
were  not  based  upon  cither  scientific  or  melallurgic  prin- 
ciples; and  even  if  they  had  been,  were  soexj)ensive  that 
the}'-  could  not  bo  economically  applied.  The  only 
valuable  legacy  these  processes  left,  was  a  largo  amount 
of  wholesome  experience,  and  some  more  or  less  useful 
second-hand  machinery  which  now  is  utilized  for  more 
rational  purposes. 

Upon  Avhose  shoulders  the  blame  of  these  failures 
should  full,  it  is  hard  to  determine.  One  thing  is  certain, 
the  fault  was  not  and  is  not  in  the  mines.  Perhaps  the  l)lamo 
is  about  equally  divided  between  opei-ators  and  jobbei's, 
between  so-called  scientific  men,  without  practical  expe- 
rience and  often  blest  Avith  only  a  modicum  of  common 
sense,  and  blundering  practical  men  without  science;  hon- 
est men  without  cajmcity,  and  smart  men  without  Imnesly. 
That  the  disaster  was  wide  spread  and  ruinous,  there  is 
painful  evidence  everywhere.  Crumbling  walls  and  tot- 
tering chimneys  of  <' played  out,"  reductioii  works.  Pon- 
15 


226  OVER    THK  PLAINS  AND  ON  TlIK  MOUNTAINS. 

doroxis,  broken,  and  rusti-d  nuuhiiiorv  and  cin-ious  nliaped 
lurnaoes,  whoso  fires  have  been  extini^uislied  for  yoars, 
meet  the  cyo  everywhere  and  chill  the  liearts  of  capi- 
talists anxious  to  invest  in  the  rich  niines  of  these  moun- 
tains. The  fact  that  niiiung  has  .survived  these  terrible 
trials  and  disasters  is  proof  of  its  inherent  vitality  in 
Colorado,  and  a  pledge  of  its  future  ])r()s])erity. 

For  the  four  years,  coniinencing  with  l^^BO,  the  statistics 
bhow  that  over  §80,000,000  of  ii;old  Avas  shipped  from 
('dorado,  while  it  is  well  known  that  immense  sumswerc' 
carried  away  by  individuals.  In  other  words,  the  yield 
of  gold  by  the  mines  of  Colorado  was  upwards  of  S7,500,- 
000  anntuilly.  But  as  soon  as  the  experiments  Avith  the 
rtew  ])roces:^es  commeiu-ed.  the  quantity  began  to  diminish,, 
i-eaching  its  minintum  in  iStiT  Avhen  it  was  less  than  §1,800,- 
(•OU.  The  new  jjrocesses  had  now  run  their  career  and  wcro 
generally  abandoned  us  worthless,  or  if  not  worthless,  too 
expensive  for  economical  application.  Men  now  returned 
to  the  stamjt-niilis  ami  altiioiigh  these  generally  Avasted. 
from  one-half  to  two-thirds  of  the  ])recious  metals  and  all 
of  the  cop]jer  and  lead,  yet  they  aiforded  a  living  ])rofit. 
The  old  ai)d  tried  i>roccsses  of  German}'  of  dressing  and 
sn^clting  the  ores,  improved  by  American  ingenuity,  Avere 
gradually  introduced.  Since  then  the  production  of  the 
mines  has  gradually  increased  from  year  to  year.  In 
1870  it  reached  about  S;'),000,000  as  the  shipments  show,, 
and  the  ])re.sent  year  (1871;  it  Avill  nearly,  if  not  (piite, 
reach  80,000,000. 

Though  (^hhjrination  and  smelling  are  jtei-fect  as  metal- 
lurgical processes,  yet  they  are  too  ex])ensive  to  be 
economically  applied  to  u  lai-go  class  of  ores.  The 
uninitiated  have  no  means  of  telling  Avhat  the  average 
cost  is  of  treating  a  ton  of  ore  by  these  combined  pro- 
cesses. ]iut  as  the  owners  of  reduction  Avorks  chai-ged  mi- 
ners from  SoO  to  835  ])er  ton,  the  cost  can  certainly  not  be 
more  than  82o,  and  may  be  less  tha>i  SI"). 

However,  the  btamp-mill  and  the  amalgamation  jtrocese. 


OVER   THE  PLAINS  AND  ON  THE  MOUNTAINS.  227 

are  the  only  moans  yet  known  cheap  enougli  U)  treat  ores 
of  a  low  grade,  Kincc  the  actual  cost  in  no  cusc  exceeds $5 
per  ton.  AVith  ores  containing  the  precious  metals  free, 
that  is,  uncombined  with  sulphurets  of  other  metiils,  they 
will  save  from  80  to  90  per  cent,  of  the  metal.  ]iut  with 
pyrites,  and  suliihurets,  and  especially  Avhen  the  particles 
are  indelinitely  small,  the  mill  will  not  save  more  than 
from  30  to  50  per  cent.  Unless  the  expenses  for  reducing 
ores  by  chlorination  and  smelting  are  much  less  than  inter- 
ested ])arties  would  induce  us  to  believe,  the  great  problem 
of  the  futui-e  is  to  Hnd  a  cheap  process  that  will  leave  the 
precious  metals  in  a  condition  to  form  an  amalgam  with 
(juicksilver  after  the  pyrites  have  been  calcined. 

Jt  is  3'et  a  mooted  question  whether  the  gold  contained 
in  pyrites  is  so  in  a  mere  mechanical  mixture,  or  in  chem- 
iciil  combination.  The  weight  of  authority  and  experi- 
ment is  in  liivor  of  the  hypothesis  of  mechanical  admix- 
ture. However  the  gold  of  Colorado  is  generally  alloyed 
with  small  quantities  of  silver  and  coi)i)er.  The  gold  ob- 
tained by  pulverization  of  ])yritcs  mixed  with  copper, 
zinc-blend  and  lead,  is  not  of  a  bright  yellow  color  and 
metalic  lusti-e,  but  has  a  grayish  brown  tint.  It  is  what 
is  called  "rusty  gold,"  and  is  indiflerent  to  tlie  action  of 
quicksilver,  it  therefore  will  not  amalgamate.  From  this 
fact  the  stamp-mill  process  fails  to  save  it.  It  has  not  yet 
been  determined  Avhatis  the  cause  or  nature  of  this  coatr 
ing.  In  the  reiining  c;'ucible  this  "rusty  gold"  gives  a 
regulus  of  99  per  ciMit.  However  mechanical  rubbing  in 
pans,  roasting,  or  chemical  treatment,  removes  this  rusty 
film  and  leaves  the  gold  in  an  amalgamable  condition. 
Also  w^hen  copper  sulphurets  combined  with  other  metals 
are  desvilphurized  the  gold  cannot  be  extracted  by  amal- 
gamation, because  it  has  this  same  film  rendering  it  indif- 
ferent to  the  action  of  quick-silver. 

When  the  great  problem  is  solved  of  treating,  upon  a 
large  and  economical  scale,  ]»yrites  and  sulphurets  so  that 
the  contained  gold  and  silver  is  left  in  an   amalgamable 


22S  OVKR   'I'llK   IM.MXS  AXI>  UN  THJE  .MULNTAIXS. 

condition,  then  the  stuni])-niill,  as  it  is  tlio  cheapest  ixud 
sinipk^st  of  all  known  applianecs,  will  supersede  all  other 
methods  of  reilueing  such  ores  as  are  found  in  the  liither- 
side  of  the  Rocky  ^[ountains,  from  Xcw  Mexico  to 
Montana.  The  fortunate  individual  w  iio  will  succeed  in 
aec'ouiplishino;  this  feat,  Avill  reap  the  richest  liarvest  yet 
gathered  in  the  field  of  discovery,  while  at  the  same  time 
he  Avill  confer  untold  hlessiuu;s  and  incalculahle  wealth 
not  only  u])on  the  great  mountain  i-e^-ion  of  the  West,  hut 
upon  the  Woi-ld. 

But  it  is  evident  that  as  the  case  now  stands,  ])rivate 
economy  comes  in  conflict  with  political  economy.  The 
object  of  the  individual  is  accomplished  when  he  succeeds 
in  extracting  the  precious  metals  in  pajMng  quantities  at 
the  least  possible  expense,  regardless  of  how  much  he 
wastes. 

It  has  been  already  stated  that  on  an  average,  stam}»- 
mills  working  jiyrites,  and  sulphurets^  do  not  save  more 
than  one-half,  some  say  one-third,  of  the  precious  nietals 
containi'<l  in  the  ores,  while  they  waste  all  the  copper  and 
lead.  But  the  interests  of  society  demand  that  there 
should  be  no  waste..  The  common  3'ield  of  one  cord, 
(about  seven  tons, )  of  average  gold  ore  at  the  stamp-mill 
is  from  8120  to  -?130.  Say  the  average  yield  is  a  medium 
bctweeti  these,  that  is  8125  per  cord.  According  to  the 
highest  estimate  this  is  only  one-half  of  the  assay  value  of 
the  ore.  Deduct  §25  for  mill  fees  and  thei-e  remains  the 
net  yield  of  SlOO  from  seven  tonsof  ore  worth  .$250.  Suj)- 
pose  now  that  the  cr)st  of  the  combined  jjrocesses  ofchlor- 
ination  and  smelting  is  815  i>er  ton  or  8105  for  seven  tons; 
and  that  only  90  per  cent,  of  the  metal  is  extracted,  which 
is  8225.  Subtracting  the  cost  of  ri'duction  from  this  sum 
we  have  a  net  yield  of  8120.  The  diffei-ence  of  ju-ofit 
therefore  would  he  20  i)cr  cent,  to  the  owner  of  the  ore- 
besides  which  th«.'  ])roductioii  has  been  largely  increased  and 
many  more  j)crsonshavc  been  furnishe<l  with  employment. 
The  estimated  vield  of  bullion  of  the  mines  of  Colorado 


<i\  KR    TIIK  rr.AI.N.S  AM)  <i.\  Til!-:   MOUNTAINS.  229 

tor  the  ]>i-esoiit  ywir  (1^71;  is  80,000,000.  Dcdnoting 
Iroiu  tliis  lor  iln' proceeds  of  i^ulch  iiuniiii!;  and  siixdling 
wi.rks  82,000,000.  uiid  llie  pi-oduct  oV  iho  slainp-juills  for 
tlif  curiviit  year  is  §4,000,000.  A'-cordino;  tu  tlio  foro/j^o- 
iiij,'  c-siimatt'  tlii>  iscjnly  oiie-liall' ol' the  bullion  coiUMiiied 
in  tlio  ores  treated  hy  llu'in.  Tlie  actual  value  of  the  ore 
Avorked  by  them  would,  therefore,  lie  8^^000,000.  By  the 
combined  chloj-inatioii  and  snieltini;-  ])roces,s  ii]>on  the  sup- 
j)o.sition  that  they  saved  onl}-  90  ]>er  cent,  this  ore  Avould' 
have  ])rodiiced  S7, 200.000.  Tlie  additional  gain  of  the 
owners,  therefore  would  be  SSOO.OOO,  and  to  the  juiblic 
$3,200,000.  Such  an  increase  ot  bullion  alone  wnnild  not 
only  enrich  Colorado  but  would  affect  the  business  and 
prosperity  of  the  Avhole  country.  Jiesides  this  the  copper 
and  lead  saved  Avoitld  be  worth  a  million  of  dollars  more. 

That  mining  o])erations  in  Colorado  can  be  made  liighly 
remunerative  there  can  be  no  question.  The  success  of 
the  reduction  works  of  Stewart,  and  of  Jlucpeden  &  Co., 
at  Georgetown,  and  especially  of  Prof.  Hill's  smelting 
works,  at  Black  Hawk',  ])lacos  this  beyond  controversy. 
The  Caribou  Company  have  now  completed,  at  Middle 
Boulder,  the  most  extensive  and  complete  works  in  the 
Mountains.  They  cost  about  81-')0,000,  and  I  have  been 
informed  that  since  they  have  been  in  operation  they  have 
shipped  from  8,000  to  8,500  ounces  of  bullion  per  week. 

However,  to  make  mining  successful  and  the  investment 
safe,  men  must  go  into  it  as  tliey  do  into  any  other  legit- 
imate business.  There  is  a  great  deal  of  capital  in  the 
country  seeking  profita,ble  investment,  but  those  who 
have  the  control  <jf  it,  have  spent  all  their  lives  in  other 
])ursuits,  and  have  never  had  their  attention  drawn  to  min- 
ing; especially  mining  of  the  precious  metals.  Thej-hnve 
besides  had  their  fears  excited  liy  the  losses  tlieir  friends 
have  sustained  who  had  ventured  into  such  entei-prises. 
Capital  generally  is  timid  when  controlled  by  those  who 
have  accumulated  it.  "Within  the  field  of  enterprise 
wherein  thev  have  gathered  it,  the\'  can   make  a  calcula- 


230  OVKR  TlIF,  I'LAINS    AND  OX  THE  MOUXTAINS. 

tiou  of  ri>sulis  with  almost  uiifailinfif  accuracy;  l)ut  in  now 
fields  ofonterpri.se  tliev  can  neither  jnako  a  calcukition, 
nor  feel  or  see  their  way  through  it.  In  fa(!t  every  kind 
of  business  lias  so  little  margin  for  jtrotits,  that  it  requires 
the  closest  sailing  to  the  wind  to  keep  within  the  margin, 
and  make  a  successful  voyage.  ]\[oreover  the  margin 
being  small  the  0]>ei"atioii  must  he  on  a  large  scale  to  make 
the  ])rotits  an  oljject.  Hence  the  many  shipwrecks  that 
befall  even  the  most  wary.  Presides  the  uncertainty  of 
prosperous  circumstances,  is  the  flucttuition  in  ])rices  of 
the  commodity  on  whicli  the  transaction  is  based.  The 
price  dejiends  upon  the  supjily  and  demand.  The  latter 
may  be  two-fold  the  ordimiry  and  extraordinary  demand. 
The  prospect  of  an  extraordinaiy  demand  nuiy  put  up  the 
price,  yet  aften  all  the  demand  may  be  only  an  ordinary 
one.  In  such  cases  more  oi-  less  losses  must  be  sustained, 
and  these  may  be  often  ruinous.  Of  late  years  also  the 
commercial  centiH^s  have  become  theatres  of  operations 
which  ai-e  no  better  than  gambling.  Thousands  by  these 
means  become  shipwrecked  both  in  capital  and  character. 
It  is  generally  the  nnjst  unscru])ulous  that  M'in.  But  there 
is  one  consolation,  the  victor  of  to-day  becomes  the  victim 
of  to-morrow.  It  is  therefore  a  serious  question  for  capi- 
talists to  consider  whether  they  cannot  invest  ther  capital 
in  other  entei-prises  than  those  which  are  constantly  drawn 
into,  and  engulfed  in  the  vortex  of  s])eculation  and 
whether  such  investments  would  not  be  safer  and  the 
profits  surer. 

In  the  k-iiid  i)f'  new  enterprises,  miuinLC  deserves  the 
most  serir)us  considei-ation,  but  U't  it  be  doii(>  with 
a  view  of  husi.ness  and  nol  of  speculation.  <iold  and 
silver  are  the  measures  of  value  the  worM  over,  by  which 
the  jjricesof  all  other  comiruxlities are  measnrcrl;  therefore 
there  can  be  no  fluctuation  in  their  value.  The  only  ques- 
tions to  be  determined  are,  how  much  can  be  produced? 
and  what  will  be  the  cost  of  production  ?  Both  of  these 
questions  can  b«'  accurately  determined   by  dispassionate 


OVKR  THE  PLAINS    AND  ON  THE  MOl.NTAfNS.  231 

InvoHtigiitiou  and  calculation.     In  faot  tiii.s  is  the  course 
now  ])ursuo(l  hy  all  M'ho  moan  l)usincss. 

While  in  the  jMountain.s,  1  met  Enj^lish  capitulistH,  ac- 
companied hy  a  profes.sional  <reolo^i.st  and  metaliur^^ist, 
iind  hy  an  expert  miner.  They  would  not  look  at  a  i)roH- 
pect';  hut  when  a  developed  lode  was  offered,  the  geologi.st 
examined  carefully  the  count ly  rock,  the  size  of  the 
orevice  and  its  material,  and  made  a  series  of  qualitative 
and  quantitative  analyses;  while  the  miner  determined 
accurately  the  cost  of  milling;.  The  sup|)ly  of  ore  and  the 
cost  of  reduction  were  then  calculated  from  known  data  ; 
and  if  the  result  showed  a  fair  margin  for  profits,  nego- 
tiations were  opened  -for  purchasing  the  mine.  With  such 
precautions  as  these  no  one  need  make  a  misadventure. 
This  is  the  only  way  that  investments  should  be  made, 
whetluM-  the  object  in  view  be  mining  and  reduction  com- 
bined, or  oidy  reduction.  Mr.  Win.  Cope,  an  English 
■capitalist  whom  I  saw  in  the  Mountains,  after  his  return  to 
England  sent  a  written  proposition  to  the  "(.'entral  Reg- 
ister" saying  that  his  company,  the  British  and  Colorado 
Mining  Bureau  of  London,  "stood  ready  at  once  to  erect 
smelting  works  on  a  large  and  com])rehensive  scale,  for 
the  treatment  of  all  descriptions  of  ores,  whether  gold 
•or  silvei",  to  invest  81,000,000  in  the  w^rks  and  for  the 
buying  <)f  ores,  provided  that  mine  owners  will  give 
•sufficient  guarantee  that  said  works  shall  always  be  fully 
supplied  with  all  the  ore  they  can  possibly  use,"  and 
promised  to  revisit  Colorado  the  present  year  (1872)  to 
see  what  inducements  mine  owners  would  hold  out  for 
such  investment. 

Mr.  II.  B.  (irose,  an  Knglish  metallurgist  who  has  spent 
nearly  four  years  in  the  mines  of  the  Mountains,  in  a 
•communication,  dated  London,  Oct.  4,  1871,  and  published 
in  the  London  Mining  .Journal,  says :  "  The  country  (Colo- 
rado) is  a  good  one  for  mining,  an<l  parties  interested  in 
■l)ona  fiih^  mines  under  practical  management  have  no  need 
do  fear  loosini;  their  monev;  for  I  am  fullv  convinced  that 


232  OVER  THE  I'LAINS   AND  ON  THE  MOUNTAINS. 

ihcro  is  ]\oX  a  riclior  country  in  the  world  ii>r  mineralft 
than  Colorado  is,  and  esjiceially  for  i;-old  and  silver.  I 
have  hccii  tlirouirh  all  the  mines  that  are  yet  0])Gned  up, 
and  have  taken  every  means  to  ascertain  their  value,  cost 
of  workini;,  I'a-. ;  an<l  ai'u-r  allowing  for  all  extra  expenses, 
I  tind  the  average  yield  ot'  the  lodes  to  bo  greater  in  value 
than  in  any  other  country,  and  -with  ])roi)er  management 
would  leave  greater  ])rofits.  There  is  no  doubt  the  mines 
<»f  Coloiiido  have  been  badly  manau'ed  :  in  fact  there  is 
not  a  mine  that  I  have  seen,  worked  in  a  projier  manner; 
neither  is  there  a  nune  with  the  sole  management  in  the 
hands  of  a  ])ractical  man.  It  was  (|ui(e.  a  siir]>i-iso  to  me 
to  see  how  some  ot  thcni  are  worked,  and  the  waste  of 
money  incurred." 

^fr.  (J  rose  since  then  has  returned  to  the  Mountains,  and 
did  good  service  in  exp(^sing  the  tin  swindle  at  Ogden, 
Utah. 

Ilavingsufficiently  established  tlu'  fiict  that  the  mincsof 
('ojoi'ado  are  rich,  and  under  ]iro))cr  management  must  bo 
]»roductive.  It  may  perhaj)s  be  pertinent  briefly  to  show 
the  cau.Hcs  why  so  much  capital  has  been  irretrievably 
8wampe<l  in  o])erations  looking  to  their  develo]»ment. 

I:i  many  cases  failure  was  a  foregone  conclusion,  which 
without  a  miracle  could  not  have  resulted  otherwise. 
The  manag(Mnent  of  the  enter})rize  was  entrusted  to  utterly 
incompetent,  oi-  if  comjietent,  to  reckless  men,  whose  ex- 
travagance made  success  ati  im])ossibility.  Xot  even 
ordinary  ])rud(Micc,  foresight  and  judgnu^nt  w(M-e  exercised 
in  selecting  the  sight  for  rcMliution  works.  Mxj)ensivc 
work's  were  ci'ectc<l,  where  the  company  owned  the  only 
lode  in  the  vicinity,  and  that  a  mere  prosjiect.  At  other 
jilaces  the  ])rospect8  in  the  vicinity  for  mines  were  j)lenty 
but  not  a  single  mine  developc<l ;  so  that  neither  the  na- 
ture and  character  of  the  ore,  nor  the  capacity  of  the  dis- 
trict to  furiiisli  a  su]»ply  of  it  were  known.  Besides, 
wor.«ie  still,  the  owners  of  ])rospects  had  not  the  means  of 
opening  them  up,  or  if  they  luid,  they  had  not  the  inclina- 


OVKR  THE  PL.AINS  AND  ON  THE  MOUNTAINS.  233 

tion  to  do  so.     Tliis  is  yet   ii  scriouH   obstacle  in  the  way 
of  making  reduction  works  successi'iil. 

The  delect  is  in  tlic  law,  which  allows  a  man  to  find  and 
liold  any  minihcr  of  ])rospects  M-ith  a  mci-c  nominal 
amount  of  work  on  each.  To  homestead  a  piece  of  land 
it  requires  im])rovoment  of  it  and  residence  on  it  for  fivo 
years;  but  for  obtaining  a  ]>atent  for  a  lode  it  reqiJlres 
oidy  the  sinking  of  a  shaft  ten  feet  deep;  whereas  it 
should  require  its  development  by  an  expenditure  of  not 
less  than  $500.  This,  or  something  like  i(,  I  believe  is  a 
})royisioii  in  the  new  law  i-elating  to  mining  now  ])ending 
before  Congress. 

As  the  case  now  stands  no  guarantee  of  a  su])ply  of  oi-e 
can  bcgiyen  ;  andconse(juently  no  assurance  that  tiie  works 
will  not  have  to  stand  idle.  Summer,  the  best  season  for' 
operating  reduction  works,  is  also  the  bewitching  season 
for  jirospeeliiig  which  the  miner  canncjt  resist,  lie  there- 
fore leaves  and  for  months  explores  the  mountain  sides, 
the  deep  gorges,  the  canyon  walls  or  tlie  towering  peaks 
for  new  lodes. 

In  early  days  this  evil  necessarily  was  much  greater 
than  now;  and  consequently  the  first  adventurers  in 
mining  and  reducing  enterprises  suflTered  more  from  it 
tlian  they  would  now.  But  it  is  as  yet  a  serious  drawback, 
and  retards  a  rapid  development  of  the  mines.  It  was  a 
fruitful  source  of  failure  then,  and  it  has  entailed  many 
evils  on  the  mining  interests  which  are  still  felt  and  will 
be  felt  for  sometime  to  come.  Besides  creating  a  ])reju- 
dice  against  tlie  mines,  it  has  i-eacted  against  the  miners  ; 
for  shrewd  capitalists  that  have  since  gone  there  and 
erected  works,  taking  into  consideration  the  uncertainty 
of  a  supply  of  ore,  make  it  }>ay  while  they  do  run,  both 
for  the  time  they  I'uii,  and  may  be  idle;  an<l  hence  pay 
very  low  rates  for  ores.  Assure  them  of  a  constant  sup- 
ply the  year  round  ;  and  they  will  advance  their  ])rices  for 
ores  thirty  per  cent. 

So  far  I  have  only  spoken  of  legitinuue  transactions  in 


234  OVF.R   THK  PLAINS  AXH  ON  THK  MOUNTAINS. 

the  Past  and  Present ;  Init  tlioro  liavo  been  many  traas- 
actions,  (and  unlo.ss  people  are  careful,  there  will  boniiiny 
more  hereafter,)  that  were  neither  legitimate  nor  honest. 
It  is  necessary  to  speak  of  those  also,  to  make  the  causes 
apparent  of  that  widespread  disaster  and  consequently 
deep  mistrust  in  the  mines  and  miiung  in  the  mountain 
teiTitories. 

Upon  the  discovery  of  j^old  and  silver  liere,  those  who 
had  made  ])rotitable  investments  in  California  were  not 
backward  in  venturing  capital  here;  because  their  knowl- 
edge antl  experience  in  mines  justilied  them  in  doing  so. 
Insensibly  others,  who  ha<l  no  such  experience,  were 
drawn  into  like  investments  :  and  the  buvini;- and  sellin<r 
of  mines  and  mining  stock  became  a  speculation.  This 
soon  ran  wild,  because  the  purchaser  did  not  know, 
or  if  he  did,  did  not  care  to  make  the  distinction  between 
a  prospect  and  a  mine.  The  mountain  men  were  not  slow 
to  perceive  that  a  good  prospect  was  equally  as  saleable 
and  brought  as  much  money  as  a  good  ininc;  and  they 
were  not  backward  in  jirotiting  ]iy  it.  As  it  answered  all 
their  ])urposes,  if  they  could  show  a  well  defined  metal 
vein  in  a  crevice,  so  they  devoted  themselves  to  the  task 
of  finding  these.  But  the  fact  that  undevelo2)ed  mining 
property  found  a  ready  sale,  and  often  commanded  cxor- 
bitiiiit  i)rices,  in  the  end  ])rovc(l  to  be  the  mostserious  blow 
that  it  was  possi])le  to  strilce  at  tlu^  character  of  the  mines 

•and  at  the  prosperity  of  the  mining  interest  of  the  moun- 
tain territories.  Such  sales  begat  inlem]»erate  speculation, 
and  speculation  begat  a  i-age  for  finding  prospects.     The 

•quickening  infiucncc  of  sj)eculati()n  converted  nearly  the 
whoh;    mountiiin    }»opuIation  into  prospectors;  and  their 

•efforts  would  have;  supplied  ])i'ospects  for  reasona})le  sjiecu- 
lation  ])roloiigcd  indefinitely.  Ihit  H])cc\dation  was  soon 
intensified  into  a  mania,  whi(h  like  all  such  transactions, 
by  the  operation    of  an  inexorable   law,  collapsed  and  left 

widesfiread  disasicr   in    its  ti'ain.     It  is  necessar\'  here;  to 


OVKR   TIIK  ri,AlNS  AND  ON  THK  MOUNTAINS.  235 

prodiK-o  SIS  testimony  the  most  shameful   record  of  those 
times,  showiiii^  how  the  thiiit;"  was  done. 

A  Hwuriu  of  unprineipU'd  Hpecuhitors  m;i(h'  their  appear- 
ance ill  the  Mountains,  whoHC  onl^'  ohject  was  to  enricli 
themselves  at  all  ha«ards,  and  by  anymeans  however  foul 
and  disroputabk',  and  then  tlee  with  tlieir  ])lundor  from 
the  country.  They  hail  confederates  in  New  York  and 
otlier  eastern  citien  who  were  coworkers  with  thorn. 
These  at  tirst  were  ready  to  huy  all  prospects  that  were  in 
market,  and  while  their  supply  of  money  lasted,  which 
was  not  long,  they  did  so.  But  what  then  ?  Where  there 
was  a  })urposo  and  a  will,  there  was  a  way.  Ink  was 
cheap,  the  pen  nimhle,  lithograph  ntone  docile,  and  paper 
patient;  therefore  one  could  bo  made  to  say,  and  the  other 
to  show  anything  calculated  to  Kti-iko  the  excited  fancy  of 
men  laboring  under  a  delusion.  Fraudulent  mining  com- 
panies were  gotten  xip,  stocks  issuerl,  engravings  made  of 
the  company's  Reduction  AYorks  and  of  the  suiTOunding 
mountain  scenery,  lithographed  ])lats  of  tho  property, 
showing  the  location  of  the  lodes;  fraudulent  certificates 
of  pre-tended  assays  of  the  ores,  signed  and  swoni  to  by 
fictitious  metallurgists  l)cforo  fictitious  oiricei-s  attested 
under  seal,  &:(•.,  and  with  these  the  Eastern  cities  were 
flooded.  3[illions  were  thus  paid  foi'  what  was  not  worth 
even  a  chance  in  tluu  most  worthless  of  all  things,  a  "  Gill 
Entcrprize." 

But  who  is  responsible  ihv  this  state  of  things;  and 
where  lies  the  fault  that  disaster  and  ruin  ensued  from 
such  transactions?  kSurely  not  in  the  mines,  for  they  were 
only  the  occcrsion  foi-,  not  the  cmise  of  thenu  It  has  been 
said,  in  music  there  would  be  no  flats  if  there  were  no 
sharps.  Whether  true  or  not  in  music,  many  from  sad  ex- 
perience can  testify  that  it  is  true  in  some  other  things. 
Men  possessed  of  some  money  which  they  did  not  earn, 
and  the  value  of  Avhich  they,  therefore,  do  not  know,  of 
sanguine  temperament,  little  or  no  ex])erience,  antl  dazzled 
^with  the  pros2>ect  of  beconii:ig  milliojuures  with  a  single 


-36  OVER   THK  PLAINS  AND  ON  THE  MOUNTAINS. 

reason's  operations,  arc  very  liable  to  hecome  flats  {{sharps 
are  about.  It  necils  no  laboreil  ari:;unient  ^vith  the  facts- 
net  forth,  that  this  is  ^vhat  was  the  matter  ^vith  these 
transactions  lor  Avliich  the  existence  of  a;old  and  silver  in 
the  ;^[ountains  gave  the  occasion.  They  were  mere 
'Mfieks  U])on  strajii^ers." 

liefore  closing  we  must  address  one  word  of  caution 
and  advice  to  those  who  will  undertake  a  mining  entei'- 
prize.  You  must  do  it  upon  sti-ict  business  principles.. 
Buy  no  projierty  whatever  until  either  by  jiersonal  in- 
spection, or  by  examination  of  a  competent  and  honest 
expert,  you  have  satisfied  yourself  of  its  character 
and  ascertaned  its  true  nature  and  value.  Xever  in- 
vest your  capital  in  any  company  whose  main  object  is 
to  pay  fat  salaries  to  one  or  more  favorites;  and  who,  in 
(trder  that  they  may  not  be  put  to  any  inconveniences, 
will  liave  the  ore  brought  clear  across  the  continent  to  be 
treated  at  home.  The  liiilure  of  such  a  company  is  a  fore- 
gone conclusion.  The  ores  nuist  be  smelted  in  the  moun- 
tains, and  as  near  to  the  mines  as  facilities  can  be  had. 
Labor  is  about  as  cheap  there  as  anywhere  and  fuel  much 
cheaper.  At  Boulder  city,  for  instance,  coal  is  delivered, 
at  §2,85  per  ton.  The  '' matte  "  maybe  transported  else- 
where for  separation  and  refinement,  but  that  only  so 
long  as  Express  Corajianies  and  Railroads  charge  the 
enormous  rates  they  now  do  for  transporting  Indlion. 
The  refining  can  be  done  there  now  as  cheaply  as  any- 
where, so  there  is  even  no  economy  in  liaving  smelting 
works  in  the  Mountains  and  refining  Avorks  at  Omaha,  St. 
Louis,  (.'hicago,  Newark  or  New  York. 

When  the  works  are  completed,  put  the  technical  opera- 
tions in  charge  of  a  scientific  expert,  and  the  business* 
management  in  the  hands  of  a  man  of  tact  and  capacity, 
who  will  sujtervise  the  whole  by  constant  attention,  and 
the  gruxitest  possible  vigilance.  The  success  of  Prof.  Hill 
is  mainly  due  to  tbe  fact  tiiat  he  gives  his  entire  time  and 
attention  to  the  business  m.anagement  of  the  works  while 


OVER  THy    IT.AINS  AND  ON  TIIF  MOUNTAINS.  237 

the  t.oohiiic-iil  operntions  iirc  entrusted  to  a  sicillfitl  (icniiaii 
mct:illur^-ist. 

The  present  is  a  favorable  time  for  invx-stnient.  The 
country  has  nt)t  yet  recovered  from  the  recoil  and  revul- 
sion caused  l)y  the  earlier  failures.  People  are  cautious  as 
the}^  should  be;  and  when  you  mention  Colorado  mines 
they  arc  as  suspicious  as  the  mice  in  the  fable,  that  a  cat 
may  be  concealed  in  the  bottom  of  the  meal  tul),  A  year 
or  so  longer,  and  people  will  have  recovered  confidence, 
when  everything  of  value  will  be  boiiglit  up  for  the  pur- 
pose of  legitimate  business.  Reduction  works  also  will 
have  been  erected  at  all  favorable  points,  so  that  ricii 
mines  now  almost  without  value,  being  in  the  vicinity  of 
such  works,  will  be  so  much  enhanced  in  value  that  the 
same  favorable  opportunities  for  investment  will  not  exist. 


238  CVIkK   XUE  PLAINS   AND  ON    I  H I-,  MolJNXAlNS. 


CHAPTEK  XIX. 

The  tinu'  liiid  now  arrived  for  us  to  turn  our  f{i,ce& 
homeward,  und  it  was  with  deej)  rcijjret  that  we  yielded 
to  the  inexorable  necessity.  Atu-i-  a  sound  and  refreshing 
sleep,  such  as  can  only  be  enjoyed  in  its  full  fruition  in 
Colorado,  on  the  17th  of  June,  I  was  uj)  as  usual  with  the 
dawn  and  out  for  a  walk  to  enjoy  for  the  last  time  the 
lite  ins])irin}j;  breath  of  the  morning  air;  to  view  once 
again  the  sublime  and  gorgeous  sceneiy  of  ^Nature's  great- 
est and  best  effort,  and  to  feel  once  more  the  emotions  of 
enthusiastic  admiration  and  insjiiration  which  alone  such 
grandeur,  subliniity,  _\'ct  unadonicd  simplicity  can  en- 
kindle. 

Jioth  here  and  at  Golden,  wiienever  awake  during  the 
night,  it  was  a  most  i)leasurable  sensation  to  be  soothed 
and  lulled  to  sleep  again  by  the  ever-murmuring  waters  as 
they  flowed  down  the  plain.  Consequently,  I  seemed  to 
be  in  fellowship  with  them,  and  felt  a  strong  desire  to 
hold  communion  with  them  whenever  opportunity  offered. 
I  was  therefore  irresistibly  drawn  to  thcii-  side,  and  on  to 
the  bridge  over  them,  ready  to  muse  and  lose  m3-self  in 
day  dreams.  Oh,  how  sweet  it  were  to  spend  life  here, 
where  eveiything  speaks  with  such  irresistible  eloquence, 
yet  soothingly  and  feelingh-,  to  the  03^0,  the  heart,  the 
mind  and  the  imagination  !  There  the  everlasting  moun- 
tains spring  up  at  a  single  bound  four  thousand  feet,  to 
kiss  the  blushing,  ])ure  and  smiling  skies.  Grand,  awful 
and  sublime  are  they,  Avith  a  histoiy  that  human  pen  will 
never  record,  a  mystciy  that  the  human  mind  will  never  un- 
ravel, and  invrjlving  laws  that  human  reason  will  never 
unfold  and  explain.     Yet  they  are  as  beneficent  as  their 


\ 

OVKR  THK  J'r.ArNS    ANr>  (t.N  THK  MOINTALNS.  239' 

presence  is  ^reat,  majestic  ami  imperious.  From  tlic  icy 
fountains  under  their  stern  and  Know-covered  crests  issue 
these  pure,  limjtid  waters,  to  gladden  the  valleys,  refresh 
the  parched  ])lain,  clothin<:r  the  land  with  verdure,  and 
filling  hill  and  dale  with  joyous  life. 

Fruin  them,  ye  supercilious,  proud, 

Ijcarh  the  groat  lesson  which  ye  so  much  need, 

That  to  be  truly  c^eat  is  to  be  good, 

lienevolent,  bouetieent  and  kind, 

And  scatter  blessings  all  around  the  land. 

Ah  !  surely  this  is  a  place  for  the  poet  to  catch  new  in- 
spiratioii  and  pour  forth  songs  on  themes  never  attempted' 
in  verse,  and  where  the  moralist  can  draw  ennobling  les- 
sons of  instruction,  and  enforce  them  by  the  great  sanction 
of  Nature. 

Listlessly  and  Avith  a  heavy  heart  T  left  the  bridge  and 
sauntered  down  the  margin  of  the  stream,  then  down  the 
lane  bordered  by  meadows  and  wheat-fields,  througli 
which  runs  the  Denver  road.  I  felt  oppressed  with  an  in- 
definable sadness  which  I  could  not  shako  off,  for  in  my 
ears  seemed  to  be  ever  ringing  the  words,  "  Once  more, 
but  never  again. "  I  was  at  last  arrested  by  the  thrilling 
notes  of  a  skylark  on  the  fence  before  me.  Whilst  listen- 
ing with  wrapt  attention  to  his  song,  I  could  not  refrain 
from  repeating  the  following  stanzas  from  Shelley's  ad- 
dress to  a  skvlark  : 

I 

"  \VTiat  object*  are  the  fountains 

Of  thy  happy  strain? 
What  fields,  or  waves,  or  mountains? 

What  shapes  ot  skj',  or  plain  ? 
What  love  of  thine  own  kind?     What  ignorance  of  pain?  "■ 

"Teach  me  half  the  gladness 

That  thy  brain  must  know, 
Such  liarmonidus  madness 

From  my  lips  would  flow 
The  world  would  listen  then,  asl  arn  listening  now.  "■ 


240  OVER  THE  PL.\IXS    AND  OX  THE  MOUNTAINS. 

But  even  his  cheerful,  joyous  and  ringing  notes  could  not 
break  the  gloomy  spell  tlmt  had  settled  on  my  feelings.  I 
therefore  returned  to  tho  liotel  to  jirepare  for  the  home- 
ward joTirney. 

After  breakfast,  everything  being  ready,  our  kind  Boul- 
der friends  came  in  troo]»s  to  bid  us  a  final  farewell.  The 
drive  of  twelve  miles  down  the  plain,  through  which  flows 
the  Boulder,  by  A'almont,  and  through  the  village  of  tho 
same  name  nestled  at  its  feet,  to  the  then  terminus  of  the 
niilroail  at  Erie,  was  delightful  and  pleasant.  The  sky 
was  perfectly  transjmrent  and  of  that  deep  azure  blue  of 
which  tourists  in  Italy  speak  so  enthusiastically.  But  in 
the  East,  as  usual,  over  the  plain  hung  a  grayish,  purplish 
haze.  I  do  not  knoAV  how  common  this  haze  is,  but  every 
day  I  was  out  on  the  Plains  lifteen  or  tM'enty  miles  from 
the  mountains,  while  in  Colorado  and  Wyoming,  I  encoun- 
tered ii.  It  is  a  meteorologic  fact  which  should  be  inves- 
tigated, as  it  is  a  precursor  of,  and  synchronous  witli,  elec- 
tric disturbances  to  the  eastward  of  it.  Its  density  also  in- 
dicates the  intensity'  of  the  electric  distui-bance.  From 
the  mountains  I  had  noticed  for  several  days  that  thchazo 
was  more  than  usualh'  dense  and  lurid.  I  then  predicted 
great  electric  disturbances  to  the  eastward,  and  got  laugh- 
ed at  for  being  so  weatherwise.  Yet  on  those  very  days  tor- 
nadoes were  raging  from  (ialvcston  to  Nebraska  and  east- 
Avard  to  Louisiana  and  Ohio.  It  was  on  one  of  those  days, 
namely,  the  16th  of  .Tune,  that  the  town  of  Eldorado,  in 
Kansas,  was  totally  destroyed  by  a  tornado.  That  riight, 
as  Wf  leil  Denver,  therc^  wasa  brilliantaurora,  which  even 
the  dense  haze  could  not  hide,  seen  as  far  east  as  Ohio  j 
and  the  following  night,  Ilit>  iSth,  a  most  brilliant  auroi-a 
was  seen  over  the  whole  of  the  northern  paft  of  tlie  con- 
tinent, 1  therefore  renewed  my  predictions,  not  only  of 
storms  but  of  earthquakes.  The  storms  extended  from 
Central  Kansas  to  Xew  York,  and  the  earthquake  occurred 
in  New  Jersev  ami  Brof)klvn  on  the  19th,  and  one  at 
Lima  on  same  date.     It  is  well  known  that  in  California 


OVER    TIIK  PLAIN'S  AND  ON'  TlIK  MOCNTAINS.  241 

they  dread  an  earthquuko  whencvci' a  lurid  luizo  .sj)reada 
over  the  sky;  and  the  recent  terrible  hurricane  in  the 
West  Indies  and  the  coast  of  Florida,  accompanied  by  an 
earthquake,  was  synchronous  with  a  lurid  lia/,o  that  spread 
I'rom  Western  ^Nebraska  to  Central  Ohio  and  south  into 
Mississippi,  and  with  a  most  brilliant  liory  red  aurora. 
The  record  ofjdiysical  }»lu'nomena  occuri-ing  all  over  tho 
globe,  which  I  am  keeping,  shows  the  unvarying;  contem- 
poraneousness of  earthquakes,  cyclones  and  otluT  elec- 
trical disturbances,  with  auroras,  lurid  haziness  and  sun- 
spots  as  far  as  I  am  able  to  obtain  the  latter.  In  Europe, 
as  my  record  also  shows,  these  electric  disturbances  are 
often  preceded  by  the  phenomenon  of  mirai^e. 

Eeturning  now  to  our  drive  to  Erie  :  \Y^hen  we  had  as- 
cended the  terraced  plateau  some  four  miles  east  of  Valmorit 
looking  eastward,  I  saw  distinctly  an  image,  though  faint, 
of  tho  mountains  behind  us  reflected  in  the  haze.  It  soon 
vanished,  and  I  saw  it  no  more.  I  called  Mr.  Ephraini 
Pound's  attention  to  it,  (who  was  kindly  taking  us  in  his 
carriage  to  Erie.)  I  remarked,  "  I  suppose  we  must  call 
that  mirage,  though  to  do  so  knocks  all  the  philosophy  of 
the  wiseacres  into  a  '  cocked  hat. '  "  They  have  only  one 
explanation  to  give  of  this  phenomenon,  and  that  is,  that 
it  is  caused  by  tho  refraction  of  light  through  su])erim- 
posed  strata  of atmosphei-e  of  difterent  densities;  but  this 
is  not  tho  refraction  but  reflection  of  light. 

"This  mirage,"  said  he,  "  is  a  wonderful  thing.  I  have 
seen  it,  not  faint  as  it  is  )iow,  but  as  clear  and  distinct  as  if 
it  came  from  a  looking-glass.  One  day  I  Avas  driving 
along  listlessly,  almost  in  a  half  dreamy  state,  when  sud-  • 
denly  I  raised  my  eyes,  and  my  first  impression  was  that 
somehow  my  horse  had  turned  around  and  was  going 
home  again.  But  looking  behind  I  saw  that  lie  was  all 
right.  I  then  knew  it  was  mirage,  but  more  distinct  than 
I  had  ever  seen  it  before.  I  then  saw  that  it  came  as 
though  from  a  looking-glass  more  elevated  than  my  posi- 
tion; for  r  could  see  objects  reflected  that  I  could  not  see 
16 


242  0\'ER  THE  PL.\I\8    AND  ON  THE  MOUNTAINS. 

from  tho  point  where  I  was.  There  was  White  Rock  and 
Valmont  just  as  you  see  them  now,  and  there  was  the 
Boulder  flowing  down  througli  the  plain  as  distinct  as 
though  I  stood  over  it,  and  lioulder  City  and  the  mouth 
of  the  canyon,  too,  which  you  see  are  hidden  behind  Val- 
mont. It  was  tho  most  woiulerful  sight  I  ever  saw. '' 
Fremont,  in  his  journal,  mentions  the  same  phenomenon. 
Seeing,  what  he  supposed,  some  horsemen  opposite  in  a 
fog-bank,  he  sent  one  of  his  Jiu'ii  to  meet  them,  to  ascer- 
tain who  they  win-o,  w]\y  they  were  apparently  trying  to 
head  him  ott',  and  what  object  they  had  in  view.  As  his 
messenger  departed,  h(^  saw  one  of  the  strange  party  do 
the  same;  and  discovered  it  was  liis  own  ])arty  mirrored 
back  by  the  haze. 

We  had  now  arrival  ut  Erie,  and  had  but  ten  minutes 
to  spare.  We  therefore!  took  cordial  leave  of  our  friends, 
Messrs.  Pound,  (/ors(Mi  and  C'aplain  Austin,  who  had  taken 
U8  to  tlu!  dejiot,  and  who  wished  us  a  ])leasant  and  safo 
journey,  which  we  reciprocated  by  wishing  tbcn\  long  life 
an<l  continual  j^rosjjcrily. 

Once  on  board  the  cars,  attached  to  a  freight  train  tak- 
ing coal  to  Denver,  we  were  soon  on  our  way.  We  will 
state  hen-  that  we  were  indebted  to  the  liberality  and 
generosity  of  Col.  S.  W.  Fisher,  tho  General  Superinten- 
dent of  this  railroad,  the  Ikjulder  Valley,  as  well  as  of  the 
Kansas  Pacific,  Denver  Pacific  and  Colorado  Central  rail- 
roads, not  only  for  free  passes  but  for  other  favors  while 
in  the  Territory,  for  which  we  tender  him  tho  most  cor- 
dial thank's  of  our  whole  party. 

As  soon  Jis  till'  c;irs  got  undci-  way,  I  took  my  seat  at 
the  Avind(j\v  to  take  a  long  and  farewell  look  at  the  glori- 
OMH  old  mountains  now  fast  receding  from  view.  A  spell 
came  over  me,  ajid  I  ventured  for  once  upon  tho  danger- 
ous bight  of  verse,  to  indite  them  a  long  and  lasting  fare- 
well. 


OVKR   THE  PLAINS  AND  ON  THE  MOUNTAINS.         '     243 
FAJIEWELL  TO  THE  KOCKY  MOUNTAINS. 


Farewell,  3'e  icy  Crests ;  ye  fir  clad  Peuka ; 
Ye  Chasms  deep;  and  foaming  Torrents  wild; 

Ye  stern  old  Mountains,  with  your  flow'ry  dclls 

And  valleys  green,  and  jwuring  cascades,  white 

As  your  own  snow-clad  brows;  a  long  farewell ! 
Ye  are  a  gorgeous  temple,  such  as  ne'er 

By  mortal  hands  was  reared,  nor  cxtasy  nor  dreams 

E'er  built  in  cities  of  enchanted  land. 

I  gazed  upon  your  wonders,  and  I  garnered 

Stores  to  fill  the  mind,  and  feed  the  loftiest  thought ; 

And  fire  and  inspiration  drew  from  out 

Y'our  scenes ;  whilst  health  I  drank  from  your  pure  balmy  air. 

I  rannot  choo«e  but  gazo  upon  you  now ; 

A  glamour  and  a  fascination  sit 

Upon  your  brows,  and  dwell  within 

Your  deep  abysms.     A  music,  while  I  gaze 

Soft,  entrancing,  sweet  as  if  it  came 

From  tongues  angelic,  falls  upon  mj-  ear 
•    And  I'm  again  amidst  j'our  pathless  wilds ; 

Amid  your  hills,  and  vales,  and  glens,  and  chasms 

I  hear  the  yEolian  strains  of  winds  at  play 

Amid  the  lofty  tops  of  mountaui  pines 
AikI  firs.     Anon,  I'm  in  the  canyon  wild 
And  gaze  upon  its  weird,  gigantic  forms ; 
The  sound  of  rushing  waters,  and  the  roar 
Of  cataracts  leaping  with  impetuous  bound 
From  mid  air  to  the  yawning  gulf  below 
Fall  on  my  ears;  and  I'm  entranced  again. 

Hail !     All  hail,  ye  Mountains !  and  ye  Ilills 
Ye  Valleys,  Glens,  and  Precipices  steep ! 
All  hail,  ye  everlasting  Snows,  pure  and  white 
IJnblemisbixl,  unpolluted ;  though  of  Earth, 
Unsoiled,  where  all  else  festering  reelcs 
With  foul  ])olution  and  corruption  dire. 
Hail  Boulder,  mighty  magic  canyon  hail! 
Thy  raving,  foaming  waters  rolling  down 
Through  rocky  gorge,  now  dark,  now  glist'ningia 
The  sun,  swift  down  the  precipice  they  leap 
In  cascades  wild,  with  roaring,  stunning  sound; 
Thy  battlements  of  rocks,  now  bare  and  smooth. 
Then  rugged  wild  and  threal'ning,  high  aloft 
Upon  their  craggy  sides,  a  giant  brood 


244  OVER    TllK  ri-AINS  AM)  ON  THK  MOINTAIN'S. 


Of  lirs  !iml  piuos  Uioy  bi'ar,  wliu-h  ovfrurch 

Thy  doep  iibys.*.     The  bhu-  n'tTluingiiig  sky 

Looks  down  iiiid  smiles  upon  thy  bi-auty  wikl. 

Swift  sailing  <'loiu1s  tlioir  tl(M>ting  shadows  throw 

In  thy  abyss,  and  tlien  tlie  charining  scene 

Is  bathed  in  twilijihl  irlooni.     And  high  o'erhead 

The  golden  eagle  soars  in  circles  wide, 

And  shrieks  in  triumph  his  hoar.-e  thrilling  notes; — 

The  exulting  shout  of  Liberty.     ^Vliile 

I  gazed  on  thee  and  thine,  I  was  entranced. 

And  saw  things  strange,  and  wnmlerful,  sublime 

Ueyond  all  utterance.     3Iy  thoughts  afire 

All  wild  on  wandering  wings  soared  upward  far 

Above  this  mocking  unsubstantial  world 

Of  shadows,  to  realms  empyreal,  where 

Nor  change,  nor  deatli,  nor  phantasy  have  place. 

Ye  great  and  glorious  Mountains,  holil  the  keys 
T'unlock  the  secret  chambers  of  the  heart; 
Ye  have  the  power  to  ciiange  the  iickle  soul 
And  harmonize  its  music  with  the  spheres. 
Earth  has  no  greater  joj'  to  me  than  t!ii>; 
To  flee  the  world  and  its  corroding  cares. 
And  dwell  amidst  your  rugged  secnies,  and  fields 
Of  ice  and  snow;  tu  hear  the  soothing  hum 
Of  flowing  waters,  and  a  requiem  sung 
J5y  odorous  winds;  to  hear  the  eagle's  shrill  wild  shriek; 
To  listen  to  the  thund'ring  cataract's  roar; 
To  see  in  wild  confusion,  rocks  on  rocks, 
And  clifls  on  cliff  that  scale  the  low'ring  cloud  ; 
To  lay  the  ear  upon  your  bri-ast  and  feel 
The  throbbings  of  your  mighty  heart,  and  hear 
Entranced  the  gushing  forth  of  Nature's  sweet 
And  glorious  harmony,  until  I  feel 
3Iy  .soul  enlarged,  enraptured,  transported, 
Exalted  far  above  the  sordid  (;ares, 
Gross  pliiasures,  and  blind  passions  of  the  age; — 
Ah  this  '\i  real,  noble  life  indeed  ! 

The  transient  spell  that  on  my  dreaminjr  mind 
Had  fallen  and  kindly  ta'en  me  back 
To  thoughts  and  ic.c.nf:^  s()  wild  and  glorious 
Is  broken  now;  and  from  alar  I  look 
Upon  your  snowy  fields,  and  jagged  peaks 
All  clothed  in  sombre  blue. 

Ere  drops  the  veil 


OVKll    THK  ri-AIXS  AXI>  (iX  TIIK  MoIXTAINS.  245 

That  must  furcver  hide  fiinn  nn-,  vour  all 
Imi)osiiij;  Ljiaiuleur.  an  1  inaj<'>lio  iniuii, 
Ray,  cannot  ye  unseal  those  silent  lips 
That  keep  the  secrets,  which  from  eldest  Time 
Frail  maii  has  tried,  in  vain,  to  wrest  from  you 
And  yours;  and  which  with  expectatio!!  wild 
The  World  on  tiptoe  e'er  has  stood  to  hear  ? 
Thus  far  to  me  ynui-  lin-mn  ye've  unveiled. 
And  with  a  voice-  inclodifuisly  sweet. 
And  nii<'n  all  ehjijuent.  me  have  yc  taught 
To  understand  the  woightj-  import  of 
The  lesson  j^reat,  ye  were  designed  to  teach 
To  my  benighted  race,  of  grandeur,  power, 
Wisdom,  ])urity,  and  Orunipcitenee. 
"Will  not  ye,  \s'liosi)  resounding  echoes  make 
So  many-tongued  the  thunder's  awful  peal, 
Make  me  your  confidant  and  whispei-  now 
Though  in  the  lowest,  gentlest  brcalii.  tlie  word 
That  gives  the  clew  by  which  to  tread  tlx;  maze 
Whose  ititricacy  has,  till  now,  perplexed 
Confounded  and  embarrassed,  iv.ul  delied 
The  purest,  nob'e-t,  highest  effort^  of  the  mind; 
And  solves  t!in  laws  and  causes  of  your  birth? 

Ye  i)rattling  tell-tale  Waters  whose  glib  tongue 
The  palsying  frost  doth  strive  in  vain  to  hush, 
To  me  will  ye  not  now  divulge  the  strange 
And  thrilling  secrets  of  these  mountains  old, 
By  telling  how  they  rose  alxjve  the  sea 
And  plain  ?    Will  ye  impart  the  wonderful 
Mysterious  argument  to  fill  the  blank, — 
The  abysmal  blank,  up  on  the  scroll 
That  men  call  history;  how  living  things 
Arose  and  flourished;  then  in  Ocean  waves 
O'erwhelmed,  how  long  they  lay  in  darkness  and 
In  ruin ;  how  amid  the  eartluiuake's  shock 
When  reeled  the  world  and  stars  were  blotted  out, 
And  darkness  prime  had  filled  again  the  deep 
Abyss,  their  forms  arose  above  the  sea, 
For  aye  preserved  in  stones  as  fossils  strange? 
How  long  they've  lain  as  now  they  lie  upon 
The  mountain  side,  or  deep  beneath  the  plain  ? 
Ah,  yes,  enumerate  the  cycles  long 
Of  loveliness,  of  ruin,  which  have  swept 
The  earth  by  turns;  how  oft  the  Earth  so  lovely,  green. 


346  OVER  THE   ri>AIN3  ANO  0\  THE  MOI\NTAINS. 

And  filled  with  life  exuberant,  becHrne 

The  b<Jtloin  of  the  sea,  by  doliigo  whelmed 

And  driiwned  for  myriad  years,  then  rose  ui^uin 

To  light,  put  on  her  Wf)ntiHl  vesture  screen, 

And  pojtulniis  bfciime  ai;;iin;  how  in 

The  realms  of  Space,  new  suns  canio  forth  and  bla;wd 

Awhile,  uTid  theii  extinguished  ijuite  became 

In  darkness,  deep,  impenetrable,  stark. 

Ah,  tell  Iiow  oft  Dcstruotion  fierce  and  fell, 

Revival  lovely,  mild  and  calm,  in  turn, 

Ilavc  stepped  upon  t'.ie  st:iL;v,  and  there  have  played 

Their  mtiLjic  parts,  ere  Man,  ihc.  f^lory  and 

The  shame  of  Earth,  fir.-t  tmde  the  scene  to  act 

His  tnip;ie,  comic,  or  imposini;  i>art. 

Ye  hpav(!n-pnintin£j  Peaks,  and  pearly  I'"loods 
That  tc-ach  to  ^lan  bo  nuich  ;  will  ye  not  now 
Unfold  the  thrillinc;  and  transporlin;^  story 
Of  all  ye  saw,  and  part  of  whicli  ye  wure 
In  all  the  <;reat  iilimitfible  Past? 

What!     .Silent  still !     Not  one  small  voice  comes  forth. 
The  echo  of  the  myriad  years,  to  tell 
The  wond'rin<j  world  the  niyster}'  of  your  birth! 
Ye  will  n')t  for  a  momeiit  lil't  the  veil 
Implacable  that  hidi's  the  unreeordi-d  Past; 
Nor  dei^n  to  tdl  tlie  slraiii^o  events  tliat  since 
Your  birth  have  couk;  and  gone  1  Ye  are  to  all 
Entreaty  deaf  and  resolute  and  dumb. 
And  sacred  keep  the  secrets  of  your  chars^n. 
The  poet's  vision,  reason's  fC'^'i^P.  ii"<^  proi:d 
Philosophv,  in  vain,  have  tried  to  wring 
Fiom  ynu  the  trust,  ami  to  th(r  vulgar  gaze 
Unfold  your  wnndrous  lore;  and  failing  have  gone  mad. 

All,  while  I  gazi',  a  vision  bright  flits  by 
A  glimpse  it  gives  so  fearful,  grand,  sublime 
Of  that  dread  night  which  gave  ye  birth,  that  while 
The  s])i'!l  is  still  upon  me  T"!l  ])ortray. 
If  fitting  words  fail  imt.  your  natal  hour. 

'  Twas  a  tempcftuxus  niglit;  the  lamps  of  Heaven 
Were  blotted  out;  commotion  r>'d  had  seized 
This  trembling  Hph>Te;   wild  whirlwinds  racki-d  the  Earth, 
The  air.  the  sky.     T!ie  ll;ishing  lightning  cleft 
Th'abyss  of  d'lrkness  shrouding  Heaven  and  Earth; 
'Twas  thiTi  in  "•  ir*.h'|Uake's  ODUch,  w'lile  Oceim  seethed. 
The  .iir-!:encd  Ivirtli  y\wtn' I  wide,  mid  gave  ye  birth, 


OVRR   THE  PLAINS  AND  ON  THE  MOUNTAINS.  247 

"ye  woiidi;rful,  sublime,  majestic,  prand 

And  beauteous  Mountains.     The  tempest  then  grew  calm  ; 

The  st^^irm's  dark  clouds  flew  swift  ua  leaves  before 

Th'autumnal  blast;  the  <,'entie  3I<)oii  look<'d  forth  ; 

And  silvery  stars  beamed  bright  and  calm 

In  the  etherial  space.     Anon  the  pure 

And  golden  dawn  l)roke  forlli ;  and  Orient  Sun 

Before  iiis  throne  drove  bac'k  the;  ebon  spirit  of 
"That  fearful  night;  and  when  green  Karth  awoke. 

She  found  a  i  loudlesssky.     Jlild  zephyrs  blew 

To  fan  and  cool  your  glowing,  infant  brows; 

And  there  ye  stood  as  now  \e  stand,  gloriou-;,  , 

Resplendent,  great,  magniflcent  and  calm, 

Sublime,  immutable,  majestic, 

And  prou  1,  a  mystery  iinfathomably  deep. 
The  ever-during  wonder  of  my  puny  race. 

When  I  in  ct)nteniplation  wnipped  behold 
The  instability  of  ^lan,  his  works; — all  that 

He  is,  and  what  he's  wrought ;  how  rapidly 
New  nations,  tribes  and  peoples  have,  in  turn. 
Arisen  like  the  bubbles  on  a  stienm 

And  danced,  and  glittered  fi)r  awhi'e,  then  bur^t. 

Dissolved  and  disappeared  from  Ktirt'i ;— effaced 

For  nye,  and  vanislied  into  airy  nought  ; 

Ah,  well  may  I  a  frail  ephem'ral  child 

Of  clay  then  weep,  to  see  the  pride  ajid  power 

And  evanescent  glory  of  my  race, 

Fade  like  a  mi>rning  mi-t.  and  lost  to  sight. 

Yea,  from  all  memory  lost. 

Relentless  Time 
Has  ever  fed  upon  liis  off-spring;  spared 
Nor  young,  nor  old,  nor  beautiful,  nor  brave. 
We  call  him  cru^d,  but  alike  he  treats 
Proud  ilan,  the  crawling  worm,  the  mountains  high. 
And  continents  an  1  seas  ;  e'en  the  bright  orbs 
That  roll  in  glory  through  ee'estial  s]>ace  ; — 
All  are  engulfed  and  swallowed  up  by  him. 
I  weep,  but  sweet  it  is  to  shed  such  teius. 
For  thus  the  heart  o'erburdoned  finds  relief, 
And  throws  its  sorrows  off,     But  ye  ne'er  weep 
Nor  know  of  sorrow,  feel  no  grief  nor  care ; 
P'orye  seem  over-during  as  the  Sun  ; 
iS'or  Time  writes  on  your  brows  the  boding  lines 
Indelible  of  coming  change  and  growing  age. 
.Storms  beat  upon  your  naked  breast,  and  then 


248  i>VKR    THK  IM-AINS  AN1>  (i\  THE  MOUNTAINS. 

Tho  lii;htniiii^ glares  upon  your  brows:  the  hoarse 
Ami  bcllowiiii;-  tlniiuler  sliakes  your  sides; 
liut  ax.uro  ealni  returns,  and  finds  no -wound 
I'pon  yf)ur  breast,  nor  sear  upon  your  brow. 
Day  roHows  niijht,  and  Ni^ht  t!ie  dyin^^  day; 
Tlie  seasons  come  Hnd  ujo  ;  and  fleetin;^  years 
Pass  and  return,  yet  on  your  adamantine  fi-ont 
Thouixh  stern  and  old,  Deeay  nor  Dcatli  will  set 
Their  witherini;  seal,  nor  leave  a  traee  or  mark 
Upon  your  brow  ;  but  warmtli,  a  radiance  rnild 
T^nfadinjuj  beaut,,  and  the  vigorous  glow 
Of  an  immortal  youth,  sit  high  enthroned 
As  erst : — the  pledge  seeure  of  endless  years. 

Ye  Mountains,  rugged,  strong,  unchanging,  grand, 
"NVilh  beauty  wild  and  terrible,  your  dark 
And  dcej).  mysterious  chasms,  o'erhiuig 
Hy  toppling  rocks,  and  your  cold  icy  peaks 
That  glitter  like  a  distant  star:  ye  seem 
Eternal ;  think  y(;  the  poignant  words  "No  mork  " 
Do  not  apply  to  you ;  reesrved  for  such 
As  me  and  mine?    Yet  in  the  future  age 
To  you  will  come,  as  comers  to  all  beneath 
The  stars,  destructive  change,     llent,  hurled  and  whelmed 
In  ocean  waters  deep,  the  njlling  wave 
AVill  be  the  mound  that  marks  your  grave.     Alas, 
~\Vho  then  will  come  to  weep  and  shed  the  bitter 
Tear  above  your  tomb,  save  I  from  far, 
From  bright  abodes  where  the  Eternal  are  ? 

'Tis  thus  we  part,  but  part  to  meet  again, 
iiotli  now  aiKl  then.     A  tenant  for  awhile 
Of  this  terrestrial  sj>here,  though  I  may  roam 
.Vfar,  I  still  behold  your  shadows  weird  ; 
And  though  to  eyc's  your  wondrous  forms  no  longer  speak 
With  burning  words  and  eloquence  so  fierce 
That  set  my  s.iul  alirc:  yet  iti  my  heart 
I  hear  amongst  your  pines  theso'.ig'iing  wind  ; 
I  gnyji  upon  your  silvery  lakes,  your  cliff.-i 
And  rocky  ramparts,  icy  peaks,  fir-clad 
Escarpments,  gon^es  deep  and  roaring  waterfalls, 
And  rusliing,  surging  stnjams  in  rocky  beds; 
And  as  I  ga/.e  nu'lodious  voices  fill 
Mine  cars,  a  glowing  thrill  darts  through  my  veins. 
Mine  eyes  dilate,  my  heart  with  rapture  swells, 
With  wonted  fire  my  soul's  imbued  again. 
And  holds  communion  with  the  Great  Unseen. 


OVKR  TIIK  PLVrXS    AND  <t\  Till-;   >I()lj\TAI  NS.  249 

Wc  .soon  run  into  the  gniy  li;i/^i'  ^vlli(•h  shut  out  the 
mountains,  ns  woW  as  out  off  everything  from  view  on 
the  Phiiiis,  and  wo  saw  them  no  nioi-c.  The  sun  iiad  a  lurid 
ghire  ;  and  a  jtort'oct  <^-ale  of  hot  wind  blew  from  the  .South. 
Sevci-al  jaelcass  rabbits  loping-  away,  a  fewanteloj^es  scud- 
diiii^  off  over  the  Plains,  and  the  killin<^of  a  calf  belontrin^ 
to  herdei's  who  had  not  precaution  to  clear  tlie  track  of  their 
Ktoek  in  time,  were  the  only  incidentsthat  diversified  the  trip 
to  Denver,  where  we  arrived  at  three  o'clock.  -lvumnia<;- 
iiii^  tlii"ouu;!i  the  contents  of  a  news  depot,  we  Unind  some 
stray  eopies  of  different  dates  of  the  Democrat  and  Jtepub- 
lican,  whieh  to<^other  posted  us  both  as  to  news  at  homo 
and  the  world  abroad  that  occurred  while  we  w(M"e  buried 
in  the^reeesses  of  the  )iiountains.  With  these  avo  whiled 
away  the  time  until  half-past  nine,  when  the  eastward- 
bound  train  lelt.  We  were  soon  ensconced  in  the  com- 
fortable berths  of  Pullman's  palace  sleeping  cars,  and  ob- 
livious to  ever3"thing  passinj^  around  us.  Jiut  on  we  sped 
in  charge  of  the  fiery  steed,  and  d;iy  met  us  at  Kit  Carson,, 
near  the  eastern  limits  of  Colorado. 


250  OVEtt    THK  PLAINS  ANl)  OS  THE  MOUNTAINS. 


CIIAI'TEU  XX. 

At  Kit  CarHOn  there  hud  been  rains  ^vitiurl  a  few  days, 
and  vegetation  looked  fresh  iind  thrifty.  At  Arapahoe 
(pronounced  Ah-mp-a-lio )  thirty-five  miles  east,  it  had 
rained  heavily,  as  the  hullUlo  wallows  on  the  Plains  and 
♦'xcavations  along  the  railroad  were  yet  filled  to  overflow- 
ing with  water.  At  Pond  Creek,  at  an  elevation  of  over 
4000  feet,  the  industrial  agent,  II.  8.  Elliott,  of  the  Kansas 
Pacific  railroa'l,  lias  one  of  his  experimental  stations,  at 
which  were  sown  wheat,  rye,  barley  and  corn,  all  of  which 
looked  7*emarkably  vigorous  and  thrifty.  The  barley  and 
r\'e  were  just  coloring  and  would  l)e  rijic  in  ten  days* 
There  was  also  a  nu.rsery  of  various  species  of  deciduous 
trees  grown  from  seed  the  present  fiCJison,  which  were  very 
flourishing,  and  the  brilliant  groen  of  their  lcave^s  con- 
trasted beautit'ully  with  the  black  moist  soil  on  which  tliey 
stood. 

Al  Wallace,  a  meal  sUttion,  where  we  took  breakfast,  we 
met  ilr.  Elliott,  \\  lio  cxprcsscMl  himself  sanguine  of  the 
triumphant  success  of  liis  experiment.  So  far  as  we  could 
judge  there  appeared  nothing  to  prevent  th(^  realization  of 
his  fondest  ho]»cs,  nami'ly  :  'Diat  of  abolishing  the  "  (Jreat 
American  Desert." 

Off  again,  we  successively  passed  Sheridan,  (Jopher, 
Monument,  Carlylc,  (jrinnell,  liuftalo,  Ooyot*^,  Park's  Fort, 
Ogallah,  ete.,  all  stati(m.s  from  ten  to  fil'tecn  miles  apart, 
consisting  generally  only  of  the  station  house  and  tene- 
ments of  th<!  railroad  employes.  These  mostly  are  of 
tho>,e  subterranean  dwcfllings  already  mentioned,  or  cabins, 
though  occasionall}'  there  ar«!  a  few  neat  and  comfortable 
cottages.     The  whole  hori7,on  otherwise  encloses  an  ex- 


0V^:R   THK  PL.1IN.S  AND  ON  THR  MOUNTAINS.  251 

panse  of  treeless,  .shruble.ss  plain,  covered  -with  the  whort, 
velvety  buffalo  grass.  The  only  thing  that  gives  variety 
Is  the  old  buffalo  trails,  leading  straight  as  the  flight  of  an 
arrow  north  and  south  over  the  Plains,  which  can  be  fol- 
lowed with  the  eye,  as  far  as  sight  can  reach,  by  the  deeper 
color  and  richer  green  of  the  butTalo  grass.  At  short 
intervals  we  passed  prairie  dog  villages,  and,  aa  we  had 
nothing  else  to  do,  we  watched,  for  amusement,  their 
antics  when  alarmed  by  the  approach! iilc  tniin.  The  first 
thing  was  for  each  member  of  the  iamily  to  i-un  home  on 
the  approa(!h  of  the  train,  then  take  a  jKsep  for  an  instant, 
when  up  would. fly  heels  and  tails,  and  they  were  out  of 
sight.  The  old  one  of  every  hillock,  whom  Ave  took  to  be 
the  paterfainilias,  generally  faced  about  when  he  got  to  the 
liole,  and  set  himself  up  straight  to  look  at  and  study  the 
monster  that  creates  such  alarm  and  consternation  in  the 
village  whenever  he  passes.  AYhcn  sitting  up  straight,  in 
color,  size  and  position  lie  looks  like  a  ten-j)!n  set  on  top 
of  tlu'.  hillock. 

Well,  since  there  is  so  much  uniibrniily  and  sameness  in 
the  landscape  of  these  Plains,  the  variety  of  objects  is  lim- 
ited and  their  discussion  soon  exhausted.  P'or  want  of 
something  else,  let  us  while  away  time  by  talking  of  this 
our  unjustly  stigmatised  little  friend,  the  Prairie  Dog.  A 
welcome  friend  he  always  is,  for  he  relieves  us  of  ennui, 
and  breaks  up  the  wearisomencss  and  dull  monotony  of 
these  wide  expansive  and  treeless  Plains.  For  this  I'eason 
he  possesses,  aside  from  his  novelty,  a  permanent  and 
abiding  interest  to  all  traversing  this  part  of  the  Conti- 
nent. Ho  was  discovered  by  Lewis  and  Clarke,  in  their 
ever  memorable  expedition  across  the  Continent  to  the 
Pacilic,  in  1804, '05  and  'OB,  and  des(;ribed  for  the  first 
time  in  their  Journal.  Thev  called  him  the  Prairie  Doer, 
not  because  he  is  any  way,  even  remotely,  allied  to  the 
dog,  or  resembles  him  in  nature  and  habits,  but  simply 
because  he  sounds  his  alarm  not(^,  "  chip-ip-ip,"  so  rapidly 
.and  shrilly  as  to  have  some  resemblance  to  the  yelping  of 


252  OVER  THE  PLAIN'S    AND  ON  TIIK  MOUNTAINS. 

;t  pwp.  Bill  then,  ovorybody  talks  of  the  liarkiiig  of  a 
S(iuirrol,  yet  iiultody  thinks  it  a  tsullicieiit  leason  tor  calling' 
it  a  do;;.  AVhv  then  should  tlu'  one  be  libelled,  by  beina: 
called  a  do-j;,  tor  velniii<f,  and  not  the  other  for  barkinir? 
Eacli  yelp  be  gives,  when  be  sounds  the  alai'in  of  danger. 
is  accompanied  l»y  a  twitching  of  the  tail,  similar  to 
a  sipiirrel  when  bark'ing. 

Well,  it'  we  are  nm    to   call    him   tin'    Prairie  Dog,  what 
are  we   to    call    him''     Sure   enough,    what'/     A  (piestion 
well  and  i)ointedIy  )>ui.      ("nfortunately  he  has  been  many 
times  christened,  jjut  the;  names  have   not  stuck  widl,  ex- 
cept the  vulgar  one  given  him  by  his  discoverei's. 

The  Indians  called  him  lVi.'<htonwish ;  and  he  isso  called 
in  the  desc)'iption  given  of  him  in  the  Journal  of  Pike's 
Expedition  to  the  Mountains  in  1S06.  (luthrie,  in  1815,. 
proposeil  to  call  liim  Ardomys  JAidovicianus.  Literally,. 
Arctomys  means  7?frtr//iO?/.sv',  or  Bear-rat.  It  is  the  gen- 
eric name  given  to  the  ^larmot  family;  one  species  of 
which,  the  Arctomys  Jfoiia.r  is  familiarly  known  as  the 
wood-chuck  or  ground-hog.  Ludovicianus  c(.)mes  from 
Ludacicus,  the  Latin  for  Lewis.  The  name  proposed  by 
(ruthrie,  therefore,  Avhen  ti-anslated  would  be,  Lewis' 
Marmot.  The  name  is  not  only  inappro})riate,  for  the 
Prairie  Dog  is  not  a  tnarmot,  but  the  name,  Lewis'  Marmot^, 
was  already  appropriated  to  ajiother  animal  and  a  fnio 
marmot,  the  Arctomys.  Lnrisii.  .  Pi-of.  Say,  who  accom- 
panied (.'ol.  Long's  10xj)edition  to  the  ]iocky  .Mountains, 
in  1><20,  describes  him  under  the  name  ^jroposed  by  Prof 
Gutlu-ic. 

Audubon  ]iro]>osed  to  call  him  iSpermopfiilu.-^  Ludovicia- 
nufi,  because  it  seemt-d  to  him  that  he  was  nearer  allied  tO' 
the  spermophiies  than  to  the  marinof.  lie  is,  lioweverr 
less  litlie  and  less  active  than  thc^  sj)ci-nio])hiles,  and  not 
so  short  an<l  clumsy  as  tlu^  marmot.  In  lact.  in  I'orm  and 
habits,  lie  is  intermediate  between  the  two.  Wai'tlen  pro- 
yjosed  U)  call  liim  Arrtomys  Missourienais.  Otlu^rs  have 
jtrojtosed   the  genei-ic  name  Sciuruf,  that  is,  squii-rel.  for- 


OVER   THE  PLAINS  AND  ON  TIIK  MoKNTAINa.  253 

him.  All  I  l»n(  look  :it  his  tail  '.  Yes,  look  ;it  it.  Sria,  a 
Hlitifluw,  -inil  oura,  u  tail.  J)()  you  call  him  witli  that 
.stumpy,  Hfragglin:f  liairod  vcrtohrul  a])))(>n(lai;-e,  ati  animal 
that  can  t^lcoj)  in  the  .shadow  of  liin  tail  '/  r>ah  !  Sciuru.s 
indeed  I  Why  all  Squirrcldum  foel.s  insulted  hy  the  propo- 
nition  !  But  recent  zoologists  liave  called  him  Cynomys 
Zudovidanu'<.  Cynomys  literally  Tiieans  Dog-mouse,  or 
Do""-rat.  llencc^  it  seems  that  Hcientilie  men  arc  not  in 
accord  as  to  what  he  actually  is,  nor  as  to  what  he  shall  be 
mimed,  except  the  spccitic  name  of  his  tirst  <le.scriher, 
Lewis. 

The  common  names  proposed  lor  him  have  not  shared 
a  much  better  fate  than  the  scientific,  always  excepting 
that  given  him  by  Lewis,  Those  who  have  not  fancied 
the  latter,  have  proposed  to  call  him  the  Prairie  Marmot 
8(piirrel.  The  French  Canadians,  trapping  in  the  Moun- 
tains, call  him  "ie  petit  chien,"  the  little  dog.  But,  not- 
withstanding, the  obviou.s  impropriety  of  the  term  first 
applied  to  him,  he  is  now  geru^rally  called  and  Icnown  by 
it;  namely,  the  Prairie  Dog;  and  he  ^^•ill  bear  it  till  hi.s 
race  becomes  extinct,  by  the  extension  of  settlements  ovn^.r* 
the  vast  Plains  of  which  he  is  luow  the  only  denizen  that 
has  a  fixed  habitation. 

He  is  found  spread  over  the  Plains,  eastward  of  the 
the  liocky  ^fountains,  for  five  hundred  miles,  and  from 
the  Missouri  to  south  of  the  Bed  Biver  in  AVestern  Texas. 
They  are  always  found  in  communities;  sometimes  num- 
bering hundreds  of  families  living  logolher.  Their  habi- 
tations are  called  "*' dog-towns,"  or  '-jirairie  dog  villages." 
It  is  said  the  burrows  are  connected  by  subterranean 
galleries.  Old  )'angers  of  the  Plains,  among.st  other 
strange  stories,  say  the  towns  are  intersected  by  streets, 
and  that  the  streets  are  kept  scrupulously  neat  and  clean. 
These  streets  mu.st  be  underground,  as  above  ground  I 
l)ut  rarely  saw  even  evidences  of  a  regular  beaten  path. 

The  female  has  ten  mammae,  from  whence  it  is  inferable 
that  they  are  very  prolific. 


254  OVER    THE  PLAINS  AND  ON  THE  MOUNTAINS. 

Any  one  of  them  seeing;  the  approach  of  danger,  inimo- 
diately  sctuiiper.s  oft'  to  his  burrow  xittcrin<i;  that  peculiar 
cry  which  Jias  been  iancil'ully  compared  to  the  yelpincr  of 
a  puppy.  At  tlie  tirat  cry  of  dangler  from  the  outskirts  of 
tho  town,  ihc  whole  community  takes  it  up,  every  one 
makini;  tor  liis  own  hole.  A  thousand  guinea  fowls, 
alarmed  by  a  hawk,  could  not  nialvc  moi'e  racket  than  tho 
denizens  of  a  dog-town  on  sucli  an  occasion.  Arrived,  at 
home,  without  sto))ping  to  see  whether  the  danger  is  real 
or  imaginary,  all  pluugi*  into  their  holes  by  a  kind  of  lu- 
dicrous summersault,  excepting  some  old  quidnunc  who 
has  an  aversion  of  being  humbugged  and  then  laughed  at 
for  being  so  easily  sold  after  all  his  pretentions  to  superior 
•wisdom.  Having  arrived  at  his  hole,  he  sits  himself  up 
perpendicularly  on  his  hind  legs,  and  takes  a  cool  survey 
of  the  vicinage  to  satisfy  himself  whether  there  was  any 
c^use  for  all  this  commotion,  or  whether  it  was  a  mere 
hoax  played  oft'  by  some  wag  of  the  village.  I  have,  on 
many  occasions,  seen  them  rise  on  their  hind  feet  to  have 
the  better  view.  If  there  is  real  danger,  he  caches  in  a, 
twinkle  ;  but  if  the  alarm  wjus  ialse,  he  runs  to  a  neighbor,, 
apparently  exchanges  a  few  words  Avilli  him,  and  then 
runs  back  to  his  own  burrow,  giving  a  shrill  whistle. 
Soon  a  head  is  seen  cautiously  peering  out  of  each  burrow, 
and  when  satisfied  that  there  either  was  no  danger,  or 
that  it  is  over,  they  venture  out  and  set  up  a  chipping  un- 
til the  whole  village  joins  inthe  concert.  That  concluded 
they  attend  to  pleasure  or  business  as  though  nothing  had 
Lapi)encd. 

The  young  colored  man  who  had  charge  of  our  sleeping 
car,  and  who,  by  the  way,  was  a  model  for  politeness  and 
iioncst^',  and  most  sedulous  in  his  attentions  to  our  welfare 
and  comAjrt,  seemed  to  have  taken  a  great  interest  in 
these  little  fellows,  and  to  have  studied  their  character  and 
habits  well.  liesides  he  was  well  posted  in  all  tho  storioe 
told  of  them  by  the  old  rangers  of  tho  Plains. 

Ho  told  me  many  curious  anecdotes  about  them,  which 


OVKR   THE  PLAINS  AND  ON  THE  MOUNTAINS.  255 

cannot  bo  ivpeatcl  hero  without  hccominc^  tedious. 
Whilst  st^iyin^jj  at  Kills  ono  day  tlu>  idea  Hti-uck  liim  of 
going  out  on  iho  Plains  and  seeing  the  dogs  at  home,  and 
ascertaining  what  kind  of  a  life  they  led. 

Creeping  as  near  to  a  villago  as  possible  Avithout  being 
discovered  by  them,  or  of  alarming  iheni,  from  his  favor- 
able position  lu>  (;ould  overlook  the  entire  plot  of  the 
town,  and  sueh  a  frolicsome,  Avild  and  madcaji  set  of  fel- 
lows, lio  had  never  seen  beiore.  The  youngcn"  ones  were 
rompingj'rolling,  tumbling  and  ]tlaying  like  so  many  kit- 
tens, whilst  the  older  ones  were  running  about  saluting 
each  other  and  chatting  in  the  greatest  glee.  Every  ono 
was  constiintly  on  the  move,  except  a  big  old  fellow  who 
sat  very  still'  and  stately  on  the  hillock  around  his  burrow, 
never  moving.  Evidently  ho  was  the  "big  dog"  of  the 
town,  perhaps,  its  Mayor,  and  could  not  unbend  his  dignity 
enough  to  take  part  in  the  sports  and  amusements  of  the 
village.  Every  dog  in  the  town  Avould  run  up  to  him  and 
have  a  short  chat  with  him  and  then  scamper  away ;  but 
he  felt  too  much  the  cares  of  State,  or  his  own  importance 
to  relax  ono  moment  from  his  gravity. 

From  observing  their  habits  and  studying  their  charac- 
ter, the  young  man  has  become  fully  persuaded  that  to 
avoid  disordei',  each  village  is  a  municipality  consisting  of 
a  regillarly  organized  government;  and  that  this  grave 
old  chap  is  at  the  head  of  it.  lie  also  averred  that  in 
some  villages  he  had  observed  lluit  the  Jackass  llabbit 
was  the  Potentate.  lie  reasoned  in  this  way;  that  if  tho 
race  of  big  dogs  through  dissipation  became  degenerato 
or  extinct,  then  if  the  villago  had  no  dog  largo  enough  to 
fill  the  bill,  they  elected  a  .Tackass  Kabbit;  because  tho 
firet  qualification  for  chief  of  a  dog-toAvn  is,  altitudinal 
dimensions,  so  that  they  will  have  to  look  up  to  him.  If 
that  is  80,  there  should  be  no  hesitation  to  admit  that  they 
arc  a  Avise  race.  Man,  himself,  could  go  and  learn  lessons 
of  wisdom  in  politics  from  them;  for  the  Ilujnan  raco 
have  in  no  case,  excepting  that  of  Saul,  selected  their  head 


"256  OVER   THE  PLAINS  AND   ON   THE   MOUNTAINS. 

man  for  qualifii-ations  that  •would  constrain  them  to  louk 
up  to  liini,  cither  physically,  morally  or  intoilectually. 
However,  inono  respect  they  copy  roinotelythe  precedent 
set  by  the  Pi-airie  Dogj  they  generally  take  the  animal, 
7ni}uis  the  rabbit. 

I  Biiw,  myself,  a  Jackass  Riibbit,  of  the  largest  size,  sit- 
ting on  the  highest  hillock  of  the  town  looking  as  grave 
and  dignified  as  any  J.ord  Mayor,  and  surrounded  by  the 
dogs,  but  Avhether  ho  was  lord  paramount  and  was  there 
officially  to  receive  us  and  tender  us  the  hospitalities  of 
the  town  I  cannot  say,  as  we  very  unceremoniously 
j)assed  l<v  without  stopping  to  ascertain,  liiit  there  he  was 
■Kitting  nj)  straight  and  immovable,  although  the  train 
passed  within  fifty  yai'ds  of  him. 

The  young  man  naid,  when  a  dog-town  is  governed  by 
a  rabbit,  they  show  as  much  respect  and  deference  to  him 
as  if  he  locre  a  dog.    Just  as  we  do,  said  I,  to  our  Jack. 

This  called  forth  another  argument  from  the  young  man, 
to  this  effect :  *'  I  see  you  don't  believe  it;  yet  you  believe 
that  a  beehive  is  governed  by  a  queen.  Now  liom  what 
you  have  seen,  to  which  would  you  assign  the  greater  in- 
telligence, to  the  bee  or  to  the  Prairie  Dog"'  As  you  must 
to  the  lattei-;  which  then  is  tlie  greater  strain  on  human 
credulity,  to  believe  that  law  reigns  in  the  beehive  or  in 
the  dog-town  'i "  Continuing,  he  said,  *'  1  tell  you  these  little 
fellows  are  almost  human.  \ou  can't  find  an  old  ranger 
of  the  Plains  that  will  kill  one  of  tliem,  unless  forced  to 
it  by  hunger,  though  their  meat  is  tender,  juicy  and  de- 
iicious.  The  tenderness  and  affection  they  show  to  each 
other,  has  touched  the  feelings  of  these  exteriorly  rough 
and  seeming]}-  hardened  men.  You  kill  or  maim  one,  and 
instantly  the  tenants  of  the  burrows  sally  forth,  regardless 
ol  danger,  and  carry  him  home.  The  old  rangers  say 
that  this  shows  more  than  human  affection,  and  that  they 
will  not,  except  in  case  of  necessity,  be  instrumental  in 
striking  down  with  death  the  loved  ones  of  such  a  house- 
hold and  fill  it  with  sorrow  and  grief." 


OVER  THE/PLAINS  AND  ON  THE  MOUNTAINS.  257 

I  believe  Leekey  mentions  a  general  belief  that  tlio 
elephant  is  a  religious  being  in  his  native  forests;  and 
tliat  it  is  tlioir  custom  once  a  month,  on  the  night  of  the 
full  moon,  to  assemble  on  the  banks  of  a  river  in  South 
Africa  for  general  worship.  The  Prairie  Bog  has  a  simi- 
lar custom.  Oil  a  suinnier  evening,  they  have  either  ves- 
pers or  else  jirayers  after  their  fashion ;  and  on  the  night 
of  the  full  moon  these  services  are  continued  far  into  the 
night  and  with  unusual  clamor. 

It  has  not  been  settled  what  office  the  burrowing  owl 
holds  in  the  municipality.  Some  think  it  is  that  ot  scav- 
enger or  doctor ;  and  others  say  it  is  that  of  fool-catcher, 
ridding  the  community  of  pestiferous  members.  Some 
a,gain  are  satisfied  his  sole  occupation  is  that  of  snake- 
killer.  If  the  latter,  then  he,  like  our  street  cleaner,  is 
evidentl}'  very  remiss  in  his  duty.  All,  however,  are 
.agreed  that  the  rattle-snake  is  an  unwelcome  intruder,  a 
loafer  who  insinuates  himself  where  he  is  not  wanted,  a 
regular  nuisance  that  has  to  be  tolerated  or  worse  would 
ensue. 

The  following  are  the  dimensions  of  the  full  grown 
Prairie  Dog : 

From  the  tip  of  the  nose  to  the  root  of  the  tail  13 
inches;  length  of  vertebrae  of  tail  2  5-8  inches;  length 
of  tail  to  tips  of  hair  3  1-8  inches;  width  between  the 
eyes  1  1-2  inches. 

As  the  body  of  our  "Western  fox-squirrel  is  but  12 
inches;  and  that  of  the  Eastern  14  inches,  it  will  be  seen, 
that  the  Prairie  Dog  is  intermediate  in  size.  His  color 
resembles  that  of  the  fox-squirrel,  but  is  more  clayish- 
yellow.  On  the  Plains  and  North,  on  the  Upper  Missouri, 
he  hibernates.  According  to  Lieut.  Abert,  on  the  frontier 
of  Texas  he  does  not  go  into  winter  quarters. 

After  the  Prairie  Bog,  the  novelty  of  the  snow  fence 

attracts  attention.     The  snow  fence  is  placed   north   or 

northwest  of  a  deep  cut  some  fifty  3'ards  distant.     Imagine 

.a  plank  fence  some  seven   feet  high,  with  a  support  in- 

17 


258  OVER   THE  PLAINS  AND  OS  THE  MOUNTAINS. 

clinod  at  an  angle  of  forty-tivo  degrees,  and  you  "will  have 
a  tolerably  correct  idea  of  the  appearance  of  the  snow 
fence.  The  Avind  in  striking  it  '' becomes  demoralized" 
and  drops  its  burthen  of  snow,  instead  of  carrying  it  for- 
ward and,  as  with  vxaJice  prepense,  blocking  up  the  road  in 
the  cut. 

The  buffiilo  trails  of  former  years  also  present  novel 
features.  They  lead  over  the  Plains  northward  as  far  as 
sight  c^n  penetrate,  perfectly  straight.  The  first  impres- 
sion is  that  a  furrow  had  been  made  by  the  plow ;  and  as 
the  3'oung  grass  in  them  is  of  a  more  vigorous  growth 
than  that  on  the  Plains,  they  appear  like  a  luirrow  band 
of  deep  green  stretched  over  the  prairie. 

We  saw  a  number  of  jackass  rabbits  and  a  few  antelopes, 
which  fled  at  our  approach.  A  short  distance  east  of 
Ogallah  there  was  an  immense  patch  of  the  beautiful 
Gaillardia  picta,  the  first  wo  had  seen  on  our  return.  It 
was  a  real  treat  to  look  at  their  lai'ge  purple  blooms, 
fringed  with  yellow,  and  it  was  a  relief  to  the  eye  to  see 
something  else  than  the  greenish  gray  buffalo  grass  and 
dull  gray  Patagonian  plaintain. 

A  mile  west  of  Ellis  there  was  a  large  area  of  prairie 
freshly  broken.  A  stream  of  some  size  from  the  north. 
here  empties  into  the  Smoky  Hill  Fork.  Ellis  is  303 
miles  west  of  the  State  line,  that  is  581  miles  west  of  St. 
Louis. 

We  here  entered  into  a  sirocco  that  blew  a  perfect  gale 
from  the  south.  It  was  so  hot  that  on  3'our  hands  and 
cheeks  it  produced  a  sensation  like  that  of  a  sunbeam,  and 
the  brass,  iron  and  wood  of  the  seats  felt  hot  to  the  touch. 
Our  conductor  told  us  that  they  blew  on  an  average  once, 
and  sometimes  twice  a  week,  from  the  middle  of  June  to 
the  first  of  September;  that  they  were  from  ten  to  fifty 
miles  wide ;  and  were  invariably  the  precursor  of  a  storm. 
either  there  or  further  down  on  the  Plains.  In  January, 
February  and  during  the  early  part  of  March,  similar  cold 
blasts,  called  by  the  railroad  men,  "Nebraska  zephyrs," 


OVER   THE  PLAINS  AND  ON  THE  MOUNTAINS.  259 

sweep  south.     As   1113'  infbnnuiit   said,   "tlioy    are    keen 
enough  to  shave  off  the  hiiir  of  11  buffalo.'' 

A  few  miles  east  of  Hayes  wc  came  upon  ten  liuffalo. 
They  first  started  off  in  a  trot,  but  as  wo  neared  them,  up 
went  their  tails  and  down  their  heads  and  they  galloped 
away  as  far  as  avo  saw  them  with  a  speed  tnily  sur- 
prising. The  conductor  remarked,  avo  will  probably 
soon  see  a  large  drove.  Bcfiire  we  lost  sight  of  the  first 
we  came  upon  twelve  more,  who  also  fied  at  ovir  approach 
But  a  large  drove;  of  hundreds  soon  came  in  sight;  in  fact, 
the  Plains  as  far  as  wo  could  see  were  covered  with  them. 
The  nearest  being  about  two-thirds  of  a  mile  off,  they 
kept  grazing  and  paid  no  attention  to  us. 

At  Fossil,  and  some  distance  both  east  and  west,  there 
is  a  valuable  white  limestone  for  building  purposes.  It  is 
so  soft  when  "  green  "  as  to  be  more  easily  cut  into  blocks 
than  wood;  yet  when  thoroughly  dry  it  becomes  so  hard 
and  firm  that  it  is  said  it  Avill  bear  the  weight  of  the 
largest  structures. 

At  Wilson's  creek,  1586  feet  above  tide  and  522  miles 
west  of  St.  Louis,  the  winter  Avheat  sown  late  in  Xovem- 
ber  at  the  experimental  station  was  nearly  ripe.  The 
stand  was  excellent,  hight  fine  and  heads  large  and  well 
filled,  with  no  signs  of  rust  on  the  blade.  Its  yield  per 
acre  must  fully  equal  the  average  of  wheat  in  Missouri 
and  Illinois.  The  rj^-e  was  unusually  good  and  fully  ripe. 
Corn  and  sorghum  were  dark  green  and  very  thrifty; 
vegetables,  sucii  as  peas,  beans,  potatoes,  tomatoes,  melons, 
etc.,  ver}''  promising.  The  nursery  seedlings  of  deciduous 
trees  looked  so  vigorous  and  thrifty  that  there  can  be  no 
doubt  that  timber  can  be  grown  on  the  Plains.  It  was 
yet  too  soon  to  judge  whether  evergreens,  such  as  pines 
and  spruce,  would  succeed,  though  so  far  they  appear  to 
do  well.  The  European  larch  had  also  been  planted  for 
trial,  but  like  the  evergreens,  it  takes  a  whole  season  to 
determine  whether  it  will  succeed. 

In  the  vicinity  of  Wilson's  some  immigrants,  who  had 


260  OVER    THE  PLAINS  AND  ON  THE  MOUNTAINS. 

■pushed  west  thus  fur  in  advance  of  the  scttlenicnts,  had 
broken  up  some  considerable  prairie.  At  Ellswortli  the 
advancing  wave  of  settlement  rollina:  westward  meets 
you.  Hero  is  a  snu;jj  little  village  of  perhaps  seventy 
houses,  and  considerable  land  in  cultivation.  In  all  di- 
rections, on  the  Plains,  the  cabins  of  those  making  home- 
steads or  pre-emption  claims  could  be  seen,  generally  sur- 
rounded by  a  new  breaking  of  tlio  ])rairie  sod.  The  soil 
is  black  and  very  friable,  and  judging  from  the  growing 
croi)S,  fertile  and  productive.  I  cannot  conceive  how  there 
can  be  a  lovelier  rustic  landscape  than  this  must  become, 
when  entirely  subdued  and  under  cultivation. 

At  Brookville,  twenty-three  miles  east  of  Ellsworth,  we 
met  and  exchanged  civilities  with  Messrs.  Adolphus  Meier, 
C  S.  Greeley,  and  Wni.  ^L  McPherson,  officers  of  the 
road,  on  a  tour  of  inspection.  Erookville,  just  200  miles 
west  of  the  .State  line,  (483  miles  from  St.  Louis,)  is  a 
flourishing  town  for  its  age.  Its  elevation  is  1250  feet 
aitove  tide-Avatcr,  and  is  situated  on  a  rolling  grassy  and 
rich  prairie,  which  is  fast  settling  up.  The  machine  shops 
of  the  Kansas  Pacific  railroad  are  located  here,  which 
have  given  an  impulse  to  its  growth  and  settlement. 

it  was  quite  dark  when  we  left  Salina,  where  we  stop- 
ped for  8U])per.  Before  retiring,  and  while  our  bertha 
were  prej)aring,  I  went  on  the  rear  platform  of  the  sleep- 
ing car.  I  observed  that  there  was  a  dark  bank  of  clouds 
lying  along  the  whole  western  liorizon,  in  which  there 
was  an  incessant  play  of  vivid  lightning.  I  recalled  the 
prediction  of  our  conductor  as  forecast  from  the  sirocco. 
This  ])hcnomenon  ought  to  be  observed  and  investigated 
by  the  signal  office,  as  it  may  involve  and  unfold  an  im- 
j)Ortarit  law  of  meteorology. 

It  will  be  observed  from  the  distances  made  that  the 
rate  of  tlie  trains  on  this  road  is  only  twenty  miles  an 
hour.  Yet,  on  the  return  trip,  I  found  we  liad  to  stop 
once  an  hour,  and  oftencr,  to  cool  the  car  boxes  by  pour- 
ing water  on  them  to  prevent  them  from  taking  fire.     In 


OVER    TIIK  PLAINS  AND  ON  THE  MOUUTAINS.  261 

a  conversation  with  those  having  charge  of  the  train,  they 
told  me  the  difficulty  to  a  great  extent  was  owing  to  the 
meteorologic  condition  of  the  weather;  and  that  they 
were  much  more  troubled  with  heated  boxes  before,  du- 
ring and  after  these  Biroccos  than  at  any  other  time;  and 
that  they  could  almost  unerringly  foretel  a  sirocco,  by  ob- 
Berving  the  temperatui'e  of  their  boxes.  If  this  is  so,  it 
will  suggest  the  existence  of  a  new  physical  law,  in  the 
transformation  of  the  cosmicul  l(;i-ces,  a  law  more  than 
suspected  from  oUier  pliysical  facts. 

The  storm  overtook  us  at  Manhattan  and  it  poured  down 
till  near  daylight.  We  found  water  standing  everywhere, 
when  day  met  us  at  Lenape,  22  miles  beyond  the  State 
line.  The  creeks  were  booming,  and  the  culverts  at  many 
points  of  the  road  were  overtaxed  and  the  water  threat- 
ening to  break  over  the  road.  On  the  Missouri  Pacific, 
beyond  Pleasant  Hill,  Ave  found  a  break,  which  however 
had  nearly  been  repaired  when  we  got  there,  and  the  Blue 
near  by  wa.s  up  to  within  a  few  inches  of  the  bridge;  and 
many  cornfields  were  under  water. 

The  rain  had  extended  to  some  ten  miles  below  Jeffer- 
son City,  when  all  traces  of  it  vanished,  though  a  violent 
wind-storm  swept  over  all  Eastern  Missouri  and  Illinois. 
Around  Sedalia,  and  especially  west  of  it,  is  a  landscape 
whose  conformation  and  natural  features  at  once  remind 
you  of  the  lovely  plains  of  Ilansas.  But  there  is  this  dif- 
ference ;  every  foot  of  this  plain  is  under  cultivation,  while 
in  Kansas  they  are  yet  practically  in  a  state  of  nature.  I 
could,  therefore,  not  refrain  from  recalling  the  emotions 
of  admiration  and  enthusiasm  I  felt  on  first  beholding  the 
wide  expanse  and  beauty  of  the  undulating  plains  in  Kan- 
sas. In  his  course  around  the  earth,  the  sun  does  not  look 
xipon  a  lovlier  scene  than  they.  Yet  here  I  could  see  what 
mighty  changes  time  and  art  will  effect  in  them.  On 
every  knoll  stands  the  ample  mansion  of  the  farmer,  sui*- 
rounded  by  shade  trees,  orchard  and  vineyards.  Here  are 
hedges  stretching  far  away  over  the  plain  enclosing  fields 


262  OVER   THE  PLAINS  AND  ON  THE  MOUNTAINS.  . 

of  "wheat,  rvo  ami  barley  filled  Avith  shocks  or  already 
garnered:  and  there  the  dark  gi'een  corn,  the  meadow  and 
the  oat  field  cover  the  vast  ])laiu  as  far  as  the  eye  can 
reach;  antl  then  yonder  again  are  pastures  filled  with 
herds  and  flocks,  a  pastoral  scene  that  would  tax  tlie  pow- 
ers of  a  Homer  or  Yirgil  to  describe. 

Before  another  score  of  years  are  numbered  with  the 
past,  this  picture  will  have  been  reproduced  on  a  more 
western  landscape,  on  the  more  ample  plains  of  Kansas, 
improved  and  embellished  by  intelligent  industry,  judi- 
cious care  and  refined  taste,  in  proportion  to  the  vastness 
of  the  tlieater  on  which  it  is  done. 

After  having  spent  days  and  weeks  upon  the  treeless 
and  even  shrubless  plains  of  Kansas  and  Colorado,  it  was 
quite  an  agreeable  change  and  a  welcome  relief  on  enter- 
ing ^Missouri  to  see  again  the  hills  and  valle^-s  covered 
with  forests,  fields  bordered  by  growing  timber,  and  the 
expansive  cultivated  plain  interspersed  with  pleasant 
groves. 

At  8  o'clock  i\  M.,  June  19th,  we  arrived  ut  home,  just 
forty-six  hours  from  Denver,  distance  923  miles. 


EREATA. 


Page  3t,  Bf^rond  lino,  for  "the  two  brsf.,"  read  "to  the  best." 

Page  o7,  fijurteeiith  lino,  for  "mainly"  read  "namely." 

Piif^e  121,  seventli  linn  from  ])oltoni.  fir  "hiitoria'    read  "l/istorta." 

Pafje  207,  first  lino,  for  "Indian'  blood-thinitynain"    read  Indians  in 

blood. -t  hirst  iness." 
pR:,'e  iiO-i,     fiilocuth    line    from   tlie   bottom,    for  "grounded"    read 

'■'grfmped." 
Revoral  minor  typop^apliical  error?  in  mis-spoUincj  o^cajiod  notice 

until  too  lat-T  f^r  correction.     As  the  intellij^entruudor  cua  correct  them, 

it  ifl  not  necessary  to  note  them. 


JISTDEX. 


CHAPTER  I. 

Leaving  St.  Louis  6. — Arrival  at  Kansas  City  9. — Anecdote  9. — 
Reception  at  Atcliij-on  11. — Trip  to  Watcrville  14. — Surroundings  of 
same  15. — General  character  of  landscape  15. — Summary  of  general 
features  of  landscape,  character  and  quality  of  soil  and  sanitary  condi- 
tion of  country  passed  over  17 

**  CHAPTER  11. 

Leavenworth  as  seen  from  Military  Reservation  20. — Railroad  bridge 
across  the  Jlissouri  21. — Leavenworth  as  a  commercial  City  28. — Trip 
to  Lawrence  '24. — Arrival  at  Lawrence  2G. — History  of  Eldridge  House 
26.  ct  seq. 

CHAPTER  HI. 

Trip  southward,29.— Ottawa  30.— Flora  on  route  32.— Eli  Thayer  33. 
— Coal  33. — Lands  34. — Return  to  Lawrence  35. — Early  settlers  and 
character  of  the  people  of  Kansas  36.  et  seq. 

CHAPTER  lY. 

Leaving  for  tlio  ^lountains  37. — Observations  on  wheat  crop  40. — 
New  Flora  41. — River  system  of  Kansas  42. — First  Prairie  dog  village 
44. — ^Experimental  stations  of  Kansas  Pacific  R.  R.  45. — Water  supply 
40. — Horned  frog  and  buffalo  calf  at  Fossil  50. — Insensate  slaughter  of 
buffaloes  50. — Building  stone  51. — Buffalo  grass  51. — Antelopes  and 
buffaloes  52. — Coyete  53. — Night  closes  on  the  Plains  54. 

CHAPTER  V. 

Return  of  day  55. — First  glimpse  of  the  mountains  50. — Arrival  at 
Denver  57. — Early  settlement  of  why  53. — Off  for  Golden  61, — Descrip- 
tion of  61. — Pulpit  Rock  or  Castle  Butte  63. — Flora  found  at  Golden 
64. 

CHAPTER  VI. 

Morning  view  from  Castle  Butte  67. — Chimney  gUxcn  69. — Flora  in 
same  70. — Ascension  of  dominating  peak  71. — View  from  same  72. — 
Exhilarating  effect  of  an  attenuated  atmosphere  75. — Causes  of  same  76. 


#11  INDEX. 

CHAPTER  VII. 

Return  to  Denver  7(). — Route  down  the  Valley  of  the  Platte  78. — 
L.indscapc  around  Evans  and  Greeley  79.— I'^nioii  colony  at  Greeley  80. — 
Plains  between  Greeley  and  Ciieyenne  82. — Fantastic  forms  of  erodid 
rocks  83. — Cheyenne  8-3. — Grazing  in  Wyoming  84. — Return  to  Denver 
and  excursion  around  vicinity  85. — Colorado  strawberries  85. — Excur- 
sion to  Boulder  8C. — Coal  mines  at  Erie  SO. — Road  from  Erie  to  Boul- 
der 87. —  Reception  at  Boulder  88 

CHAPTER  VIII. 

Scenery  around  Boulder  00. — Excursion  up  tlie  Canyon  95. — Flora  in 
same  90. — Grand  scenery  of  9.'"i. — Eagle  Cliff  9'.t. — Rocky  Mountain  shoep 
100.— Castle  Rock  101.— Water  grade  of  Canyon  104. 

CHAPTER  IX. 

Trip  to  Caribou  105. — Upper  valley  of  the  Boulder  105. — Beaver 
106. — New  Flora  107. — First  snow  Held  108. — Mountain  storm  cloud 
108. — Road  up  the  mountain  10s. — Cardinal  109. — First  view  of  Snowy 
Range  109. — Caribou  110. — The  first  snow  bank  111. — Prospect  holes 
and  mining  shafts  111. — Evening  r-ftmblc  over  the  mountain  113. — Peak 
of  the  Snowy  Range  113. — Accoustic  effect  of  attenuated  atmosphere 
114. — Effect  on  breathing  of  animals  115. 

CHAPTER  X. 

Morning  ramble  over  the  mountains  IIG. — Longcrested  Jay  117. — 
Four  striped  ground  squirrel  118. — Talk  with  a  miner  118. — Caribou 
Lode  119. — Magnetic  iron  ore  120.— Orderly  conduct  of  the  miners  122. — 
Grand  Island  122.— Metals  in  the  district  122.— Woods  on  fire  123.— 
Another  view  of  Mountain  sheep  125. — Falls  of  North  Boulder  125.— 
Singular  conduct  of  a  Rocky  Mountain  blue  bird  127. — Return  to  Boul- 
der 128. 

CHAPTER  XI. 

Morning  ramble  129. — .Vpostrophe  to  the  Waters  180. — Photograph 
stones  i:'0. — Explanation  of  them  135. — Visit  to  Marshall's  coal  mines 
on  South  Boulder  134. — Extent  of  coal  134. — Irrigation  135. — Advan- 
tages of  137. — Agricultural  effects  of  130. — Grasshoppers  130. — Excel- 
lence of  flour  138. — Crystali/,ed  soda  incrusting  soil  138. — Premium 
awards  for  field  productions  139. — Extent  of  Arable  land  in  Platte  Valley 
and  affluents  140. — Desirable  grazing  region  140. — Arable  and  grazing- 
land  on  the  Mountains  141. 


INDEX.  m 

CH.VPTEK  XIL 

Colonial  schemes  in  Colorado  143. — Difficulties  suggested  144. — 
Ih-awbaclcs  even  in  mining  towns  145. — Greensborough  colony  147. — 
Col.  Wucsten's  German  Colony  14S. — Mountain  ranches  product  of 
149. — Chicago  Colorado  Colony  149. — Climate  of  Colorado  not  deter- 
minable by  empiric  laws  150. — Sanitary  condition  of  Colorado  152. — 
Par  excellence  tlic  climate  for  invalids  150. — Directions  and  warnings 
to  consumptives  154. 

CHAPTER  Xlir. 

Inevitable  hardships  and  privations  in  forming  new  settlements  156. — 
Where  immigration  in  Colorado  goes  157.— Tlie  mountains  not  a  barren 
waste  157. — Climate  on  lower  Plains  severer  than  at  hase  of  the  moun- 
tains 159. — Proposition  of  irrigating  canal  from  Platte  canyon  eastward 
«ver  the  Plains  ICO. — Advice  to  emigrants  101. 

CHAPTEPv  XIY. 

Different  orders  of  plants  demand  different  kinds  of  food  163. Diffi- 
culty of  koepintr  a  supply  of  plant  food  in  the  soil  164. — How  fertility 
is  spread  165. — Irrigation  in  the  Orient,  etc.,  166. — System  carried  to 
America  167.— Products  of  vegetation  167.— Estimated  amount  of  plant 
food  carried  on  and  deposited  in  the  soil  by  irrigation  168. — The  prob- 
lem of  perfect  manure  solved  169. 

CHAPTEPv  XV. 

Middle  Park  170. — Mecca  for  invalids  170. — Precious  metals  in  171. 

Flexure  of  Snowy  Pvango  enclosing  it  171.— Pertains  to  Pacific  slope 
172. — Elevation  above  tide  172. — Surface  and  vegetation  of  173. — Con- 
templated railroads  through  174.— Agricultural  adaptations  of  174.— 
Grand  Lake  174. — Coal  beds  in  175. — Precious  stones  175.— Sulphur 
springs  176. — Eroded  stone  monuments  176.— Passes  over  the  Range 
leading  into  it  177. — Area  of  three  northern  parks  178. — Upper  basin 
of  the  Arkansas  178.— San  Luis  Park  179.  Lake  Saguache,  singular 
phenomenon  in  179. — Singular  facts  about  harvest  181.— Public  land 
in  San  Luis  Park  182. — Review  of  attractions  and  inducements  to  all 
classes  of  tourists  1 84. 

CHAPTER  XVI. 

Difference  between  views,  vistas  and  sir/hts  stated  187. — Difference 
between  works  of  Xature  and  of  Man  189. — Contract  between  the 
Yosemite  and  Boulder  Canyon  190. — Vistas  and  views  in  the  mountains 
192.— Top  of  Mount  Lincoln  195.— Lakes  197.— The  Divide  197.— Mon- 
ument Creek  193.— Gardens  of  the  Gods  199. 


IV  1SDF.X. 

CHAPTER  xrn. 

nistory  of  Colora'lo  201. — Peoples  Courts  202. — Partj- divisions  when 
the  Rebellion  broke  out  203. — The  Colorado  side  of  the  Sand  Creek 
affair  205. — Indian  insolence  punished  .207. — The  heroes  of  the  Moun- 
uiins  208. — Col.  Pfeifer  20rt. — Ruins  and  their  traditions  211. — Mountain 
Jim  214. — Indian  history  of  21.5. — Advent  of  the  white  man  21G. — Con- 
trast between  civilization  and  barbarism  216. — Cause  of  Indian  troubles 
217. — "Where  the  responsibility  lies  219. 

Cn.\J'TER  XVIIL 

Mining  in  Colorado  221. — Cause  of  early  failures  222. — Disastrous 
experiments  224. — "Who  responsible  for  tliem  223. — Products  of  mines 
22G.— Rusty  gold  227.— Waste  of  stamp-mills  228.— Success  of  smelting 
works  229. — Investments  in  mining  recommended  and  advise  how  to  do 
it  230. — English  capitalists,  their  proceedings  and  opinions  about 
Colorado  231. — Why  formerly  so  many  foilures  232. — Shameless 
swindles  23-5. 

CHAPTER  XIX. 

SWlark  239.--Leaving  for  home,  haze  on  Plains  240. — Denotes  electric 
disturbances  lb. — Produces  the  phenomenon  of  mirage  241. — On  board 
the  care  242. — Last  look  at  tlie  Mountains  Jl>. — Farewell  to  them  248  to 
248. — Arrival  and  departure  from  Denver  249. 

CHAPTER  XX. 

Rains  at  Kit  Carson  in  Eastern  Colorado  2-50. — Pond  Creek  experi- 
mental station  76. — Buffalo  trails  on  Plains  251. — The  Prairie  dog  262 
to  2-56. — Snow  fences  2-50. — Siroccos  in  Rummer  and  "  Nebraska  zeph- 
>-rs"  in  Winter  on  the  Plains  258.— Herds  of  Buffalo  2-59.- Night  storm 
-of  rain  261. — Arrival  at  home  262. 


KANSAS  PACIFIC  R.  R.  CO. 


Our  roatl  rims 


FKOM   KAiVSAS    CITY,    MO., 


To 


DEIVVER,  G3S  MILES. 


ALSO, 


A  Branch  from  Leaven  worth  to  Lawrence,  33  Miles. 

We  have  iilso,  the  Denver  Facilic,  Iroiii  Denver  to  Cheyenne,  106  miles.      Al- 
so the  IJoulder  Valley  Railiouil,  now  completed  to  Krie;  will  be  com- 
pleted to  lioulder  City  this  summer.     We  are  buildinjr  a  road 
IVom  Junction  City,  Kan.sas,   to  Chiy  county,    Kiinsa.s; 
and  a  road  from  Kit  Carson  to  Fort  Lyon",  Color- 
ado.     We  probably  will   build  a   road 
from  Lawrence",  Kansas,  to  Car- 
bondale  coal-tields,  thir- 
ty-two miles,  this 
summer. 


t 


Passengers  leavinj;  .St.  Loui,^  at  8:30  a.  m. ,  will  reach  Kansas  Citv  in  time 
to  take  the  westward  express  leiivinj^at  10:00  p.  m.  :  arrive  at  Bro'okville  at 
9:45  a.  m.  and  Denver  next  morumg  at  7:00.  Time,  46  1-2  hours.  Dis- 
tance, 923  miles. 

PULLMAN'S 
Are  Attached  to  Each  Train. 


Passengers  leaving  St.    Louis  in   tlie  evening  express  train,   will   arrive  at 
Brookville  at  9:00  p.  m.  next  day,  and  have  a  good  night's  rest. 


Rob't  E.  Carr,  President. 

Adolphus  Meier,  V.  President. 

'C.  S.  Greeley,  Treasurer. 

Edmund  S.  Bowen,  Gen'l  Sup't. 


Our  specialties 


AUK 


/"!', 


'i"vm-^-r'<  - 


AND 


EPICURE  BROILERS, 


Either  of  Which  are  Perfectly  Jmlispcnsiible  in  every  Well  Regulated  House- 
hold. 


Unequah  il  in  the  Combinefl  Merits  of 

Ecoiioiuy,   I>iirability,   Convenience,   Cleanliness, 
and  Excellence  of  Operation. 


A  single  Triul  is  all    we   ask,  lieinjr  sati.sfled  that  they  will  not  fail  to  give 

I'l-rfect  .S:iti»l:iCtion. 

SOLD  IJV 

Excelsior  •Jlanu/actHrlUf/  Co* 


61*2  &  <>l  I  .\.  Main  Street,  St.  I^ouis, 

AM)  AM. 
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